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Until they start using forged pistons again (which they can't due to emissions regulations) engines will keep blowing. Hopefully the new EB series of motors coming out in a few years will change that.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:22
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blargle posted:(which they can't due to emissions regulations) Also, they could just make cast pistons out of things that aren't cheese and have decent tuning. Many manufacturers do this, even subaru in the 2.0 turbo.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:31
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I think maybe blargle was implying that since forged pistons are heavier that engine inertia losses will cause them to be less efficient overall. It was one of the reasons Subaru cited for going to the hypereutectic pistons over the forged pistons in the earlier (v5 and earlier?) STIs. I'm somewhat inexperienced when it comes to engine building - I was under the impression that a lot of the problem with the modern EJ failures were the piston rings and not the pistons themselves.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:36
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Blaise posted:Depending on how hood your autozone is, you can probably get away with doing it in their lot. In West Philly I see them dropping transmissions There are signs all over my autozone not to work on cars in their lot.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:51
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nm posted:Many manufacturers do this, even subaru in the 2.0 turbo. I'm not sure the 2.0 turbo would pass today's new car emissions standards. They run pig rich (which is one of the reasons why they never really had much trouble like this.)
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Aug 18, 2011 16:52
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Forged pistons have looser piston to wall clearance than cast pistons due to thermal expansion, producing higher emissions before they're warmed up. I think they're actually lighter than cast, in general.
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Aug 18, 2011 16:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It is a great idea. I see there are all manner of swaps available, anything I should look at specifically or just try to find a stock one ? How reliable are they? They seem to have a rust issue but in the northeast you likely won't find a totally rust free car anyway. They look rad as hell to drive, especially in the winter
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Aug 18, 2011 16:57
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Nodoze posted:I see there are all manner of swaps available, anything I should look at specifically or just try to find a stock one ? How reliable are they? They seem to have a rust issue but in the northeast you likely won't find a totally rust free car anyway. They're rock solid reliable but they do have the same headgasket issues as other 2.5L Subaru motors of the vintage. There's maintenance stuff you'll need to do anyway (spark plugs/wires, fuel/air filters, some sensors) but that's true for any car of that age. Rust is a concern because Subaru made some poor decisions regarding the rear fender liners that trap moisture against the inside of the bumper/fender. Over time, it leads to rust (see also: 90s Hondas, Mazdas and Nissans). You'll want to try and find an example that has as little rust as possible, and take care of any rust that is there properly so it lasts a good long time.
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Aug 18, 2011 17:13
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What is your budget? :p
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Aug 18, 2011 17:29
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Vladimir Putin posted:There are signs all over my autozone not to work on cars in their lot. When I was in my teens I worked at a parts store that had a pretty relaxed policy about that and didn't care. Then we had all the retards who thought they could change their oil(s) and left enough poo poo on the ground to start a new toxic waste dump. It was loving absurd the idiocy of some people. After that, it was a pretty strict rule. Most people just parked on the street (city property) and did it there afterwards. Once a retard got his legs run over because of the way he was laying under the car 
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Aug 18, 2011 17:39
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Nodoze posted:I see there are all manner of swaps available, anything I should look at specifically or just try to find a stock one ? How reliable are they? They seem to have a rust issue but in the northeast you likely won't find a totally rust free car anyway. I vote ez30d swap  ..though there are only like 4 that I've heard of
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Aug 18, 2011 17:57
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blargle posted:Forged pistons have looser piston to wall clearance than cast pistons due to thermal expansion, producing higher emissions before they're warmed up.
