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Zeta Taskforce posted:When you said you spent $4000, I assumed you meant the payment. Will you not be making another $4000 in payments? It is a rare used car that needs so much work that it equals a car payment. I've paid $4000 on the car and still owe $9500. So basically I paid $2000 a year to drive the car. I was bummed because it seems I will be lucky to just break even selling the car. Which, selling it really makes a lot of sense to do. It's really too much car for me anyway. Before this car, I had a Camry for 7 years that a known oil sludge problem caused the engine to throw a rod. It had to get a whole new engine. Toyota was aware of the problem, but I had no warranty on it apparently because I got it from a used car lot. I got the Altima instead. I have a hard time believing there aren't whole used car lots full of cars ready to cost you thousands in repairs in a few months. My family has all had cars like that.
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Aug 16, 2011 21:34
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I don't understand how driving an old car is embarrassing. I drive around the same old dented econo-box that I did in college and am totally happy to continue doing so until the thing falls apart. Anywho, I know this is just anecdotal, but I've never had to do anything but regular maintenance on my car, and it's a Ford Escort; so it's not top-of-the-line or anything.
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Aug 16, 2011 21:37
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facey fred posted:I don't understand how driving an old car is embarrassing. I drive around the same old dented econo-box that I did in college and am totally happy to continue doing so until the thing falls apart. Because lol poor Now I'm single driving a date around in a car with blue smoke coming out of the exhaust and 2 hubcaps. Male pride thingy. But I'd like to afford to live so I have to suck it up.
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Aug 16, 2011 21:41
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My grandpa used to say that no one ever got rich by painting their house. A really young guy driving around a really nice car means either 1) he's living off of his parents 2) he's one of those one-in-a-million super smart rich guys who has made more money than God off of his genius and will continue to make money forever or 3) he's poor and he just doesn't know it yet. And a girl only gets to date #2 in movies. Though I will say there is a large avenue of happy medium between "car with two hubcaps" and "car that costs 13K".
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Aug 16, 2011 21:54
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Cheap cars are an awesome way to save money. We just paid cash for a used Civic that has massive hail damage. It was SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper, and it runs great. Check into damaged cars, but make sure they are thoroughly inspected first.
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Aug 16, 2011 22:03
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RedMonkey, do you really want a girl who only will date a guy with a nice car? Are you that shallow (are the girls your looking for that shallow)? Are you 16? I just typed up a huge post with a bunch of math about what a bad investment your car is, but hopefully you know that. Being young and driving a poo poo box is fine. Just keep what ever you have clean and the ladies won't mind if it's a '99 with 150k miles. It shows your responsible.
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Aug 16, 2011 23:53
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Sophia posted:My grandpa used to say that no one ever got rich by painting their house. A really young guy driving around a really nice car means either 1) he's living off of his parents 2) he's one of those one-in-a-million super smart rich guys who has made more money than God off of his genius and will continue to make money forever or 3) he's poor and he just doesn't know it yet. And a girl only gets to date #2 in movies. 13k is hardly a really expensive car. "Really nice" or "really expensive" car to me is more like 50k+. If you're in college or working a retail job, yeah you probably shouldn't be spending anywhere near 13k on a car. That said, almost anyone with a decent professional-ish job and well-managed finances can afford a 13k car pretty easily. Don't get me wrong, I know 13k is more than a lot of people can afford/want to spend on a car, but it's really not a very large amount of money for a car that you will use a lot and spend a lot of time in (or, god forbid, even derive pleasure from driving). I've had my share of ~5k cars and they were well-above the "car with two hubcaps" description and were great cars. If that's all you're looking for, great, do it, it's a great plan. But 13k can get you some pretty drat nice 4-7 year old cars on the used market that still look and drive like new. People think that anyone driving around in a Mercedes, BMW, Lexus, Audi, etc. are all rich pricks (or pretending to be), but a whole lot of people driving them (myself included) buy them several years used in the 10-20k range - less than half of the selling price when new. On the used market, they aren't even that much more expensive than a similar year/condition Honda or Toyota, especially given the retarded used car market right now. You get so much more car for the dollar. Yeah, they'll cost a bit more to maintain, but if we're talking about saving money you aren't actually taking your car to a dealership, right? Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 00:58
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Guinness posted:13k is hardly a really expensive car. "Really nice" or "really expensive" car to me is more like 50k+. If you're in college or working a retail job, yeah you probably shouldn't be spending anywhere near 13k on a car. That said, almost anyone with a decent professional-ish job and well-managed finances can afford a 13k car pretty easily. The thing of it is, $13k is not unreasonable to spend for a car (I actually paid, oddly enough, the same for my car). On the other hand, I did not finance my car out over 5 years @ 11% interest. The thing people are concerned with and point out here is that if you can't afford to pay cash or minimally finance a car, it's not much different spending 50k or 15k on a car. 5 years at 11% interest is drat near double money. People would be making the same statements if it was 11% in CC debt. The difference is that with CC debt, the bank doesn't have collateral. The bank charged him 11% because he was a high risk. The thing about interest rates, they tend to be lower for smarter financial decisions  . The lower the interest rate, the lower the risk, the more likely it is to work out. 
