|
Blistex posted:This is one instance where getting a DeWalt would be a good idea since they never change their batteries. This is actually not correct. I have a cordless dewalt drill that uses 14v NiCd batteries, but their newer stuff seems to use 18v Li ion batteries.
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 02:11 |
|
|
The 18V li ion batteries are interchangeable with the 18v nicad batteries, except at the charger level. So if you bought an 18v nicad cordless drill, you can buy 18v lith batteries and be good to go. In fact, once my nicad batteries finally wear out, I will likely drop a couple hundred bucks and do just that. Of course they make different levels of tools (18v vs. 14v etc.) but that's more or less always the case. For what it's worth, when buying cordless tools, brand loyalty is actually a valid factor, so that your circ saw can use the batteries from your recip saw which can use the batteries from your drill etc.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:13
|
|
|
hayden. posted:So with the help of this thread and lots of reading I've come to the conclusion that cheap power tools kind of suck, and have decided on getting hand stuff instead (chisels, files, planes, coping saws, etc). Sticking a (nicer) power drill, (cheap) drill press, and (cheap) router for power tools and hope to do everything else by hand. I'm not making anything big so hopefully this will work out. I wasn't sure about dropping big money on a block plane, but after using my Lee Valley low angle block plane, I'd have no qualms about spending the money on any of the planes they sell. It feels amazing in my hand, almost like it was custom made for it. It is a pleasure to use. I can't speak for modern Stanley planes, but I am extremely satisfied with Lee Valley.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:21
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:The 18V li ion batteries are interchangeable with the 18v nicad batteries, except at the charger level. So if you bought an 18v nicad cordless drill, you can buy 18v lith batteries and be good to go. In fact, once my nicad batteries finally wear out, I will likely drop a couple hundred bucks and do just that. Of course they make different levels of tools (18v vs. 14v etc.) but that's more or less always the case. I bought a 24v black and decker weed wacker a few months back, hoping to eventually be able to buy a 24v B&D cordless drill so I could use common batteries. Unfortunately it doesn't look like B&D makes a 24v drill so I'm kinda like, oh great.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:33
|
|
|
I don't know that I've ever seen a cordless drill on 24v, to be honest. 18 seems pretty common, though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 00:57
|
|
|
hayden. posted:...only unhelpful condescending replies that old grumpy men on the internet are masters at. drat snot-nosed kids asking questions... Get off my internet!
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 02:20
|
|
|
Bandsaw question time. I recently acquired an Atlas 9360 bandsaw. I dont know much about bandsaws, but the internet seems to suggest that its a 10" bandsaw. I had to custom order some tires for it, as the ones that were on it were old, rubber, and dryrotted. The blade thats on it seems to be 70.5 inches, which seems to be an odd size, but an actual size. Couple questions. What exactly does 10" bandsaw mean, what on it is 10 inches? Secondly, I plan to cut mostly metal (I know, in the woodworking thread? Bandsaws are bandsaws), where can I get a 70.5 inch blade for metal?
