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Can someone recommend me a really good tabletop bandsaw? I want a really good one and have no room for a freestanding one Also I scored a sweet Wilton vise from my neighbor... for free
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Aug 1, 2011 02:50
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I need some new clamps, and I've always liked the quick-grip kind where you can squeeze the handle to tighten the clamps. Does anybody have any experience with the Irwin clamps at Lowe's? Is there anything else I should be looking at?
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Aug 1, 2011 16:16
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The Human Cow posted:I need some new clamps, and I've always liked the quick-grip kind where you can squeeze the handle to tighten the clamps. Depends on what you want to use them for. If you just need them as another set of hand to hold something occasionally they are great. If you want to do precise clamping of glue-ups you want to look more at parallel clamps like Bessey Revo. The problem with quick clamps for precision work is that when you pump the handle to tighten them down they tend to torque or twist a little bit which will move your clamp off the exact mark you were aiming for. If you want to stick with the quick clamp style have a look at the Irwin XP series (silver color) too. They have a much more robust construction, a lot more power and a very smooth tightening action.
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Aug 1, 2011 17:55
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I like them for certain clamping but if you need a lot of force, a standard screw clamp is the way to go
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Aug 1, 2011 22:20
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ibpooks posted:Depends on what you want to use them for. If you just need them as another set of hand to hold something occasionally they are great. If you want to do precise clamping of glue-ups you want to look more at parallel clamps like Bessey Revo. The problem with quick clamps for precision work is that when you pump the handle to tighten them down they tend to torque or twist a little bit which will move your clamp off the exact mark you were aiming for. If you want to stick with the quick clamp style have a look at the Irwin XP series (silver color) too. They have a much more robust construction, a lot more power and a very smooth tightening action. Keep in mind, there's a new type of Irwin quick clamp that has like 3-4 times more clamping power (up to 600lbs). I haven't been able to justify buying them but they've received good reviews.
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Aug 2, 2011 06:26
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I posted:have a look at the Irwin XP series (silver color) too. They have a much more robust construction, a lot more power and a very smooth tightening action. kafkasgoldfish posted:Keep in mind, there's a new type of Irwin quick clamp that has like 3-4 times more clamping power (up to 600lbs). I haven't been able to justify buying them but they've received good reviews.
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Aug 2, 2011 17:40
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Bessey 4 Lyfe. Seriously, some of the best metal working clamps I've ever used.
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Aug 3, 2011 08:30
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The Human Cow posted:I need some new clamps, and I've always liked the quick-grip kind where you can squeeze the handle to tighten the clamps. Does anybody have any experience with the Irwin clamps at Lowe's? Is there anything else I should be looking at? Nice bar clamps are the same price, will last longer, have better application to everything you are doing and won't break. Jorgensens or the besseys mentioned above are in that pricerange. Those things will limit you in application and don't let you have precise clamping pressure which is important. If you just need it for quick jobs it works, but having better clamps lets you do more down the road.
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Aug 3, 2011 17:14
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Good to know. Thanks for the advice, everyone.
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Aug 3, 2011 17:19
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I have a set of the Irwin clamps that I got for Christmas. I love them. I also get extremely irritated because the throat depth is narrow and some things won't clamp properly because of that. I haven't done any precision work with them so haven't noticed any of the torquing issues mentioned above. They are great as gifts. I'll be expanding my range of clamps in the future though because they don't work for all the situations I have in mind.
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Aug 4, 2011 00:23
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I think the thing to take away from this clamp discussion is that you can NEVER have too many clamps. Short ones, fat ones, long ones, quick ones and slow ones. There will never be one clamp to rule them all, just an army of them coming down braveheart style.
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Aug 4, 2011 00:35
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MrPete posted:I think the thing to take away from this clamp discussion is that you can NEVER have too many clamps. With an army of clamps the ending of Braveheart would have been much different.
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Aug 4, 2011 06:00
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From what I remember it would have been pretty much the same.
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Aug 4, 2011 06:22
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yeah they really would have been able to put the squeeze on the english!