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Aug 17, 2011 01:54
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Totally fair point, and I agree: if you can't afford to pay in cash, you can't afford it - even if you are going to finance part of it. I would never, ever recommend financing a car if you can't get an interest rate below 4-5% - and even that is on the high end, especially for new/near-new cars. If your credit isn't good enough to get a good low rate, then definitely stick to cash-only. A car is already a depreciating asset, and getting raped on a high-interest loan only multiplies the pain. Getting upside down on a car is a lovely place to be for a variety of reasons.
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Aug 17, 2011 02:28
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Guinness posted:13k is hardly a really expensive car. "Really nice" or "really expensive" car to me is more like 50k+. If you're in college or working a retail job, yeah you probably shouldn't be spending anywhere near 13k on a car. That said, almost anyone with a decent professional-ish job and well-managed finances can afford a 13k car pretty easily. Yeah, sorry, I kind of switched topics in my post without telling anyone. The first part is just about how status cars can actually send the wrong message to people. The second part was just talking to the poster specifically about how he'd created a false dichotomy between his current $13K car and a car that is so terrible that he would cringe to look at it. Though I personally probably wouldn't be able to afford a 13K car easily at this point since I don't believe in taking out car loans unless there is no other choice. 
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Aug 17, 2011 06:11
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I've also seen guys who have very flashy cars, yet are incredibly stingy when it comes to dinner/drinks and other activities. It's incredibly obvious you are posing when you won't tip the valet and hop into a lexus. Or you really do have the money and you're just a cheap jerk. Either way, it's bad.
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Aug 17, 2011 18:17
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Whats the best way to get 5-6k ish loan for a used car+funds for repair? as in, really used, about 20 years old. All the bank websites I looked at had a max of 7 years old for used car loans, and I'd have to get a "Personal" loan at like a 10% interest rate. I haven't actually went to a bank yet to talk to someone, but I think I have decent credit, no debt right now, and Ive had accounts with Citibank for like 10 years now, if that helps at all. Is there anywhere I can go for something thats not 10% interest? Saint Celestine fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 04:33
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Buying a 20 year old car with a loan is a really bad idea. The mantra "if you can't pay cash you can't afford it" is especially true on cars that old. There are many (good) reasons why financial institutions won't write a loan on cars that old, or will but will give you an astronomical interest rate. Don't get me wrong, old cars are rad, especially if you're willing to put your own blood, sweat, and tears into it. But if you can't afford to buy and maintain one out of pocket... well, that isn't going to end well. Doubly so since the only kind of 20 year old cars worth 5k+ tend to be rare, European, and/or sports cars (i.e., above-average cost to maintain). Edit: If you absolutely must make a bad decision, you'd be much better off with a personal loan instead of an auto loan for an amount that small. The interest rate still won't be great, but the car won't be the collateral. Plus, with an auto loan you're typically required to carry comprehensive and collision insurance which is pretty dumb on a car only about 5k or less. Guinness fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 05:40
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I can easily afford it, its just that the seller wants to sell it right now, and I can only wait like a week at most. To pay off $5k, it would only take me like 3 months ish. I can afford it, I just dont have a lump sum of 5k sitting around.
