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heyou posted:How can I tell if a wall is load bearing? I'm thinking about taking down a wall on the second floor, because the bedroom that it creates is pretty tiny. Removing this L-shaped wall would create 3 usable bedrooms, and upstairs den/rec room area. I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure you'll need an engineer to review the original plans. A building permit is going to most likely be required. It's possible that the wall is load bearing and there's a beam underneath it that allows for the open room underneath, or there was supposed to be a load bearing wall underneath it and it was removed during a renovation.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:13
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Elijya posted:The flush valve in one of my toilets is leaking because the flapper doesn't quite cover the top of the valve, which results in an annoying gurgle as it constantly drains and refills at a slow rate. The flapper doesn't seem replaceable, and changing the whole valve would be overkill. Does anyone know any home remedies for closing the very narrow (less than 1mm) gap between the flapper and valve opening? My plumbing experience is limited to replacing a bathtub faucet. Flapper replacement kits are cheap as hell. Here's one guy's method for scuffing the mating surfaces between the flapper and the bottom gasket: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FOWj-J0wLU JBWeld, as mentioned by hayden, will also work.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:58
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hayden. posted:I don't really care about the motor, the quieter the better. Sumps cost like $50 on amazon and I could just buy one of those and take it apart for the motor. Or there's this: I think you should be ok with that motor. That controller I linked earlier is for max 2.5 amps so I think as long asyou don't go over that you should be ok. That would be a decent setup that will not bog down on your for about $50.
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Aug 17, 2011 17:29
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:I am trying to strip apart the chrome and porcelain off an vintage stove to have it refinished. It was pretty easy to disassembly most of it, except for one thing. It is similar to this: I suspect that the knob may be pressed onto the bushing in the back, but without knowing the design it's only a shot in the dark. Is there a way you can photograph underneath that lip there to show the mechanism? You may be able to remove the whole arm/knob assembly and work on it from there. Edit: there could also be a little tiny set screw holding that knob onto the shaft, somewhere underneath the knob, beneath the gunk. I can't say without better pictures. Pepperoneedy fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 23:55
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Please help me, DIY goons! My daughter nurses with a supplemental nursing system (SNS), which uses a set of tiny capillary tubes on a flexible plastic circle. One of the tubes recently snapped off right at the base: On the left there, there should be another tube, but instead there's a hole. I'm hoping somebody can offer me a recommendation for glue. It needs to be waterproof/watertight, adhere to plastic and be flexible. Is anyone able to help? Thanks in advance! edit: vvvv It doesn't, sorry, should have added that we tried that. It pops out after a bit. It doesn't seem to bond as tightly as we would need it to, either that or it's not flexible enough. Fire In The Disco fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 03:08
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Id see if hot glue doesn't work
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Aug 18, 2011 03:33
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You can get food safe silicon sealant, its expensive but you'll only need a tiny amount. Search medical supply sites, I think.
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Aug 18, 2011 06:30
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Thank you, I will check that out! 
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Aug 18, 2011 06:58
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Cakefool posted:You can get food safe silicon sealant, its expensive but you'll only need a tiny amount. Search medical supply sites, I think. Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace will have silicone sealant meant for aquariums that's also food/microwave/dishwasher safe. Something like this. Not too expensive either.
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Aug 18, 2011 15:54
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That is a much better idea, do that.
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Aug 18, 2011 17:01
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Anyone know what happened to forum member Socratic Moon and his yoga thing he was building in Hawaii? The domain for it doesn't work anymore and I don't see anything on Google.
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Aug 19, 2011 02:04
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Hey goons, I'm carving a pipe and I need to know what kind of finish to use on it. Is there a specific brand of food/smoke safe finish I should use on it?
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Aug 19, 2011 02:08
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Grape Juice Vampire posted:Hey goons, I'm carving a pipe and I need to know what kind of finish to use on it. Is there a specific brand of food/smoke safe finish I should use on it?