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Aug 4, 2011 07:16
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My favorite clamp buying tip: Menards carries Jorgensen Cabinet Master clamps and every other month or so, they go on sale. These are the clamps I'm referring to: http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-8024-Cabinet-90-Degree-Parallel/dp/B00005R1HN They were always $20-25-30 for the 24-36-48 inch clamps, but in the last ad I saw where they had them on sale, they were $5 more each now. That's still a drat good price for them and pretty much the cheapest you'll see them. Even better, since Home Depot carries them too, they're supposed to beat the price by 10%. I tried it at one Home Depot and they refused, but I know guys have gotten them to price match before. They're my favorite clamps and to continue the Braveheart discussion, the outcome of the final battle would have probably been the same if they were all using Cabinet Masters - they're seriously heavy clamps. I'm not sure I'd use them for welding (the orange parts are plastic), but for woodworking, they're hard to beat.
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Aug 7, 2011 14:45
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I didn't realize we were talking about the battle, I was talking about the torture and execution. As far as clamps go, I have really been pleasantly surprised by the four grey adjustable steel bar clamps I got for $5.00 at big lots almost 3 years ago. I think the only packaging was a zip tie.
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Aug 9, 2011 02:43
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Not really tools but I view work wear as part of my tool arsenal. I recently bought a few Blåkläder items: http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/workpants/glasgow_kilt/ http://www.blaklader.com/no/produkter/handverk/bukser/15001320-bukse-handverk-x1500/khaki-svart-2899/ (couldn't find this on the US site) http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/accessories/heavy_duty_knee_padd/ http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/accessories/suspenders/ http://www.blaklader.com/no/produkter/handskar/hansker/22453942-arbeidshanske-freyr/ http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/tops/base_performance_tee/ I must say I'm extremely impressed with the quality and thought that has gone into these products. The pants felt worn-in when I tried them in the store. Simply amazing. I added suspenders and the gel knee pads to the pants. I like having suspenders when I end up with half a tool box and three boxes of screws in the pockets. Having to tighten the belt enough for the pants to stay on and seeing your balls turn blue is not for me. The knee pads are great when I mess around on my knees but they are a bit stiff so they flatten the knee in the pants when I stand up. Blåkläder should have molded a curve in them. I will probably cut some grooves in them to fix this. Maybe drill some holes in as well to get some air in. Pants are robust and heavy so they favor cool to cold weather. Smooth material so they don't rub on knees. Still not completely used to the pockets compared to my old pants but I'll get the hang of it. The kilt is fantastic of course. If you are comfortable wearing it. If you're not you're a pussy. A bit limited with utility pockets but you obviously can't get as much as in pants. The left side pocket feels slightly to far to the front so I sometimes feel my torpedo level hit my knee when I walk, very minor issue. It's pure sex wearing it in hot weather but obviously no knee pads. poo poo, you're so manly in this your knees can take it. The gloves are ok. They are a tight fit and it feels like the seams rub ever so slightly against my hands. Maybe I need to get used to them. Very good work gloves when you need to do detailed work, not so good when you need more protection against bumping your hand against stuff and so on. Strong stuff though. I've gripped boards with nails sticking through them without any poking though. For detailed work I still favor finger-less gloves. The t-shirts are nice. Unlike regular cotton t-shirts, these really breathe. I've yet to see sweat stains even when I was soaking. You feel the slightest breeze in these. I usually wear regular cotton t-shirts but I picked up a few of these on sale and I think it was worth it. I expect these will work well to transport perspiration under other clothes during the winter as well. Blåkläder has a lifetime warranty on the seams which is nice as my last pants suddenly became very "kilt-y". The seam from the crotch to one of the knees ripped. My new pants are superior to my old one so I expect I won't need the warranty. Blåkläder means "Blue clothes" in Swedish by the way. I must say I have become a fan. drat those ingenious Swedes.
