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Did someone say Monsoon Grey? So hi. I'm new to the Audi world, though not to VWs. In the past I've owned a Scirroco (A2) and Corrado (G60), always loved my VWs except when they didn't run. I traded in my 2010 STI for this beauty last night, fully optioned 2012 S4. When I get my camera back from MY WIFE I'll create a new thread for it.
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Aug 24, 2011 23:00
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They greys are nice. The dust and dirt won't be so obvious as a dark color especially with metallic finish.
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Aug 24, 2011 23:19
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mitztronic posted:I was hoping that the factory could do colors outside their stock. I would rather get a color I kind of don't like than do it through a 3rd party shop Can't speak for Audi but I know other top-end brands (Porsche comes to mind) offer custom paint colors from the factory for an exorbitant fee of something like $7,000.
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Aug 24, 2011 23:46
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Be prepared to drop several grand on a quality paint job. Easily 5k+.
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Aug 25, 2011 01:14
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So, has anyone ever done the timing belt of a Passat (mine's B5.5) themselves? Is it something that takes a lot of upper-body strength, or just being careful? I probably should have swapped mine out a while ago, but now I'm getting paranoid and I'm not 100% sold on the $400-700 it'd take to do at the dealership. Also, if you're replacing transmission fluid (same car), where would you pour the new fluid in? The system looks pretty sealed, but I hear about people doing it themselves all the time, so it can't be impossible, right? Sorry for the dumbass questions, I promise I'm not a total idiot.
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Aug 25, 2011 04:57
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minivanmegafun posted:My 2008 Rabbit (2-door, manual, 27k miles) is being weird!
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Aug 26, 2011 02:30
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Viggen posted:"Open part number 94-4004-303 and insert cork overlays between rubber and metal." This TSB number and part don't show up in my VW/Audi database... Could be a regional (US/Canada) thing.
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Aug 26, 2011 02:33
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my1999gsr posted:This TSB number and part don't show up in my VW/Audi database... Could be a regional (US/Canada) thing. I was trying to make it blatantly obvious that I was making it up. Works, though!
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Aug 26, 2011 02:36
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Viggen posted:I was trying to make it blatantly obvious that I was making it up. Works, though! Your number pattern is nearly identical to how they show up in my service literature - 9 digits and often one or more hyphens.
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Aug 26, 2011 02:40
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Jr. posted:So, has anyone ever done the timing belt of a Passat (mine's B5.5) themselves? Is it something that takes a lot of upper-body strength, or just being careful? I probably should have swapped mine out a while ago, but now I'm getting paranoid and I'm not 100% sold on the $400-700 it'd take to do at the dealership. What engine is in your Passat? There should be a plug in the bottom of the tranny pan that is both a drain and fill port. Automatic or manual tranny?
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Aug 26, 2011 02:43
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my1999gsr posted:Your number pattern is nearly identical to how they show up in my service literature - 9 digits and often one or more hyphens. Yeah but they ALL look like that. 
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Aug 26, 2011 02:57
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how "fake"is the AWD in the mkVI golf R? Im tossing up between the R or a STI hatch and so far the R is winning, but the claims of faux-wheel-drive and not being a Japanese car are kinda playing on my mind (since Ive only ever had Japanese cars, predominantly Subarus and theyve very rarely had problems)
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Aug 26, 2011 05:04
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Laserface posted:how "fake"is the AWD in the mkVI golf R? Electronically controlled TPMS monitoring hyperactive all wheel drive. A step up from the original Haldex 1.0 found in both MK4/5 R32s. Basically XWD or Haldex 4.0 without rear ediff, although I think it's different than the setup used in the TTs now.. or is it?
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Aug 26, 2011 05:52
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Laserface posted:how "fake"is the AWD in the mkVI golf R? Would have loved to get a golf R but I can't see them being sold for anything less than 35k. Are there any TSBs for the 2011 golf TDI yet?