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Aug 18, 2011 15:34
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I currently get 4% APY on my checking account up to 25k through a CU and am looking to buy a ~20k car. I am pre-approved on a car loan for between 2.74-3.24% (APR I presume) (depending on whether the car is green or not, which it should be) through one bank. I have enough money to plunk down cash for the whole thing but it seems to me that I would be better served holding onto my money since the 10k will be earning more interest than I'm losing on the loan (I know APY =/= APR). Am I correct in my assesment or did I miss something? It's just such a weird thing to say that I'm better off taking a loan than not that I can't help but feel like I'm missing something. (There's no fees to my CU or anything like that, either.) Somewhat related: I just started a new job (this week). As I understand it, it is benefitial to open a Roth IRA account (if only with a pittance amount) ASAP and my maximum contribution to it this year is $5000. Should I keep the money in my checking account (as long as it's below 25k and earning 4%) or should I [take the loan] and put 5k into my Roth IRA? (I don't have/can't open a 401K yet.) totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 17:42
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Saint Celestine posted:I can easily afford it, its just that the seller wants to sell it right now, and I can only wait like a week at most. To pay off $5k, it would only take me like 3 months ish. What kind of 20 year old car costs $5K? Are you looking at a Jaguar or something like that? A quick look at my local craigslist listings between $4000 and $5000 shows mostly 1999 to 2003 with a smattering of 2004's. totalnewbie posted:I currently get 4% APY on my checking account up to 25k through a CU and am looking to buy a ~20k car. If you have the money, I would just pay cash for the car. 4% is great on a checking acct. I know those accounts are out there if you jump through a few hoops, like have direct deposit, use your debit card so many times a month, sign up for bill pay, etc, but its more than worth it if you have a few thousand dollars. That said, the amount of extra money you would make is minuscule, especially considering that assuming you are in the 25% tax bracket, now you are only earning 3%, and that's before your state taxes it.
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Aug 18, 2011 19:04
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Thanks. The hoops I have to jump through aren't a lot (although that bank doesn't play nice with mint.com which is sad but not a big hassle) so the 4% is guaranteed (though it's a good point that it's only extra money if I'm jumping through the hoops each and every month). It's also a good point about the fact that that income is taxed, which I hadn't thought about, thanks. Is it taxed the same as federal income, then? I should know, but this is my first time really earning income in the US so  . So then I guess between fed. income tax (puts me at 3%) and state income tax (puts me at below 3%) I'm either losing money with the loan or not making enough to really merit having a loan.Are there other benefits to having the loan? I only ask this because when I applied, the loan officer said that my credit score is great but I have virtually no credit history. Can I simply use a CC and pay it off every month to establish a better credit history or is a loan of some type more "effective"? I'm guessing the former but I figure I'd ask. Finally, I wonder if I can convince a bank/dealer to give me 0% financing for a short while, say, 12/36 months. In that case, if I take the 0% financing and pay off the balance at the end of the 12 months, I won't be charged interest, right? Not that I think anyone will offer me 0% since I have a piece of paper that ensures I get invoice price. Or maybe they will, since that might give me incentive to buy it from them instead of some other guy for the same price... HMMM. Anyway, thanks a lot for the advice.
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Aug 18, 2011 19:46
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Saint Celestine posted:I can easily afford it, its just that the seller wants to sell it right now, and I can only wait like a week at most. To pay off $5k, it would only take me like 3 months ish. I'm not trying to be an rear end, but you can't actually afford it if you don't have the $5k. Take the few months, save up the money, and then see what your options are. Or pay an exorbitant interest rate; you know, whichever.
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Aug 19, 2011 00:45
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Saint Celestine posted:I can afford it, I just dont have a lump sum of 5k sitting around. Why not? Assuming you've worked longer than 3 months and every 3 months you have saved up $5k+ interest, where has this money been disappearing to?
