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Painted one of the Chaos Dwarfs. So far its only base colour + washes. Not sure about the metals. I think the bronze doesn't look drab enough so I'll probably try boltgun (or mithril) + gryphonne sepia and badab black. Also, the surface of the mask is rough as gently caress, but I think they are getting better. This was one of the first masks I made from my mold. I realized after starting painting this thing that I need to do something with the shield, but if I try to free-hand a motif I'll surely spend hours painting a light colored motif on the dark red and then gently caress it up at the last moment  
Not a viking fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Aug 30, 2011 |
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Aug 30, 2011 19:02
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Not a viking posted:I realized after starting painting this thing that I need to do something with the shield, but if I try to free-hand a motif I'll surely spend hours painting a light colored motif on the dark red and then gently caress it up at the last moment Better than loving up a dark-coloured motif on a light-coloured background surely? You could get one of the guys with ALPS printers to do some decals for you for the shield. (You need ALPS for the white backing, as regular printer ink is transparent).
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Aug 30, 2011 19:37
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Not a viking posted:Painted one of the Chaos Dwarfs. You could try a hand print design that would lend itself to being smudgy and incomplete:  You might even try to make a tiny hand stamp to apply it with since you will be doing it on many shields.
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Aug 30, 2011 20:12
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For the paint judging we provided players with a guide. The score sheet we followed can be found here. Judging was split into three categories (army, best painted model, most heavily converted model). Every army was judged twice, and then the top 5 were set next to each other for a final round to pick the best. Our goal was to focus on the technical proficiency of the armies for the scoring aspect, since that would determine the Renaissance Man award, and then we would subjectively judge the Top 5 to decide the winners of each category. Players were only allowed to win one award each, and we had several overlaps that needed to be addressed. For example the guy who won 40K Renaissance Man was also going to win Best Army with his IG army converted to look like Cobra, and he also had a model in the running for best painted model (Destro) and best conversion (a missile launcher converted to look like one of the Dreadnoks). The armies were basically split into three levels. There were the players who would just slap on 3 colors and call it a day, there were others who would focus on getting things to tabletop quality, and then finally we'd have the guys who would really put effort into things and go for the top tier. I'd say maybe 10% of the armies tried to go above tabletop. drat near everyone brought some variant of a Space Marine army, which made it really easy to tell where the mold lines were. In terms of judging the first thing we'd do is take a look at the overall appearance of the army. We'd check for consistency (no borrowed models, everyone looking like they belong together) as well as a general theme (which was pretty much impossible to not get). Then we'd bring out our flashlights and check for highlights, mold lines, clean paint jobs, details, everything. There were basically 5 levels of scoring worth 15 to 55 points. The first two levels were for folks who put in the minimum effort. 15 points if you got your 3 colors, and then 25 if you did highlighting on a few models or slapped a wash on everyone. 25 points is the maximum a player would get if I found mold lines or they failed to drill or at least paint their barrels. Once we had reached the third level my job was to find reasons not to give people points. Every model had to be highlighted and properly prepared (thin paints, no mold lines, barrels, etc) to reach 35 points. To reach 45 points required that every detail be covered and the paint job be extremely neat. We would run into a lot of players who would let their paints bleed into one another, or use a wash and not bother to go back and highlight the raised portions. Out of the hundreds of armies I judged maybe 5 managed to reach the 55 point mark. At this point I would check for EVERYTHING. Every detail would need to be picked out, paint jobs would need to be immaculate, and we would expect to see details picked out that might not even have been molded. For example a lot of ork models don't have fingernails molded onto their weapon hands; we would check that they were added. We would also expect practically flawless blending and lightsource appropriate highlighting at this level, as well as other advanced techniques. The quantity of models was irrelevant. If a player brought 100 orks and didn't paint the fingernails on the inside of the hand pressed against the torso of a shoota boy, I noticed it and docked them points. We would also give points for a display (up to 5), quality basing (up to 10), and whether or not the units were distinguished from one another (theme, cohesion, and organization were worth a total of 25 points). Most players didn't bother with unit markings, or would do something like paint the bases a different color. Conversions were worth another 5 points if the army had a lot of them. Occasionally a player would ask me to talk about what I was looking for, and it was usually a fairly depressing conversation. I would find mold lines they hadn't considered, or details that they had forgotten to paint, or show places where the blending or highlighting was sloppy. The worst part is that these would be the guys who had really nice paint jobs, but my job was to nitpick and so I did. I always stayed positive and made sure they knew that the level of scrutiny I was giving them was because they had reached a level of quality that deserved it. Once the scoring was done we would take the top 5 armies, models, and conversions and bring them to be judged for the winner. At this point we were allowed to incorporate our own preferences. For example one player had done Tron Marine highlighting extremely well and ended up in the Top 5, but he wasn't chosen for top army because none of us like that style of painting. In the end it was a competition between Gabe Dobsin's Cobra Guard Army and Keith Gorham's Tallarn IG Army. Gabe actually won, but then he got Renaissance Man so the Best Army award went to Keith.
