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 thank you by atomicthumbs, on Flickr  Transition by atomicthumbs, on Flickr HP5+, stand developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 90 minutes. Shot with a Spotmatic with a Super Takumar 55mm 1.8 lens (for the first one, and I think for the second one).
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Sep 4, 2011 00:10
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Cool, what ISO were that rated?
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Sep 4, 2011 00:34
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1600.
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Sep 4, 2011 01:05
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atomicthumbs posted:
Hey, Berkeley BART. You a student at Cal?
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Sep 4, 2011 04:54
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VoodooXT posted:Hey, Berkeley BART. You a student at Cal? No, I live in Marin. I don't have a car, so I had to take BART to Berkeley to go to Looking Glass Photo to buy the developer that this was developed in.
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Sep 4, 2011 04:58
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Things that rule: walking into a very small town CVS pharmacy for razors and toothpaste, and finding two rolls of 400 Tri-X for $2 apiece  They had three 4-packs of Kodak 200 for $5 each so I snagged those as well. Guessing they're getting rid of whatever they had left. Hard to complain with prices like that.
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Sep 4, 2011 23:24
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atomicthumbs posted:No, I live in Marin. I don't have a car, so I had to take BART to Berkeley to go to Looking Glass Photo to buy the developer that this was developed in. Speaking of Looking Glass, how's the selection on developers over there? I'm probably gonna go there in the next week or two.
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Sep 5, 2011 06:14
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VoodooXT posted:Speaking of Looking Glass, how's the selection on developers over there? I'm probably gonna go there in the next week or two. adonal (rodinal), acufine, diafine, d-76, xtol, microfine, perceptol, edwal thing, basic photographic chemicals for building your own developer, more stuff, etc
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Sep 5, 2011 07:59
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DJExile posted:Things that rule: walking into a very small town CVS pharmacy for razors and toothpaste, and finding two rolls of 400 Tri-X for $2 apiece in santa cruz cvs trix is 7.50 a roll, so i steal them.
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Sep 7, 2011 03:10
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OjaiYoda posted:in santa cruz cvs trix is 7.50 a roll, so i steal them. You know Arista Premium 400 is Tri-X, right?
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Sep 7, 2011 13:23
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Pompous Rhombus posted:You know Arista Premium 400 is Tri-X, right? Exactly. I bought a 10-pack of that for like $20 or something from Freestyle.
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Sep 7, 2011 13:30
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Do you find it easy to get cheap film in the US? I'm having a hard time getting over the "loving portra 800 costs 7 something euros" barrier.
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Sep 7, 2011 15:46
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Maverique posted:Do you find it easy to get cheap film in the US? I'm having a hard time getting over the "loving portra 800 costs 7 something euros" barrier. Shoot Portra 400 at 800. It'll do fine.
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Sep 7, 2011 17:27
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MrBlandAverage posted:Shoot Portra 400 at 800. It'll do fine. I always heard that Kodak films can push one stop with no ill effects, but I've never tried that with their color lines. I'll have to give that a spin sometime.
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Sep 7, 2011 17:29
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Maverique posted:Do you find it easy to get cheap film in the US? I'm having a hard time getting over the "loving portra 800 costs 7 something euros" barrier. I seriously don't get why they can't put a couple of rolls in a padded envelope and charge less than $40 to ship. Freestyles and B&H's mark up on shipping items smaller than an enlarger must be incredible.
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Sep 8, 2011 13:23
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Captain Postal posted:I seriously don't get why they can't put a couple of rolls in a padded envelope and charge less than $40 to ship. Freestyles and B&H's mark up on shipping items smaller than an enlarger must be incredible.
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Sep 8, 2011 13:35
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FasterThanLight posted:I'm thinking they need to use shipping methods with some sort of tracking, which can be a lot more expensive. Otherwise, they would end up with a ton of impatient people filing chargebacks every time a shipment gets stuck in customs for a couple weeks. That makes sense, never thought about it that way. I've got to order some HC-110 with another guy here (Japan). I think 2-3 bottles should do it for a while.
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Sep 8, 2011 13:39
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If I want to shoot a roll of Tri-X 400 in lower light than usual, I can set my camera to -2 EV and have it processed as 1600, right?
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Sep 8, 2011 19:26
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Dead Alice posted:If I want to shoot a roll of Tri-X 400 in lower light than usual, I can set my camera to -2 EV and have it processed as 1600, right? Or... just set your camera to 1600 ISO instead of 400 to begin with. I think most exposure compensation features are for single shots within a roll - if you're pushing or pulling the whole roll, just change your base ISO setting.
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Sep 8, 2011 19:32
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QPZIL posted:Or... just set your camera to 1600 ISO instead of 400 to begin with. I think most exposure compensation features are for single shots within a roll - if you're pushing or pulling the whole roll, just change your base ISO setting. I don't know that it will let me, it's not mentioned in the manual anywhere. Exposure compensation persists through power cycling though (it's a Minolta Dynax 500si). I'm right in the theory?
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Sep 8, 2011 19:46
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Dead Alice posted:I don't know that it will let me, it's not mentioned in the manual anywhere. Exposure compensation persists through power cycling though (it's a Minolta Dynax 500si). If your camera doesn't have any ISO override then go with setting exposure compensation, sure. Or go full manual 
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Sep 8, 2011 20:03
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Dead Alice posted:I don't know that it will let me, it's not mentioned in the manual anywhere. Exposure compensation persists through power cycling though (it's a Minolta Dynax 500si). Check on page 66. Something while holding the mode and drive mode buttons scroll the dial wheel to the desired film speed.
