|
Joeytunes posted:I often use an oil/varathane mix. I mix up 40% Danish oil or Tung oil, 40% oil based varathane (usually satin finish), and 20% mineral spirits. good info, thanks for sharing! few questions... the danish oil you use, does it typically have varnish already mixed in? as the watco danish oil I'm using already has some varnish in it. maybe a stupid question but what do you mix it in? I guess I didn't properly understand flooding, I was flooding by pouring the oil on thick and then wiping it clean, the instructions on the watco stuff say to wipe it dry after a half hour then reapply a second coat, wait 15 minutes then wipe dry... Is this because it has more mineral spirits than varnish/oil so it doesn't require as long to dry? How will I know when I have enough coats? is it pretty obvious when a film starts to develop? To maintain a danish oil finish do you just rub more danish oil into it every now and then or should you use some other kind of oil or finish to maintain after the varnish is applied? forgive all the noob questions. I'm also trying to find a suitable coating for the interior of this aquarium stand which is all bare mdf. I'm not expecting it to be 100% waterproof but since I'll have the canister filter and other aquarium supplies inside of the stand I'd like it to be at least fairly water repellent in case of spills. It doesn't have to be pretty as it's the interior and back of the stand. I was thinking about using some kind of basement/cement floor coat but I don't know how well those would work with something as porous as mdf. Can anyone recommend how best to coat this mdf? MMD3 fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Aug 26, 2011 |
#
?
Aug 26, 2011 20:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 05:26 |
|
|
MMD3 posted:I'm also trying to find a suitable coating for the interior of this aquarium stand which is all bare mdf. I'm not expecting it to be 100% waterproof but since I'll have the canister filter and other aquarium supplies inside of the stand I'd like it to be at least fairly water repellent in case of spills. It doesn't have to be pretty as it's the interior and back of the stand. I was thinking about using some kind of basement/cement floor coat but I don't know how well those would work with something as porous as mdf. Can anyone recommend how best to coat this mdf? I used spar urethane when I built my aquarium stand. Just painted it liberally in the bottom letting it soak into all the joints, then applied quite a few more coats to make it waterproof. I used 3/4" hardwood ply, though. When I broke everything down and sold it, I just hosed it out. Water was still beading on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 26, 2011 22:50
|
|
|
When buying oil finishes, just because tung is in the name doesn't mean it has any tung oil in it. Pure or 100% tung oil takes months to dry, smells a bit and can wrinkle if applied too thickly. Then there are tung oil finishes that may or may not (usually not) have any tung oil and will be some combination of varnish and/or boiled linseed oil (BLO) and thinner (usually mineral spirits). The more oil in the mixture, the softer and less water resistant the finish. A pure oil finish is not very water resistant and not scratch resistant. You can improve scratch resistance a bit with wax. When it comes down to hardness and water resistance, finishes fall roughly in this order: wax, oil, shellac, consumer lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, then commercial lacquer. Oil, shellac and lacquer are the easiest to repair as subsequent coats will bond with previous ones. MMD3 posted:I'm also trying to find a suitable coating for the interior of this aquarium stand which is all bare mdf. I'm not expecting it to be 100% waterproof but since I'll have the canister filter and other aquarium supplies inside of the stand I'd like it to be at least fairly water repellent in case of spills. MDF will act like a sponge and swell if in direct contact with water or even high humidity so I would recommend you do waterproof at least the horizontal surfaces.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 03:20
|
|
|