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Aug 30, 2011 20:35
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:
This reminds me of scale, and to a slightly lesser extent, anime figurine and mecha modelling. You will get this exact sort of critique on forums that cater for that sort of thing. Forgot to fill that seamline in that gundam's crotch armour that no one will ever see unless you go upskirt? Your model sucks. Didn't drill out and replace all your model's plastic cabling with scale-appropriate metal wire? Lazy poo poo. Surface of model even the slightest bit rough? Crap job. Miniature wargamers are pretty much the bottom of the pile when it comes to modelling. Your average scale modeller is better than your average gundam modeller who is better than your average wargame modeller in terms of attention paid to detail, techniques executed and appearance of the final product. You can really see this when those people with backgrounds in modelling something other than pure warhams does wargamer stuff. The Forgeworld modelling, while obscenely good by wargamer standards, is AFAIK pretty run of the mill among scale modellers. However in our defence, we do model and paint models which are meant to be handled, and hence can't have all the fancy bells and whistles you would be able to apply to a static diorama model. I can see the reasoning for that frankly insane level of judging detail though, it's incredibly easy to paint wargame models to a high-tabletop or middling/low grade display level given the time and inclination. It's less about skill and more about determination when it comes to painting a good looking army, as no one (outside a painting judge) will scrutinize the entire assembly from more than an arm's length. And at that distance, there comes a point of diminishing returns between effort and result. Biggest point would be eyes, you can spend a frankly crazy amount of effort and paint eyes on an entire army, or just wash the crevice and leave it at that, In a game, no one will notice that your 150 Cadians don't actually have eyes. Hence the judging has to be incredibly insane and anal-retentive. They want to reward those who have put a truly herculean effort into their army and haven't simply settled for "just good enough".
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Aug 30, 2011 21:19
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about judging paint jobs
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I think the best reason to have a very detailed and exacting scale like that is so that when some fat ham corners the judges in a huff about why they didn't win, you can pull out the rubric and say 'well, you consistently failed to drill your barrels and your cat-girl conversions had noticeable gapping, so that brought you down below the guy with a COBRA fan-force'.
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Aug 30, 2011 21:24
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I read that as "cat-girl conversions with noticeable gaping" and shuddered.
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Aug 30, 2011 21:26
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Over the weekend I was at the NOVA Open as a volunteer, and one of my jobs was being an appearance judge. There were some pretty amazing armies (and a hell of a lot more mediocre ones). If you guys want I can talk about my experiences, and provide some tips on what we looked for in terms of judging. Please do so. A buddy of mine won an invite to the tourney but couldn't attend, so I'd like to hear about it.
