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That is a great dishwasher install job, if you want sewer gas to come up into your dishwasher.
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Aug 17, 2011 06:55
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Nah; there's enough of a loop there to act as a water trap. Looks flatter than it actually is in the photos. I was going to put a standard trap unit at the T if it ever developed issues. It's been four years without a problem.
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Aug 18, 2011 01:08
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PainterofCrap posted:Nah; there's enough of a loop there to act as a water trap. Looks flatter than it actually is in the photos. I was going to put a standard trap unit at the T if it ever developed issues. It's been four years without a problem. Maybe its how the picture is but I just see it running through the floor and no attempt at a trap. Also if you hook it up with out an air gap and that sewer backs up. It will go right into your dish washer.
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Aug 18, 2011 02:53
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What loop? There's no problem you can see because dishwashers are sealed. Rd Rash 1000cc is a pro, and I'm an amateur, but as soon as I saw that picture, I was going to call bullshit. I live in Kentucky, which is on of two (IIRC) states that do not allow loops and require air gaps, but I put in a loop to use the air gap hole in my granite for a soap dispenser. However, if we ever decide to sell our house, I will note in the disclosure that I am willing to put the air gap back in place at the cost of the sunken soap dispenser. What you showed, on the other hand, has absolutely no relation to a loop. Yeah, the line drops below the tee (which should be a wye, right???) so you have a fake trap, but drat... Edit: I think you are also loving up venting requirements. let it mellow fucked around with this message at 03:49 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 03:47
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jackyl posted:What loop? There's no problem you can see because dishwashers are sealed. Rd Rash 1000cc is a pro, and I'm an amateur, but as soon as I saw that picture, I was going to call bullshit. I live in Kentucky, which is on of two (IIRC) states that do not allow loops and require air gaps, but I put in a loop to use the air gap hole in my granite for a soap dispenser. However, if we ever decide to sell our house, I will note in the disclosure that I am willing to put the air gap back in place at the cost of the sunken soap dispenser. Haha I didnt even pick up on the T but you are right, You arent suppose to put a Tee on its back (or 45 degree side). I don't see the venting that could be messed up. I believe thats the kitchen line he hooked into.
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Aug 18, 2011 04:20
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Thanks for the help and the 'what not to do'. I don't want to do anything stupid with this even if there are plans for an entire new kitchen (one where the refrigerator doesn't open over a stairway, cabinets are 24" deep, etc.) in a few years. Hopefully I can get to it this weekend.
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Aug 18, 2011 07:08
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Maybe its how the picture is but I just see it running through the floor and no attempt at a trap. Also if you hook it up with out an air gap and that sewer backs up. It will go right into your dish washer. If the sewer backs up, it's be blasting out of my basement toilet first. It's teed into a 2" line that drops into a 2.5" line. Yes, it's not code. The line (prior to the tee installation) has been like that since 1992 without a problem. If and when it becomes one, I'll trap it. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 15:18
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PainterofCrap posted:If the sewer backs up, it's be blasting out of my basement toilet first. Sorry I should have typed that with more of a description. If that kitchen line backs up, because we all know they get the most food and random poo poo down it and they are only a 2 inch line. Then when it backs up it will go into your dish washer first because that is the lowest fixture.And I say its still installed poorly because its in a horizontal run. The clog up more then any vertical run
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Aug 18, 2011 15:23
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You are correct, it's unconventional, and easily correctable should a problem develop. As noted though, the sink drain run there is intentionally oversized, since I run a garbage disposal. the only choke point is the trap off of the garbage disposal at 1.5". Beyond that, it's 2" and on up. If I ever sell the house, I'll re-do it do the next guy doesn't have to deal with it. For now, however, it serves my purposes. I had clogs before, when it teed into the garbage disposal. Now that it's past the trap and dumping into a larger line - none. (edit) also I did not make clear - that dishwasher drain hose is looped up next to the machine, topping off above the plane of the bottom of the sink. Which brings up a question to ask a pro - why are (clothes) washing machine drain standpipes required by code to sit so high? I get at least a half-dozen losses a year for flooding, associated with timer failures that leave the water running into the machine. Since the top of the standpipe is higher than the lip of the washing machine bucket, the buckets overflow. Why wouldn't the pipe top sit at least an inch or so below thw bucket lip? That way, when this happens, the water will dump down the standpipe drain. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 15:28
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PainterofCrap posted:You are correct, it's unconventional, and easily correctable should a problem develop. As noted though, the sink drain run there is intentionally oversized, since I run a garbage disposal. the only choke point is the trap off of the garbage disposal at 1.5". Beyond that, it's 2" and on up. I don't know about IBC but UPC requires 2 inch for kitchen sink minimum for the drain. But the dirty arm can be 1 1/2. They do that because they are most likely to clog. They want I beleive 18-32 inches for the stand pipe length. The reason being is , its a sudds producing fixture. If you have to short of a stand pipe, suds will come back up it and make your wall foam. They also require the bottom of the p trap in the wall to be 6 inches off the ground. That one I believe is because they use to have clean outs on the trap itself and 6 inches was a decent amount of space to remove the C/O plug and have some working room.