Tung Oil: Now I'm a novice so this isn't expert advice but the things I've built, largely out of white oak that's been kiln dried, I just put tung oil on. The dry time for me is 24 hours between coats, but I usually speed it up a lot once it stops being tacky to sandpaper. For the last fairly large scale project I made which was a while ago, I took the raw lumber, cut/joined/etc to get the table, and then wiped the whole thing down with mineral spirits to get sawdust and crap off. Let that dry (takes a minute) then liberally wiped on pure tung oil. Give it a minute to soak in, maybe two, then wipe off the excess. Once it dries, about 24 hours in a dry woodshop, sand with 2-400 grit lightly just to take off unevenness. Put on another coat, repeat procedure. I think I put five coats on and it was glassy buffing between final coats. Its really not hard or mysterious, find some scrap and try out different finishes on it. edit- MDF will fail BADLY if it gets wet. Serious waterproofing especially under a tank if its load bearing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 15:28
|
|
|
wormil posted:When buying oil finishes, just because tung is in the name doesn't mean it has any tung oil in it. Pure or 100% tung oil takes months to dry, smells a bit and can wrinkle if applied too thickly. Then there are tung oil finishes that may or may not (usually not) have any tung oil and will be some combination of varnish and/or boiled linseed oil (BLO) and thinner (usually mineral spirits). The more oil in the mixture, the softer and less water resistant the finish. A pure oil finish is not very water resistant and not scratch resistant. You can improve scratch resistance a bit with wax. I've got laminate applied to the top and sides, the front will be black walnut, the only exposed areas are the interior and back of the stand which I'll apply spar varnish to per optikalus' recommendation. Tons of people have built aquarium stands out of MDF so I'm trusting it'll do the job. I've also got 3 vertical 2x2's holding it up and it's only going to be a 17 gallon tank so... ~150lb. It should be plenty strong I'm thinking. Here's a photo prior to applying laminate to the top.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 19:04
|
|
|
From what I've read, pure tung dries enough to put on another coat after 24 hours, but to totally and completely be dry it does take maybe a month, but ca be usable in the meantime
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 20:26
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Tons of people have built aquarium stands out of MDF so I'm trusting it'll do the job. Are you sure you're not thinking of particle board? Or the people who are saying MDF is fine are thinking of particle board? Particle board is pretty standard fare in the mass-produced furniture market. It's lots of little particles of wood, all glued together. MDF, on the other hand, is super-fine wood dust with resin as a bonding agent. I know a guy who owns an aquarium store, and all the stands are made of particle board (except the ones that are solid wood.) Not a single one was made of MDF. Particle board, while it may swell and disfigure, won't be completely compromised when it gets a little wet here and there, unlike MDF. To be clear, particle board:  and mdf:  If you've seen MDF aquarium stands in person, well, good luck to them (and you) but if you're reading accounts on a forum somewhere from people who have built a particular design and they're saying, "I built it out of MDF," I would seriously question whether or not they know what they're talking about (they may not know the difference between particle board and MDF, lots of people don't.) If you can keep it bone dry and seal it up all to hell, maybe it'll last, but in my experience, the increased humidity in the immediate vicinity of your average fish tank is enough to potentially compromise the integrity of MDF. It may take a while, and it may not be consistent enough to actually mush it, but it could easily sag and deform and when you go to move the fish tank some day, you may find that the stand is falling apart in places. Or it might collapse before then. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Aug 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 20:28
|
|
|
Not an Anthem posted:The dry time for me is 24 hours between coats... I should have said, months to fully cure. MMD3 posted:I've also got 3 vertical 2x2's holding it up and it's only going to be a 17 gallon tank so... ~150lb. It should be plenty strong I'm thinking. You'll be fine as long as you also waterproof any inside surfaces that could come in contact with water. I mean that stuff really is like a sponge and once it swells there is no going back. A couple drops here and there aren't going to hurt anything but over time it can add up and since you're going to varnish the back anyway...
