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Brigdh posted:Sounds like my friend and I have a few options, we'll just have to discuss pros/cons and come to a conclusion. Not quite 8 amps but it is a sorta cheap, straightforward solution that doesnt involve you blowing alternators or batteries. http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rated-watts-900-max-watts-portable-generator-66619.html
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Aug 9, 2011 00:13
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What can you guys tell me about DA/Orbital sanders? Right now I have a square palm sander, and I've been using it to do some rust/paint removal on my car, and it's seems to work well enough in some areas, but not so much in others. I also have an angle grinder, with some sanding attachments, so would that be just as good? And yet, I have discovered the wonderful things known as poly-abrasive disks, but I don't really like using them in some areas as they tend to get ripped apart around corners and some uneven surfaces.
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Aug 10, 2011 21:32
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ExplodingSims posted:What can you guys tell me about DA/Orbital sanders? Right now I have a square palm sander, and I've been using it to do some rust/paint removal on my car, and it's seems to work well enough in some areas, but not so much in others. I also have an angle grinder, with some sanding attachments, so would that be just as good?
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Aug 10, 2011 21:42
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Oh, I have those, and they're great for heavy rust and stuff, but the areas I'm working on right now are mostly just long flat areas with some light rust and paint. I've just been using the sander because I feel it generally is the easier to use and gives the best results. Also, are you worried about scratching the metal when you remove paint with a wire wheel? Or do you mostly use it in out of sight places? And believe me, I'm familiar with the extend of damage a wire wheel can do to a person.
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Aug 10, 2011 21:52
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Yeah a sander works too, but wire wheel is way faster and doesn't get all loaded up with paint and poo poo like sand paper or those abrasive wheels can. I found sandpaper scratches worse than wire wheels because wires seem to cut through paint and rust, but are softer so they bend out of the way of the base metal, while garnet and other abrasives keep on going. Obviously they will probably gently caress up some aluminum or stainless, but you probably wouldn't be wire wheeling them in the first place. Only thing you really have to worry about is overheating spots and warping panels, but that won't happen if you are even remotely careful.
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Aug 10, 2011 22:04
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What you want, my friend, are clean-n-strip discs: Edit: Specifically, use the discs on the flats, then the drill-mount ones for the details that are tearing them up when you normally use them. 
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Aug 10, 2011 22:17
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I have always been a fan of the twisted wire brushes on angle grinders, but however have recently switched to flap disks, I find them to be pretty in general use, from weld dressing to paint removal. If you don't want to take any metal off you can get the flap disks with the pad flaps which I think are better for paint removal without taking down the metal.
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Aug 11, 2011 02:00
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CornHolio posted:I used up my gift card at Harbor Freight yesterday and got one of their new Pittsburg Pro 3/8" ratchets. I've had that ratchet for going on 3+ years now. It is 100% awesome. I've abused the poo poo out of it. Hit it with hammers, rubber mallets, thrown it in fits of rage, etc and it still feels tighter than the refurbished piece of poo poo Craftsman gave me I used once. It's almost as good as the Snap-On Dual80 but I'd rather have 10 of these than only 1 snap-on.
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Aug 11, 2011 02:30
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http://www.harborfreight.com/compression-test-kit-66216.html Any comments on their compression tester kit?
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Aug 11, 2011 14:29
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Worked fine for me.
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Aug 11, 2011 14:42
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Lord Gaga posted:Not quite 8 amps but it is a sorta cheap, straightforward solution that doesnt involve you blowing alternators or batteries. This has been very very useful for me. I used it to run my sump pump during a weather outage, run random stuff while I am out at my parents house doing stuff in the field (no literally, I am in a field). It will even run my furnace which only draws 13 amps starting and 11 amps running. No it won't run the air but in the winter, keeping warm is what matters to me. Luckily the furnace is located so close to where I can run the generator I just keep a couple of really heavy duty cords. The compression tester works. You may get a bad one, but with HF there is always a chance for that. But a no questions asked return policy, its pretty easy to get a new one.
