|
In my pursuit of squaring away deficiencies left from the previous owner of my LGT, I picked up a spare key/transmitter. I got it trace cut by a locksmith and figured the manual would not lead me astray as to what is needed to be able to use my shiny new key. Here's the deal, my car recognizes the transmitter now and allows me to lock, unlock, open the trunk, and turn on the panic alarm. What it doesn't do is allow me to start the car. The  SECURITY light is illuminated with the key in and flashes when the transmitter is used. What the hell is going on?gently caress, the retard previous owner had lost the metal immobilizer ID tag and the ID is needed to register my new key. All I managed to do was program the transmitter, not the immobilizer. This is going to get expensive. Terminus Est fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Aug 27, 2011 |
#
?
Aug 27, 2011 23:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 16:42 |
|
|
jamal posted:and I don't really know many places on the east coast. This makes me sad. Once I get a new DD I want to build some wild poo poo for my RS but Jamal is on the other end of the country and it makes me sad. Some work I just can't do myself and I can't trust anyone else not to be a complete shithead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 01:31
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:
I owned one of these. Great car but I'm not sure I see the point in flying to pick one up. Inside it's the same as any other Forester. If you can find a turbo Foz locally for cheap, buy some wheels, a poly lip and the sports grille and pocket the difference. One day when I have millions I will buy a WRB XT Foz, throw goldies on there with an STi scoop, drop it and never buy another car again.  so pretty
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 02:25
|
|
|
Re: Sway Bars I have 22MM front set to the 22.5mm setting and 22mm rears on the 22mm setting with an ALK and I do not notice push though I havent been to an autocross with it yet. Have been through quite a few entrance and exit ramps.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 18:29
|
|
|
kylej posted:If you can find a turbo Foz locally for cheap See, that's the problem right there. I don't think he was looking especially for the STi package - just finding an XT with a manual is very tough. And when you do find one, the owner often isn't willing to budge on the price.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 18:43
|
|
|
dphi posted:See, that's the problem right there. I don't think he was looking especially for the STi package - just finding an XT with a manual is very tough. And when you do find one, the owner often isn't willing to budge on the price. Are they? I sold mine for $19,500 a year ago (private party). Was basically flawless inside and out with something like 25 or 30k miles. Be patient, deals are out there. Obviously check the https://www.subaruforester.org classifieds too, there are some good people over there. What would cause a WRX strut to make a creaking sound at low speeds? My rear passenger strut area is creaking in stop and go traffic. The strut and spring are brand new, so I assume it's a bolt that needs to be tightened somewhere. I see tons of threads with this question at NASIOC and it's hard to find a decent answer. kylej fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Aug 28, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 20:07
|
|
|
kylej posted:Are they? I sold mine for $19,500 a year ago (private party). Was basically flawless inside and out with something like 25 or 30k miles. Be patient, deals are out there. Obviously check the https://www.subaruforester.org classifieds too, there are some good people over there. Check the top bolt. If they are brand new, the installer might not have tightened it fully. This is the big bolt, not the three smaller bolts holding the top mount to the chassis. Do not over-torque those or you will be sorry.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 22:34
|
|
|
dphi posted:See, that's the problem right there. I don't think he was looking especially for the STi package - just finding an XT with a manual is very tough. And when you do find one, the owner often isn't willing to budge on the price. I hadn't seen one within 500 miles of me for months then randomly checked autotrader to see a DGM XT with a 5 speed 2 miles away. 2008 with 30k miles, drove away with it for $17,000. I knew it would be hard to find, but I never realized it was "rare" until checking the Forester boards.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2011 22:46
|
|
|
I came across one visiting some family in Florida a few months ago. My girlfriend laughed at how it looked like my car, and I had to explain how that was the point. Needless to say, my hunger for a clean old legacy wagon or a clean FXT grows with age. I've been trying to spot a third gen legacy and pretty much every single one I come across is an auto outback. Sorry for the low quality cell phone pics.   