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 02:58
|
|
|
Not an Anthem posted:Just remember whatever wood you end up using, save a tiny sliver of scrap to repeat the stain on just so you know what it looks like, every species of wood stains differently. I'm slightly confused what you're advising here, isn't that pretty much what I've already done? These scraps are the two types of wood we plan on using. Phat_Albert posted:Couple questions. What exactly does 10" bandsaw mean, what on it is 10 inches? Secondly, I plan to cut mostly metal (I know, in the woodworking thread? Bandsaws are bandsaws), where can I get a 70.5 inch blade for metal? jvick fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Sep 1, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 03:41
|
|
|
stubblyhead posted:This is actually not correct. I have a cordless dewalt drill that uses 14v NiCd batteries, but their newer stuff seems to use 18v Li ion batteries. That's more technology changing instead of a manufacturer changing the battery design so you have to upgrade tools instead of just getting new batteries. (I'm looking at you Mastercraft). My dad had an 18v Mastercraft drill that used batteries that popped in like a pistol magazine. All the newer ones now slide in like a dovetail. He had to upgrade to the newer style which they have stuck with for about 5 years, so any day now they'll probably change to some manner of different locking mechanism. Like was mentioned before, if you stick with the same voltages with Dewalt, the batteries will work in your tools. My uncle has an old DeWalt cordless tool set and he can still go the the store and get new batteries that will fit in all his old tools.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 05:02
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Bandsaw question time. I recently acquired an Atlas 9360 bandsaw. I dont know much about bandsaws, but the internet seems to suggest that its a 10" bandsaw. 10" is the distance from the blade to the back of the throat horizontally. I have a 9" delta that is a huge piece of poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 05:29
|
|
|
Blistex posted:This right here! I don't know how many people I know who have picked up cheap "cordless sets" with drills, flashlights, skill saws and whatever else, only to have the batteries stop taking a worthwhile charge and then finding out that every 2-3 years that company changes their batteries (how they attach) so you have to get all new tools instead of replacement batteries. This is one instance where getting a DeWalt would be a good idea since they never change their batteries.  In general though, DeWalt has been great in this regard and kept the old system to allow old and new batteries to mix. I guess it just became too much of a hassle since the new LiIon form factor is so much better than the old oval ones with the buttplug sticking out on top.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 10:25
|
|
|
poo poo, there was more.stubblyhead posted:This is actually not correct. I have a cordless dewalt drill that uses 14v NiCd batteries, but their newer stuff seems to use 18v Li ion batteries. Bad Munki posted:I don't know that I've ever seen a cordless drill on 24v, to be honest. 18 seems pretty common, though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 10:33
|
|
|
How much do you guys think this saw is worth, I'm considering making an offer on it. http://columbiamo.craigslist.org/tls/2570249075.html I guess it's an older, discontinued model that doesn't have a diving knife.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 14:09
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Not to be a dick or anything but have you looked at the new DeWalt 20V Max line? What you describe above is exactly what DeWalt has done recently. But DeWalt still continues to make and sell all their old batteries, right? Mastercraft discontinued their battery line when they changed from "pop in" to "slide on" so your only options were upgrading or hoping that battery on eBay was still good.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 21:12
|
|
|
Oh yeah, they do. As do Bosch, Makita and other international brands. When that fail you also have third-party replacement companies where you can get batteries. Batteries are pretty much the same all around. They use Samsung cells (well, some Asian brand, probably not Samsung) and have a small controller part on top of these. Chinese companies copy these and make decent replacements. Quality cells is most important and they are pretty cheap. Which is funny when you look at what a Hilti battery can cost. Same cells can probably be found in Bosch and even cheap DIY tools. Several companies still manufacture non-LiIon batteries because these fail horribly in cold weather. Strictly speaking in very hot weather as well, but the cold only discharges them. Hot weather can ruin LiIon batteries. Temperature is why chargers come with a fan and most new professional drills will have an electric circuit break to prevent the battery being damaged from overheating it. Hey, I went on about tools again! Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 21:55
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:How much do you guys think this saw is worth, I'm considering making an offer on it. Google tells me they originally sold for $700, the guy wants $500 which includes some blades and dado sets. From what I can see in the little pics it looks to be in good condition other than rust which isn't a big deal but tells me that it hasn't been maintained. I don't know what it's worth but I would definitely give it a good look and see if he's willing to come down any. Grizzly's 2hp contractor is $1500. The nice thing about a good saw is it will probably be the only one you ever buy unless you go commercial, so over your lifetime what is the difference of $100 here or there. I guess what I'm trying to say is that if it's in very good condition and the rusty top is the only problem, I would buy it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2011 03:07
|
|
|
hayden. posted:I have sharpening stones for knives and it seems they'll work well for planes, so I'll be sure to do that. Making my own planes would be fun and I've asked on a blacksmithing forum the type of steel I should use for the blade, but so far only unhelpful condescending replies that old grumpy men on the internet are masters at. If you are thrifty, get used planes and fettle the sole, clean em up best you can and sharpen the blade. Its real easy and saves you tons. If you are a blacksmith, definitely make your own wood body plane and forge the cutting iron. Look up "krenov style" planes or planemaking. Its funny the two camps of grumpy old tool guys are a) guys that forge everything themself and snub you if you don't have a forge to make your own cutting tools b) guys that buy everything new and snub you if you ask about old technology/tools However, going from an inch down to even 3/4" takes ages and you shouldn't do thicknesses like that with a handplane.