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Aug 19, 2011 02:44
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I'm renovating my kitchen, and in that process am putting in a new sink and a new dishwasher (there was no dishwasher before). I think I've got the plumbing sorted out, but I'd like to post it here to get confirmation in case I'm missing something. I'm in Alberta, Canada for reference. Water Lines Here's my existing hot water line (click for big):  I need to add a tee for the dishwasher supply, but I'm a little confused on the sizing. It'll be an Ikea faucet, which apparently have 1/2" supply lines, rather than the standard 3/8" lines. I'd like to get a SharkBite tee for ease of use, and I think I'd need one like this: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/tee-3-4-inch-x-1-2-inch-x-3-4-inch/921505 However, I'm confused by the 3/4" ends; they look smaller than the 1/2" ends, and I'm worried it won't attach to my existing supply line. Assuming this is correct, the only remaining question I have is, how do I connect the supply lines to the SharkBite tee? I've got this dishwasher kit:  And I don't know how I would attach the end of that supply line to the tee. Similarly, is there anything I'm going to need to connect the Ikea water supply lines to the Sharkbite tee? Drain Lines Here's my existing drain lines (click for big):  I plan on taking all of that out right to the wall, and replacing it pretty much exactly like this:  Is there anything wrong with this setup? The drain on the left has an add-in with the dishwasher drain stub, which I'll need.
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Aug 24, 2011 17:51
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Jadus posted:I'm renovating my kitchen, and in that process am putting in a new sink and a new dishwasher (there was no dishwasher before). Well looking at the hot side (left I assume) You will have to cut under that tee to put in a shark bite since someone dripped a ton of solder down the pipe and unless you want to file it off , the shark bite wont seal. The drain picture looks fine, if you arent running to an air gap first then run the hose high by the rim of the sink in the cabinet then back into a dish washer wye. I don't know if you read what i said about shark bites. But make sure you put some type of vegtable oil on the o ring in them. It helps them seal . Yes it is very redundant and most the time you don't need too. But you get one time that one will drip because you didn't then you will lube everyone one.
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Aug 25, 2011 04:23
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Jadus posted:I'm renovating my kitchen, and in that process am putting in a new sink and a new dishwasher (there was no dishwasher before). For your hot water supply problem, I would cut off that line below the existing valve, then put one of these on. the big end goes over the pipe, you've got a 1/2" compression for your Ikea faucet and a 3/8" compression for your dishwasher. That would be the simplest one-piece solution. Just cut off the existing valve, remove any burrs, slide the biggest nut and ferrule on, then tighten them against the valve inlet. As for the drain solution and your proposed replacement, it's hard to say exactly what parts you would need. We would have to know where your tubs are in relation to the drain hole on the wall. The picture you gave has a vertical "baffle tee", and judging from the drain hole right in the middle of your cabinet, you may have to use a horizontal baffle tee instead. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 27, 2011 21:28
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I'm doing a bathroom remodeling, and would like some feedback on if my drain plan is reasonable. The layout is roughly like this:code:
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Aug 30, 2011 03:39
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Sir_Lagsalot posted:I'm doing a bathroom remodeling, and would like some feedback on if my drain plan is reasonable. The layout is roughly like this: You are correct to worry. First a tee shouldnt be used in any horizontal application. It should be a wye with a 45. Also that side outleft of the wye needs to be rolled up so its not flat and will properly drain.
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Aug 31, 2011 01:39
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I don't know if this is the proper place, but it says plumbing so I am going for it. A pipe burst in/under my bathroom sink and leaked down through into my kitchen ceiling and light fixture. I am pretty sure it seeped down through the electrical conduit. I do know copper piping was done in the basement and kitchen, but not to the upstairs bathroom.(If this matters) A plumber has been called, but I was wondering if anyone could categorize how expensive I should expect this to be, as in a few hundred or a few thousand, just for a general idea. Thank you in advance!
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Aug 31, 2011 16:43
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You are correct to worry. First a tee shouldnt be used in any horizontal application. It should be a wye with a 45. Also that side outleft of the wye needs to be rolled up so its not flat and will properly drain.