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Aug 19, 2011 02:16
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GWBBQ posted:Beeswax. Thank ya kindly.
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Aug 19, 2011 02:39
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heyou posted:How can I tell if a wall is load bearing? I'm thinking about taking down a wall on the second floor, because the bedroom that it creates is pretty tiny. Removing this L-shaped wall would create 3 usable bedrooms, and upstairs den/rec room area. Here's a rough sketch of what the floor plan looks like: Its not easy to determine if a wall is load bearing (unless you have the architects plans in front of you) Openings in load bearing walls (windows and doorways) will have a load bearing header across it, non load bearing walls should not (key word being "should" since some bonehead builders put headers on EVERY opening even if not required). An even better way would be to go into the attic and analyze the framing and find where the load paths travel to. If you're unsure and don't want to risk your house, I'd have a professional look at the situation.
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Aug 19, 2011 02:40
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hayden. posted:Anyone know what happened to forum member Socratic Moon and his yoga thing he was building in Hawaii? The domain for it doesn't work anymore and I don't see anything on Google. He's still on SA and posting. I don't know if he accepts PM's but last I read he sold the land off to a Tibetan temple or some such thing and is off doing other things now. Lesson learned - in Goon Survivor Island, the Island wins in the end.
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Aug 19, 2011 16:36
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Soup in a Bag posted:Lowe's/Home Depot/Ace will have silicone sealant meant for aquariums that's also food/microwave/dishwasher safe. Something like this. Not too expensive either. Thank you SO MUCH for this recommendation. I was skeptical at first because it didn't seem to be adhering, but I let it cure for the 24 hours recommended on the package, and it is PERFECT! It's watertight and flexible and my daughter's SNS works again and doesn't leak! Thank you again!
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Aug 19, 2011 19:13
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Grave $avings posted:I suspect that the knob may be pressed onto the bushing in the back, but without knowing the design it's only a shot in the dark. Is there a way you can photograph underneath that lip there to show the mechanism? You may be able to remove the whole arm/knob assembly and work on it from there. FWIW I cleaned the crap out of the knob and it looks okay now so I might not need to take it off and have it rechromed anyways. The porcelein in the frame needs some touching up but we're going to see if they can do that without having that stuff removed. I can't think of a good way to get a picture underneath there. Heck it's hard enough for me to look underneath. What I see are basically two bumps. From what I can tell, they're not screws.
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Aug 19, 2011 19:21
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This may be a longshot -- Does anyone know what kind of tape is used to hold various parts of an electronic product from moving during shipment? For example, a printer might have this tape holding the ink cartridges in place and holding the cover closed. The "remove before use" tape. It doesn't rip easily, doesn't stick too much, and removes cleanly without residue.
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Aug 19, 2011 20:57
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taqueso posted:This may be a longshot -- Does anyone know what kind of tape is used to hold various parts of an electronic product from moving during shipment? For example, a printer might have this tape holding the ink cartridges in place and holding the cover closed. The "remove before use" tape. It doesn't rip easily, doesn't stick too much, and removes cleanly without residue.
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Aug 19, 2011 22:31
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So I have been using a grout remover with the plan of redoing the grout in one of my bathrooms since it needed to be done. I don't really have the money to spend on re-tiling but I do need to at least have a proper barrier against moisture so the bathroom can be used. It seems that grout has been the only thing holding some of this stuff in place. How can I fix this? What do I need to level out the poo poo/cement board underneath?
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Aug 19, 2011 23:55
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dwoloz posted:Search for fiber reinforced adhesive tapes The tape I'm thinking of doesn't look like the results for that search. No embedded fibers, or at least the fibers aren't visible.
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Aug 20, 2011 00:09
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:FWIW I cleaned the crap out of the knob and it looks okay now so I might not need to take it off and have it rechromed anyways. The porcelein in the frame needs some touching up but we're going to see if they can do that without having that stuff removed. Sounds like it's pressed on then, too bad. Good luck with the restoration!
