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Guy selling the '09 Tiguan was a douche, so no deal there. My wife said that she didn't want a Jetta after seeing the Tiguan, so I'm on the hunt. Unfortunately, she only wants one with the sunroof, so that narrows the options significantly. There should be some coming off lease, though, so hopefully the hunt won't last too long.
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Aug 18, 2011 15:48
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Corbet posted:It's impossible to find any used GTIs or Golfs around here with under 50,000 miles on them. Not sure where "here" is, but you should buy mine: http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/2499043977.html
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Aug 18, 2011 17:10
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I just had the drivers side axle on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T replaced at a local suspension/brake shop. It was the CV joints that were bad, but the whole axle was way cheaper. Anyway, there's no more clicking in the CV joints, but I noticed that when I load the suspension on that side (by turning right) and accelerating pretty quickly, there is a sort of squealing noise almost like something is rubbing... I had the mechanic drive it and he noticed it but couldn't see any issues. That was at the end of day yesterday, so he said he'll have a look more in-depth today, but I'm thinking it's not something that is going to be noticeable unless the suspension is loaded... Any ideas?
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Aug 18, 2011 17:56
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Kashwashwa posted:I just had the drivers side axle on my 2006 Jetta 2.0T replaced at a local suspension/brake shop. It was the CV joints that were bad, but the whole axle was way cheaper. Make sure they put the fender liner in correctly. I would assume it was removed when they were working on it, and if it is not in correctly it could be rubbing the tire when you turn.
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Aug 18, 2011 18:42
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Is there a TSB out or known issue with the sunroof on 2006-era A4s (so B6 I think)? When shut, and when its warm out, the loving thing creaks as I drive around. I took it in once for this and they replaced some type of "rail" part, but it clearly isn't fixed.
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Aug 19, 2011 19:22
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I'm on another Tiguan - '09, 23k miles. It has the stupid VW tan cloth interior... is this the same craptastic interior that my '01 Jetta had, where it showed EVERY speck of everything that ever touched the fabric? Also, I want to find a vw-specific information forum with a Tiguan subforum. Am I condemned to the 'tex, or is there another option?
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Aug 19, 2011 22:38
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A friend of mine just paid $6,000 cash for a '98 Jetta TDI with 140,000 miles on it. Is he insane for dropping that much money on a 13 year old car with nearly 150k on it, or do TDIs handle mileage better than a gas-powered car? I should add its in amazing shape for a car that's spent its entire life in NE Ohio and he's a professional diesel mechanic.
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Aug 20, 2011 04:22
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I drive a '98 Jetta TDI. I payed $5000 for it in 2005 with 100k miles. Of course I could have sold it for a few thousand dollars more than that when gas prices spiked like a year later. TDI's do hold their value really well, but $6,000 is too much.
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Aug 20, 2011 04:48
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$6k is a lot for a 98. The only ones worth that much from the 90s are the B4 wagons and for 6k it should be pretty minty with a maintenance history.
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Aug 20, 2011 13:37
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Billy Tully posted:$6k is a lot for a 98. The only ones worth that much from the 90s are the B4 wagons and for 6k it should be pretty minty with a maintenance history. He did say the dealer told him that the PO had immaculate records kept, guess he was supposed to be a machinist (apparently that means machinists are stereotypically more likely to keep maintenance records...?) I don't know if they actually had said records or if they were just blowing smoke up his rear end. There wasn't any visible rust, like I said it was in amazing shape for having spent 13 years in the snow belt. I know it has at least one problem - a CEL pointing to a vacuum leak in the power door/trunk release system, apparently by the late 90s VW was still using vacuum-actuated power locks and trunk releases. This is a big deal because Ohio's "e-check" system automatically fails any car that has an illuminated CEL. He is a professional diesel mechanic so I guess he's can probably handle whatever it throws at him but I'm still a bit  on $6k for a 13 year old car.
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Aug 21, 2011 07:34
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I feel like I've been doing a lot of homework and so I'm fairly confident in buying a new Golf. However, I'd like to briefly ask before I made any final decisions. Given that I will be buying a 4-door automatic and have a supplier discount which allows me to buy at invoice price (which is NOT applicable to the TDI) When compared to the Golf, Does a TDI retain enough resale value to justify the higher cost if I plan to sell/trade within 3-5 years? Over 5 years? Same question with GTI. I'm asking purely from a financial point of view. I did some numbers and at ~15000 miles per year and $4/gallon, the TDI would save me roughly $500/year. I am thinking that, no, the TDI/GTI does not depreciate at such a significantly lower rate when compared to the Golf that I should buy them. Should I reconsider?