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Aug 13, 2011 22:39
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 Got the stanley 606 and bailey no 4 friday, fettled and cleaned them up today following various online guides. I don't think there's a hardcore purist community here, the most I've paid for a plane is 35$ for that 605 and I mean to use them, not shelve them... ..so I'm comfortable saying due to the severe lack of japanning I added a few coats of gloss black paint. I sanded all the mating parts down to about 400 and fettled the bottom on a big piece of flat MDF with spray glued sheet of 200 then 400. First time fixing up a plane. Next time I want to try electrolysis or citric acid bath, hand sanding, using steel wool and brass brushes is a bitch and took me literally the whole day. Unfortunately the 606's frog wasn't the original when I pulled it off, it didn't come with a cap iron or cutter either, but it was 10$ and I can get a frog and cap iron/cutter online for cheap. Just used paste wax on the sole, sides, and some other areas. Greased threads with bicycle grease, as I'm out of pretty much everything else. Was nervous about painting because nutty plane collectors are nazis about it, but I am not going to gently caress with burning linseed oil onto a plane for hours. Came out surprisingly well, might even spraypaint it next time with careful taping. Both handles on the bailey had cracks, the rear handle was all the way in two pieces but not messed up. Cleaned em up with turp and a rag, wetted it and gorilla glued them, then carefully scraped the joint and its not noticeable anymore. I think I want to redo these properly sometime but I am knackered. You can see the difference between bad japanning loss on my 605 on the right and the newly painted 606. Think it looks sharp. Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Aug 16, 2011 |
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Aug 16, 2011 00:53
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I threw a metal cutting wheel on my angle grinder today and honestly it made me nervous. It had a lot more kicking to it than the grinding wheels do. I'm completely fine and comfortable with the grinding wheels, but the cutting wheel had me sweating a bit. Basically I'm a wiener.
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Aug 20, 2011 19:00
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With cutoff wheels on grinders, you need to be fairly cautious of sideloading them too much, which can make them break apart (always wear eye protection) It's important to never use them like a normal grinding wheel, or at least very gently if you're trying to save time and knocking off a burr/whatever. You've also got to be careful with which side of the wheel you're pushing into the material and which direction the body of the grinder is facing. Generally you want the body pointing towards you and the wheel pulling the grinder away, and to pull the wheel backwards into the material. It'll work pretty much any direction, but you need to hold the grinder steady to keep it from hopping in and out of the cut.
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Aug 20, 2011 19:15
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Does anyone have any experience with digital levels? My $8 task force level recently bit the dust from an 8' fall, and I think it's about time for me to buy a level that is actually accurate. I've had a few cheapie ones and they've always been off by a degree or two, causing much frustration with projects. I'm wondering if digital levels are worth it, primarily so I don't have to adjust to look perpendicularly at the bubble to get a reading, and I think it'd be nice if it beeped when level so I don't even have to look.
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Aug 23, 2011 03:23
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dyne posted:Does anyone have any experience with digital levels? My $8 task force level recently bit the dust from an 8' fall, and I think it's about time for me to buy a level that is actually accurate. I've had a few cheapie ones and they've always been off by a degree or two, causing much frustration with projects. I'm wondering if digital levels are worth it, primarily so I don't have to adjust to look perpendicularly at the bubble to get a reading, and I think it'd be nice if it beeped when level so I don't even have to look. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uI3GYH_UT2I&list=UUt89le-Td1s2cOty4h8vxxQ If you haven't already seen it... This Stabila video is pretty convincing. Though pricey.
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Aug 24, 2011 02:33
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Hypnolobster posted:With cutoff wheels on grinders, you need to be fairly cautious of sideloading them too much, which can make them break apart (always wear eye protection). With a setup like this I think the pull down clear visor would be better, last thing he needs are chunks of metal lodged in his face. This was a rule in metal shop when I was in high school. If you are using any manner of tool that involved a rapidly spinning bit coming in contact with metal you have to wear the clear face mask. Don't know home many times we saw some red hot hunk of metal (this stuff folding over from grinding/cutting friction) lodging itself into the plastic visor. Blistex fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 19:42
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The Automator posted:I threw a metal cutting wheel on my angle grinder today and honestly it made me nervous. It had a lot more kicking to it than the grinding wheels do. I'm completely fine and comfortable with the grinding wheels, but the cutting wheel had me sweating a bit. I refuse to use these without wearing my leather apron. I have had 2 come apart on me and luckily both times I was wearing my leather. Go to harbor freight and pick one up for $8. If you want a better one, I can try to see what brand I use(if the tag is still legible...)It will give you a lot more peace of mind when working with spinny things.