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 04:08
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Are you sure you're not thinking of particle board? Or the people who are saying MDF is fine are thinking of particle board? Particle board is pretty standard fare in the mass-produced furniture market. It's lots of little particles of wood, all glued together. MDF, on the other hand, is super-fine wood dust with resin as a bonding agent. I know a guy who owns an aquarium store, and all the stands are made of particle board (except the ones that are solid wood.) Not a single one was made of MDF. Medex.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 07:07
|
|
|
wormil posted:I should have said, months to fully cure. I ended up going with this, going to apply 2-3 coats to all exposed surfaces. I'm also going to place the canister filter which will be inside the stand on top of a towel and set it inside some kind of tupperware container or something. The back of the cabinet is open and the canister will be sealed tightly so humidity shouldn't be an issue. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it but I'll definitely check the edges of the mdf periodically to look for swelling. worst-case scenario I'll have to rebuild the stand with plywood reusing the black walnut doors. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Aug 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 16:26
|
|
|
Here's some wood porn, this is the face all finished with the Danish Oil. If you're using Firefox the colors should be more accurate than Chrome... In Chrome it's lacking a lot of reds since Chrome isn't color managed browser. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 16:40
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Here's some wood porn, this is the face all finished with the Danish Oil. If you're using Firefox the colors should be more accurate than Chrome... In Chrome it's lacking a lot of reds since Chrome isn't color managed browser. Looks pretty much the same to me?  Still some nice looking boards.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 16:54
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:Looks pretty much the same to me? you mean between browsers? hmmm, maybe img.ur compressed further, well, they have more red in person at any rate. typically my photos on flickr are correctly color balanced in firefox but not in chrome. MMD3 fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Aug 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 17:42
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Here's some wood porn, this is the face all finished with the Danish Oil. If you're using Firefox the colors should be more accurate than Chrome... In Chrome it's lacking a lot of reds since Chrome isn't color managed browser. You can really build up a high gloss with tung by buffing before it gets tacky and LIGHT 220+ sanding just to get the bumps out, hitting with light mineral spirit rag to get the dust off again, then adding more layers. Lovely wood though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 23:35
|
|
|
Not an Anthem posted:You can really build up a high gloss with tung by buffing before it gets tacky and LIGHT 220+ sanding just to get the bumps out, hitting with light mineral spirit rag to get the dust off again, then adding more layers. Lovely wood though. I think I want to stick with a satin finish. Pretty happy with them how they are now, think they've got 4 coats each at the moment. The final coat I polished a bit with 0000 steel wool and kept buffing a bit as the oil bled out every 10 minutes or so until it was dry. Does anyone have experience with euro style hinges? I've got a set of these so I can mount the doors full overlay and I'm just wondering if the doors which are a little less than 3/4" thick can be flush in the center or how much of a gap I'd need between the two doors to ensure they can open cleanly with this type of hinge.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 23:47
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Does anyone have experience with euro style hinges? I've got a set of these so I can mount the doors full overlay and I'm just wondering if the doors which are a little less than 3/4" thick can be flush in the center or how much of a gap I'd need between the two doors to ensure they can open cleanly with this type of hinge. They don't look quite the same, but TWW has a video that includes mounting euro style hinges. He mentions a 1/8" gap. This article on hinges from Rockler might help too: http://www.rockler.com/articles/understanding-hinges.cfm
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 00:41
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Here's some wood porn, this is the face all finished with the Danish Oil. If you're using Firefox the colors should be more accurate than Chrome... In Chrome it's lacking a lot of reds since Chrome isn't color managed browser. Looks identical on both browsers here. I believe the hosting has to support color management as well. Nice grain. I agree with a satin finish.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 05:26
|
|
|
Anyone ever made a Recurve Bow? I'm looking to make one for my brother for his wedding and I found a few videos online, but nothing that great.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 14:44
|
|
|
