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Inspect the battery cables and if they're anything but clean, add some new ones to the list.
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Aug 21, 2011 05:49
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I was wondering if anyone in this thread had had much experience with post-facelift 440's, I've been offered one that looks ok aside from some dints and interior trim wear. However I was wondering if they had the same reputation as other Volvo's for immortality? And if there are any specific things that bug them? It's a one-owner car with full books that looks to have been decently maintained.
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Aug 21, 2011 12:30
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The engines aren't immortal like redblocks but they're not prone to anything in particular if maintained. Your priority should be making sure the suspension is straight, then checking the trunk isn't leaky.
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Aug 21, 2011 13:16
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What do you folks think about the longevity of the AW70/71? I'm looking at a 1995 940 NA 4-cyl today with 190k on the chassis, but an engine rebuild at 160k. The mileage is up there but it is on the way home so I figured I'd give it a glance. The guy wants $1800 and apparently it is in perfect condition (  ). I'm not even sure which transmission is in it. Some sources say AW70L and some say the same AW-71 as in the turbo for that year. edit: fairly certain it is the AW-71L. Still thinking it is probably a bad idea to buy an auto transmission with 190k. manboy fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Aug 21, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 19:20
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My AW70 is at 308,000 miles with no rebuild and having spent the last 70k (in just 3 years) delivering pizza and newspapers (and any papergunner will tell you that a job where you're paid by the paper with no set hours, police, or bystanders quickly becomes a private nightly autocross). Might rebuild it at 350k as a gift to my car (which should not be confused with needing it). I do change the fluid on the regular (pan drop drain and fill only, so it's a 'half at a time' fluid change) but the PO never did it once before I got it at around 200k. I love my 740.
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Aug 21, 2011 20:15
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For anybody who's interested, I've added a Volvo-specific chat room to SynIRC - join #TurboBricks on irc.synirc.net. I'm also trying to determine whether the crankshaft position sensor on my 940 Turbo is bad or not - a continuity check shows no continuity between either of the "hot" pins on the sensor and the ground pin, and there is also no resistance between ground and the "hot" pins ether. Brickboard confirms that these are both signs of a bad sensor, but being the electrical dunce that I am, I'd appreciate it if someone more experienced than I could comment as well.
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Aug 21, 2011 23:19
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stash posted:Yeah it's plenty easy in these engine bays, and 4AWG is more than big enough for this purpose unless you're running 4 15's in the trunk or something ridiculous, in which case you're upgrading/replacing the alternator and other stuff anyway. I don't think you need anything bigger unless you are running 5-10kW of amps, just makes things more difficult and expensive. In my last 740 I added 8AWG to the existing wiring and it was plenty. This was with a 1000W amp and 2 12's. If you have serious power I'd also recommend a capacitor to help with the spikes - that should have a more noticeable effect than bigger wiring. Alright, did a quick google search and found 4gauge is cheap compared to 0. Local place wanted 4.50/foot for 1/0 welding wire rofl. Should call back and check the $/ft on 4 gauge EDIT: Checked my 0 gauge run and looks like I have like 6 extra feet. I should have enough to do the big three. ExtremeODD fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 22, 2011 |
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Aug 21, 2011 23:44
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TheJeffers posted:For anybody who's interested, I've added a Volvo-specific chat room to SynIRC - join #TurboBricks on irc.synirc.net. No resistance between ground & hot is toast for sure.
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Aug 22, 2011 18:08
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What do you guys think of this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3984Q2em1439Q2el2649QQitemZ270802564010QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWNXQ3aIT Condition looks decent, worth the price?
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Aug 24, 2011 05:45
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$3700? Seems really steep, even in the claimed condition.
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Aug 24, 2011 07:02
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Saint Celestine posted:What do you guys think of this? $3700 for an 18 year old car with 184,000 miles on it? I don't see a problem. Just for example you could get this: http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/2562694971.html Which has half the miles, half the years, etc.
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Aug 24, 2011 07:45
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TheJeffers posted:For anybody who's interested, I've added a Volvo-specific chat room to SynIRC - join #TurboBricks on irc.synirc.net. I just read this again, how can you have no continuity between ground & hot as well as no resistance between ground & hot?
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Aug 24, 2011 08:28
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Cakefool posted:I just read this again, how can you have no continuity between ground & hot as well as no resistance between ground & hot? It's possible that there's infinite resistance and he's reading the meter wrong...