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Aug 21, 2011 21:19
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totalnewbie posted:Should I reconsider? If you're not going to buy a TDI and then cling to it like death until the wheels fall off I'd look at buying a lightly used (~2 years old, <30,000 miles) model and let someone else take the hit in depreciation on its value.
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Aug 21, 2011 21:21
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totalnewbie posted:I feel like I've been doing a lot of homework and so I'm fairly confident in buying a new Golf. However, I'd like to briefly ask before I made any final decisions. http://web.vw.com/templates/Service?serviceName=vwoffers&zipcode=12121 You can click on the offers to see the residual value at 3 years. Basically a GTI will cost you a thousand or so more in depreciation over 3 years, so it will be more expensive. Another way to look at it however would be a GTI actually only costs a couple thousand more to own over 3 years instead of the ~$6k more it costs than the Golf at MSRP.
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Aug 21, 2011 21:31
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Ahh I had forgotten about Edmund's TCO tool. Looks like the TDI is not a bad choice. About 2500 more over 5 years according to Edmund's if I take out the financing from both. So I guess if I were able to throw down a bit more right now and didn't have the supplier discount I would strongly consider the TDI. I can also see why people are so enamored with leases. Drive a GTI for 2200 now and under 300/mo? Awesome! ...and then you realize that you then have to fork over another 14k if you don't want to be out of a car, you can only drive 36k miles without paying out the rear end, that's only a 2 door base model, blah blah blah and man leases gently caress you hard. In the 5 minutes I spent perusing the mk6 forums, I saw so many people talking about leasing a GTI. Thank god for SA and educating me about bad decisions. Best  Thanks, I'm feeling a lot better about going with the Golf. I'm glad you guys are here to counteract that slick sales guy's attempt to talk me into getting a TDI/GTI.Geoj posted:If you're not going to buy a TDI and then cling to it like death until the wheels fall off I'd look at buying a lightly used (~2 years old, <30,000 miles) model and let someone else take the hit in depreciation on its value. Yeah I'd look at used but TDIs are only 10-11MY and the savings on a used Golf are not worth it, to me, of buying it used. I know I'm taking a bigger hit buying it new but I think that's a hit I'm willing to take right now. If I were super concerned about money right now, I'd buy a 8-10 year old car and drive that for a while. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 22:52
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totalnewbie posted:Ahh I had forgotten about Edmund's TCO tool. Looks like the TDI is not a bad choice. About 2500 more over 5 years according to Edmund's if I take out the financing from both. Nope, a lease is actually a much better deal and I would suggest you lease the car. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=5#post368677717
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Aug 21, 2011 22:59
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totalnewbie posted:Yeah I'd look at used but TDIs are only 10-11MY and the savings on a used Golf are not worth it, to me, of buying it used. No, what I'm saying is if you're not going to buy the TDI then don't buy brand new. I'm of the opinion that with TDIs buying new is really the only way to go, because the only ones you find used have a ton of miles, are mechanically hosed or the seller wants way too much for it (or a combination of the three) - see my posts above about a friend who bought a '98 Jetta for $6k.
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Aug 21, 2011 23:07
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Throatwarbler posted:Nope, a lease is actually a much better deal and I would suggest you lease the car. I'm paying cash so that lease on the car (over 24k to buy for the very base model) is already more expensive than my 4-door automatic. But thanks for the information. Geoj posted:No, what I'm saying is if you're not going to buy the TDI then don't buy brand new. I'm of the opinion that with TDIs buying new is really the only way to go, because the only ones you find used have a ton of miles, are mechanically hosed or the seller wants way too much for it (or a combination of the three) - see my posts above about a friend who bought a '98 Jetta for $6k. There are some 2010 2-door automatics over 200 miles away for 16-17k. A 2011 Golf is 21300. I could save a few thousand but then I don't know the car's history, etc. I'm pretty short on time so I'm not really sure if it's plausible for me to go that far for a car. I can't even really take days off because I just started working here this week. I think you're right that I should probably buy a used one and the time thing is really sort of an excuse but I feel like it's not really an option for me and between new job, moving, etc. I guess I'm okay with eating 5k for the convenience. Thanks a lot, though. Okay, there's one for 17 close to me but now I'm really just going to make excuses and bite the bullet on a new one. I know it's money down the drain but it's good to know beforehand rather than feel like I've made a mistake (I guess making a mistake knowingly is better than unknowingly?) totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 23:35
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movax posted:Is there a TSB out or known issue with the sunroof on 2006-era A4s (so B6 I think)? When shut, and when its warm out, the loving thing creaks as I drive around. I took it in once for this and they replaced some type of "rail" part, but it clearly isn't fixed. There's a TSB for sunroof squeaks on A4/Avant. Application of a special rubber lubricant to seals is supposed to solve the problem.