So a few pages back I asked about aging wood. I decided not to go with the strange stupid methods of coffee and dirt. This past weekend I took my girlfriend to HD and Lowes to buy a couple pieces of wood and some stains. We ended up with the Minwax Golden Oak and Special Walnut stains. We scraped up the wood in a couple places and tried different combinations of the two stains. G.O. over the S.W, and vice versa. Our goal was to see how the stain looked over the dents and dings we created and how each stain highlighted those. The wood was not smooth, but you could feel the grain quite nicely which is what she wants. I bought a piece of birch because I like the way it looks. Anyway, here are a couple pictures to give you an idea of what all we did. No I just need to give them a couple coats of poly to make the final decision and start the project. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 17:36
|
|
|
edit: nevermind
hayden. fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Aug 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 18:12
|
|
|
Not a big fan of fake aged but the staining looks good. Which one is the favorite so far?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 21:28
|
|
|
MarshallX posted:Anyone ever made a Recurve Bow? I'm looking to make one for my brother for his wedding and I found a few videos online, but nothing that great. There's an archery thread in TFR you might want to check out. I know people there have built longbows but not sure about a recurve.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 02:44
|
|
|
So I've been reading this thread from page 1 for a couple days now, and around page 53 it's suggested to skip cheap table saws and just get a miter saw and/or a circular saw instead. It seems like there's a lot these two can't do, but maybe I'm not thinking creatively enough. Can anyone expand upon the reasoning behind this, and whether cheap table saws are really worth skipping? If it matters I'm mostly interested in making boxes and smaller furniture. From what I've read online using a dado blade isn't suggest for miter or circular saws, and it seems the blade is the best way to make many joints, especially finger. Resawing wood seems like it'd be really difficult with a circular saw, too. hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Aug 31, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 03:50
|
|
|
jvick posted:So a few pages back I asked about aging wood. I decided not to go with the strange stupid methods of coffee and dirt. This past weekend I took my girlfriend to HD and Lowes to buy a couple pieces of wood and some stains. I don't blame you. There is something to be said for fuming white oak but otherwise I'd just go with BLO, the sun, dye, or stain. Stain really has about 4 main uses... simulate aging, emphasize pores (or nicks & dings in distressing), match heartwood and sapwood and to de-emphasize grain in commercial furniture. Dye is nice because you can mix colors and it doesn't obscure the grain, it's also super easy to apply. BLO will accelerate oxidation. The sun will darken wood. MarshallX posted:Anyone ever made a Recurve Bow? I'm looking to make one for my brother for his wedding and I found a few videos online, but nothing that great. I want to say that the upcoming issue of Wood magazine has a feature on bow making. hayden. posted:...I'm mostly interested in making boxes and smaller furniture. Mostly it is the motor which will be loud and relatively underpowered and the fence which will not hold alignment. The former can be overcome with thin kerf blades and shallow cuts but a poor fence is tough to workaround. Inexpensive portable tablesaws are really made for rough carpentry. You might be able to find an older Shopsmith for less than a new tablesaw. You can also use a router for boxes.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 09:53
|
|
|
wormil posted:Mostly it is the motor which will be loud and relatively underpowered and the fence which will not hold alignment. The former can be overcome with thin kerf blades and shallow cuts but a poor fence is tough to workaround. Inexpensive portable tablesaws are really made for rough carpentry. You might be able to find an older Shopsmith for less than a new tablesaw. You can also use a router for boxes. I don't understand why people don't just make their own fences out of wood, or is wood not rigid enough to be as accurate as needed?
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 13:42
|
|
|
hayden. posted:or is wood not rigid enough to be as accurate as needed? Matthias Wandel think its plenty rigid and accurate enough to build a complete bandsaw out of it [wood]. I don't think a fence would be problematic. I'll be making one for my cheap table saw and see how it turns out. Can't be worse than the POS that came with it. My biggest problem with my table saw is that the blade does not track perfectly straight. I've been using it delicately. It gauges and burn the work pieces very bad because of that. It's really only designed for rough sawing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 16:22
|
|
|
jvick posted:No I just need to give them a couple coats of poly to make the final decision and start the project. Just remember whatever wood you end up using, save a tiny sliver of scrap to repeat the stain on just so you know what it looks like, every species of wood stains differently.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 16:31
|
|
|
IsaacNewton posted:Matthias Wandel think its plenty rigid and accurate enough to build a complete bandsaw out of it [wood]. I don't think a fence would be problematic. Straight relative to the slides, or straight relative to the fence? If the latter, you should be able to adjust the fence to be parallel to the blade, which will can help with the burning and such. Unless it's an older saw like mine, for which the original fence was not adjustable in that way. (I put a modern, fully-adjustable fence on and it's like sex now.)