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Aug 24, 2011 17:54
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Saint Celestine posted:What do you guys think of this? No, god no. Among other things, where's all the rubber around the headlights, and why are they not even? Why's the roofline screwy over the doors? Why's the rear bumper rippled at the sides? The paint's a recent respray (look at the overspray on the ignition coil in the first engine bay photo), and it wasn't prepped well because it's already bubbling with rust again (look at the fender shot, in the wheel well). If it was a cheap enough job that they didn't prep it right, what rubber and trim did they paint over? The whole thing has been hell of detailed in some places and not in others, it's weird. Did they coat the black plastic and rubber in the engine bay with Vaseline or something? And if they went to all that trouble there, why not use it on the black plastic trim on the door pillars? Why no photos of the undercarriage, transmission or underside of the engine? Around here you can get a pristine one from a dealer with less miles for around $2.5k and DC is not a cheap place to buy cars. That's too much money even if it was totally on the level.
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Aug 24, 2011 21:03
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In terms of maintenance, do you guys ever seafoam your engines/transmissions?
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Aug 24, 2011 21:11
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Splizwarf posted:No, god no. I agree with your overall assessment that it's not worth it, but you're seeing a lot of stuff that isn't there man. The front headlights are definitely crooked, but there's evidence of a parking lot ding on the driver's side. Other than that the rest of your observations seem hypercritical. I didn't see overspray on the coil bracket (looks like rust to me), there's tons of evidence that it has NOT been painted (chip and scratches on the fender, rock chips up front, aged pinstriping) and I don't see anything wrong with the roofline or rear bumper, or any signs of rust bubbling. Makes me wonder if we looked at the same pics.
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Aug 24, 2011 21:23
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LloydDobler posted:I agree with your overall assessment that it's not worth it, but you're seeing a lot of stuff that isn't there man. The front headlights are definitely crooked, but there's evidence of a parking lot ding on the driver's side. Other than that the rest of your observations seem hypercritical. I didn't see overspray on the coil bracket (looks like rust to me), there's tons of evidence that it has NOT been painted (chip and scratches on the fender, rock chips up front, aged pinstriping) and I don't see anything wrong with the roofline or rear bumper, or any signs of rust bubbling. Makes me wonder if we looked at the same pics. After my last 740 (the blue one) I decided I'm better off hypercritical than just assuming everything's probably going to work out.  That's a lot of money for a car I can't see in person.Better too aggressive than hosed, right?
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Aug 24, 2011 21:44
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Sure, but it's like I say to my republican friends who like to say Obama is a Kenyan mobster communist. Hate him for actual problems, not fabricated ones. Hehehe. Bottom line that car was overpriced. My dad routinely gets over 3k for good condition 240s, but good condition means fresh paint, perfectly straight, low miles, clean interiors with no rips, and a full stage 0 tuneup.
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Aug 24, 2011 22:11
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Yeah, agreeing with Lloyd. Car looks decently overpriced but doesn't look like some sort of conjob. Unless they masked off that emissions sticker in the engine bay perfectly, which would impress me with a quick Maaco job... Offer them $2900 and see what happens. And what do you mean Obama isn't a kenyan socialist muslim vacationer golfhog? Perhaps you did not hear his wife wants people to eat healthier
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Aug 24, 2011 22:23
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A couple people posted:stage 0
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Aug 24, 2011 22:25
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Lowclock posted:Is there some funny joke behind this, or is there really a "stage" for being stock now? There's nothing funny about proper automobile maintenance.  [edit] Received the car today! Would post pics but it's currently thunderstorming. I know for the pre 1979 ones they have full service manuals online. Does anything like that exist for the newer ones? I have Haynes but I'm not sure if it will be complete enough. Corrupt Cypher fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 25, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 01:07
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Lowclock posted:Is there some funny joke behind this, or is there really a "stage" for being stock now? Not a joke. It's just how some circles (Volvo boards in particular, for some reason) refer to getting all routine maintenance items taken care of in one fell swoop, thus making it as close to factory-fresh as possible without rebuilding poo poo. It'll make any further modifications that much more effective. It is, however, a little :2f2f: for my tastes.
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Aug 25, 2011 01:25
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I think of 'Stage 0' as 'DePOing'.
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Aug 25, 2011 02:13
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I saw it as sort of a backlash to people saying "yo I just bought my ride what parts do I need to handle a stage 2 flash 4 turbo powah" and people being like "start at stage 0, replace your fluids, filters, and ignition wear parts". Too many people (esp in the volvo community) mod a car that is in need of a tuneup and then are helpless to troubleshoot it.