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Aug 26, 2011 22:01
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my1999gsr posted:What engine is in your Passat? There should be a plug in the bottom of the tranny pan that is both a drain and fill port. Automatic or manual tranny? 1.8T. But how do you pour something in from the bottom? WTF. e: auto trans AveMachina fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Aug 27, 2011 |
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Aug 27, 2011 00:46
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veedubfreak posted:Would have loved to get a golf R but I can't see them being sold for anything less than 35k. Rear windshield wiper leak and MDI skip off the top of my head
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Aug 27, 2011 00:52
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Jr. posted:1.8T. But how do you pour something in from the bottom? WTF. With the DSG you have to either buy a special tool, or make one. But what happens is you thread the filler into the drain hole and then there is a long hose and you use gravity to fill it. Some people have made something that uses one of those weed killer pump up sprayer things to pressurize the process and make it go faster.
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Aug 27, 2011 14:05
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my1999gsr posted:There's a TSB for sunroof squeaks on A4/Avant. Application of a special rubber lubricant to seals is supposed to solve the problem. Cool, thanks, I'm going to take it in to the local dealer then and have them look at it again!
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Aug 27, 2011 20:20
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Hansolio posted:With the DSG you have to either buy a special tool, or make one. But what happens is you thread the filler into the drain hole and then there is a long hose and you use gravity to fill it. Some people have made something that uses one of those weed killer pump up sprayer things to pressurize the process and make it go faster. Huh. I didn't think of that. I think I'll end up just buying a kit from ECS and hoping I don't gently caress up somehow.
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Aug 28, 2011 02:53
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I've owned my car for a year, and I haven't hit 10K miles yet, I got a notice to come in for a 1 year/10k mile check, I should go in for it?
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Aug 28, 2011 21:33
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Whenever something is X Years / Y Miles it's referring to whichever comes first, so yes.
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Aug 28, 2011 21:49
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Jr. posted:Huh. I didn't think of that. I think I'll end up just buying a kit from ECS and hoping I don't gently caress up somehow. The trick is monitoring the temp of the tranny fluid. Fill the tranny, put the plug back in and start the car. When the tranny fluid hits around 32-34 degrees, take the plug back out and let the excess fluid drain out. It should pour out then rapidly taper off to a very slow drip. Re-install the drain plug and you're done.
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Aug 29, 2011 23:07
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veedubfreak posted:Would have loved to get a golf R but I can't see them being sold for anything less than 35k. As far as I can recall there's a software update and that's it.
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Aug 29, 2011 23:13
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my1999gsr posted:As far as I can recall there's a software update and that's it. I just had the MDI update and the leaky rear washer fluid done today, there is a TSB for both.
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Aug 29, 2011 23:15
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Bovril Delight posted:I just had the MDI update and the leaky rear washer fluid done today, there is a TSB for both. Would you happen to have the TSB# for the rear washer leak? I've been after my dealership for months, but they swear there's nothing.
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Aug 30, 2011 18:54
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BoyBlunder posted:Would you happen to have the TSB# for the rear washer leak? I've been after my dealership for months, but they swear there's nothing. I don't have the paperwork handy, but try this: #2023248
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Aug 31, 2011 03:06
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Question about my 2011 A4. Lately I've been noticing an odd noise that as far as I can tell is coming from the lower center console/shifter area occasionally on slightly rough roads. Not like going over speed bumps or anything, just when the car seems to shake just the right way. It sounds like a creak sort of if you were to lean heavily on the arm of a chair or something and it rubs against something else. Once and only once, I had just stopped at the bank, started the car, and was driving out of the lot and when i was stopped waiting to turn I head the same noise but it was cycling on and off repeatedly. Near as I can tell it's around the area of the lower vents or the shifter (manual) and sometimes fiddling with the leather covering around the shifter seems to help. Any ideas what this could be and if its anything to worry about?