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Aug 30, 2011 21:36
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Definetly more satisfied with mithril+washes than with dwarf bronze:  Compared to the first one:  The pictures had to be white balanced because its night time now and its still on a lovely cell phone pic, but I think it gets the idea across Now to find some cool CD runes I can paint on the shields. edit: This was the seventh picture when I GIS'ed "chaos dwarf"  e: Well, that wasn't so hard  Any help in how to get it more "realistic" looking? I don't have a lot of experience with free-hand painting aside from a few skaven banners. Not a viking fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Aug 30, 2011 |
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Aug 30, 2011 21:42
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I used pigments all the time on scale WW2 tanks. When I started using them on miniatures, I discovered that getting them to stick can be a painful and unpleasant experience, mostly because hey, I never had to do that with a model that was essentially a shelf-queen.
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Aug 30, 2011 21:46
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The best part? At three feet they all look really similar. Unless you're comparing an ultra-gritty devlan mudfest to a tron marine you really won't be able to tell much difference until you get six inches away and are shining flashlights down missile tubes and other stuff. This was actually the first time I had ever done appearance judging, and the other guys were more on the scale modeling world who just happen to like 40K. None of the models I judged would have won a Golden Daemon, but then again the Golden Daemon competitors don't have to worry about paint chipping because their models went through 20 hours of gaming before final judging. Everyone I talked to was really appreciative of the comments I provided, and for me it was really inspiring to have a better understanding of what a "quality" table top army really looks like. If the average wargamer followed half the advice this thread provides it would really step up the standards. On the other hand most of those guys had no interest in the painting side of things beyond just wanting the three color minimum and getting their scores done. And I can respect that.
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Aug 30, 2011 21:50
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:The best part? At three feet they all look really similar. Unless you're comparing an ultra-gritty devlan mudfest to a tron marine you really won't be able to tell much difference until you get six inches away and are shining flashlights down missile tubes and other stuff. Some of the NMM and crazy blending stuff you can't even see unless you take a photo because your eyes just can't focus on it. I get the feeling that all the ultrafancy Confrontation stuff would look really muddy in the "flesh" because of how all the colours sort of blend together over and over. GW and Foundry really have it down when it comes to "Wargaming" miniatures. 3-level shade applied reasonably neatly and in bulk will win over wet-blending any day for an army.
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Aug 30, 2011 22:06
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Z the IVth posted:The Forgeworld modelling, while obscenely good by wargamer standards, is AFAIK pretty run of the mill among scale modellers. Phil Stutcinskas is one of the best military modellers in the world, and he designs and paints for Forge World. Take a look in the IA Model Masterclass book for some of his 40k work. It may or may not be to his competition quality, but it is incredibly good.
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Aug 30, 2011 22:07
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Phil Stutcinskas is one of the best military modellers in the world, and he designs and paints for Forge World. Take a look in the IA Model Masterclass book for some of his 40k work. It may or may not be to his competition quality, but it is incredibly good. I've read the book, and it kinda feels the same level as the various "masterclass" articles that you can get in scale modelling magazines. So high quality modelling, but it doesn't look all that extra-special that I would have thought someone doing high-level competition work would have. I was going to show off some examples of good quality Gundam modelling, but most of my links have died... ugh.
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Aug 30, 2011 22:42
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Bachtere posted:Disgustingly amazing dinosaurs Incredible paintjob. Also, I envy your ability to not suck at painting skink eyes.
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Aug 30, 2011 22:56
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Z the IVth posted:I've read the book, and it kinda feels the same level as the various "masterclass" articles that you can get in scale modelling magazines. So high quality modelling, but it doesn't look all that extra-special that I would have thought someone doing high-level competition work would have. http://dc23-mecharts.blogspot.com/2010/12/obliteration-of-solomon-by-eddy-lai.html I found some stuff! 
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Aug 30, 2011 22:59
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Not a viking posted:Any help in how to get it more "realistic" looking? I don't have a lot of experience with free-hand painting aside from a few skaven banners. The runes? See how the Chinese characters are written. It's all in the brush stroke  Also: I just noticed that the left dwarf has a lot of chest hair... Pierzak fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 31, 2011 |
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Aug 30, 2011 23:55
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i've just painted my first set of miniatures ever and am quite happy with the job i did but i found it very hard to to the high detail/tiny areas without getting any paint on other things that i wasn't supposed to. i used this set from GW to get started: http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470005a&prodId=prod920007a i was wondering if i would benefit alot from different/more brushes or should i just stick to one brush for now and work on more miniatures with my one brush until im extremely comfortable with it?