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Aug 19, 2011 00:58
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Because I graduated last year, been at my job for less than a year, and during that time, paid of all my student loans, so now I came across a really good deal for a used car that will last a long time, and I don't have the money sitting around. But whatevs, I just applied for an unsecured personal loan at 10% that Ill just pay off in 3 months instead of the 36 months that it runs. Saint Celestine fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 01:38
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What are you buying? Is it some AMAZING Deal that you can't find another one in 3 months when you do have the cash? I know now is always better than later but what are we talking about here? What $5,000 1991 car are we talking about? Edit: E;f;b; 3 months at 10% is about $125. That won't kill you. Also if you make it in 3 equal payments along that time, it will be even less.
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Aug 19, 2011 01:41
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KennyG posted:What are you buying? Is it some AMAZING Deal that you can't find another one in 3 months when you do have the cash? I know now is always better than later but what are we talking about here? If you must know, I found a 93 Volvo 240 with ridiculously low mileage for its age since some Grandma used it for Sunday driving only, and its about 3grand, but I wanted to upgrade my computer while I'm at it. But its ok, since 240s last loving forever. Edit: Also, Hi KennyG. I remember you from Purdue. Saint Celestine fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 01:46
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Bulldozer is coming out soon (mid Sept). Also, a good computer shouldn't run you more than 1000 or so.
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Aug 19, 2011 01:48
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Saint Celestine posted:If you must know, I found a 93 Volvo 240 with ridiculously low mileage for its age since some Grandma used it for Sunday driving only, and its about 3grand, but I wanted to upgrade my computer while I'm at it. But its ok, since 240s last loving forever. That's me... as I was not at Purdue pre-Dec 17, 2008... who are you?
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Aug 19, 2011 03:57
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kaishek posted:Call 1- 888-270-2127, which should be Chase's reconsideration line. Ask them what, specifically, they see on your TransUnion report and tell them that you're looking at it and don't know what they're talking about. They should reconsider the application. I know it's a been awhile but I wanted to follow up with this. Thanks so much for giving me that number. Turns out the person who entered in my social security number had one digit wrong so it was showing someone else with a delinquency with their bank. Anyway, I got approved.
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Aug 20, 2011 19:11
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I can't thank you all enough for illuminating my situation so well. I'm going to sell my car when I get my extra student loan money back and then buy something older outright. My favorite car ever owning was a 1992 Honda Prelude SI. Someone local has a '91 in a pretty good shape asking $2k for it. I'm sure I can probably even get it for less. Those cars are awesome. I didn't realize what a huge sense of relief I would feel with this decision. I'm also selling my VZW phone. I can sell it for enough to pay the ETF they charge and have enough leftover to buy a phone for Boost Mobile. I'll be paying $20 less per month on my cell phone bill. Every 6 months they knock off $5/mo, too. So in 18 months I'll be paying $35/mo. You can flash any phone from Sprint onto Boost, too. That's another huge relief. Next I'll look into reducing my medical/dental from $221/mo :O Thanks again to everyone for helping me out.
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Aug 21, 2011 05:01
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Red Monkey posted:My favorite car ever owning was a 1992 Honda Prelude SI. Someone local has a '91 in a pretty good shape asking $2k for it. I'm sure I can probably even get it for less. Those cars are awesome. I didn't realize what a huge sense of relief I would feel with this decision. I'm so sorry to keep making your life worse, but don't think spending $2000 on a 20 year old car is the wisest use of your money. I'm thinking $2000 for a grandma car, like a 2001 Buick that was actually driven by a grandma. You're broke, you don't get to drive sports cars. And all 20 year old cars break down often.
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Aug 21, 2011 17:35
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I believe the secret winning at car ownership is knowing how to work on cars. I don't mean just changing the oil and burnt out lights. Rebuilding various components, troubleshooting problems, and getting your hands dirty. The money it has saved me and the cars it has allowed me to drive make up for the small investment in tools and time. I bought a 1990 Miata for $1700 cash in perfect condition. Perfect paint, top and good interior. It proved to be so reliable I sold my 2007 GTi and have daily driven it for a year now. It has broken down a total of zero times and has 184,000 miles. Aside from the "lol guy in a miata" factor it's not shameful in the slightest to drive. Picking up a date might not have the new car factor the GTi had but they never seem to mind and the first thing always said is "lets put the top down!"