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Aug 31, 2011 23:16
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Wasn't sure where to post this, so here goes. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong with my vehicle. It's a 2000 VW Jetta VR6 GLX. The engine doesn't run, or if it manages to get going it sounds horrible. From the little I've taken away from mechanics I've spoken to; it could be drive chains that led to engine damage or just engine damage in general. I've dropped it at 2 shops and nobody wanted to waste my money and their labor hours seeing EXACTLY what was wrong. I've been told it will cost at least $3,000 to repair(estimate on an engine swap and similar estimate on drive chain and cylinder/valve? fix); and the car, if it ran, is only worth $4,500(Kelly's Blue Book). More or less what happened: I was driving along the highway when I got a check engine notification. I pulled off to the side of the road and put it in neutral and gave it some gas, seemed fine so I started up again but the engine started chugging shortly thereafter. Pulled off again and got to a side road. Turned it off and it never started again. Got a tow to a shop that was 5 miles down the road. Few days later had it towed to a shop closer to home and mechanics I've dealt with before; however, they didn't want to deal with something on such a large scale with a VW and suggested I take it to a dealership. A mechanic managed to get it running but it sounds awful and he highly suggested, "Bad Noise... Please don't drive," I don't try to drive it. Don't really know what to do with the car but sinking 2/3 of the car's value, if it ran, into it doesn't seem like a good idea. Should I sell it for scrap? Never had to deal with selling a non-running car so any suggestions or tips are welcome.
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Sep 2, 2011 12:28
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Have you pulled the code to see what it is? That would be your first step.
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Sep 2, 2011 13:55
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Bovril Delight posted:I don't have the paperwork handy, but try this: #2023248 Yep, just got the paperwork. This is the TSB. Part# for the hose was 443-955-665, the C-Valve is 113-955-975, the A-Sleeve is 000-979-992 and the R-Couplpiece (whatever this is) is 1JO-955-875. The TSB for the MDI update is 2024337 if anyone needs it. I had issues where the song would go to the next song and skip. Very annoying. Still present with the TSB but the frequency is much less, and the duration of the skip is shorter too.
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Sep 3, 2011 01:00
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My 1998 A4 sedan sunroof just decided it would stay inside the roof. One of the left guides is broken, and I hadn't intended to open it all the way, but now it's completely stuck. Using the switch results in a slight motor noise and a pop, and it stops itself. Using the crank I can go maybe a quarter turn before it gets really tight and I don't want to force it. I've tried pulling on the glass while running it, but it won't budge at all. I believe I need to pull the headliner to remove the sunroof assembly now, but I can't find any good DIY write-ups. Does anyone have a basic guide to removing the sunroof, and how the rails/guides go together. I can't make any sense of the new guide I bought. I also have the unrelated problem of a low-rpm hesitation. Sometimes when I accelerate from coast or very low speed, nothing happens or the car bogs for several seconds under full/heavy throttle until the rpms get up above 2k. Then it seems to recover and pick up normally. Usually, I have lots of power right off the line. (2.8L 30v V6 manual) edit: vvv I understand that, but it isn't consistent. Sometimes it responds to throttle and rpms climb with acceleration like normal, sometimes extra throttle has no effect while it putts forward at the same speed and rpm for several seconds. Enough that the odd merge feels risky, but not enough to feel like it's normal behaviour. vvv mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 3, 2011 15:35
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The problem is you're trying to load up the car at under 2k RPMs. You said it yourself, you're bogging the engine. You are putting an unnecessary load on the engine by trying to stomping on the go pedal when revs are that low.
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Sep 4, 2011 02:17
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I'm looking to replace my 4Runner with a more efficient, fun to drive car. I got my sights set on getting a brand new 5 door golf TDI and the only thing stopping me from buying one is that I can get a Ford Focus Titanium. Emotionally I want the TDI, but logically I get more for less with the Titanium. An Impreza was an option before but I decided against it. Should I just wait for the Mark 7 before making a purchase decision? I hear that VW is building it in response to the Focus.