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Aug 25, 2011 00:21
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When abusing good quality(made in usa) cut-off discs of the 4.5-9" variety, the center that is under the clamp nut will twist out of the rest of the disc, leaving your underwear clean and your skin intact. I think the fracturing and breaking apart is mostly limited to cheap import discs.
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Aug 25, 2011 17:56
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Chauncey posted:When abusing good quality(made in usa) cut-off discs of the 4.5-9" variety, the center that is under the clamp nut will twist out of the rest of the disc, leaving your underwear clean and your skin intact. Ive used Dewalt ones on a dewalt 4.5" grinder and gotten discs with plenty of chips and fraying after being used by big dumb dummies.
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Aug 25, 2011 20:06
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To be frank, I've never used more than regular safety glasses and hearing protection when grinding. Positioning and know-how has kept me safe for now. If you get bits of metal from the actual grinding in your visor, you are aiming the cutoff blast at it. Just don't do that. Equally, don't aim it at your body unless it is protected against some heat and a few drops of molten metal. I've never caught fire using a grinder and wearing cotton/nylon. I have caught fire welding and gas cutting. I've had exploding discs but there's little mass in them once they shatter and I never (ok, seldom) take the protection screen of the grinder. I try to keep that between me and the disc. When I'm grinding or cutting I'm focused like a motherfucker. What makes me have near accidents is putting the grinder down or having to adjust something. I clearly need a grinder with a motor break. PS: I'm not against safety. All I'm saying is that visors, leather aprons and whatnot are not good safety substitutes for good common sense. PSS: Last time cutting I used 0.8mm discs. Such a treat to cut with. Fast, nice even cut, little heat. Have to find more of those. I was cutting 200x200x6 mm square tubing with a small 125mm grinder without a hitch. It's only 750W. Used up one disc for a whole cut. Oh and I did it in a kilt. 
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Aug 26, 2011 09:14
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Iskariot posted:Oh and I did it in a kilt. Backyard Blacksmith forges in a utilikilt, so do you apparently, and I am seriously considering it. I don't really know why. What the gently caress is wrong with us man? Oh also, my princess auto grinder that I abuse the poo poo out of was making unpleasant grinding noises in the gearbox a couple of weeks ago. It threw a ball bearing out the casing (cracked the aluminium casting) and now it runs a lot smoother.  That's the only one I took the shield off of, since I use it for my braided wire cup work. There's something special about this thing. I stopped using it because I thought it was dead a few years ago. When another one died on me, I tried this one again, and it worked. Not great, but it plugged along like a champ. The braided wire cups tend to be pretty hard on grinders, since they're heavy and you're pressing pretty hard with them, but this one keeps on working. Somehow.
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Aug 26, 2011 18:17
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Slung Blade posted:Backyard Blacksmith forges in a utilikilt, so do you apparently, and I am seriously considering it. I don't really know why. http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/workpants/glasgow_kilt/ Doesn't look at nice as the Utilikilt but it works. The Ulilikilts can't hold as many tools by the looks of it. It's a step up from wearing shorts when working. If you are careless you expose your balls to all sorts of dangers but if you use the kilt correctly, you can shield the family jewels and lower legs with the front of the kilt. It's more or less like walking around in your boxers and who doesn't like that?
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Aug 28, 2011 12:50
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Has anyone seen these before?: http://www.amazon.com/Trojan-TS-35-35-Inch-Sawhorse-Complete/dp/B0000224RO/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t Its a crazy rear end saw horse that just uses 2x4s as its center. I'm really interested in them, but not 70$ interested.
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Sep 20, 2011 07:18
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Iskariot posted:To be frank, I've never used more than regular safety glasses and hearing protection when grinding. Positioning and know-how has kept me safe for now. For now. Debris takes some weird hops, and I've gotten a chunk of cutting wheel in my forearm before. It's no goddamned fun. It could just as easily have been my cheek or forehead. There's no reason not to wear a faceshield when you're grinding, except maybe the very very rare times you have to wedge yourself in somewhere narrow to cut something. But to the dude worried about cutting wheels, just always remember they're more of a hazard than grinding wheels, don't sideload them, wear your PPE and stay out of the path of fragmentation and you'll be ok.