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Aug 31, 2011 00:52
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whocares8310 posted:i've just painted my first set of miniatures ever and am quite happy with the job i did but i found it very hard to to the high detail/tiny areas without getting any paint on other things that i wasn't supposed to. Get a second brush for details, also don't drybrush with a normal brush (you'll ruin it).
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Aug 31, 2011 01:06
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Pierzak posted:Get a second brush for details, also don't drybrush with a normal brush (you'll ruin it). so i should get a smaller brush for details and one of the larger dry brushes. is the GW brush set worth it or should i pick and choose my brushes? i noticed on pages like this that the brushes are sized by number whereas on the GW site the brushes are given generic names and no number is associated with them. http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-series-7-kolinsky-sable-pointed-round/
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Aug 31, 2011 02:10
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GW brushes are overpriced for what they are. I still use mostly GW brushes that I inherited from other people, however, and they're fine for basic stuff. Large and small drybrush for basecoating and a standard brush for most of my painting, but Winsor and Newton for details, highlighting, and freehand.
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Aug 31, 2011 02:21
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Crosspostin' some Genestealers I just finished for the Oath thread: Also, a friend and I have been discussing Necrons recently and he brought up a color scheme I thought might be interesting, so I did up a test model:  Thoughts?
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Aug 31, 2011 02:40
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Z the IVth posted:Some of the NMM and crazy blending stuff you can't even see unless you take a photo because your eyes just can't focus on it. I get the feeling that all the ultrafancy Confrontation stuff would look really muddy in the "flesh" because of how all the colours sort of blend together over and over. Part of the euro/confrontation painting style is heavy blacklining to delineate the super blends from each other. It gencon i saw a shitload of awesome models, and a lot of the euro style stuff really popped out at a distance. All my PP fanboy bullshit aside, the biggest surprise for me was matt dipietros studio models. Grouped together by faction in the glass case they glowed like sexy nerd gems. They are phenomenal in person.
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Aug 31, 2011 02:43
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Chenghiz posted:GW brushes are overpriced for what they are. I still use mostly GW brushes that I inherited from other people, however, and they're fine for basic stuff. Large and small drybrush for basecoating and a standard brush for most of my painting, but Winsor and Newton for details, highlighting, and freehand. thanks for the info. hopefully i can find someone with some GW brushes they are getting rid of at a very low price and aren't too beat up. I'd hate to spend $70.00 on nice brushes and not use them properly/ruin them.
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Aug 31, 2011 03:18
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whocares8310 posted:thanks for the info. hopefully i can find someone with some GW brushes they are getting rid of at a very low price and aren't too beat up. I'd hate to spend $70.00 on nice brushes and not use them properly/ruin them. The thing is, if you buy them from dickblick.com or a similar art supply warehouse, those super-nice W&N best brushes in the world are like 8 dollars apiece, which is less than the GW brushes I think. So if you're going to pay that much for brushes you may as well get ones that are worth it. I probably have 50 brushes banging around because I have some disease where I can't leave an art supply store or a Michael's without buying a brush, but I only really take care of my Series 7s, the rest get treated like poo poo.
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Aug 31, 2011 03:32
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Dominion posted:The thing is, if you buy them from dickblick.com or a similar art supply warehouse, those super-nice W&N best brushes in the world are like 8 dollars apiece, which is less than the GW brushes I think. So if you're going to pay that much for brushes you may as well get ones that are worth it. most of the GW brushes you actually need are about 4-5 bucks, I haven't had any issues with them personally
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Aug 31, 2011 03:49
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I converted and painted this dumb deffkopta: 
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Aug 31, 2011 05:15
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PierreTheMime posted:
Packers Necron is pretty cool.