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 00:45
|
|
|
I don't know if this is the exact correct place for this but it's definitely Subaru related. I'm in the process of getting rid of my 06 WRX TR - I love the car to death but it has been through a new third gear, a first new transmission, a second new transmission, and finally a new center differential, new transfer case & new transaxle. Thankfully all under warranty. I purchased an extended warranty through 2013 but my dealership has communicated that Subaru of America is only going to get more difficult to deal with and less likely to honor my warranty. I really hoped I could drive the car into the ground over the next decade because it was such a pleasure. Particularly because I'm convinced my previous 02 WRX saved my life. Back in 06 a Forerunner heading the opposite direction hit an icy patch and fishtailed into my lane. The car collided head on with my vehicle; it then continued on with such force that it cleared the guard rail. My car bounced off the rail and came to a stop, on fire, a couple hundred yards later. I don't remember the accident but I managed to escape with a broken right tibia, a left ulna in 6 or 7 pieces, and a severe concussion. I'm pretty much fine now - I ski, run and bike without any problems. Like I said, though, without the safe car I was in at the time, who knows what would have happened. After that, I was sure that I wouldn't own anything other than a Subaru ever again. And now I've arrived at today where the most disappointing thing about this whole process is that no one from SoA has ever phoned me to say "hey, sorry we gave you a lemon". Rather than acknowledge that their product hasn't lived up to expectations, they suggested I abused the car despite the fact that there is no evidence and that it simply isn't true. My car is stock with the exception of the head unit and snow tires in the winter. I meticulously maintained the thing because I wanted it to last forever. I loved that car to pieces as only a kid who managed to afford his dream car in his 20s can. I'm sure they get plenty of assholes who improperly mod the car and when it blows up, bring it in sheepishly to the nearest Subie dealership so maybe they deserve some leeway. Even so, no one from any dealership or SoA has ever acted like they had any responsibility for the poor reliability of my car. This whole experience has been as disappointing as I could imagine. Regardless, this past weekend has convinced me that it isn't SoA who is out to get me but rather the universe. On Wednesday I dropped my WRX off at a body shop to fix the cracked front lip and detail the car in order to sell it. On Saturday morning I get a car from the body shop information me that, on Friday night, an ex-employee had stolen my car and drove it 45 miles away where it was then towed and impounded  . They are giving me the bumper and detail for free now but I have to take Monday off of work to go deal with this. Finally, the police officer I spoke to initially believed my car was involved in an attempted murder, only to later realize he had his case numbers mixed up.All in all, the time I've spent driving my WRX has been an absolute pleasure (not to mention its unstoppable in Oregon winters) however, it is clear to me now if I don't get rid of this car the universe as we know it may end.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 03:01
|
|
|
Wait, they stole your car and all you are getting is a free bumper and detail? But yea, that car is cursed. Run, run as far as you can.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 03:08
|
|
|
Yeah definitely sounds like a current employee wanted to take it out for a spin and got busted speeding or racing or something and the shop tried to save their rep. Hopefully you have better luck with whatever you replace it with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 03:14
|
|
|
c355n4 posted:Wait, they stole your car and all you are getting is a free bumper and detail? I pushed. They originally offered half off. I suppose I could sue but I don't think it would be worth it and I really just want to be done with this car. I'll lodge a complaint with the BBB but I don't know how much good that will do. On another note, how common are WRX reliability issues? My mechanical knowledge is somewhere between "reads consumer reports ratings" and "can change my own oil". Is it one of those things that, with very careful maintenance, you can get lucky and they'll last a long time?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 03:29
|
|
|
Good news, everyone! There was a new GT-R with race tires at the autocross today. She (a beast, but experienced club treasurer) only beat me by 1.709 sec in a 54.699 (for me) sec course!  I had a professional instructor who is a member of the club and generous enough to ride with me twice help me out. The lady with the GT-R was down to let me ride along, but I was working while she was driving once, and then we were in the same heat but she was right behind me in the grid so it was impossible. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 03:54
|
|
|
SteveMcQueen posted:I pushed. They originally offered half off. I suppose I could sue but I don't think it would be worth it and I really just want to be done with this car. I'll lodge a complaint with the BBB but I don't know how much good that will do. My experience is the cars themselves are quite reliable but dealership mechanics are the opposite. I had a similar situation where the car is totally stock and perfectly maintained. Taking it to the dealer for warranty work would cause more and more issues. Even totally unrelated new problems. My car was past the mileage for a lemon law hearing but an attorney who does lemon stuff took my case to Subaru. I was successful and felt vindicated. Something is better than nothing and don't discount time, grief, and devaluation of your car. That poo poo matters. Those bastards did nothing for me besides utterly ignore my emails and requests until they had a lawyer breathing down their neck. I will reiterate my mantra: Do all the work you can yourself and then go independent. Motherfuck the dealership. I'm having my car fixed out of pocket even with 40,000 miles left on the warranty. They just refuse to do good work and have proven themselves untrustworthy to me.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 05:09
|
|
|
I'm parting out my 2010 STI if any of you gents are interested in buying modzzzz - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400145&pagenumber=25#post394967471 It's been fun but it was time for something more comfortable and commute friendly. I'll be back I'm sure and keeping my eyes open for a 2.5rs project car. Thanks Jamal for all the advice!