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 16:42
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Not a big fan of fake aged but the staining looks good. Which one is the favorite so far? Yeah, I've got the impression it's a love or hate technique. I don't mind it too much, but I hate that my gf keeps saying "I want it to look like an old pallet." Pallets are made out of poo poo wood and splinter. They are not what you would want to make a coffee table out of, HGTV is just glorifying them. To answer your question, I really liked the look of the birch, but that'll be the wood for my new desk. On the wood she picked out, I liked the Golden Oak over the Special Walnut. Sorry these are cheap cell phone pictures, only camera I have right now.  She liked the Golden Oak stain that she went over with Special Walnut to highlight some parts:  The 3 horizontal marks you see in this I did after the stain. Don't ask me why.... jvick fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Aug 31, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 18:15
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Straight relative to the slides, or straight relative to the fence? I'm talking about wobbles, I suspect that the bearings are not perfect, or that the shaft going through the motor has a slight kink. It was a cheap saw after all.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 18:39
|
|
|
Oh, wobbles. Just for kicks, make sure your arbor isn't damaged (dents/dings) and the washers and nuts are all clean, and there's no crud on the blade where the washers press against it. If you have a feeler gauge, you can check to see if the arbor itself is actually wobbling (unless it's real bad and you can see it with just your eye.) If it's not, then the problem is in the blade itself (or possibly the nut/washers) and should be easily fixable. Heck, even if the arbor is bent, you ought to be able to fix that without breaking the bank, depending on the saw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 18:43
|
|
|
hayden. posted:So I've been reading this thread from page 1 for a couple days now, and around page 53 it's suggested to skip cheap table saws and just get a miter saw and/or a circular saw instead. It seems like there's a lot these two can't do, but maybe I'm not thinking creatively enough. Can anyone expand upon the reasoning behind this, and whether cheap table saws are really worth skipping? Every tool has one (maybe a few) things that it does very well, other things it can be made to do but are less convenient, and things it could do but are not very safe. In a perfect world everyone would have both space and money to get all the tools they wanted, but in reality everyone has to compromise. Table saws are very common and so people have a lot of experience making them do lots of different things. If you keep an eye out on Craigslist and yard sales you may be able to find a good quality used table saw for cheap that just needs some cleaning and tuning. You might also consider a router and router table for dadoes and other joints. Cheaper than a table saw and it has a lot of other uses.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 19:11
|
|
|
hayden. posted:I don't understand why people don't just make their own fences out of wood, or is wood not rigid enough to be as accurate as needed? The fence material isn't the problem, it's everything else, how firmly it grips the rail, how well it resists force. In an old fence review I was reading they suspended a sledge hammer like a pendulum, let it swing several feet into the back end of the fence and then measured how far out of alignment the fence might be. Seems like a severe test but the very best fences had negligible movement while some very good fences didn't fair well.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 20:28
|
|
|
So with the help of this thread and lots of reading I've come to the conclusion that cheap power tools kind of suck, and have decided on getting hand stuff instead (chisels, files, planes, coping saws, etc). Sticking a (nicer) power drill, (cheap) drill press, and (cheap) router for power tools and hope to do everything else by hand. I'm not making anything big so hopefully this will work out. The only real hangup I have is with planes. Even new $60 Stanley ones only have so-so reviews, and anything "good" is like $150+. Will new Stanley planes really rape and murder my family, or are they fine with a little tuning? So far my plane is to start with a No.5 jack plane and a smaller block plane, but let me know if that's a bad idea.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 21:25
|
|
|