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2011 17:32
|
|
|
Going to tackle refinishing a dresser this weekend and looking for some tips. It's a wood dresser my wife's grandfather made and she'd like it restained. I'm thinking of sanding off the old stain with my orbital sander working down to a fine grit. Does this sound reasonable and as for staining I'd like to give it a professional nice looking finish. Should I use an oil based stain?, a sealer?, a conditioner? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2011 20:13
|
|
|
Your sanding method is fine, and as for stain I'd suggest testing some different stains on an area that you're not going to see (like the back, or inside a drawer). Home Depot has those little stain samples that are like the ketchup packets you get with your fries in a drive-thru. After it's stained you should seal with a clear varnish or polyurethane. (yes I know I am a polyurethane whore!)
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 03:12
|
|
|
I had an idea for a bookshelf, but not sure if it would be even remotely possible.  Would this be do-able? A zig zag design, with books on the slants, I figure paperbacks and smaller books the higher you go, with a weighty base.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 05:01
|
|
|
Saint Celestine posted:I had an idea for a bookshelf, but not sure if it would be even remotely possible. I admit, I rolled over the base to see what the spoiler tags said. Serious reply: I can't tell what's solid in that drawing. Are those loose rectangles the books? If I'm understanding the "core" center as a solid-wood, properly-jointed unit, supporting the books, with stops at each unit's end, then yes, this could work, I think.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 05:37
|
|
|
Yes, stoppers on the end, supporting books. The solid pieces are the Zig zag straight down the middle. I tried google for some help on this, but everything just gave me straight rectangle bookshelves. How should I make these joints? Is there a certain type I should be looking up how to do? Also, screws/nails/bolts ?
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 07:09
|
|
|
Saint Celestine posted:Yes, stoppers on the end, supporting books. The solid pieces are the Zig zag straight down the middle. I would do it as a laminated stackup. You could do this two ways. First would be to cut the entire profile out of a piece of wood several times till you get to your total thickness. Just lay the profiles out on top of one another with lamination glue between the sheets. Then clamp everything evenly down. The second would be to break things up into a set of parts that overlap between layers. That way you don't have a weak point. It would let you use fewer sheets of wood. If you want it closer to the way you have it in the diagram. Then I might consider using a bit of steel to join the various central sections. Maybe a couple pieces of allthread run through holes to pull everything very tight together. ValhallaSmith fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Sep 3, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 08:19
|
|
|
Saint Celestine posted:I had an idea for a bookshelf, but not sure if it would be even remotely possible. Zig zag wooden shelves I've seen are usually attached to a wall for additional support. A free standing shelf like this would be better if made of metal or at least reinforced with metal. If you go all wood, it will need to be something strong and resilient like hickory, locust, ash, or birch, which are both strong and flexible, more likely to bend than break; or maybe maple. The only wood joints that might hold alone would be pinned boxjoints but I would reinforce them with metal; or butt joints reinforced with metal rods. Lamination, as mentioned above, would probably be a better choice. Either way I would consider thickening up the arms. wormil fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Sep 3, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 09:04
|
|
|
wormil posted:Google tells me they originally sold for $700, the guy wants $500 which includes some blades and dado sets. From what I can see in the little pics it looks to be in good condition other than rust which isn't a big deal but tells me that it hasn't been maintained. I don't know what it's worth but I would definitely give it a good look and see if he's willing to come down any. Grizzly's 2hp contractor is $1500. The nice thing about a good saw is it will probably be the only one you ever buy unless you go commercial, so over your lifetime what is the difference of $100 here or there. I guess what I'm trying to say is that if it's in very good condition and the rusty top is the only problem, I would buy it. I don't know, $500 seems a little high. I don't know what Grizzly contractor saw you're referring to that's $1500, but the G0715P Hybrid saw is $900 shipped. Full on cabinet saws start around $1400. See if you can get him to come down any. I'd see if he'd take $400.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2011 12:43
|
|
|
Saint Celestine posted:I had an idea for a bookshelf, but not sure if it would be even remotely possible. Can it have a back panel or would that ruin the aesthetic? Even something like a 1/8" sheet of luan would likely contribute significant strength or at least enough to keep it from racking severely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2011 04:10