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 05:14
|
|
|
I just bought a 2010 STI. What do I want from you for starters?? (I have no idea what I'm doing and will have to pay a shop to do the install work, no garage) edit: This actually brings me to a bigger question: I want to keep my warranty intact. What can I upgrade and what can't I? What projects would be good for me to do on my own in the driveway vs. what I'll want a professional garage to do? Anyone know any such garages in Eastern PA? I am so in love with this car it's not funny. Would love to see what a few bucks and some  will get out of her.Flu Roo fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 05:23
|
|
|
Flu Roo posted:I just bought a 2010 STI. What do I want from you for starters?? When I bought my STI I knew gently caress-all about installing stuff and working on cars. Every last thing in my thread I installed on my own in order to learn in either my driveway or a friends. It was a great learning experience and I don't think it should be above anyones skill level frankly. Warranty wise you can safely install things like a catback, springs, coilovers, wheels, sways, etc... The Accessport will get you some more power and as long as you uninstall it before bringing the car in for service is supposedly undetectable by a dealer, but frankly the cars are pretty solid overall and I think most people run at least stage 1, in fact it's generally recommended by folks as it's a safer tune than the one that comes from the factory. Downpipe and intake are bit more risky as they're not as easy to remove prior to having the car serviced. You can avoid most issues with this by changing your own oil and taking care of the simple stuff on your own. Stage 1 is a great transformation for the car, Stage 2 is ridiculously good, drat near perfect in my mind. You want an anti-lift kit, roll center adjust (RCA kit) and a front and rear sway which will make the handling, steering, and overall stability of the car amazingly good. And, of course visually you can make the car look like a menacing machine which I will miss about mine -  allonblack fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Aug 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 05:42
|
|
|
Lowclock posted:Yeah definitely sounds like a current employee wanted to take it out for a spin and got busted speeding or racing or something and the shop tried to save their rep. Hopefully you have better luck with whatever you replace it with.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 06:31
|
|
|
Is that a catback or an axleback? I don't see the midpipe. I'll take it off your hands if you can't sell it locally and shipping to NJ isn't too much.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 13:15
|
|
|
OK so I need to decide today on what I'm doing with my WRX (spun rod bearing) 1) Buy new crank and set of bearings $500 1a) Possibly gasket set ~$250 (at the least will need HGs) 1b) Possibly piston rings/etc if they're needed once everything is apart ~$100 + ? for honing 2) Buy new shortblock for $2k 3) Buy local JYD block for $4-600 Option 1 looks like it can snowball into being really pricey and a pain in the rear end... but at least then I know it's done right without it costing as much as option 2. Option 3 is easiest and least expensive but a huge question mark as I want the engine to last me at least another 3 years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 13:53
|
|
|
Option 4: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-9...=item336b1002dc Buy this, sell my trans, sell my heads, sell the turbo and IC it comes with... and come out at the same price but end up with a way stronger transmission and motor. Yikes. This looks to be a good deal, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 16:54
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Option 4: Those engines can be a crapshoot. I got lucky with an imported JDM 4G63 for an Eclipse 10 years ago. It had perfect compression and worked like a new engine, but I also was able to see it in person and hand pick the best engine out of a dozen they had. I'd be weary of buying an engine of unknown history without being able to physically check it out yourself first. At the least do your research on this JDM Engine Depot company to ensure they check out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 17:46
|
|
|
The place is local so I can go and take a look. I can't figure out if this engine has AVCS. Looks like the V7 definitely did, this is a v5/v6.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 17:50
|
|
|
Picked up a used Subaru High performance engine this weekend. Was great during the Hurricane.  