Blackdawgg fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 20:46
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I'm so sorry to keep making your life worse, but don't think spending $2000 on a 20 year old car is the wisest use of your money. I'm thinking $2000 for a grandma car, like a 2001 Buick that was actually driven by a grandma. You're broke, you don't get to drive sports cars. And all 20 year old cars break down often. Aight, I'm trying to work with you here on this. I don't consider it to be a sports car, I consider it be a Honda. Honda's last a looong time. If it were an Accord, would you think this? If the car runs, cheap to repair, doesn't it really matter if it fits the definition of sports car? A grandma could have a car on the verge of collapse, while a Prelude (sports car) could have been driven by someone who babied it. I feel like buying an old car is a risk no matter. But I took your advice about even if it does break down, go buy another.
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Aug 22, 2011 02:22
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I learned to drive stick in a Prelude when I was 12 years old. Anyway, Red Monkey, I'd recommend taking your car questions to the AI thread in here or to AI proper - they are super helpful about cars.
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Aug 22, 2011 06:30
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So... what's the deal with depositing foreign checks? I have a check for £7,100.34. According to a variety of internet sources, the exchange rate from USD to GBP is around 1.65. That'd make my check worth $11,693.05. When I went to Bank of America to deposit it, they gave me an exchange rate of I think 1.56, and the amount would be around $11,100. This is a significant difference. I tried calling their customer service line and they don't have access to the exchange rates used, and the teller at the bank didn't know why there would be a discrepancy either. It doesn't seem to be official fees- they just use a lower rate and feed you a line about it changing every moment (which it does, of course, but it doesn't suddenly drop 10 cents between my google and their calculator, nor does it jump 10 cents going the other way.). Based on this blog post and a couple other google results, this is not unusual. They simply don't tell their tellers or customer service people about the hidden fee. I tried calling my other bank (ING Direct) but they won't accept foreign checks. I called the credit union on my campus and asked how they do it, and they send it to Members United, who send it back to the issuing bank, who finally decide the rate. I guess I will try calling BoA again and having a tantrum, and if that doesn't work, I may open up an account with my credit union and do it through them, since it seems like the best option, and since BoA is manifestly evil anyway. I don't really have a question; I just wanted to tell someone about my adventures, I guess. If anyone has an easier suggestion than opening up a different bank account, I'd love to hear it.
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Aug 22, 2011 18:24
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Eggplant Wizard posted:So... what's the deal with depositing foreign checks? Cash it for actual currency and then exchange the currancy at a place that won't gently caress you on the exchange rate...I don't know if that is possible, but I did actually do this with Yen before.
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Aug 22, 2011 19:18
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Eggplant Wizard posted:I don't really have a question; I just wanted to tell someone about my adventures, I guess. If anyone has an easier suggestion than opening up a different bank account, I'd love to hear it. I'm assuming that this is a one-off adventure for you, so Lorne Reams' suggestion is the best. For my sister, who lives in Asia but whose home is the US, she just has bank accounts in every country and cashes (and spends) the currency appropriately wherever she happens to be. I often deposit her U.S. checks for her, and she generally brings over the maximum USD cash limit on some of her trips home to very slowly transfer her money back here. It's not ideal but it's easier for her to get good exchange rates that way.
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Aug 22, 2011 20:25
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LorneReams posted:Cash it for actual currency and then exchange the currancy at a place that won't gently caress you on the exchange rate...I don't know if that is possible, but I did actually do this with Yen before. Yeah, the trouble is finding a place that won't gently caress me on the exchange rate. I don't think I can just take it to the airport, for example. I called BoA's foreign currency number and the guy said that the rates I see online on finance websites are market trading rates, whereas actual bank exchange rates or something are always going to be lower at any bank in the U.S. Bullshit or no? Seems like bullshit to me... I guess I will call around to other banks some more and see if they'll do an exchange for a non-account holder.