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Aug 22, 2011 00:14
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my1999gsr posted:There's a TSB for sunroof squeaks on A4/Avant. Application of a special rubber lubricant to seals is supposed to solve the problem. "Open part number 94-4004-303 and insert cork overlays between rubber and metal."
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Aug 22, 2011 00:40
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Anyone know anything about problems with hesitation on recent TDIs? My co-worker and his wife bought a 2011 Golf TDI and occasionally it has what he describes as a kind of hesitation or bogging down in the engine that resolves after a little while. He's quite car-competent and does most of his own work, but this one is a little mystifying. They took it to the dealer and the dealer reportedly performed some sort of firmware upgrade, but I don't think that resolved the problem for him. Anyone experienced this with their TDI or know what the root cause is, and whether or not it's innocuous?
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Aug 22, 2011 03:44
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chutwig posted:Anyone know anything about problems with hesitation on recent TDIs? My co-worker and his wife bought a 2011 Golf TDI and occasionally it has what he describes as a kind of hesitation or bogging down in the engine that resolves after a little while. He's quite car-competent and does most of his own work, but this one is a little mystifying. They took it to the dealer and the dealer reportedly performed some sort of firmware upgrade, but I don't think that resolved the problem for him. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=228411 If it's around 2k and feels like a hiccup then it's pretty common.
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Aug 22, 2011 03:46
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Geoj posted:No, what I'm saying is if you're not going to buy the TDI then don't buy brand new. I'm of the opinion that with TDIs buying new is really the only way to go, because the only ones you find used have a ton of miles, are mechanically hosed or the seller wants way too much for it (or a combination of the three) - see my posts above about a friend who bought a '98 Jetta for $6k. Funny you should mention this. I just bought a 2011 golf tdi, for invoice  Dealership gave me 2.5% interest through Wells Fargo. I just got the drat car back this morning. It cost the dealership around 2200 bucks to have the custom stereo moved from my tradein to the new car I knew I wouldn't get as much for my GLI trading it is as I would have selling it, but when he offered to cover the cost of the stereo swap, I couldn't resist. BTW, loving the TDI so far.
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Aug 22, 2011 18:44
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veedubfreak posted:Funny you should mention this. I just bought a 2011 golf tdi, for invoice Thats a bit steep. The Dynaudio is actually a really good stock system.
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Aug 22, 2011 19:47
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What kind of crazy stereo costs 2200 bucks to swap? A lot of custom kick panels or something?
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Aug 22, 2011 19:57
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Just brought my car ('10 GTI) in for the 30k service. Stealership said that my brakepads were down about 80% and I would probably need them replaced at my next service (40k). How much is this going to run me (I stupidly forgot to ask, but I'm guessing an astronomical amount)? Should I just bring it somewhere else to do it? Is it easy to do myself?
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Aug 22, 2011 20:22
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Lowclock posted:What kind of crazy stereo costs 2200 bucks to swap? A lot of custom kick panels or something? Even if they were charging $100 an hour that's 22 man hours, holy crap.
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Aug 22, 2011 20:27
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The TDI is significantly faster than the regular Golf. It's not just the mileage and resale value. It actually has the same 0-40 as the GTI if not a bit faster. Past 60 mph, GTI passes, but you really can't compare the regular golf to the TDI and just look at the financials. TDI is much more fun to drive. I bought mine (2011 in end of July) for 500 below invoice btw, and I love it so far Pinkied_Brain fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 22, 2011 22:51
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Billy Tully posted:Even if they were charging $100 an hour that's 22 man hours, holy crap. That includes stuff like the wiring, adapters etc. They replaced the head unit, all mids and highs, custom sub enclosure that fits in the wheelwell. Also, the car came with the normal stereo, not the dynaudio.