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Sep 20, 2011 14:16
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There's no reason not to, true, but it's just  when you're working and need to cut a couple of nails or something. It disrupts work flow. It is lazy but work has to be done.The shield is key. By positioning you can only be subjected to ricochets and not direct fragments. The kinetic energy in the fragment is usually pretty depleted at that point. I haven't had many exploding discs but it has happened. Usually my fault as I bent the disc by twisting the grinder or something like it. I try not to be semi-naked when handling a large grinder with a hefty disc because of the reasons you describe. I once got a piece of steel stuck in my forearm when looking at my brother beating some steel into submission on an anvil. About half a thumbnail in size. The thing dug itself pretty deep so I couldn't get it out by using an ice cube and a needle. The doctor dug in my arm for five minutes or so getting it out. Once out we could see what looked like barbs that made it stick in the wound like hell. I threatened to nail my brother to the door for what he had done.
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Sep 20, 2011 19:58
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Now that I'm wearing them all day every day, my 5 year old sears safety glasses just aren't cutting it. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Sep 23, 2011 00:15
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oxbrain posted:Now that I'm wearing them all day every day, my 5 year old sears safety glasses just aren't cutting it. Anyone have any recommendations? That's a pretty personal choice as far as comfort. If you have an industrial safety supply place nearby it might be worth a trip down there to try some out. Just make sure they're ANSI Z87 compliant if you're wearing them for work. These are what we have at work and I'm really happy with them: http://www.pyramexsafety.com/products/eyewear/ss4710d If you need shaded I think I've got a few extra pairs laying around to spare.
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Sep 23, 2011 00:18
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I'll have to swing by grainger at some point I guess.
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Sep 23, 2011 00:35
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I'm kind of spoiled- my wife works in the safety office for the Corps of Engineers so I get samples of all kinds of neat poo poo my bosses would never buy. I will say I hate North's safety glasses (Honeywell bought North so now they're using all North safety products in their plants; it was great fun telling the product demo people in-depth how their benefits were about to be gutted). I've tried three different kinds and they all suck. GD_American fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 00:56
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I must admit that I sometimes... No, almost always use my regular glasses whatever I do.  I blame my father for bad influence. I'm too lazy to put on contacts to do work and safety glasses that go on top of regular glasses are, well, slightly terrible to say the least. Especially with a mask.I should get contact lenses that I can wear for a month so lazy doesn't cost me an eye. Wonder if I could get decent working glasses somewhere for a good price. Latest tool purchases: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-bfr550z-li-ion-cordless-auto-feed-screwdriver-18v-naked-p4533 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/metabo-sxe450-turbotec-240v-350w-150mm-disc-sander-50-free-sanding-discs-p8651 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-bmr101-job-site-radio-with-dab-p14463 Haven't used them much yet. Still preparing to set up drywall. I expect fastening will be less of a PITA with the driver.
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Sep 23, 2011 08:04
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Just have to drop this here: http://www.makita.co.nz/products/detail.lsd?item=BBY180Z Makita really does have a cordless alternative for everything.
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Sep 23, 2011 14:28
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GD_American posted:That's a pretty personal choice as far as comfort. If you have an industrial safety supply place nearby it might be worth a trip down there to try some out. Just make sure they're ANSI Z87 compliant if you're wearing them for work. My brother is in the military and gave me a pair of Wiley X SG-1 (they have arms as well as the strap. Would this be something useful as safety glasses, or should I get something designed more for shop work? I'd be cutting granite and tile with a wetsaw or angle grinder. http://www.amazon.com/Wiley-x-71-SG-1-Smoke-Clear/dp/B000QRMR1M
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Sep 23, 2011 16:39
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AFewBricksShy posted:My brother is in the military and gave me a pair of Wiley X SG-1 (they have arms as well as the strap. Would this be something useful as safety glasses, or should I get something designed more for shop work? I'd be cutting granite and tile with a wetsaw or angle grinder. No those would work fine, they're ANSI compliant and they have all the side protection you need. (although a face shield is still recommended) My only complaint about Wiley-X stuff is whenever I wore them for a few hours and sweated, the rubber ring around the eyepieces would lock down on your skin and it felt like you were pulling your eyeballs out to break the suction. But that was 2005, I don't know whether they've changed anything now. Still- can't beat free!
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Sep 23, 2011 17:40
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