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jamal posted:oh man So what's your opinion? His data log says 30mph :O
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 04:03 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 01:54 |
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The only reason I could see tire shine causing issues (which I highly doubt it can) is if he tire shined the entire tire, which would be really weird. But this is NASIOC after all....
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 04:18 |
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zantar posted:Ugh, I have an 08 and this is the kind of market I'm facing... Edmunds says it's worth $15800 but I don't think anyone will bite at that price. There have been guys who sold 08 WRX 5-doors for $18-20k locally in the last year.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 04:18 |
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I just can't read NASIOC anymore. I don't want to know about these people who can afford a car that costs 50% more than I make in a year. And some of them even breed.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 04:45 |
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Why the gently caress doesn't GST return my phone calls? As for tire shine, my car wash put some tire shine on my tires and tread. I did drifto a right turn at 20 mph on accident. But I don't suck at driving, so I managed to not crash. That stuff wears off in like a quarter mile.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 06:27 |
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Note to self, tire shine to burn out.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 07:30 |
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BoostCreep posted:
Figures that my work schedule was super light the past 2 months, and then the one day this car pops up for sale I find myself stuck in a never ending project that keeps me pulling all-nighters at work and unable to get myself out of the state. Seriously, this project should have ended a week ago and I'm still at work at 12:36am trying to finish my renders for the day. So what does this all mean? This Forester was sold well before I could even get a chance to go to the bank to start the loan process. I guess I will have to wait another couple years for one to come up for sale. Maybe next time it will only be 2,000 miles away.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 08:38 |
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jamal posted:oh man The OP is the LEAST stupid person in the entire thread. Why the gently caress did I read even a 1/6 of that pathetic dribble?
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 10:24 |
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zantar posted:Ugh, I have an 08 and this is the kind of market I'm facing... Edmunds says it's worth $15800 but I don't think anyone will bite at that price. Really my comment only applies to performance minded used Subaru buyers. The used market is crazy right now and is the best time to sell. Subaru really made the 08 a bastard.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 14:22 |
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I bought that 02 WRX I posted earlier in the thread. I have found it has a few quirks that need working out. 1. Stalls first thing in the morning. It has happened twice now, as I was coming down the hill out of my house. It basically stops running, like turning the ignition off. I was still rolling down the hill at that point, and the engine was turning 2k rpm, so it wasn't that the idle was too low or something. 2. Pinging when semi-cold Right after the car has started (restarted in this case) I can do whatever, run up the rpms and use the throttle. After the water temp has come up, it will buck and ping any time it should be going into boost. After a while it will work fine (such as when you take it for a test drive and get it out of the guys neighborhood). 3. Seemingly low power Probably related to everything else, it doesn't seem to have much kick. I haven't driven anyone else's wrx but it seems to have less power than my fiance's 9-5 wagon that has an aero turbo but no proper tune. 4. Clock doesn't work Clock is broken so I was thinking I could take out that thing and put in a boost gauge and a clock. I use the clock almost more than the rest of the gauges because usually when im in the car Im trying to go somewhere. What pod or whatever do people put there? 5. Stock exhaust Eventually I want something that sounds better but doesn't drone. Whats the recommendation for a decent exhaust? Same line of questioning, is there a decent guide for "You want to start making your wrx go faster"? I found one that was awful so that didn't help. e: Do I want this? http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/pts/2540920693.html blindjoe fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Aug 30, 2011 |
# ? Aug 30, 2011 20:23 |
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The clock is an easy fix if you don't want to go aftermarket pod. http://jasonrowe.com/2007/02/17/subaru-wrx-2002-digital-clock-fix/ You just have to re-solder a single connection.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 20:51 |
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Your stalling, pinging, and low power could possibly be something as simple as a bad o2 sensor. I looked back a couple pages and didn't see anything about this car, but if you just bought a 10 year old turbo car you might just want to look into freshening all the normal wear items. Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, o2 sensors, etc. Also your fiance's Aero has a 2.5 liter which will give you much more seat of the pants feel than your 2.0.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 20:59 |