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Aug 22, 2011 23:29
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My 2008 Rabbit (2-door, manual, 27k miles) is being weird! So, I asked my boyfriend to move it to the other side of the street for me (street cleaning time!). Since he hates carrying around the giant fob, he uses the valet key. Puts it in, door unlocks (not all the doors, just the driver door), hops in, alarm goes off. Alarm is silenced by putting the key in the ignition and starting the car, he drives it over to the other side of the street, parks it, and turns the key to lock the door. No alarm-arm chirp sounds. A little while later, I get home, and check it out. I'm able to arm/disarm the alarm with the keyfob, but not directly in the door. Unlocking the door only fires the mechanical lock - the alarm armed indicator on the door continues to blink. Also, the cool hold-key-in-position-to-roll-windows-up/down feature isn't working either. Holding the key at Lock will make the car chirp as if i'm arming it multiple times in a row. Any ideas before I call up my friendly local VW dealer for warranty service? (And who's the preferred dealer in Chicago for this stuff?)
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Aug 23, 2011 01:33
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I'm seriously considering purchasing a 2012 S4 (99.5% there, walked out yesterday on the deal to get some more yanked off of price and am now at a point where I'm happy with the deal). I've driven the 335, the 135, the M3, the ISF, and the S5. The S4 interior is leaps and bounds above all others (with the exception of the S5 to which it is identical, however ->) and the supercharger is tons of fun especially with the APR/Stasis flash for 400+ hp. Number of questions: * Any issues I should be aware of with this car? The audi forums don't see to have the same audience that the BMW forums have so tracking down any factory issues or any issues with the car seems to be difficult. * I've read some anecdotal comments that Stasis is: The Devil, Everything that's wrong in the world, and refuses to honor warranty issues. Is there any truth behind this? * It seems that the Stasis flash is actually the APR flash, I have a local supplier for that here in PDX should I just stick with that? * Is the APR detectible by the dealership? I know it has various modes, or will soon one of which seems to be an off mode. * How is APR for reliability? Do I even need to worry about it? I know they've been tuning Audi's and VW's for a long long time so I suspect that their expertise contributes to safe and viable tunes. * Is the S4 the wrong car to buy at this price point? It seems like with the flash at 400+ hp it's ideal, particularly given how cheap and lovely the BMW M3 interior seems in comparison. I know it's not going to be the track beast that the M3 is, but frankly I'm not certain that matters as I do track days for fun and the S4 seems like it would be plenty of fun. * How realistic is the 26mpg highway rating? I read back a few pages and it sounds like the APR flash doesn't adversely effect mileage, which would be nice compared to my 2010 STI where I may as well be pumping gas into the drain. PoopinClumpin, how do you like yours? Anything nagging you wish you could change?
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Aug 23, 2011 03:05
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How do you folks feel about a 2003 2.0L 5-speed Jetta (wagon) with 90k on it? Dependable? Dare I say: reliable? I've been looking at mid-1990s Volvos but I've heard good things about the later 2 liter VW cars. Keep in mind I know nothing about VWs. A car built in the past 10 years for a few hundred more than I was originally willing to spend sounds pretty enticing, though.
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Aug 23, 2011 05:17
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allonblack posted:* How realistic is the 26mpg highway rating? I read back a few pages and it sounds like the APR flash doesn't adversely effect mileage, which would be nice compared to my 2010 STI where I may as well be pumping gas into the drain. I really can't comment on the rest, but I've got a 2011 A4 and the mileage I get is pretty much what it is rated at. Most of the time on the highway I'm cruising at 110-120km/hr+ and I get a little over 29mpg consistently. I went down to Seattle and back from Edmonton, with cruise pegged at about 15km over the limit the whole way, uphill, downhill with the occasional jaunt to pass someone and I averaged just under 30mpg for the whole trip. I expect the S4 would be similar with its ratings.
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Aug 23, 2011 17:40
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Tech question for my 97 jetta 2.0. Last night drove to a friends house after work (about 15 minutes), car was running fine. Parked, turned off, took 2 minutes to run to his door and grab the tool I was borrowing (a brake bleeding kit) got back in the car, restarted and the brake pedal went straight to the floor with basically no resistance. Turned the car off, pumped the pedal once or twice and the brake pedal was completely solid but as soon as I turn the car on it goes right back to the floor. Based on this I'm guessing its not the master cylinder, maybe the booster cylinder? The brake fluid level in the fill tank is at 1/2 to 2/3 between min and max, right where it was when I got the car. Any ideas of what else to check for diagnosis or what it might be, I wasn't able to bring up any solutions to this same set of symptoms with Google.
