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With verizon at least, you have to pay for their tethering service.
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Aug 14, 2011 18:56
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Drove to Reno yesterday since I was bored, turns out it was Hot August Nights so I had to hide my German shame from the thousands of muscle cars roaming the streets. The best place to hide? Top floor of the Circus Circus parking structure.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:06
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Cojawfee posted:With verizon at least, you have to pay for their tethering service. If you have a rooted phone they'll never know - especially when its tethered to another Android device
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Aug 14, 2011 22:49
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I got bored and am going to be installing an alarm/remote start in my e34, so I decided to put together a little install guide deal for anyone else looking to do the same. This is for just about any DEI 2-way system (Viper 5701 and up basically), and could be modified for like anything else. E34 DEI Alarm and Remote Start Install Reference
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Aug 15, 2011 00:32
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Does anyone know if any of the inner connector pieces for e36 door panels are the same between the coupe and the sedan? Obviously the door pockets and the top piece are going to be different, but the tall parts might be the same? Finding cheap coupe driver door panels is impossible. When I got my E36, the driver door was held on with tape. Since the car was cheap, I figured it was something I could fix later. Had I known what a bitch it would be finding a coupe door panel, I might have kept looking. Dammit, why don't people sell the connector pieces separately from the door panel?
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Aug 15, 2011 01:49
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televiper posted:Does anyone know if any of the inner connector pieces for e36 door panels are the same between the coupe and the sedan? Obviously the door pockets and the top piece are going to be different, but the tall parts might be the same? Finding cheap coupe driver door panels is impossible. Use realoem.com or bimmerfans.info or whatever to find out the part number. Then you can put it in to see the applications and see if they are exchangeable. Probably not.
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Aug 15, 2011 05:01
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Lowclock posted:Use realoem.com or bimmerfans.info or whatever to find out the part number. Then you can put it in to see the applications and see if they are exchangeable. Probably not. No parts on Realoem, they call the panel one item, which sucks, because they fall apart as a bunch of different parts.
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Aug 15, 2011 06:01
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I came across this just now and it's like finding buried treasure! Some dealer in Ontario just abandoned a E28 5er and 635csi on his lot, and just moves to Toronto inexplicably. God the things I would do for that 6er  http://www.endrasbmw.com/10/1988-bmw-dealership-left-untouched/
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Aug 15, 2011 08:44
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Yeah that was posted in another thread here. I still don't know about it. Those cars are way too clean to have been sitting untouched since 1988. The tires are still aired up, and there's no puddle of power steering fluid on the ground. Maybe there's some quiet group of cleaning ladies who come and clean and dust every weekend that get paid by some obscure pension and have no idea that nobody has worked there for a long time. E: I guess I noticed that article mentioned something the other one I read didn't article posted:Rumor has it that once or twice a month an individual in a black E28 pulls up and spends some time in the back. Apparently the owner once quoted someone who was interested in the white 6 Series a price of $75,000. That was about five years ago. Adding to the mystery that surrounds this dealership, many have come forward claiming to know the owner, yet none of their stories seem to match up. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 09:13 on Aug 15, 2011 |
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Aug 15, 2011 08:58
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Lowclock posted:Yeah that was posted in another thread here. I still don't know about it. Those cars are way too clean to have been sitting untouched since 1988. The tires are still aired up, and there's no puddle of power steering fluid on the ground. Maybe there's some quiet group of cleaning ladies who come and clean and dust every weekend that get paid by some obscure pension and have no idea that nobody has worked there for a long time. If I was a millionaire I would almost do something like this except you know I'd rather be driving them instead of having them sit around.
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Aug 15, 2011 15:32
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Black88GTA posted:That would be me. Yeah I laughed when they complained that the wiper bottle was empty. If that's the worst thing wrong with the car then they did pretty drat good. I was actually surprised that the Mercedes was also in such good condition (apart from the engine not running of course). Doesn't the 8-series largely use off-the-shelf BMW components, meaning that an owner wouldn't be as likely to have a super-expensive failure? I seem to remember reading that the V12 wasn't much more than two I6's joined at the bottom, and used mostly the same bolt-ons (for instance the coil packs  )
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Aug 15, 2011 16:20
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"hey guyz, EVERYONE SAYS these are huge piles of poo poo, so let's find all the poo poo that surely is broken on ours and rip it apart lol" but all they could find to put in their article were a standard list of old / neglected car problems, with a couple LOL HUGE CELL PHONE AND CD CHANGER jokes thrown in there.