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BoostCreep posted:Your stalling, pinging, and low power could possibly be something as simple as a bad o2 sensor. I looked back a couple pages and didn't see anything about this car, but if you just bought a 10 year old turbo car you might just want to look into freshening all the normal wear items. Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, o2 sensors, etc. Also your fiance's Aero has a 2.5 liter which will give you much more seat of the pants feel than your 2.0. O2 sensor makes sense I guess, it might need more time for it to get up to temp if the heater is out. Are the O2 sensors in these cars heated? It is a 2002 WRX wagon, 150k miles -new timing belt/idlers/waterpump done the day before I bought it -owned by one of those guys who takes it to the shop for everything and handed me a stack of receipts totalling thousands of dollars -at 60k miles it burnt a valve and he got everything rebuilt and a new clutch and timing belt -I will go over the regular stuff eventually but it would be nice to drive it a bit so I can pay off some of my credit card haha. Clock fix looks great, I will do that first then get a pod thing so I can have a boost gauge.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 21:19 |
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It was recommended that I change my oil after autocross last weekend. 2011 STi has 1640 miles, first change at 982. I autocrossed for a total of 6.5 minutes. Did run up against rev limiter a couple times. Should I change it?
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 22:36 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:It was recommended that I change my oil after autocross last weekend. 2011 STi has 1640 miles, first change at 982. I autocrossed for a total of 6.5 minutes. Did run up against rev limiter a couple times. I would, but I'm anal about these types of things.
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 22:38 |
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blindjoe posted:O2 sensor makes sense I guess, it might need more time for it to get up to temp if the heater is out. Are the O2 sensors in these cars heated? check or have someone check that the timing belt is on correctly. check that all the little vacuum and pcv lines and hoses in the engine bay are connected and not cracked there's no check engine light?
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# ? Aug 30, 2011 23:55 |
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jamal posted:check or have someone check that the timing belt is on correctly. No check engine that I see, but I haven't noticed it when firing it up either. Where in the console should it be? Is there an easy way to check if the timing belt is on right without taking everything infront of the engine off?
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 00:06 |
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take off the coolant overflow tank and then you can get both outer covers off. Each cam pulley has a single hash mark and a double hash mark. The single hash on the intake gears will point straight up at notches in the timing cover. The double hash mark will point straight down at another set of hashes in the lower pulleys. They're not going to be all dead perfect but should be within half a tooth or so. The marks on the belt will not line up with anything. The writing on the belt should be lined up so you can read it facing the front of the car. Also it's much easier to put a socket on the alternator to turn the crank than the crank pulley when the radiator and fans are on. find someone with an accessport or generic odbii reader to see if there are any stored codes.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 00:58 |
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selling some stuff in my garage: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400145&pagenumber=25&perpage=40#post395026846
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 02:34 |
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Getting the timing belt done and getting a quote. Just want to say gently caress you norcal and you ~$110 hourly rate. Anything missing? Water pump Thermostat and gasket kit Timing belt Right smooth Idler Pulley Lower Left Cogged Idler pully Tensioner Koyo Radiator Upper and lower Radiator Hoses Coolant 4 hours of very expensive labor For some reason, i thought there were 4 pulleys, or does that include the pump and tensioner? This time I'm making sure they change by goddamn disgusting overflow tank. Soon I'll be able to tell I have coolant without opening the tank (I hope)
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 04:19 |
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nm posted:
There are. There's a small idler on the top driver's side between the AC and the waterpump. That one is usually the first to go because the early ones were single bearing. As you can see, there are 4 idlers total. Two are larger smooth ones of the same design, one toothed one, one small one.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 05:08 |
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Interesting day. Went to check out a speedshop. Met some apparent Subaru celeb tuner named Andy Brahy and bought a AEM cold air intake and a Cobb Accessport. A good start I think. Next will be down/up pipes and a catback. What should I line up on deck after project number 2? Suspension? If so- what would pay off in street handling the most? I don't want a car 2" off the ground... This car is a riot. I'll never go back.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 05:40 |