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Aug 23, 2011 18:18
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MadMax posted:Tech question for my 97 jetta 2.0. Last night drove to a friends house after work (about 15 minutes), car was running fine. Parked, turned off, took 2 minutes to run to his door and grab the tool I was borrowing (a brake bleeding kit) got back in the car, restarted and the brake pedal went straight to the floor with basically no resistance. Turned the car off, pumped the pedal once or twice and the brake pedal was completely solid but as soon as I turn the car on it goes right back to the floor. Based on this I'm guessing its not the master cylinder, maybe the booster cylinder? The brake fluid level in the fill tank is at 1/2 to 2/3 between min and max, right where it was when I got the car. Any ideas of what else to check for diagnosis or what it might be, I wasn't able to bring up any solutions to this same set of symptoms with Google. Sounds like you lost a brake line, look under the car and check for fluid squirting out/leaking when you push the pedal down.
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Aug 23, 2011 18:44
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allonblack posted:I'm seriously considering purchasing a 2012 S4 (99.5% there, walked out yesterday on the deal to get some more yanked off of price and am now at a point where I'm happy with the deal). I've got an S4 on order and have been haunting AudiZine and AudiWorld to pick up information. My impression is that the APR tune is far better because you can get the code switching. If you lock it in stock mode your dealer could conceivably detect it but would have to go way out of their way to do so. That's slightly less true on a 6MT, where you have to really wrench on it just to get to the chip.
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Aug 23, 2011 20:30
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minivanmegafun posted:My 2008 Rabbit (2-door, manual, 27k miles) is being weird! I had the same problem with my '08 GTI. I ended up taking it in the dealership while the car was under warranty. They ended up replacing the entire door lock; I believe the mechanic said there was a TSB about it. So if the dealership's close, you could swing by and see if there's any TSBs for door lock issues. I think the locks just wear out after repeated use. If the car's out of warranty, you might want to just open and close with the fob (batteries for that would probably be cheaper than having the lock repaired)
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Aug 23, 2011 20:52
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Hopefully you guys can help me with this issue I'm having with my 98 Jetta GL. Yesterday when I got out of the car and locked it to walk to work, I heard my (aftermarket for 8 years) radio come back on when I was a few steps away. I went back and, sure enough, it was on like the key was still in the ignition. The door chime also went off when I opened the door back up, indicating that the problem isn't just with the radio. I got back in the car, put the key in, turned it on one click and then back off, removed the key, and it stopped. I thought it was just a weird hiccup until I drove home from work. I pulled the key and the radio never missed a beat and just stayed on. When I would click it on and off, the radio would turn off for a second or two, then come back on of its own volition. After a lot of frustrated trying, I was able to get it to stay off by trying to pull the key out with it very slightly turned forward. I waited in the car for a full minute, and it didn't come back on. To be sure, I popped the faceplate off. When I got in the car this morning, however, the door chimes played when I opened the door, indicating that the electrical system had become active again sometime in the night. Now, as a little background, last year I had to take it in and have the ignition cylinder replaced. The guys who did that put the steering column casing back on improperly, so a month or two later, the plastic bolts that hold it in place sheared off. Now my column is completely exposed. I'm thinking the cylinder is the problem again, but is there any chance that having all those wires and such exposed caused it?
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Aug 24, 2011 15:39
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This doesnt really fit anywhere I guess, I'd assume that if I buy an A5 they would have no problem putting a lexus paint color on it? e: I hate the stock colors on Audis, I would never get any of them e2: There is also a Honda color I like
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Aug 24, 2011 19:07
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mitztronic posted:This doesnt really fit anywhere I guess, I'd assume that if I buy an A5 they would have no problem putting a lexus paint color on it? Who is "they"? Are you talking about buying new and having it custom-painted from the factory or used and having a body shop respray the car? The biggest problem with changing the color of a car is if you don't do it correctly (mainly, respraying every visible surface including door sills and the engine bay) it kills resale value and can cause headaches if you don't have the change reflected on your title (unless you respray it something very close to the original color.)
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Aug 24, 2011 19:13
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Geoj posted:Who is "they"? Are you talking about buying new and having it custom-painted from the factory or used and having a body shop respray the car? I was hoping that the factory could do colors outside their stock. I would rather get a color I kind of don't like than do it through a 3rd party shop Looking at them next to each other is making me feel kind of stupid, but I really like the lexus color  Lexus: Smoky Granite Mica  Audi: Monsoon Grey Metallic 
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Aug 24, 2011 22:10
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