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Sep 8, 2011 22:49
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Always hate to see more film discontinuations  http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2011/09/fujifilm-announcement-the-future-of-film/ quote:The following films have ceased production and will not be re-produced. Once the remaining inventory has gone that will be it. So if you use any of the following films I suggest you get yourself as much as you can now, because this will be the last chance.
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Sep 8, 2011 23:50
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Shame to see 160NC go in 4x5 (not too many options left there), but otherwise that's not too bad. No one shoots Astia, Sensia is overshadowed by Provia/Velvia (the only store I've ever seen carry it only did so for one summer), and Neopan SS isn't that popular either (the only place I've ever seen it is Japan Exposures). It could be worse. I just wish they'd bring back Acros in 4x5.
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Sep 9, 2011 02:15
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Nooooo not the t64 A question: I've got the OM fever and the only cure is a camera. My local camera shop has an OM-4T (natural color, not black), and they'll sell me it with a Zuiko 50mm 1.4 lens on for $325. Is this A Deal, just a deal, or no deal?
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Sep 9, 2011 02:38
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atomicthumbs posted:Is this A Deal, just a deal, or no deal? Not even in the realm of being a deal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-OM4T-Camera-film-/170692349188?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item27be0e8d04 Don't buy anything from SF camera shops. 
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Sep 9, 2011 02:55
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atomicthumbs posted:Nooooo not the t64 Get one in BGN condition from KEH. Body is $159, lens is $43. That's what I did.
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Sep 9, 2011 03:51
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Paul MaudDib posted:Shame to see 160NC go in 4x5 (not too many options left there), but otherwise that's not too bad. No one shoots Astia, Sensia is overshadowed by Provia/Velvia (the only store I've ever seen carry it only did so for one summer), and Neopan SS isn't that popular either (the only place I've ever seen it is Japan Exposures). Oh gently caress, they discontinued Acros in 4x5? Shiiiiiit. I actually bought some 120 Astia a few months ago because I heard it was going to get axed. Haven't shot much with it though.
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Sep 9, 2011 03:53
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What happened to Acros in 4x5? And I am sad to see T64 in 35mm go; I took the photo what is my avatar on T64. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Sep 9, 2011 |
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Sep 9, 2011 04:12
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Paul MaudDib posted:No one shoots Astia Well they should, because it's loving amazing.
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Sep 9, 2011 05:32
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Captain Postal posted:
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Sep 9, 2011 19:10
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That's the right one. I believe they're 'compact' because you can bring them down to 135 size when not in use.
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Sep 10, 2011 00:06
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Apparently I can only source Ilford or Tetenal chems in New Zealand, which is somewhat annoying given how awesome everyone makes HC110 and Rodinal sound. Ilford have a comparison chart on their website which states that Ilfosol S is equivalent to Rodinal, and that Ilfotech LC29 or Ilfotech HC are equivalent to HC110 - are they actually chemically equivalent, or just suited to the same types of developing methods? I went into a pharmacy earlier to pick up a cheap 35mm colour roll to sacrifice to my film tank practice, and the woman gave me 7 rolls of expired stuff gratis; they'd written it off and were just going to bin it despite it only expiring a couple of months back.
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Sep 10, 2011 02:17
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Reichstag posted:Well they should, because it's loving amazing. Yeah I've seen that it is well regarded, I really want some but I never saw it available over here. And for some reason I thought T64 was gone already, grrr.
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Sep 10, 2011 04:36
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Dead Alice posted:Apparently I can only source Ilford or Tetenal chems in New Zealand, which is somewhat annoying given how awesome everyone makes HC110 and Rodinal sound. I haven't been doing this long enough to try anything other than the Ilfosol S I got as part of my starting kit. I've been quite happy with it, but again I don't know anything different, and I haven't been pushing or pulling any rolls, yet.
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Sep 10, 2011 05:38
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Dead Alice posted:Apparently I can only source Ilford or Tetenal chems in New Zealand, which is somewhat annoying given how awesome everyone makes HC110 and Rodinal sound. I've mainly been using Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid as my film dev and the main complaint I have with it is that it can be rather slow. On the other hand it is quite economical and easy to work with. I doubt Ilfotech HC is chemically equivalent to HC110, it's just the usage is similar. Isn't one of the main reasons everyone loves HC110 that it keeps almost forever and is reasonably easy to use, as opposed to powder developers which can be a serious pain in the rear end to mix up? If you just want a developer to get started with, which can last you a long time, I'd say you can just as well go with Tetenal Ultrafin Liquid, as it's easy to mix and use. Ilfotech HC is annoying to use IMO, because of the high viscosity. If they really do have a good stock of Tetenal products, they should also have Emofin and Neofin Blue, which both sound interesting.
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Sep 10, 2011 10:42
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MrBlandAverage posted:Are these the same? http://freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel It's clearly not the Classic and it clearly has large tabs, but it doesn't say anything about "compact" anywhere. The site you got your photo from - http://www.frugalphotographer.com/catChemicals.htm - is out of stock. way to find the ONE example that disproves me... They look the same to me. I didn't buy from that site either, it was just on the first page of gis.
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Sep 10, 2011 12:11
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I've discovered something interesting: leaving Rodinal 1+100 standing develops Acros and HP5+ just fine, at the same time.
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Sep 10, 2011 22:40
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Just (agonizingly) moved to a new city post-graduation. Does anybody know a reliable photo lab in the downtown or Northwest DC area? Thanks. 
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Sep 11, 2011 19:47
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Rednik posted:Just (agonizingly) moved to a new city post-graduation. Does anybody know a reliable photo lab in the downtown or Northwest DC area? Thanks. If you've still got his address, email my friend Robb who was emailing you about the Bessa a few months back (he wound up buying mine before I moved to Japan); he's in DC and shoots film.
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Sep 12, 2011 01:29
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