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Aug 18, 2011 18:11
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Vladimir Putin posted:There are signs all over my autozone not to work on cars in their lot. There's also signs all over the road to not exceed 35mph 
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Aug 18, 2011 18:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You should try to find a stock one, because I can't think of an experience more maddening than trying to debug someone else's half-assed swap. They're mighty fun even with the stock 2.5RS motor, and there's a lot you can do with suspension in order to make them easily hunt down your average WRX. How long do engines last into the high miles ? A lot of the non-swaps I see are easily over 100k. Kinda hesitant to DD something with that many miles and still want to beat on it a little too
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Aug 18, 2011 18:58
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Assuming the headgaskets haven't gone (or if they have, they've been repaired before much damage could be done) you could probably get many more miles out of it. Sockington/8ender managed to kill a 2.5L SOHC in a 2002 Impreza but that was a sludging issue related to the headgaskets IIRC. Not sure how much a replacement DOHC 2.5L would be, but a replacement SOHC 2.2L or 2.5L would probably not be very expensive/difficult to source. I'm unsure about the difficulties of doing that swap (ECU?) Getting an inspection done before you buy that includes a compression and leakdown test is a great way to figure out if the engine is solid. For what it's worth I severely beat on my SOHC EJ22 and it has 200k mi. There are a few GCs that come to autocross with over 200k km/~130k mi. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 19:05
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In shooting the poo poo with Blaise's friend Scott (who I sold my 97 Outback to) during the sale, he mentioned that you can tell if the head gaskets have been replaced with the updated part simply by looking at the bit of head gasket you can see from the outside (without removing anything). I had never heard this before. Some googling yielded these potentially useful links on the subject: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116806 (look at the pics on the bottom of the second page) http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/
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Aug 18, 2011 20:55
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Ha. I'm spending tonight working on that exact legacy so that I can park my WRX there tomorrow to drop the motor. Why did you put 250k on the title instead of just saying 'not actual mileage?' Confusing as hell given that the cluster says 98k. Subaru wagon army gently caress yeah 
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Aug 18, 2011 21:28
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There was talk earlier about the key fob and alarm. I believe if you open the door with a key and the alarm sounds, with the key in the ignition, turning from off to accessory three times within five seconds stops the alarm. A nice trick if your fob battery ever dies.
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Aug 18, 2011 23:52
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Jared592 posted:In shooting the poo poo with Blaise's friend Scott (who I sold my 97 Outback to) during the sale, he mentioned that you can tell if the head gaskets have been replaced with the updated part simply by looking at the bit of head gasket you can see from the outside (without removing anything). I had never heard this before. that guy sure has some interesting theories, such as gravity and the location of the grounds causing headgaskets to fail... if you are replacing the headgaskets in an n/a 2.5, use the following part numbers phase 1 dohc: 11044AA610 phase 2 sohc: 11044AA642 - this is the 04-06 sti gasket and not the part the dealer will give you if you provide a vin# 08+ sohc: 11044AA770 - 08+ sti gasket with different cooling passages.
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Aug 19, 2011 00:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sockington/8ender managed to kill a 2.5L SOHC in a 2002 Impreza but that was a sludging issue related to the headgaskets IIRC. I had no hand in how that engine came to be that way. quote:Right now I'm stumped and I've parked it because I think its some very light rod knock and I don't want to really damage the engine. When I start it in the morning I get a loud BRAAAPPP tapping noise that lasts about 3 seconds. During this the oil light is on longer than it should be. Once the car warms up its noisy but not more than most Subarus. Drives fine while warm with one exception. If you're going around 100 km/h and let off the gas very quickly you can hear a fainter version of the same BRAAPP sound for a few seconds. Its not at all like most rod knock I've heard and seen.
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Aug 19, 2011 00:10
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Sockington posted:I had no hand in how that engine came to be that way.
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Aug 19, 2011 00:11
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Blaise posted:Ha. I'm spending tonight working on that exact legacy so that I can park my WRX there tomorrow to drop the motor. Why did you put 250k on the title instead of just saying 'not actual mileage?' Confusing as hell given that the cluster says 98k. That old beast served us well. 
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Aug 19, 2011 00:20
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Replaced rear rotors (sanded pads), put the new shifter linkage in (thank god), and changed the oil. The coolant leak you had was from the lower rad hose... the pipe it was connected to needed to be cleaned up and the hose itself needed to be trimmed because the frame of the car is tweaked. I think it still has a small PS leak. We'll fix that later. Onto the WRX  
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Aug 19, 2011 13:06
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How the heck did you get the old linkage out? I spent quite awhile wailing on that thing. Man, I'm glad to hear that coolant leak was just a stupid hose and I didn't gently caress up the waterpump gasket like I figured I must've; the idea of that really pissed me off after how much time I spent getting it right. Take pics when you do your WRX if you've got the spare patience for it.