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Flu Roo posted:What should I line up on deck after project number 2? Suspension? If so- what would pay off in street handling the most? I don't want a car 2" off the ground... What year? It looks pre-2011, so: Personally, I think suspension is a good choice, as it's cheap compared to some of what you'll have to do for more power after a downpipe. I recommend whiteline front and rear sways if you can get a good deal on them - their product and customer service is great in my experience. The internets also seem to say that RCE's are good, though I have no personal experience with them. Swaybars on these cars are nice, in that they're relatively cheap and pretty easy to install (I feel like they are automotive repair confidence builders after having done them myself). If you know you'll be hard on them, endlinks might be good. The "anti-lift" kit sold by whiteline is supposed to be great as well, though it will cause some problems with autocross classing if you're competitive.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 07:41 |
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car already has a non catted uppipe so it isn't worth the labor. definitely do the turboback and a tune though. suspension: Whiteline ALK RCE Springs Swaybars (rce or whiteline) alignment short shifter and shifter bushings
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 10:15 |
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Flu Roo posted:
Find a way to gently caress off the SI-Drive. A very limited mods STI can belt around extremely quickly, much quicker than you would realise but from what I've experienced the best mod on a MY11 of any sort is turn the loving "driver aids" completely off. I've also witnessed it actively try to kill a very experienced racer when it decided "Nah gently caress you, I wanna do my own thing". The MY11 I have my eyes on is a VERY distinctly better car with TC off. Otherwise CASTOR CASTOR CASTOR and alignment, forget sway bars, nice springs, call it a day.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 13:16 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Find a way to gently caress off the SI-Drive. A very limited mods STI can belt around extremely quickly, much quicker than you would realise but from what I've experienced the best mod on a MY11 of any sort is turn the loving "driver aids" completely off. I've also witnessed it actively try to kill a very experienced racer when it decided "Nah gently caress you, I wanna do my own thing". The MY11 I have my eyes on is a VERY distinctly better car with TC off. Whiteline has gotten rave reviews and I definitely plan to use them for the applications that match what I want. Suspension it is. On the SI-Drive- What do you mean? It makes the car uncontrollable? I've actually been having a good time with it. I've found that Sport# can be a little hard to handle so I've been living in Sport for the smooth linear acceleration. "I" is for chumps and people who can't afford fuel. I want a boost gauge now that I understand what it does. I do not want it in some tacky place so I look like a 16 year old with too many toys. I'm now addicted to modding this car. Went out and bought a good tool set (my first good tool set, in my mid thirties, pathetic) and I'm looking forward to installing my intake and updating ECU with appropriate map tonight. Now if I could just find a place to practice drifting.... e: Yes it's a 2010.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 14:07 |
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Once you have that map and the intake on there, make sure you do some 2nd and 3rd gear pulls to redline with the AP logging anything knock related (IAM, feedback knock, fine knock lean) right away. Don't rely on any canned map to be right for the car, it'll probably be fine, but better safe than sorry.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 15:29 |
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Why does my coolant overflow tank cost $70? It isn't pressurized and it is made of the cheapest of plastic. Subaru!
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 22:27 |
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Flu Roo posted:
It bites you on the rear end when you least want it to - plus the fact is that Subaru cant make chasssis electronics for poo poo, which isnt a bad thing as the underlying mechanical engineering has absolutly NO need for it. So if you want to explore what the chassis wants to offer, the electro garbage nannies will spoil the party. Even if the current body style is soft cocked compared to the 06-07, dancing on the limit and balancing the car with the throttle is an experience that rates with the best of any in a car I've had (which is why I am so ferally for Subarus in general and so insistant on the whole you dont need mods, learn to exploit it as its a fuckton faster than you suspect) and one the nannies explicitly stop - and this also reduces your ultimate cornering speed AND the ability to play tricks to entice more speed out of the chassis. SI-Drive is the reason why I dont run to a new STI. Let alone how an MY10 STI went backwards off the road because the SI-Drive decided that the car was in an uncontrolled slide and did the exact reverse of what the driver was doing successfully - it cut power, when gassing it as hard as possible was exactly the right answer. Gripped, snapped, bye bye. And really damning is at Wakefield Park in NSW, you could predict how the chassis nannies would toss a STI hatch around and just wait with the camera for the spin. Every single time - and yet same driver (greatly experienced too) in another de-nannied car, no problem. Find a way to be rid of the nannies, learn how the chassis can give you more than you think, slight correction mods, call it a day and enjoy.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 23:31 |
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All SI-drive does is change throttle response.