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Aug 31, 2011 23:15
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Insignificunt posted:I don't know if this is the proper place, but it says plumbing so I am going for it. I honestly can't, you will save him time if you remove everything from under the cabinent so he has room to work. If the pipe broke in the wall, nicely cut yourself a hole into the back of the cabinent. But Other then that I can't give you any advice as to what it will cost. It all depends on what he has to do and how good he is at it. Sir_Lagsalot posted:How much should the side of the wye be rolled up? I don't have a lot of vertical room, hence the side tee idea. Ideally the side inlet should be rolled at a 45 but do what you can and make sure you can still hit grade of 1/4 inch per foot with the pipe coming out of it.
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Sep 1, 2011 02:14
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ideally the side inlet should be rolled at a 45 but do what you can and make sure you can still hit grade of 1/4 inch per foot with the pipe coming out of it. Ok, how does this layout sound: code:
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Sep 2, 2011 01:50
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Just installed my Insinkerator Evolution Compact. This thing is SO QUIET compared to the Badger 5. Thanks goes to this thread for pointing out this awesome disposal. Also, installation tip for anyone going to do an install soon: used a car floor jack to help prop up your disposal while you install it. I struggled for a good 15 mins trying to get that bitch up there with my arms at all weird angles. Once I used the jack, it went up in 30 seconds.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:02
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ASSTASTIC posted:Just installed my Insinkerator Evolution Compact. This thing is SO QUIET compared to the Badger 5. Thanks goes to this thread for pointing out this awesome disposal. Ya they can be a bitch to mount properly. I always thought a car jack or bottle jack would be nice but i've never had one on the job. Though when installing an entire kitchen sink I try to mount the faucet and disposal to the sink before putting it on the counter top. But there is certain times that you will fight it.
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Sep 9, 2011 02:30
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Here's an odd plumbing question. Hot or cold, the first burst of water out of my kitchen faucet is always frothy and it smells and tastes like rear end. It only lasts about 2 seconds, and it's only my kitchen faucet that does this. I was wondering what's going on here?
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Sep 9, 2011 19:33
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kid sinister posted:Here's an odd plumbing question. Hot or cold, the first burst of water out of my kitchen faucet is always frothy and it smells and tastes like rear end. It only lasts about 2 seconds, and it's only my kitchen faucet that does this. I was wondering what's going on here? Are you on city water? If yes then it could be something in your faucet tainting the water. Does any other faucet have an issue?
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Sep 10, 2011 18:22
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Yeah, it's city water. I have a small place, only the kitchen and 1 bathroom faucet. I never noticed that from my bathroom faucet either.
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Sep 11, 2011 03:13
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kid sinister posted:Yeah, it's city water. I have a small place, only the kitchen and 1 bathroom faucet. I never noticed that from my bathroom faucet either. Well either its something wrong with piping in the wall. But if copper is stubbed out I'd blame the faucet. If it was galvanized in the house maybe a black iron fitting or nipple got installed that is rusting through and causing turbidity in your water.
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Sep 11, 2011 11:55
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So, I'm having some hard water weirdness, and this seemed like as good a place as any to ask about it. I already know we have pretty hard water from the deposits we get in our toilets, sinks, faucets, shower head, everywhere. Softening is unfortunately not an option as we rent. Water out of the tap tastes absolutely disgusting, so we filter it. In one particular place, however, it has become completely intolerable. The dishwasher. I'm not really sure how this works, but dishes, especially on the top shelf, end up with this weird calcified crap on them after the rinse cycle that is incredibly hard and tough to get off (requires steel wool or a steel scrubby). Mixed in with what I assume is minerals are what I assume to be very tiny particles of food, but I can't figure out where those are coming from because the dishes are otherwise clean: the dishwasher is basically doing its job and the dishes get clean, but then they have this stuff on them. Is there something somewhere inside the dishwasher I need to clean? Is there a product I can add to the cycle to help? Would there even be something I could put in there that would attract the mineral deposits away from the dishes, because that would be the most ideal solution, I think.
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Sep 17, 2011 21:20
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Powdered Toast Man posted:So, I'm having some hard water weirdness, and this seemed like as good a place as any to ask about it. I already know we have pretty hard water from the deposits we get in our toilets, sinks, faucets, shower head, everywhere. Softening is unfortunately not an option as we rent. Water out of the tap tastes absolutely disgusting, so we filter it. That I am unsure of, but are you on city or well water? If its city call the water district and find out what the hardness of the water is and what else there is. I imagine the filter at your tap is just a carbon filter which will mainly takes out chlorine. So I will assume you are on city water with a high chlorine concentration. If you are on a well then the flockulent system is running way to high.