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Aug 19, 2011 13:14
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Scott did the following process: Hit with hammer. Torch. Hit with hammer. Torch. Hit with hammer. Torch. Hit with hammer. Torch. Did nothing. So I got underneath it. Given that it's not my car, my process was: BEAT WITH HAMMER BEAT WITH HAMMER BEAT WITH HAMMER BEAT WITH HAMMER BEAT WITH HAMMER BEAT WITH HAMMER ......... *DING* (falls to ground) Only took a minute. Thing drives great so I don't thing I damaged the transmission. I'd never hit a car of value like that We did pull the timing cover, nice and dry in there.
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Aug 19, 2011 13:40
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I picked up my first Subaru a couple of weeks ago! This thing has turned driving from a chore to something I eagerly do for the slightest reason. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10224845/cahh/sm2.jpg http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10224845/cahh/sm3.jpg http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10224845/cahh/sm4.jpg http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10224845/cahh/sm5.jpg The toughest thing is overcoming the urge to take turns as quickly as possible. I'm worried about eating a ticket for exiting a highway cloverleaf at double the limit  .I'm thinking of switching the oil in it to mobil synthetic and doing the changes myself ... Does Subaru get antsy about the warranty in these cases? The dealer has been pretty vague about this. (Edited oil typo.) former glory fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 15:19
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former glory posted:I picked up my first Subaru a couple of weeks ago! This thing has turned driving from a chore to something I eagerly do for the slightest reason. I do my own oil changes in my 2010 hatch. You can note it online via Subaru.com's "My Subaru" page, or you can call the dealer and ask them to make a note in the service history. I wouldn't recommend mobile synthetic from what I've read about it it shears like no other. I've been using the Shell Rotella t6 as have many others. Welcome to the club  , now go get yourself an accessport (and sway bars, and a whittline RCA kit, and a whittline anti-lift kit).VV Though you do need to be able to prove that you've done it don't you? Or is it that they need to prove you haven't? VV allonblack fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 15:40
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former glory posted:I'm thinking of switching the oil in it to mobile synthetic and doing the changes myself ... Does Subaru get antsy about the warranty in these cases? The dealer has been pretty vague about this. It's illegal for Subaru to not honor your warranty for changing your own oil under the The Magnuson-Moss Act.
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Aug 19, 2011 15:43
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That said, you MUST use 5w-30 synthetic. According to the owner's manual addendum for the 2011 model year that's the only type and weight of oil approved for use in the engine. There is no range of "you can use these weights over these temperature ranges." It's 5w30 synthetic only. I wouldn't use Mobile 1. Oil analysis has shown it to perform poorly in our engines. Honestly, I'm just using the "subaru synthetic" until I'm out of warranty. I know it's nothing special, but people haven't seen anything bad in the oil analysis and it's not any more expensive than anything else I would put in there. Bonus is that you have the record of purchase at the dealer, extra documentation is never a bad thing when it comes to warranty claims. When I'm out of warranty, I'll probably go to Rotella T 5w40 like I'm running in my '02.
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Aug 19, 2011 16:23
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allonblack posted:I do my own oil changes in my 2010 hatch. You can note it online via Subaru.com's "My Subaru" page, or you can call the dealer and ask them to make a note in the service history. I wouldn't recommend mobile synthetic from what I've read about it it shears like no other. I've been using the Shell Rotella t6 as have many others. Thanks! I'm definitely going to get an accessport in first to get boost readings and codes at the very least. Blaise, I'm in Canada but I'm going to look into the regulations here. I'm sure a similar thing applies up here. I've noticed the transmission on this thing is very different from my Civic's 5 spd. For instance, in 2nd gear, when slowly driving in a parking lot, the tranny makes a lot of noise when the throttle is off vs. what I'm used to. I haven't driven another STI to judge if this is a potential problem or just the way it is. Do you guys find the 6spd tranny to be noisy in these cases?