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Aug 20, 2011 00:47
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Totally TWISTED posted:So I have been using a grout remover with the plan of redoing the grout in one of my bathrooms since it needed to be done. I don't really have the money to spend on re-tiling but I do need to at least have a proper barrier against moisture so the bathroom can be used. It seems that grout has been the only thing holding some of this stuff in place. That looks from here like a wet bed installation, not Wonderboard/Hardiebacker In either case, if you want to sorta keep it limping along for awhile without replacing the entire floor, pop up as many of the loose tiles as you can. Then, scrape or chip off the adhesive on the back of the tile (or buy new tile, which, while clean, probably won't match...unless that's just white tile in need of a cleaning) You can then reset the tile using just grout (instead of mastic) as an adhesive and as a leveller. You can butter the grout on the back of each tile & press 'em in. If you load 'em up good, excess grout will squish up through the gaps and you can install & grout in one step. The marble threshold is shot. They're less than $20 at Lowe's or HD, you just have to get it cut down to the correct width if you don't have access to a wet saw. I replaced my floor in late June, and bedded the threshold with grout.
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Aug 20, 2011 04:39
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taqueso posted:This may be a longshot -- Does anyone know what kind of tape is used to hold various parts of an electronic product from moving during shipment? I'm not sure but it looks a lot like 3M #471 Vinyl tape: http://www.3m.com/product/information/Vinyl-Tape.html That stuff is sold for marine painting applications and loads of other things. The strapping tape that was mentioned earlier *is* used for some parts but it's not what you were describing. You'll want the thinner density tape to match what you're doing.
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Aug 21, 2011 20:58
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Hey goooons, it seems that I have lost alot of hot water pressure randomly. Yesterday I went to take a shower and the water was not forcefully coming out of my shower head. I also noticed when the washing machine is filling up with warm/hot water it takes alot longer. I live in a condo with some other units and I haven't asked them if they are having problems. But where do I even begin? fyallm fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 22, 2011 02:14
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First, ask if anyone else is having problems. If they are, building problem, not yours. If it is your problem, determine if it's just hot or also cold feeds having problems. Hot alone meant an issue with your heater, cold also means the main feed into your place is restricted.
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Aug 22, 2011 10:36
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Cakefool posted:First, ask if anyone else is having problems. If they are, building problem, not yours. It's been weird, ever since I have started having this problem it seems like everyone disappeared, but I put up a sign asking if anyone is experiencing problems. It seems to just be hot water, so I'm guessing it is something with my Water Heater, but not sure what. It doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere on the ground.
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Aug 22, 2011 14:57
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dwoloz posted:Its not easy to determine if a wall is load bearing (unless you have the architects plans in front of you) Okay, I'm trying to find someone to take a look. Am I looking for an engineer or is this something a contractor could tell me? Anyone have a good resource for finding a good contractor/engineer?
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Aug 22, 2011 16:06
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I'd check with the department of professional and occupational regulation (dpor) for your state. They do all that stuff. I am pretty sure that if you get anybody other than a licensed professional engineer to evaluate it, and it falls over, you are liable for it. If you get an engineer to sign off on it, and a contractor to do it, and your house collapses you can sue them for damages whereas if you gently caress it up yourself youre on the hook. All that licensing stuff is basically just so you have somebody to sue. By sealing drawings engineers are saying 'this will do what I have designed it to do if built exactly as I have said using the materials I have specified and if it does not then I'll pay for any damages related to it loving up'. At least that's my understanding. I could be wrong.
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Aug 22, 2011 18:57
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I'm trying to figure out where to put the center speaker for my setup, and am thinking of making a speaker stand for it. This is what we're using for our entertainment center (just laying on its side):  The shelves are too small for the center speaker and the unit itself is too narrow for the speaker to sit right in front of the TV. I'm thinking of making a simple stand so that the speaker is right above the TV. I'd wall mount it, but we're in an apartment and want as few holes as possible. The speaker is only about five pounds. Would a 1" or 2" wooden dowel with a mount or a flat piece to set the speaker on work? I'd most likely attach the dowel to the TV stand for stability. I'd of course, paint it to color match. I'm open to other suggestions, as well.