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Aug 11, 2011 16:39
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BrokenKnucklez posted:This has been very very useful for me. I used it to run my sump pump during a weather outage, run random stuff while I am out at my parents house doing stuff in the field (no literally, I am in a field). If anyone is looking at this exact model - wait until August 26th, it's going to be on special for $89.99 (According to a 'future insert' from my last shipped order). v- Nope. They specifically exclude 'percentage off' deals with this 'Tent Event Sale' Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 16:58
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And you can probably get 20% off on top of that.
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Aug 11, 2011 17:10
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HF has a pretty decent sale going on today. The famous 301 Piece Tool set is $140, the 1/2" Torque Wrench is $10 and they have a 3 ton floor jack with good reviews for $60. Prices are only good online and only until 10pm PST.
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Aug 17, 2011 16:34
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BeastOfExmoor posted:HF has a pretty decent sale going on today. The famous 301 Piece Tool set is $140, the 1/2" Torque Wrench is $10 and they have a 3 ton floor jack with good reviews for $60. Prices are only good online and only until 10pm PST. The one jack I see is $80. Is 18" a good lift height for cars? edit: it's showing up as $60 now, ordered it with the 1/2" torque wrench for 84 shipped. Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 16:40
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Anybody used the $13 a/c vacuum pump from hf? Would it work for a simple recharge?
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Aug 17, 2011 19:52
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kmcormick9 posted:Anybody used the $13 a/c vacuum pump from hf? Would it work for a simple recharge? I've used it, it works as advertised, +/- a couple inches Hg (according to my Harbor Freight manifold gauges). Not as good as a pump with a motor, but it does fine for home use. It uses a lot of air though - don't bother with it if you don't have a good compressor with a big tank.
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Aug 17, 2011 20:35
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kmcormick9 posted:Anybody used the $13 a/c vacuum pump from hf? Would it work for a simple recharge?
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Aug 17, 2011 20:36
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I can't find my set of multimeter leads. I can't remember what exactly they're called, I always called them pin probes. They look kind of like regular leads, but they had hooks on the end to hold the wire while a sharp little pin penetrates the insulation to check wires without having to strip or damage them. Anyone know what these are called or where I can find them? I've tried a bunch of combinations on google, but I can only seem to find ones that check for moisture. The place I ordered them from years ago doesn't exist anymore. E: Nevermind, found it. If you ever need to test a bunch of wiring, these things are great. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Aug 18, 2011 |
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Aug 18, 2011 02:47
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Lowclock posted:I can't find my set of multimeter leads. I can't remember what exactly they're called, I always called them pin probes. They look kind of like regular leads, but they had hooks on the end to hold the wire while a sharp little pin penetrates the insulation to check wires without having to strip or damage them. You mean like these? http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-TP81-Insulation-Piercing-Probes/dp/B000VRECUQ/ref=pd_cp_hi_1 http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-AC89-Heavy-Insulation-Piercing/dp/B000BHIU72 edit: Slow. 
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Aug 18, 2011 02:56
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Yeah those still aren't exactly like the ones I had, but they do the same thing. Mine looked more like a regular probe, but the one I linked or the second one you linked actually looks better than what I had since it's longer and controlled from the end and not the tip to get into wire bundles in tight spaces. Thanks.
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Aug 18, 2011 02:58
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_338525-2232...o=$15%20-%20$25 I went to Lowe's today for a 3/8 drive universal. A single universal was $9 and this kit that included the exact same one was $20, so I bought it instead. It seems like an excellent value for only $20, just to have a small set to keep in the car or something. And the ratchet actually feels pretty good too.
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Aug 22, 2011 04:52
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Anyone ever seen one of these in the wild? Doesn't look especially practical mind.
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Aug 23, 2011 21:26
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Aceshighxxx posted:http://www.lowes.com/pd_338525-2232...o=$15%20-%20$25 I use that exact kit, it is quite nice and their warranty cant be beat. The sockets for life is awesome if a bit gimmicky. I used that set and a couple of breaker bars to do a timing chain and head gasket on my brothers civic.
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Aug 23, 2011 21:51
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Jaxx posted:Anyone ever seen one of these in the wild? 
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Aug 23, 2011 21:53
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Lowclock posted:combined tools rock They're nice when gimmicky, too. I had to buy this thing when I saw it in a shop and am constantly tempted to buy more, just in case I lose the one I already have (and never use for anything, be it hammering or beer-opening)
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Aug 23, 2011 21:58
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pim01 posted:They're nice when gimmicky, too. I had to buy this thing when I saw it in a shop and am constantly tempted to buy more, just in case I lose the one I already have (and never use for anything, be it hammering or beer-opening) I have one of these. It hangs in my cube and I dubbed it "regulator".