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Aug 22, 2011 20:28
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It's not bullshit. Banks buy and sell currencies at different rates (that's how they make money). If the exchange rate is 100 yen/usd, they will buy yen at 110 yen/USD and sell yen at 90 yen/USD. How much worse than the market rate really depends on the bank. For example, in Japan, GoLloyd's rates are usually only a couple yen off of the market rate whereas other banks can be much more.
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Aug 22, 2011 21:27
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Welcome to the whole reason they decided to attempt the EuroZone currency experiment. Really, ask yourself why else Germany and France would be willing to tie a rope around Italy and Greece and then tie the other end to themselves. Banks gently caress you over. BoA doubly so. It's made watching their stock the past week very 
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Aug 23, 2011 04:29
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Do you ever work abroad or have someone you trust abroad? Could you open a bank account that has branches in the US and the UK and have someone deposit it for you in the UK? Would have to be someone you really trust if signing it over was necessary...
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Aug 23, 2011 05:02
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I have had to deal with moving money internationally a number of times, and you will never get the listed exchange rate. As far as I know, banks don't even get that rate themselves (although it's pretty close). Think of it more like the benchmark everyone uses to generate their trading prices. Exactly how screwed you get depends on the convenience they are offering you and how desperate you are. Honestly, for that amount of money, it's probably worth seeing if you can open a steriling-denominated account and deposit it there, and then transfer it to a usd-account with the same entity. They should give you a pretty good rate, I believe this is what my parents have typically done when they needed to do this. I seem to recall someone talking about a company that would offer currency-denominated accounts fairly painlessly. XE, maybe? I don't know.
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Aug 23, 2011 14:24
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I just got turned down for an American Express card due to my low FICO score (650) and it says I'm entitled to a free report since I've been declined. They have a link to the Experian site to get my free denied report, but how do I do that with FICO? Myfico.com really wants to sell me their poo poo, and I don't want that. E: Never mind, they got my FICO score from Experian, so I need to go through them to get my report. E2: This stupid Dell thing continues to haunt me, all 9 accounts are great, except Dell isn't reporting the last payment I made that zeroed out the balance, and it shows as past 120 days late as of 2007, when does that poo poo fall off? The account is paid, closed, does that mean it's being properly reported? This is what my balance history looks like: Jul 2010: $743 / July 9, 2010 / $23 / no data Jun 2010: $759 / June 10, 2010 / $23 / no data May 2010: $774 / no data / no data / no data Apr 2010: $789 / no data / no data / no data Mar 2010: $803 / no data / no data / no data Feb 2010: $0 / no data / no data / no data Jan 2010: $831 / no data / no data / no data Dec 2009: $845 / no data / no data / no data Nov 2009: $830 / no data / no data / no data Oct 2009: $814 / no data / no data / no data Sep 2009: $828 / no data / no data / no data Aug 2009: $842 / no data / no data / no data For that last payment I paid the full balance, but when I look at my checking account I made a $30 payment on July 9, and a $743 payment on Aug 10, has that been missed? FISHMANPET fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Aug 23, 2011 |
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Aug 23, 2011 17:23
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I have a question about the weird limbo situation I'm in, didn't think it was worth its own thread. I got out of grad school about a month ago and am job-hunting, and running low on money. I need some cash to buy groceries and stuff and pay rent, to tide me over until I get a job, but since I'm not a student anymore I can't get any student loans. I'm unemployed so the bank won't lend to me with a personal loan. My family's in a bad place financially atm so I can't go to them. There's a very very good chance I'll have a job within a month - I'm interviewing at a couple places right now, I have a grad degree and I'm in a city where there's a decent number of job openings. I just need a temporary loan to carry me through for a little while. I've been looking at payday loans and credit cards and things, but I feel like I'm not informed enough to risk any of them without getting hosed. I'm pretty much resigned to getting hosed on APR, so what's the best way to get as little hosed as possible?
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