"renowned for bad electrics" yet they couldn't find a single thing wrong with this obviously neglected 20 year old beater they picked up cheap, other than 
OMG THE EXHAUST WAS REPLACED A FEW YEARS AGO! and 
AIEEEEEE EMPTY WASHER FLUID BOTTLE! Nice work guys! 
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Crustashio posted:ZHP owners: How satisfied are you with yours? I drove the one I posted earlier in the thread and loved it. The cloth seats are comfortable, the interior is miles ahead of my E36, transmission is precise yet not notchy at all, and the steering is awesome. I've only had my 2005 ZHP coupe for a little under 2 months but I love it. I'm coming from a '95 Explorer so it's quite the difference. I test drove a local 2007 328ci before I was shopping for ZHPs and I like mine much better. I've never enjoyed driving but since I've gotten this car I sometimes wake up an hour early just to cruise around before work. Also it's nice being the only one in town with one, that I've noticed anyway. I get some odd looks from M3's sometimes.
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Aug 15, 2011 19:05
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Chernobyl Prize posted:I've only had my 2005 ZHP coupe for a little under 2 months but I love it. I'm coming from a '95 Explorer so it's quite the difference. I test drove a local 2007 328ci before I was shopping for ZHPs and I like mine much better. When I bought one a couple years ago... so did my neighbor across the street from me. It still stings a little. His is automatic though. I love mine to death still after 2 years. I was day dreaming earlier this summer about a new car... but there isn't a single car under $25k (used) that I'd want over my ZHP. I wish my motorcycle wasn't so drat practical so that I could have an excuse to daily drive the ZHP. I put less than 6,000 miles per year on it. And if you're buying an e46, the resale ease/value may be worth it alone. I know that when the day comes to sell it I will have no issue. The premium you pay for the ZHP will also largely remain. A standard 10+ year old 330i would be more difficult.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:34
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Crustashio posted:ZHP owners: How satisfied are you with yours? I drove the one I posted earlier in the thread and loved it. The cloth seats are comfortable, the interior is miles ahead of my E36, transmission is precise yet not notchy at all, and the steering is awesome. Extremely satisfied with my car. Its extremely responsive (steering), and it has a slightly better engine than the regular 330i. Occasionally, I dream about getting an M3, only because I am curious whether I'd be able to live with that engine all of the time, but the car is responsive on mountain roads, has the ridiculous steering rack, and is an overall joy to own. I enjoy it more than my father's 330i, which is an automatic 2001 version. Although this past weekend, my friend managed to drive it into a gigantic rock and now it has a scratch on the right bumper  - need advice - my friend has offered to cover any repair costs as a result, but I feel really bad about taking his money. The repair comes out to about $850 (take off bumper, repair the scratches, repaint the bumper, get a new plastic molding) Should I pay 50%? I feel like I'm partially responsible for telling him that you have to push in the transmission to go reverse.
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Aug 16, 2011 02:21
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Here's a question that isn't quite as straightforward as it first seems: How do you guys jack up your E46s? On early (pre-2001) models and on the M3, there is a central jack point at the front of the car, so it isn't much of an issue with those cars. On later non-M3 models, however, there is a stamped, oval-shaped pad in the reinforcement plate instead. Mike Miller (of Roundel and Bimmer Tech Q & A) recommends using that as a jack point, but there are a lot of people who instead say to use two jacks on the forward rocker panel jack points, as its possible you'll crush the pad lifting the car (which I'm not keen on doing). Doing it this way not only requires two jacks, but it also makes placing jack stands a bit of an issue. The rear isn't an issue, obviously; just get underneath and jack up from the axle carrier in front of the diff (and not by the diff itself).
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Aug 16, 2011 02:46
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Shadowhand00 posted:Occasionally, I dream about getting an M3, only because I am curious whether I'd be able to live with that engine all of the time That's one of the great things about the S54. Perfectly docile and streetable below 4K RPM; wails like a banshee and lets forth the gates of hell above 5.5K. Even the fuel consumption is reasonable if you keep your right foot out of it. The only downsides are really the maintenance requirements and cost.