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Aug 23, 2011 22:27
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Please tell me the packaging includes lots of bad puns about getting hammered.
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Aug 23, 2011 22:28
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Lowclock posted:Weird looking combined tools rock
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Aug 24, 2011 03:13
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I like that if you screwed them a little tight and forced them shut they'd probably work better than a normal hammer because of the tension. Wish they made bigger ones.
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Aug 24, 2011 03:50
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Best to have gloves if you're going to hammer with that thing because it's going to vibrate like hell. Eye protection would be a must as well (moreso than with a regular hammer).
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Aug 24, 2011 03:59
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pim01 posted:They're nice when gimmicky, too. I had to buy this thing when I saw it in a shop and am constantly tempted to buy more, just in case I lose the one I already have (and never use for anything, be it hammering or beer-opening) The Craftsman bottle wrench is a seriously awesome bottle opener: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_005W147557110001P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 Has the weight and feel of a nice big wrench so popping off caps is a lot of fun.
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Aug 24, 2011 05:08
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Am i clinically loving retarded, or is it really hard to get a decent double flare on steel tubing? I bought the kit from Napa, and have tried to make flares about twenty times. They all suck, are lopsided, and I'm sure won't seal. I'm deburring the inside of the tubing, I'm making sure the cut is square, and following every trick I've read online. What the gently caress.
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Aug 24, 2011 05:14
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sharkytm posted:Am i clinically loving retarded, or is it really hard to get a decent double flare on steel tubing? I bought the kit from Napa, and have tried to make flares about twenty times. They all suck, are lopsided, and I'm sure won't seal. I'm deburring the inside of the tubing, I'm making sure the cut is square, and following every trick I've read online. What the gently caress. I'm assuming you're using a standard double flare tool kit , with the clamp and little round inserts with a peg in the middle. First, make sure your cut is clean and straight. Then, make sure when you clamp it in the tool that it is sticking up about 1/4 inch (about the height of the top, disc part of the tools insert),and make sure that it is clamped down really drat tight. Use a screwdriver to turn the wingnuts if you have to. I'm sure you know the rest, use the insert tool first, then the tapered cone shaped clamp thing second. I had trouble too when I first started, and it all stemmed from not getting the steel tubing clamped down tight enough in the holding clamp. I don't want to be patronizing but maybe this will help http://www.fordification.com/tech/doubleflare.htm e: you probably already know this too, but using a bench vise to secure the clamp, it makes it much easier than trying to hold it in your hand. Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 05:35
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Aceshighxxx posted:e: you probably already know this too, but using a bench vise to secure the clamp, it makes it much easier than trying to hold it in your hand.
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Aug 24, 2011 05:52
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The cut IS square, I've tried using a tubing cutter, hacksaw, and cutoff tool. I've debured the inside, outside, inside only, outside only, broke the wingnuts, replaced them with bolts/nuts, and I'm holding it in a vise. I have noticed that my 3/16" die's pin is a little bent, but I seem to be making the bubble flare correctly, its just the second operation that sucks. The cone on my press wobbles a bit, and I can't get it to make the second flare without being off center, or leaving a huge ridge around the outside. Also, I've read every single page online regarding flaring. I'm not kidding, I probably read over 100 pages of material, DIYs, and hints. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 13:41 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 13:37
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I bought the flare tool from Eastwood. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but I will in the near future. The only problem I can see with this tool is that it requires I vice in the tool when making flares. I didn't pay this much though. I got it through ebay from Eastwood's ebay store so I got a lot better price. I think I paid like 150 or so..? ASSTASTIC fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 16:31
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The problem is that the Napa kit is a huge turd.
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Aug 24, 2011 17:36
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Jaxx posted:Anyone ever seen one of these in the wild?  Practical and safe. For kids!
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Aug 24, 2011 17:53
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Oh poo poo. Harbor Freight just opened a store where I live. They used to be a 45-minute drive. I'm afraid for my wallet. 
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Aug 24, 2011 20:43
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