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Aug 19, 2011 16:27
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One thing on the oil, I would strongly urge you not to run it to the 7500 miles the owners manual states. 5w-30 loses viscosity pretty quickly, based on the uoa's I've done even 5000 is pushing it. I'm planning on doing 4000 mile changes until I switch from using the official Subaru oil once the warranty is up (same reasons as bull3964)
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Aug 19, 2011 16:47
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former glory posted:I've noticed the transmission on this thing is very different from my Civic's 5 spd. For instance, in 2nd gear, when slowly driving in a parking lot, the tranny makes a lot of noise when the throttle is off vs. what I'm used to. I haven't driven another STI to judge if this is a potential problem or just the way it is. Do you guys find the 6spd tranny to be noisy in these cases? This is because of the location difference. In the fwd civic the tranny is way up front, right below the engine. In the subaru it's pretty much right next to your legs. I notice the same sound difference between my girlfriends jetta and my mustang.
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Aug 19, 2011 17:00
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I'm just keeping to the same 3750 interval that I've used since I got my '02 (which was the original turbo interval before the requirement of synthetic.) I figure double the recommended change interval, documenting my changes, and records of purchase from the dealer should keep me clear of any warranty problems.
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Aug 19, 2011 17:08
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I bought my Outback 3.6 as a weekender car, so it's getting very little mileage - 5.2k since February. I already took it in for the first maintenance at 3750 at the 3 month mark, but now another 3 months have passed and I'm not even close to the maintenance interval. How much should I care about mileage versus time? Which is more important?
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Aug 19, 2011 17:58
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I think it mostly comes down to the quality of the mileage. A car that sees only 50 miles a week, but that mileage comes from two half hour trips is going to see far less oil degradation than a car that's those same 50 miles in small 10 minute trips every other day. It basically comes down to whether or not the car has a chance to warm up fully and drive all the moisture out of the oil before being shut down again.
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Aug 19, 2011 18:33
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bull3964 posted:I think it mostly comes down to the quality of the mileage. ~15 mile commute, 20 minutes per? Normally as a weekender though it's 30-40 mile drives out to other cities.
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Aug 19, 2011 18:40
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former glory posted:
In my 09, 2nd is extremely noisy. I have no idea why - dealer can't explain it either - but I'm just guessing that the gear may be differently cut than the others or something. It's very noticeable, but 40k miles in, I've had no transmission problems whatsoever (and from what I've heard the STi transmissions are basically bulletproof up to 500 lb/ft of torque at the wheels).
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Aug 19, 2011 19:51
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former glory posted:Thanks! I'm definitely going to get an accessport in first to get boost readings and codes at the very least. Blaise, I'm in Canada but I'm going to look into the regulations here. I'm sure a similar thing applies up here. Not really, I had a 08 WRX before this and the 5spd in the WRX is FAR noisier than the STI tranny. It's probably louder than your Civic, but I'd expect that.
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Aug 20, 2011 00:39
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I've had two 5 speeds, and taking my foot off the gas in second gear sounds like there's a bag of angry cats under the car. I do have a ton of bushings swapped which makes it worse, but it was loud stock.
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Aug 20, 2011 01:30
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I sold my 09 STi in March and I've been driving a slow (but cheap and reliable) Jeep since then. I'm itching pretty badly to get back into a quick daily driver Subaru again, only this time not with a 40k price tag. I'm looking to spend less than 20k, preferably around 16k for a reliable daily driver. What I'd really like is an '07-'08 Forester Sports XT 5MT, but apparently every single one is so loved that people just won't let them go. So that means I will most likely be settling on a WRX. I've found plenty '06-'07 WRXs for sale with ~45-50k miles in the $15k range, which is fine I guess. However I've also found some '05-'07 STi's for sale in the same price range with 90,000+ miles. For those who know Subarus better than I, how terrible is the idea of getting a higher mileage STi? Will I be in for a bunch of problems? Synchros on the way out? Headgaskets ready to let loose? I know what to look for when buying these cars as far as mods and signs of abuse, and I would obviously be staying away from even the slightest sign of a modified car. But if I can find a stock '05 STi with like 90k miles, what am I getting myself into? I would be doing simple bolt-ons like downpipe, AP, etc, and the car would likely see track time, but nothing serious. My plan with the Forester/WRX would be to slowly upgrade it with parts scoured from people pawning their stock STi parts until I had something that resembled the performance of an STi. To me it's almost more fun that way, but if I can find an STi for a similar price point, I would go with that instead unless it's a super bad idea.
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Aug 20, 2011 02:07
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