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Sep 18, 2011 02:38
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That I am unsure of, but are you on city or well water? City water. I don't know why it's hard; my parents live about ten minutes away and their water is fine.
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Sep 19, 2011 12:45
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I bought a hose-bib pressure gauge from Home Depot. It's a Watts IWTG. Can I leave it connected permanently under pressure? It's behind a pressure-regulator.
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Sep 20, 2011 06:20
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insta posted:I bought a hose-bib pressure gauge from Home Depot. It's a Watts IWTG. Can I leave it connected permanently under pressure? It's behind a pressure-regulator. If the hose bib is outside no , because it will freeze in the winter time. If its inside you should be fine. I really don't see a problem with it. Other then it looks tacky. Personally I don't know if i'd trust leaving it on all the time. I'd rather have a solid connection. And PowderedToast. Unless your parents have a softener or are on a different water district. I don't know what to tell you.
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Sep 22, 2011 15:00
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:And PowderedToast. Unless your parents have a softener or are on a different water district. I don't know what to tell you. Same water provider, and they're ten minutes down the road. I don't know what the gently caress. My father suggests doing a rinse cycle with some white vinegar to help clean things out, so I'm going to try that.
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Sep 22, 2011 23:46
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Powdered Toast Man posted:Same water provider, and they're ten minutes down the road. I don't know what the gently caress. Get a free water test done. Kinetico will offer one in your area most likely.
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Sep 23, 2011 06:42
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If you are on a well then the flockulent system is running way to high. I've only seen flocculant being used in a clarifier type system. How would that work in a home type well system?
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Sep 24, 2011 23:36
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It's burgin' time! 
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I heart bacon posted:I've only seen flocculant being used in a clarifier type system. How would that work in a home type well system? Now I could be wrong I have only just recently got into the water treatment side of things. But they usually use chlorine to attack the ferric iron. In simple terms you turn snow flakes into snow balls. The flock system injects ratio of a solution depending on water conditions . It then flows into a reactor tank where it has time to group the iron together. From there it will hit a filter with macrolite media to filter out the larger iron . Now this is only one application. They also use caschem in an similar injection type system but at this time I can' remember what its for.
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Sep 25, 2011 01:13
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Water pressure question: I have a 75 foot well with a 1/2 HP jet pump feeding an ancient steel bladder-less cold water pressure tank that I need to inject air into all the time. The pump is set to 40/20 psi. My water pressure is not great and it takes a good long time to get hot water to the kitchen, which is about 40-50 feet from the hot water tank. I'm thinking about increasing the pump pressure from 40/20 to 50/30. Anything I need to watch out for there? Also is there any advantage to replacing the tank to a modern bladder tank? The kicker is that I'll only be using the well for another 5 years or so as municipal water is being installed out my way.
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Sep 26, 2011 15:56
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A new pressure tank is only like $400. So why not get a new one that you don't have to gently caress with all the time. One thing about upping pressure. It won't up your volume. You still have a 50 gal (i assume its that size) pressure tank. Regardless of the pressure you will still have the same amount of volume. You can look into running 2 pressure tanks
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Sep 27, 2011 14:51
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I just replaced an old 1980 toilet with a new American Standard. On both toilets you need to hold the handle down for a few seconds to flush. It's annoying. Is that normal? Here is the toilet: http://tinyurl.com/5wk8gj3
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Sep 27, 2011 23:51
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wormil posted:I just replaced an old 1980 toilet with a new American Standard. On both toilets you need to hold the handle down for a few seconds to flush. It's annoying. Is that normal? The toilet flapper's chain may have to much slack in it. Try adjusting it so there isnt much slack it in. But enough so it lets the flapper seat properly.
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Sep 28, 2011 05:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:The toilet flapper's chain may have to much slack in it. Try adjusting it so there isnt much slack it in. But enough so it lets the flapper seat properly. Doh, that was it. I left it as it came under the assumption they knew what they were doing at the factory. One more question, lately my dishwasher isn't rinsing well, it leaves a film on the dishes. I've got it set for hot rinse but that isn't helping much. Haven't changed soaps or anything. It's about 12 years old. Is this a sign it's wore out or needs a repair?
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Sep 28, 2011 06:19
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When's the last time you cleaned your filters and around the pump? They get gummed up pretty good by grease, soap, and other gunk. I found a bunch of videos on Youtube when I had to do it with my Kenmore dishwasher.
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Sep 28, 2011 11:37
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