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Aug 31, 2011 06:15
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PaintVagrant posted:Part of the euro/confrontation painting style is heavy blacklining to delineate the super blends from each other. It gencon i saw a shitload of awesome models, and a lot of the euro style stuff really popped out at a distance. Any pictures of this stuff? This discussion is going right over my head.
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Aug 31, 2011 09:09
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PierreTheMime posted:Also, a friend and I have been discussing Necrons recently and he brought up a color scheme I thought might be interesting, so I did up a test model: Z the IVth posted:I've read the book, and it kinda feels the same level as the various "masterclass" articles that you can get in scale modelling magazines. So high quality modelling, but it doesn't look all that extra-special that I would have thought someone doing high-level competition work would have.      I have the Gundam model in this diorama. It is not a big model. Those human figures must be like, microscopic.  "Hey, I like that spaceship they introduced in the new series. I know, I think I'll build a 1:1200 scale model of it from scratch."     But I'm most impressed by this one.  It's a guy in a suit Wish I could paint even a fraction of the level these dudes do. But they must have some SERIOUS airbrushing equipment to pull some of those effects off. Captain Invictus fucked around with this message at 10:49 on Aug 31, 2011 |
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Aug 31, 2011 10:45
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Nothing a few Shadowswords can't deal with. 
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Aug 31, 2011 11:02
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Shadeoses posted:Nothing Fixed that for you.
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Aug 31, 2011 12:05
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Pierzak posted:vortex missile You're a madman!
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Aug 31, 2011 13:54
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ghetto wormhole posted:You're a madman! I'm not. I just happen to fancy warp and bio weapons. (Be happy that I didn't mention the virus grenades. That was some good poo poo)
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Aug 31, 2011 14:16
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Is there any place I can get like, a clean front/side black and white image of a Leman Russ? Google's not helping too much. Everything's at an angle. I want to concept some designs before I go through with painting the one I have.
Babe Magnet fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Aug 31, 2011 |
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Aug 31, 2011 14:19
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Fyrbrand posted:I converted and painted this dumb deffkopta: This is a really nice conversion. I like to vary my metals bit more than you do (ie, throw in some brass and gold and stuff) but the end result is still awesome. The patchy blue paint is cool. Are you planning to do any more?
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Aug 31, 2011 14:22
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Ashcans posted:This is a really nice conversion. I like to vary my metals bit more than you do (ie, throw in some brass and gold and stuff) but the end result is still awesome. The patchy blue paint is cool. Are you planning to do any more? Thanks man. I usually do add some other metals like tin bitz, but did this one in a big hurry. I originally planned to do more of these but I'm mostly burnt out on my orks right now so I'm not sure if I'll do more any time soon or ever.
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Aug 31, 2011 16:09
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Well I've gotten all my warhammer stuff together and not only do I have masses of stuff unpainted and out, I have a rather large amount still in their blister packs. I was wondering if it was ok for me to write down what I've got here and offer it to people a little bit cheaper, before I put it on ebay? Thought it would be nice to give the UK goons first dibs.
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Aug 31, 2011 17:01
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Not a UK Goon, but I'm always looking to save a few bucks in the long run. Whatcha' got?
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Aug 31, 2011 17:05
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Lethemonster posted:Well I've gotten all my warhammer stuff together and not only do I have masses of stuff unpainted and out, I have a rather large amount still in their blister packs. I was wondering if it was ok for me to write down what I've got here and offer it to people a little bit cheaper, before I put it on ebay? Thought it would be nice to give the UK goons first dibs. The best thing is to make a thread in SA Mart, and then link to it from appropriate threads here in Trad Games. In particular, either the 40k or Fantasy threads (depending on what you're selling), and/or this thread (if you're selling painting/sculpting/modeling supplies). Of course it's all optional, but that's your best bet to get the attention of lots of goons without doing anything spammish or annoying. Read the SA Mart rules sticky before making a thread of course.
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Aug 31, 2011 18:49
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