|
|
|
LordOfThePants posted:I don't know, $500 seems a little high. I don't know what Grizzly contractor saw you're referring to that's $1500, but the G0715P Hybrid saw is $900 shipped. Full on cabinet saws start around $1400. I don't know either, I would swear when I checked their website it was much higher, maybe I was drunk posting. The problem is you can't really tell anything from that small pic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2011 10:16
|
|
|
ValhallaSmith posted:I would do it as a laminated stackup. You could do this two ways. First would be to cut the entire profile out of a piece of wood several times till you get to your total thickness. Just lay the profiles out on top of one another with lamination glue between the sheets. Then clamp everything evenly down. How about this... You make 2 or 3 cross sections out of ply cut to the front/rear profile of the bookshelf, and then cut and miter either 'doorskin' luan or other thin stock for all the book-bearing surfaces and undersides, gluing and tack-nailing them to the cross members. It might be close enough to a torsion-box to actually hold together. Downside to this method would be getting precise and complementary angles on all the pieces for attractive joints.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2011 07:38
|
|
|
Just bought a digital readout for the fence on my table saw. Also went to the landfill the other day to drop off some brush, and I saw a couple logs that caught my eye, so I pulled them out (never mind all the maple, that was already there.)   I think the first one is oak, maybe? But I don't know what the other one is. Can anyone definitively identify them? e: central Iowa, if it helps. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Sep 9, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 03:37
|
|
|
Hard to tell from the pictures, first could be ash and the second might be sycamore.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 04:47
|
|
|
I'm not good at tree identification but my guesses would be poplar and sycamore.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 05:07
|
|
|
What's the name of this type of hinge, where it's like a curved metal rail that goes inside the wood when a lid is closed?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 15:49
|
|
|
hayden. posted:What's the name of this type of hinge, where it's like a curved metal rail that goes inside the wood when a lid is closed? A "non-mortise invisible hinge", according to Woodcraft. Not sure if there's a better name for it. http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2001076/NonMortise-Invisible-Hinges.aspx
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 15:52
|
|
|
hayden. posted:What's the name of this type of hinge, where it's like a curved metal rail that goes inside the wood when a lid is closed? A barrel hinge.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 16:37
|
|
|
What I was actually looking for was Quadrant Hinge, which I found with Boogeyman's link. The type in that picture is apparently a separate type of it's own though, a barrel hinge. Thanks you two!
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2011 20:16
|
|
|
Elston Gunn posted:Hard to tell from the pictures, first could be ash and the second might be sycamore. Ahem, what ever would you do with that if it's sycamore? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2011 02:07
|
|
|
Oops, sorry about that. I zoned out after, "what is the name of this type of hinge" and missed the part about the curved rail.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2011 02:29
|
|
|
drewhead posted:Ahem, what ever would you do with that if it's sycamore? If it's sycamore, you got it, fo sho. The log is small enough that I should actually be able to mill it down enough and make some blanks, if you want I could send you a small piece and you can see if it's actually the same as what you've got going on over there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2011 05:17
|
|
|
I was making some blanks today so I got some better pictures of those mystery logs, both inside and out. First, the one that was surmised to be sycamore, here's one patch where the bark wasn't all chewed up:  And the grain (mind you, this is turned almost dead center on the core, rather than the rift sawn stuff you'd normally see)...I would say it had a hardness maybe just a bit harder than poplar? But it felt much the same to me. I've never worked with sycamore, so I don't know how the two compare.  Second, the log that was possibly named as poplar or ash. This one felt maybe too dense to be poplar, but it was also still fairly wet and I've only turned dried poplar. Gratuitous bark shot:  And the grain:  In the end, I had about 6" of chips on the floor and a small pile of blanks. This is about 1/5 the wood I have in the back of my truck right now. And after I've finished processing all of that, I have three more 6-8" diameter 4-foot logs in a friend's garage, waiting to be abused. I don't think I'll want for wood to turn come this winter. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Sep 11, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2011 04:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 02:11 |
|
|
Wow, those look nice. Got a pic of your lathe?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2011 15:13
|
|