hayden. posted:So with the help of this thread and lots of reading I've come to the conclusion that cheap power tools kind of suck. . . It really depends on what you get. A cheap palm sander is just as good as a $300 model, as is a skill saw or a corded drill or a drill press, belt sanders, etc. Where you get into trouble is when you need small tolerances, or you are using something that is going to take a beating or get a ton of use. Biscuit Joiners, Routers, Table Saws, Chop Saws, Jig Saws, Table Planers, Cordless Drills, air compressors, etc. These are things that you might want to spend a few extra bucks on. I know a guy who has a yellow tool room. Everything is DeWalt! While I'm sure that a lot of his stuff will last forever or never give him any problems, he could have saved a lot of money and gotten other things as well by going with a slightly cheaper brand with some tools (like the ones I mentioned above). Then again, if one has the money, might as well get the best! p.s. if you ever see an old Black & Decker drill, skill saw, sander, etc. that is all metal (from the 70's-early 80's) pick that poo poo up right away! They will literally outlive you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 21:57
|
|
|
Thanks for the reply Blistex. Here's a question: How do I resaw board wood thickness-wise without a band saw / table saw? Most of it is 3/4" to 1" thick which is pretty thick for small boxes. edit: apparently the answer is a frame saw and a lot of sweat for content here's some sweet Woodright's Shop videos: http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/schedule/28season_video.html hayden. fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Aug 31, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 22:08
|
|
|
If you are on a tight budget you don't need anything cordless. A corded drill will do pretty much anything for you. I also think cheap air compressors are fine. As long as you run small thing like staplers or nail guns on it and isn't planning or spray painting with it. Getting quality nail guns on sale, like Hitachi ones from Lowe's, also help. The air consumption is drastically lowered compared to cheap Chinese guns. I bought a 2" finishing nailer for 40-50 bucks I think. 1/10th of the price I would have to shell out here. A cheap palm sander isn't as good as a $300 one but it's a palm sander, not a space shuttle. It will do. Same with a Skil saw. A more expensive circular saw with a aluminum base plate, better blade and more juice is better but the Skil will do just fine. Otherwise I agree with Blistex' list. Look for quality tools on sale. (Just from a tool nerd perspective, I'm simply a woodworking voyeur at this point)
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 22:48
|
|
|
hayden. posted:The only real hangup I have is with planes. Even new $60 Stanley ones only have so-so reviews, and anything "good" is like $150+. Will new Stanley planes really rape and murder my family, or are they fine with a little tuning? I've never used a quality plane but I have flattened & smoothed tables with a tuned up (mostly flattening the sole) Stanley bench plane and it worked fine but you need the blade sharp. I imagine the biggest difference would be in blade quality and adjustment but I don't use planes often enough to really check into them. I do often wish I had some specialty planes like rabbets, etc. There is also the option of making your own wooden planes, a nice one was posted several pages back.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 23:02
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:If you are on a tight budget you don't need anything cordless. This right here! I don't know how many people I know who have picked up cheap "cordless sets" with drills, flashlights, skill saws and whatever else, only to have the batteries stop taking a worthwhile charge and then finding out that every 2-3 years that company changes their batteries (how they attach) so you have to get all new tools instead of replacement batteries. This is one instance where getting a DeWalt would be a good idea since they never change their batteries. If you are a home workshop guy, stick with corded tools (drills are always the exception since I am constantly using them to drive or remove screws).
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2011 23:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 05:26 |
|
|
Don't worry all, I stick with corded stuff. Batteries are annoying and break and can run out of charge and make the drill heavier. wormil posted:I've never used a quality plane but I have flattened & smoothed tables with a tuned up (mostly flattening the sole) Stanley bench plane and it worked fine but you need the blade sharp. I imagine the biggest difference would be in blade quality and adjustment but I don't use planes often enough to really check into them. I do often wish I had some specialty planes like rabbets, etc. There is also the option of making your own wooden planes, a nice one was posted several pages back. I have sharpening stones for knives and it seems they'll work well for planes, so I'll be sure to do that. Making my own planes would be fun and I've asked on a blacksmithing forum the type of steel I should use for the blade, but so far only unhelpful condescending replies that old grumpy men on the internet are masters at. Thanks for the feedback.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:00
|
|