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Aug 16, 2011 06:01
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CornHolio posted:Doesn't the 8-series largely use off-the-shelf BMW components, meaning that an owner wouldn't be as likely to have a super-expensive failure? I seem to remember reading that the V12 wasn't much more than two I6's joined at the bottom, and used mostly the same bolt-ons (for instance the coil packs The E31 shares many mechanical / engine parts with the 5 and 7 series, yes. Not saying that a catastrophic mechanical failure wouldn't be expensive to set right, but it would probably cost roughly the same to repair as if the same thing were to happen on a more common BMW with an identical drivetrain. IOW, there's not too many 8 series specific mechanical bits to worry about. Body / interior trim, on the other hand, can get up there unless you find used parts. You are correct on the V12 configuration. Not sure if serious on the coil packs comment, but just in case - the V12 actually uses 2x old school cap and rotor distributors. The V8 uses individual coil packs per plug, which are currently ~$46/ea for OEM replacements on Autohaus AZ.
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Aug 16, 2011 06:52
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MrChips posted:Here's a question that isn't quite as straightforward as it first seems: I drive the front end onto ramps and jack the rear end up. It's a bitch getting 4 jack stands under my car because the central jack points are so low. The front center on mine is impossible to get to when not on ramps because of the low nose. The rear is the same way (the diff carrier) because of the low rear end. E: I always have nightmare visions of the front end rolling off the ramps as I jack the rear up.
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Aug 16, 2011 14:48
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My friend finally convinced me to get an account here. This looks like as good of place as any for me to make my inaugural post. I've been the proud owner of a 1997 540i 6 speed for 5 years. Before that I had a '97 528 with the automatic which served me well for a few years before I upgraded. I'll give a brief rundown of the car and what little I have done to it. These pictures are a few years old now, but by far the best ones I have of the car. No pictures I have ever taken are half as good as the guy who did these.    Around the same time I did a before / after comparison on the effects of removing the resonator which was (and maybe still is?) a popular mod at the time and there was much discussion on what the effects would be. The result was a fairly significant loss in mid range power with minimal effect on top end. Even so, I left the resonators off because while the dyno can see the difference, I can't feel it myself. If anything, it feels faster because you can actually hear it, and it sounds good. http://www.youtube.com/user/qcdstick?feature=mhee#p/u/0/tuSkf-kau-4 http://www.youtube.com/user/qcdstick?feature=mhee#p/u/1/VnQj07b5FAU This spring I replaced all of the suspension. Went with EAC Coilovers (adjustable dampening and height), Eibach rear sway, M5 front sway, and all new OEM arms bushings and bearings. Going from 160,000 mile old worn suspension parts to something firm and tight made an incredible difference. The ride is firm but not too harsh with the dampeners on the softer side and long road trips are not a problem as long as the roads aren't total poo poo. The car feels like it could not be more level in corners, it is fantastic! Long since made the move to an electric fan, first to an autozone special and eventually to zionsville which works 10x better. Costs a pretty penny, but is well worth it IMO. I'm now running their radiator too after the 2nd plastic one cracked and left me stranded 3 hours from home. That should never happen again. Fan control is of my own design and continuously evolving. I have a 3 position switch in the center cubby that has settings for automatic, force off, and force on; as well as 2 LEDs in my dash that tell me when the fan is working and when the switch is in the off position (to avoid accidentally switching it off). Everything is run via relays at low amperage up to one big relay that switches the fan. Did my first ever track day with the annual Iowa chapter BMWCCA Longest Day Driving School this spring. That was a ton of fun and I thought I did very well. Skipped completely over group 4, ran group 3 most of the weekend and was bumped to the combined group 1-2 for the last session on Sunday. Instructor recommended me for group 2 next year which was pretty neat since as it was I was the only driver in group 3 who had no prior track experience! Video from the event: http://www.youtube.com/user/qcdstick?feature=mhee#p/u/4/Y7r653pK4ks Taken from my bumper with a GoPro, data from trackmaster via my phone. Data points are not too smooth due to the 1htz update, a 10htz external unit will help for next time. I'll end my BMW related ramblings here. If I can help anyone with any E39 related issues, just let me know. I think I've been through most of the common things. Nathan
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Aug 16, 2011 16:34
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Stick posted:Nice Black E39 Yay, another Iowa Goon  . I have been mulling the idea around about joining the Iowa club as well, glad to see some one else is making good use of it. What part of the state are you from?