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# ? Aug 31, 2011 23:41 |
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Welp, got the intake installed. Had a little trouble getting it into the wheel well and scratched up the screens a bit, but it kept in 1 piece and didn't throw any knock codes doing a bunch of 2nd and 3rd gear redline pulls. (Thanks for the advice there btw) The horsepower gain feels huge to me. Not sure if that's the intake or ECU map. Stupid question of the year: Does a 2010 STI have a blowoff valve? Sure sounds like it, which seems much more pronounced now. (I read somewhere that Subaru's don't like blow off valves)
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 02:15 |
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It may be a BOV, but after putting an intake on my MS3 the BPV had a pretty pronounced sound to it.
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 02:49 |
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Disassembled motor today. Rod bearing #3 is melted. Crank obviously looks bad. Cylinders 2 and 4 look great in every way. Cylinder #1 has significant ringland damage. Heads look perfect. Those cam gear bolts were a bitch. Safe to say it's best I start looking for a block.
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 03:54 |
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Flu Roo posted:Stupid question of the year: Does a 2010 STI have a blowoff valve? Sure sounds like it, which seems much more pronounced now. It has a bypass valve still. You can just hear it better through the intake. But why did you buy an intake???? I thought the current STi/WRXs still didn't like to have their intakes screwed with...
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 04:00 |
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Blaise posted:It has a bypass valve still. You can just hear it better through the intake. I assume he's running the Cobb Stage 1 + AEM tune which is a decent bit more power than just stage 1. Flu, I sent you a PM. I'm selling a bunch of stuff off my 2010 STI.
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 05:36 |
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allonblack posted:I assume he's running the Cobb Stage 1 + AEM tune which is a decent bit more power than just stage 1. OK thanks, I'll check it out. And yes, I'm running Cobb stage 1 + AEM Tune map.
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 13:33 |
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bull3964 posted:The clock is an easy fix if you don't want to go aftermarket pod. This worked perfect and fixed the clock. Working on getting my ob2 reader back. Found the check engine light does turn on when starting the car, so no obvious problems. Some previous owner removed the passenger side airbag and the hvac pipes that run under there to make a secret compartment made out of dynamat. How do I get it back together? Easy as finding some guy parting the interior and pick up the parts?
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 17:30 |
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The traction control on the STI can suck but it can actually be helpful if you put it in "green" mode. That way it doesn't control any acceleration but will help in braking. I experimented with it once at autocross practice doing runs with it on and off. On the ~40 second course I tried a few runs with the traction control completely off first, then put it in "green" mode and it immediately took about another second off my time. With it in "green" mode you can tap the brake mid corner and instead of making the car understeer like it normally would, it will rotate the car in the direction you're turning like magic and let you get back on the gas. If I forget to change the mode and leave the traction control completely on I can always feel the lack of power and response in turns and will almost always get a slower time and think there is something wrong with the car.
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# ? Sep 1, 2011 22:43 |
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Friends sketchy 2.2 found in a trunk of a junkyard car. Blackstone:
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# ? Sep 2, 2011 04:27 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 01:54 |
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Slow is Fast posted:Friends sketchy 2.2 found in a trunk of a junkyard car. That seems pretty good considering the source. I am not sure if the copper and lead is bearing material as there is no tin which there should be as the bearings are usually bronze...maybe those are copper aluminum though. If the viscosity is low seems like there may be some blow by as well but I am not sure how much lower those values should be wr whats considered normal. They didnt give you notes on the values? Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Sep 2, 2011 |
# ? Sep 2, 2011 04:37 |