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Aug 22, 2011 19:25
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CuddleChunks posted:I'm not sure but it looks a lot like 3M #471 Vinyl tape: http://www.3m.com/product/information/Vinyl-Tape.html Any idea how the adhesive on that tape is for removability and no residue after sitting for a few years?
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Aug 22, 2011 20:15
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So I broke a couple of kitchen tiles, and since the old owners were the ones that put it in, I have no idea what kind of tile it is. Is there some kind of secret way to finding an exact match, or will I just have to bring part of a piece with me and shop around to find something satisfactory?
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Aug 22, 2011 22:33
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Cosmik Debris posted:I'd check with the department of professional and occupational regulation (dpor) for your state. They do all that stuff. I am pretty sure that if you get anybody other than a licensed professional engineer to evaluate it, and it falls over, you are liable for it. If you get an engineer to sign off on it, and a contractor to do it, and your house collapses you can sue them for damages whereas if you gently caress it up yourself youre on the hook. Fortunately, there are few things in residential construction that need formal engineering, and nearly any competent contractor should be able to look at it and tell you if it's structural or not, and what your options are to take out the wall. Again, ensure they're licensed and insured!
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Aug 22, 2011 22:50
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Bank posted:So I broke a couple of kitchen tiles, and since the old owners were the ones that put it in, I have no idea what kind of tile it is. Is there some kind of secret way to finding an exact match, or will I just have to bring part of a piece with me and shop around to find something satisfactory? There's a company called ITEL http://www.itelinc.com/ that could probably find out what they are, and if they're still available. I've never paid for this service (I am an insurance adjuster), so I'm not sure what it would cost...although with UPS shipping & testing it should be less than $100.
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Aug 23, 2011 02:25
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My wife wants me to seal the faucet in our bathroom to the porcelain sink. I know that there is plumber's putty between the faucet and sink, but is there something I could put around the interface on the outside? Maybe some sort of clear sealant? Also, is there a caulking that people recommend for showers? The caulking recently disintegrated on our marble shower underneath the door, I figured it would be a good thing if I re-caulked it. You guys are awesome, btw, I love lurking this thread.
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Aug 23, 2011 03:07
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Should I be concerned about this water heater control? It wasn't like this last time I looked at it.
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Aug 23, 2011 03:20
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 If this image is even remotely to scale, there is insanely low chance that ANY of those interior walls are load bearing. You could take a few pictures and get some measurements in here. If you have access to an open attic above it, take a pic of that too. If in doubt, start your demolition by removing plaster/drywall without breaking the framing. Once the framing is exposed, you should be able to see clearly. Even if any of those walls carry weight, the worse you'll ever end up with is a soffit where your new support header is. The walls will be gone, that's for sure. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Aug 23, 2011 03:48
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eddiewalker posted:Should I be concerned about this water heater control? It wasn't like this last time I looked at it. Shut it off. Now. The ring under there ain't burning right. You may also have debris/dustballs/fried mice etc in there. You may also have a blocked flue line. Been experiencing lots of headaches latelty? That regulator's now dangerous, and should be replaced. If the water heater's more than five years old, it would be better to replace it entirely. Which will run you $500-$800 if you don't DIY. Water heaters got expensive in the past five years. A 40-gal gas unit used to be less than $200 for a low-end. Now, they're closer to $450. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Aug 23, 2011 13:24
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taqueso posted:Any idea how the adhesive on that tape is for removability and no residue after sitting for a few years? No idea. I think 3M has a support line where you can pose your adhesive scenario for them and they can recommend a product. I may be hallucinating due to glue fumes, I but I think they have some kind of phone support like that.
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Aug 23, 2011 19:33
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