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Aug 16, 2011 16:39
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Yay, another Iowa Goon I'm from the Quad Cities. Spent a number of years living in the Ames / Des Moines area as well.
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Aug 16, 2011 17:33
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Old BMWs, best BMWs.
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Aug 16, 2011 18:00
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Is it just me, or does her right shoulder/hand not look right? Probably not the first to ask, don't care.
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Aug 16, 2011 18:19
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Stick posted:Welcome to AI. That is a really nice 540, and the track vid looked enjoyable (if a little underdamped at some points). Did you do the cooling system and suspension work yourself?
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Aug 16, 2011 18:38
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Time to take a break from working on the e36 for a bit. Just in the last two weeks I've: Replaced windshield, rearview mirror Replaced ebrake handle with leather unit and adjusted Replaced window lock switch, hvac cover plate and cigarette lighter Installed remote start/keyless entry Drove to Indiana to get SRS light reset after my dumbass pulled the gauages with the key in Replaced radiator and surge tank 8 quarts of 0w40 New coils (round two) ...and a bunch of other poo poo I can't even remember. This fucker's ready for winter.
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Aug 16, 2011 23:21
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Sterndotstern posted:Welcome to AI. That is a really nice 540 Sterndotstern posted:the track vid looked enjoyable (if a little underdamped at some points). Sterndotstern posted:Did you do the cooling system and suspension work yourself? The cooling I did do myself. Nothing too special in replacing the radiator, water pump, expansion tank, and hoses... but the valley pan was more interesting. There are some great DIY's online though that made it easy. Did all my intake gaskets and a few other things when I was down there too. The fan control was a generic off the shelf unit combined with my own design. Here is a diagram and captioned pictures of the setup if anyone is interested in it: https://picasaweb.google.com/114374977026835764242/FanProject?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMOK7I2WipuQ5AE&feat=directlink PS, I found the dyno data from 2008 - https://picasaweb.google.com/114374977026835764242/ExhaustModSpring2008?authuser=0&feat=directlink
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Aug 17, 2011 00:15
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Stick posted:I don't know what "underdamped" means, seems to be audio related? Dampers are these: http://www.figaropartsshop.co.uk/ekmps/shops/fegiro/images/rear-suspension-dampers-shock-absorbers-72-p.jpg They are part of your suspension and sit inside your springs. They basically stop the springs from bouncing forever. I haven't watched your video, but I imagine he's saying it was a little bit bouncy of a ride. Watched your video, and yeah, you can definitely see it, look at about 1:11, bouncy. AlternateAccount fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 00:22
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AlternateAccount posted:Dampers are these: http://www.figaropartsshop.co.uk/ekmps/shops/fegiro/images/rear-suspension-dampers-shock-absorbers-72-p.jpg Ahh... The dampening on the coilovers is adjustable to 16 or 18 clicks. I just left them on the softer setting I use for the street because I didn't want to take out my rear deck at the track to adjust the rears. But, they do have a bit more bounce to them than the OEM ones did I notice even on the street. I'm not sure how much running a firmer setting would help. Right now I'm at 4 or 5 clicks from the softest setting. But in either case, at $1200 for the set I'm probably in no position to complain, I have no doubt there are nicer setups out there. I needed to replace springs and shocks, the coilovers were cheaper than OEM and adjustable for height and dampening. My first time at the track I was more worried about driving the car as is, and tweaking later. Also, I probably still really suck at being smooth :-) Stick fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 00:37
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Ill never understand why cheap coilover brands contine to create products with completely useless features like having 12-40 increments of adjustments.
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Aug 17, 2011 01:08
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So I just did the tie rods and fcabs on my e46 328i. First time for the tie rods in 175k. Think it needed it. However either I or the alignment shop badly hosed up. There is now an undriveable steering wobble above 53mph. Getting home was fun. I need to solve this tonight. Please help guys! E: I just crawled under and checked and everything is still nice and tight. Could I have installed the fcabs wrong? They're Meyle HD's, do they need to break in or anything? (stupid but hopeful question)  E: I didn't have dish soap handy to push the fcabs back on, so I used what I had, wd-40. This was the retard move right? So what degreaser do I spray in there to help it wear away that wont affect the rubber?
Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 02:16
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Deceptor101 posted:So I just did the tie rods and fcabs on my e46 328i. First time for the tie rods in 175k. Think it needed it. However either I or the alignment shop badly hosed up. There is now an undriveable steering wobble above 53mph. Getting home was fun. I need to solve this tonight. Please help guys! I doubt using WD40 as an assembly lubricant on the FCABs would be responsible for this. Check to see if you or they knocked off some wheel weights causing an out-of-balance wheel. Rotate wheels back to front and see if the wobble moves.
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Aug 17, 2011 05:14
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BraveUlysses posted:Ill never understand why cheap coilover brands contine to create products with completely useless features like having 12-40 increments of adjustments. Bigger numbers will always look good to idiots. Though I don't think 12 is an insane amount of adjustment.
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Aug 17, 2011 09:03
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kimbo305 posted:Bigger numbers will always look good to idiots. Though I don't think 12 is an insane amount of adjustment. I don't think the manufacturer even said how many settings it had. I Just counted lock to lock when I got them. I would guess they put however much travel they need to get the full range of adjustment and leave it at that. The difference from full open to one click from full open is probably negligible, but as you get more and more restriction I think the relative difference in dampening becomes more substantial. That might be why some have so many, some adjustments are indistinguishable but it is the simplest way to get the full range of adjustment?
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Aug 17, 2011 14:33
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Stick posted:My first time at the track I was more worried about driving the car as is, and tweaking later. Definitely wise. Doing stuff like adjusting damping really not be a worry until after 3-4 track weekends, where you know the track well and have explored the cars limits on whichever tires you're running. Good to see you're enjoying the car and using it properly!
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Aug 17, 2011 17:10
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SlapActionJackson posted:I doubt using WD40 as an assembly lubricant on the FCABs would be responsible for this. Check to see if you or they knocked off some wheel weights causing an out-of-balance wheel. Rotate wheels back to front and see if the wobble moves. I took it to the shop and they rebalanced them, but they weren't really out of balance. I left it with them while I went to work but haven't heard back yet. I read through the DIY for the tie rods later and all the subsequent posts and some people recommend bracing the steering rack when tightening the inner tie rod. I didn't do this, as the bentley manual didn't say to. Could this have hosed up my steering rack, rotating it against the pinion gear with 70 ft/lbs? If I did, wouldn't I be feeling it at all speeds, not just highway? Also could I have just installed the fcabs wrong? gently caress this is the first DIY I've hosed up on and it's really messing with my head.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:22
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Emailed back on that ZHP offering 15,000 CAD. It's probably still a bit generous, but ZHPs are obscenely rare here and it's pretty much the exact one I'd want (black cloth, sedan, US version with red gauges/higher redline etc).
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Aug 17, 2011 19:58
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I got mine from a dealer and had the pleasure of negotiating for 45 days because they were asking some absurd price for it. Good luck. 
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Aug 17, 2011 20:19
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Deceptor101 posted:I took it to the shop and they rebalanced them, but they weren't really out of balance. I left it with them while I went to work but haven't heard back yet. I read through the DIY for the tie rods later and all the subsequent posts and some people recommend bracing the steering rack when tightening the inner tie rod. I didn't do this, as the bentley manual didn't say to. Could this have hosed up my steering rack, rotating it against the pinion gear with 70 ft/lbs? If I did, wouldn't I be feeling it at all speeds, not just highway? Also could I have just installed the fcabs wrong? I thought you had to get a proper alignment with 200 lbs of sand in the trunk after getting the FCAB's and Tie Rods done? This probably has nothing to do with your issue but the last time I had an unexplainable wobble it turned out to be the new Pzero's I had put on, they were literally lumpy and defective.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:23
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Keyser S0ze posted:I thought you had to get a proper alignment with 200 lbs of sand in the trunk after getting the FCAB's and Tie Rods done? The "proper" alignment is done with a driver in the driver's seat, or something like 85kg/185lbs.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:56
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Keyser S0ze posted:I thought you had to get a proper alignment with 200 lbs of sand in the trunk after getting the FCAB's and Tie Rods done? Well I'm not sure exactly how they do the alignment, but I had roughly 200 lbs of tools in the trunk, since I forgot to take them out. The shop said that my tires had flat spots and needed replacing. They couldn't explain why I'd have no wobble yesterday and lots today though. They did slightly rebalance one tire, and they said that taking it to 60 didn't create any wobble. So I have nfi . I don't want to buy new tires though .
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Aug 17, 2011 21:01
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