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Sep 4, 2011 02:42
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DerDestroyer posted:I'm looking to replace my 4Runner with a more efficient, fun to drive car. I got my sights set on getting a brand new 5 door golf TDI and the only thing stopping me from buying one is that I can get a Ford Focus Titanium. Emotionally I want the TDI, but logically I get more for less with the Titanium. An Impreza was an option before but I decided against it. Should I just wait for the Mark 7 before making a purchase decision? I hear that VW is building it in response to the Focus. The MkVII probably won't be out for 2-3 years at least, I wouldn't hold your breath on it being a revelation
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Sep 4, 2011 05:25
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I was looking to get another Golf as my next car until I saw how much the new Passats are going to be. Less than $19,000 for the base model. That's a HUGE price drop from the previous models. They need to start making more VW's in the states.
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Sep 4, 2011 05:45
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The new jetta and passat are made cheap as gently caress now compared to previous gens. Be sure you actually check out the car and spend some time in it. There is a lot of cost cutting on the new cars. DerDestroyer posted:I'm looking to replace my 4Runner with a more efficient, fun to drive car. I got my sights set on getting a brand new 5 door golf TDI and the only thing stopping me from buying one is that I can get a Ford Focus Titanium. Emotionally I want the TDI, but logically I get more for less with the Titanium. An Impreza was an option before but I decided against it. Should I just wait for the Mark 7 before making a purchase decision? I hear that VW is building it in response to the Focus. I just bought a 2011 golf tdi and I love the car. Just be aware of what you are getting into with a CR TDI.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:58
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I just purchased a 2008 A4 2.0T Quattro/standard shift. So far I have loved the car. It seemed to fit all the things I was looking for in a more practical sedan vs. the S2000 I had before it. I haven't chipped it yet, but that will come soon enough. Along with a new DV. Here is my issue. I was driving home today and the MFD gave me the low oil warning. I bought the car from a dealer with 38k miles and have put about 1k miles on it. Its a CPO so I have a good bit of warranty left. I called the Audi dealer and talked to a guy in service who said "thats normal for a 2.0T after 1k miles. It will burn 1/2 to 1 quart of oil every 1k miles." I refused this explanation and made an appointment to bring it in for them to look at it under warranty and document my complaint. My wife has an A3 2.0T and we have never had this issue. Hell, not even my S2000 burned at that rate and the motor in that car is notorious for it. Is this accurate? Am I being fed a line? Any suggestions for other items on that motor I should be wary of?
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Sep 6, 2011 22:53
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Aflicted posted:Is this accurate? http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2571830 my1999gsr posted about it on page 2 of this thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3298776&pagenumber=2 my1999gsr posted:Sadly, the earlier BPY-code engines have had a very poor track record for oil consumption - I've replaced 3 engines under warranty so far for it and and as a group my shop has replaced 6-9 of them since launch and 2 of those brand new motors have started consuming oil too. Audi has a TSB about the issue that says oil consumption of .5 L of oil per 1000 kms is acceptable throughout the life of the vehicle. Keeping in mind that the service interval is 15,000 kms, if your vehicle were consuming oil at that rate then your oil pan would be empty before your first oil change. On the good side, the newer, CCTA-code 2.0t FSI-TFSI engines don't seem to have any oil consumption issues so far and we've had few complaints about them in the Audis or VW products. I wonder if the engine will develop intake carbon deposits from the EGR/PCV? Since it is normal for it to burn oil like a 13B? quote:Any suggestions for other items on that motor I should be wary of? http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3366758 Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 23:11
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Throatwarbler posted:Yes. That is fantastic news.  I just went out and checked the engine code on mine since it appears they changed the motor from the shoddy one in 2008, which my car is. There is hazy information about that though. I can say that my engine code is BWT according to the stamp.
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Sep 7, 2011 00:33
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Aflicted posted:That is fantastic news. That cam follower thing is actually a bit more serious that the vwvortex thread makes it out to be. Destruction of engine could result. http://www.motoringtv.com/matthew-osburn-s-nightmare-with-audi-canada-p143840 However it is likely that by MY 2008 it has been fixed already. EDIT: You should probably not drive it with the low oil light on. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 00:51
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