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 18:00
|
|
|
Blaise posted:OK so I need to decide today on what I'm doing with my WRX (spun rod bearing) Why do you think you need a new crank? How bad is your crank? How bad is the rod and/or main cap with the bad bearing? Option 1 also has the option of being ridiculously cheap. No matter what that engine needs to come out. Pull the engine, take a look, post pictures, and ask this question when we can give meaningful answers. Yea you'll need to overhaul the engine but you'll come out with a fresh engine for not much money so long as you dont need to go replacing the crank/rods/endcaps. You may find that the rod is fine, the crank journal just needs to be polished and you can replace it with factory STD bearings. You may find you need to cut the crank and replace a rod and the cyl walls are worn so you need a whole rebuild. Wont know until you get it out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 18:02
|
|
|
Sorry, wasn't specific enough. The crank is ugly. It's beyond being polished, would need to be cut. The rod cap looks okay. I'll be splitting the block tonight... I can share photos then. The engine is out and the pan is off but I haven't split the block yet.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 18:16
|
|
|
drat that's too bad. How are the cyl walls? Think you could get away with std pistons and rings? What are you goals at this point? You could walk away from this with a built motor and it'd be at a time when you actually need it. The run it until you break it then make it stronger mentality. This is the most expensive option, but if you plan on keeping the car long term and continuing to upgrade it, it is also your best option. You'll still need to get the crank cut, and will probably spend an extra $1500-2000 building a motor for racing but you'll leave with a motor built for racing. You can make it REALLY fast and you'd get some of the back when you sold the car as it'd have a built motor. ...of course if you did that you'd need to upgrade you clutch and 5 speed if factory so there's another $2000... ...when you give a mouse a cookie.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 19:30
|
|
|
That's exactly why I liked the option of the EJ207 motor. I really liked the setup I had (VF30 and supporting mods) and didn't want to throw more money at it. If I bought that EJ207 with the much stronger STi trans (5MT was pretty decent), I could sell my EJ205 heads, transmission, the extra TMIC, turbo, injectors, etc and recoup a lot of the $2000 that the swap costs, and I'd gain some power and a lot of transmission reliability in the process. I'd have to make sure I could keep it OBD legal though and figure out what kind of rear end I need. I'm either set on that swap or simply rebuilding my EJ205 at this point, a junkyard EJ205 is out of question (at least the 207 has a 30 day warranty). I don't know how bad the cyl walls are until I split the block tonight.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 20:23
|
|
|
There is a blobeye WRX here with an EJ207 swapped in. I think they had some problems with the twin-scroll header but I'm sure you could bodge a single-scroll manifold to make it work.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 20:26
|
|
|
That's probably a V7, this is a V5/6.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 20:27
|
|
|
Yeah, now that I think about it it did have AVCS. There are some sellers on NASIOC who have complete swap kits for STI 6-speeds, including driveshaft and rear diff, but they're (obviously) pretty expensive.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2011 20:43
|
|
|
The v6 is open deck, isn't it? Does it have the same forged internals the v7 does? I have driven a v7 ej207 and it is my favorite Subaru motor.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 00:37
|
|
|
daslog posted:Picked up a used Subaru High performance engine this weekend. Was great during the Hurricane. Watch your piston rings.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 01:02
|
|
|
blargle posted:The v6 is open deck, isn't it? Does it have the same forged internals the v7 does? I have driven a v7 ej207 and it is my favorite Subaru motor. Yep, open deck and no AVCS. However, fully forged internals, and more aggressive cams. And it'll work with the USDM WRX ECU if you swap the cam/crank gears and run the USDM intake manifold/etc.  Looks like a nice option.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 01:33
|
|
|
I just test drove an 07 STI limited with ~19,000 miles. I'm not interested in leather but I thought I'd check it for the relatively low miles. I've never driven an STI of that vintage so anyone familiar I'd like an opinion. My 09 WRX was noticeably faster and much more smooth on the drive home. I listened to the motor idle with the hood up for a minute and it sounded fine. I gave it the beans a few times and almost every time the tach swept past 4,000 RPM the power kind of cut in and out. I felt like the clutch was majorly slipping so that may be it? Should a well maintained STI of this era feel about the same or faster than a 08+ WRX? I was really underwhelmed. I know the gearing is quite different but could a seat of the pants comparison be made between an older STI and newer WRX?
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 02:11
|
|
|
Any 07 that's been on the stock tune most likely has a broken ringland by now, avoid unless you get a compression test or plan on swapping a new motor in. They do have a superior rear suspension to the new generation.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 02:45
|
|
|
Sounds like there's something wrong with the car. It should feel at least as fast as an 09, and pull pretty smoothly to redline. If the clutch was slipping you'd have the tach shoot to redline without the car going anywhere.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 02:47
|
|
|
(((k))) posted:If your thinking 08 WRX I'd say yes you would regret it. The 09 has many meaningful differences (power among others) making it a much better choice. In general you would get a better deal private party. I have an 09 WRX wagon that I'm preparing to sell. If you are interested PM me for some more info etc. I'm going to order an STI when it's in the system so it will be a few months before it will be delivered. Ugh, I have an 08 and this is the kind of market I'm facing... Edmunds says it's worth $15800 but I don't think anyone will bite at that price.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 02:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 16:42 |
|
|
oh man http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2233047
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2011 03:14
|
|