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Aug 25, 2011 06:26
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gently caress me sideways. Go to start me 2004 S80 today and the light comes on, says "Anti-skid service required." First time it's happened, so I turn off the car and start it back up to see if it goes away. Only a second after it starts, it dies again with Check Engine light. I try again to be sure it wasn't a fluke, and no luck. I give it 15 minutes and try again, and it doesn't even start. Just cranks and cranks. I unplug everything, turn off the radio, and try again and it cranks fine, though shuts off again, so I figure it's a dead battery. I get it jumped, and it turns on and runs fine. I check my messages, and I see the Anti-skid service required, and "Engine System Service Required." I give it a little gas, and though it's obviously revving faster, the tachometer doesn't budge an inch. Goons, what's wrong with my car, and how much am I going to go into debt to fix it? Quick googling suggests the ECU might be at fault for the anti-skid message.
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Aug 29, 2011 12:35
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Battery drain - check multiple warning lights - check high revs - check no tach - check the only two things that come to mind are ECU/Alternator. Do you have a scan tool to pull the codes?
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Aug 29, 2011 13:50
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Oxphocker posted:Battery drain - check I have an OBDII tool, will that get me what I need? Edit: I just tried reader, there were no codes. Torque said it could talk to the ECU, but I don't know. The Tach doesn't move AT ALL when I start it up. Everything was working wonderfully Friday, and now it's dead. It sat out in the sun, but if a weekend in the sun can kill the car, I don't know what to do. EVGA Longoria fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Aug 29, 2011 |
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Aug 29, 2011 14:21
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Could be as simple as a bad sensor. Dunno what it is, though.
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Aug 29, 2011 21:09
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Splizwarf posted:Could be as simple as a bad sensor. Dunno what it is, though. I don't quite think it's a sensor. I just jumped it and it turns on, and shuts off after about 2 seconds, like it was doing earlier. After the last jump, it stayed on fine for the minute or two I ran it before I saw the Tach problem and stupidly shut it off. What does this say? Unfortunately, I can't do anything with it until Thursday, but it'd be great if I could go in with an idea of what's going on.
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Aug 30, 2011 00:36
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If ECU isn't throwing codes and it's shutting off after a few seconds it's making me think either a sensor gone bad or maybe fuel pumps? Is it shutting down because of lack of gas getting to the engine?
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Aug 30, 2011 00:41
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I'm not familiar with anything about the S80 beyond the engine, so take all of the following with a grain of salt. You need to ensure that the engine is getting fuel, air, and spark. If the engine is anything like the I6 in the 960, it has a camshaft position sensor on the intake cam that's part of the ignition system. RockAuto lists both a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor for your car, but I don't know what purpose they serve on the S80. Either way, it seems to me like the car is missing a tach/RPM signal.
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Aug 30, 2011 00:59
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Oxphocker posted:If ECU isn't throwing codes and it's shutting off after a few seconds it's making me think either a sensor gone bad or maybe fuel pumps? Is it shutting down because of lack of gas getting to the engine? I am in Georgia, and the S80 did have a recall notice for fuel line issues. Need to check if it was ever taken in, now that I think about it.
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Aug 30, 2011 01:05
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My 89 240 - B230F - seems to run well but does not get great gas mileage. It seems to get low 20's with mostly city driving. Anything notorious I should look for because the only thing I can think of is oxygen sensor.
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Aug 31, 2011 20:41
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That's about as good as they get, unfortunately.
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Aug 31, 2011 21:02
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Yeah, my 89 240 only gets about that too.
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Aug 31, 2011 22:00
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Casao posted:gently caress me sideways. This was my battery being dead, replaced the battery and everything is super.
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Aug 31, 2011 22:20
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 So replaced a bad wheel bearing and it seems to have fixed a power steering leak on the other side of the car? I'm confused.edit: By wheel bearing i mean the Wheel Assembly hub on a 98 s70. zenless fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Sep 2, 2011 |
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Sep 2, 2011 15:18
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I would like to buy a 940 sedan with a turbo in it. What should I look for?
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Sep 3, 2011 02:27
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atomicthumbs posted:I would like to buy a 940 sedan with a turbo in it. What should I look for? Leprechauns.
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Sep 3, 2011 03:00
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atomicthumbs posted:I would like to buy a 940 sedan with a turbo in it. What should I look for? You look for a 940 Turbo.  To be more specific, 1991 940s carried over the intercooler and radiator setup from the 740 Turbo, which might be seen as inferior when compared to the 1992+ models, which received a revised, larger intercooler and radiator. 1992+ models also got an electric cooling fan. As far as the engine goes, 1993+ models got oil squirters, which assist with cooling the piston and reduce the incidence of piston slap over time. People will generally recommend that you look for a 1993 or later model to get the "best" 940. Other than that, all of the usual used car advice applies. Make sure that there's no rust, no visible smoke from the turbo or exhaust, no horrible oil leaks, etc. Best of luck.
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Sep 3, 2011 03:09
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