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Do fuel tanks on E36's have some kind of gating mechanism that prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank if say, you're cornering hard? My dad and I are currently tracking a '97 E36 that we've put a BMW CCA spec suspension into, and when the tank gets to under half full any time I come out of a hard right hander it starts to choke out and I have to push the clutch and wait a second until it resettles. If there isn't some kind of gate thing that's broken, is our only option to put baffles in the tank?
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Sep 3, 2011 01:58
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Yeah those kits are seriously awesome. I did mine a year ago:quote:
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Sep 3, 2011 02:24
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tehllama posted:Do fuel tanks on E36's have some kind of gating mechanism that prevents fuel from flowing back into the tank if say, you're cornering hard? My dad and I are currently tracking a '97 E36 that we've put a BMW CCA spec suspension into, and when the tank gets to under half full any time I come out of a hard right hander it starts to choke out and I have to push the clutch and wait a second until it resettles. If there isn't some kind of gate thing that's broken, is our only option to put baffles in the tank? There is no baffling or anti-slosh valve in the tank. The issue is very common in tracked E36s, Bimmerworld sells a kit to fix it but it's not cheap and may not be any easier than adding baffles to your tank (depending on your fabrication skills and equipment): http://store.bimmerworld.com/e36-fuel-starvation-kits-p39.aspx Alternately, buy an extra 5-gal gas can or two and bring it to the track with you.
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Sep 3, 2011 02:49
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Sterndotstern posted:There is no baffling or anti-slosh valve in the tank. The issue is very common in tracked E36s, Bimmerworld sells a kit to fix it but it's not cheap and may not be any easier than adding baffles to your tank (depending on your fabrication skills and equipment):  Sterndotstern posted:Alternately, buy an extra 5-gal gas can or two and bring it to the track with you. Did that on our way back to the hotel tonight.
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Sep 3, 2011 03:35
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Sterndotstern posted:There is no baffling or anti-slosh valve in the tank. The issue is very common in tracked E36s, Bimmerworld sells a kit to fix it but it's not cheap and may not be any easier than adding baffles to your tank (depending on your fabrication skills and equipment): My E46 "passes out" on the skidpad as well but I haven't ran into the problem at the track yet. I really need to get off my arse and get the upgraded M3 baffle for under $20. Genuine BMW Part: Fuel Baffle Fixture http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=687864 http://www.rogueengineering.com/bmw/BMWGAS.html
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Sep 3, 2011 22:10
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Question. I lease a 2011 328i w/manual 13000 miles. Last night I'm on I-95 when the car throws an oil warning light. I use the computer to check the oil level, and the indicator tells me that the oil level is just on the minimum line, and to add 1 qt. I pull into the nearest walmart and check the owners manual to see what type of oil I need to add and there is a list of different viscosities. I call bmw roadside assistance and the only help they can give me is in the form of a tow truck. I said gently caress it and drove home without adding oil. THis morning I call Coggin BMW to ask their advice, but their service dept is closed. They tell me to look under the oil cap and there should be a note to advise to the correct viscosity. I check, and the only thing it says on the bottom of the cap is "BMW AUSTRIA" I had planned to drive the car around for labor day weekend, but now I'm not so sure. What advice would you goons recommend? Cause I aint gettin help from the BMW folks. I dont want to drive the car and risk engine damage. And I dont want to guess at the wrong synthetic motor oil and gently caress up the engine that way. And I dont want to be without a car until the end of labor day weekend. I know it probably wont help, but here is a picture of the engine, cause I think it looks cool. There are no oil stains on my garage floor, or my parking space at work. So where's the motor oil going? 
Alphamale968 fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 17:16
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Check the manual; it should list what oil it needs. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 with my 335i, which tends to just eat oil without it going anywhere as well.
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Sep 4, 2011 17:45
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Uhm, does it say on the cap?
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Sep 4, 2011 18:24
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nitrogen posted:Uhm, does it say on the cap? It probably just says BMW Castrol. Retarded question, but has anyone run across a manual swapped 335D on any forums yet? I know the auto is the same trans (part number wise) as in certain 5, 6, and 7 series. I've been driving one around for a few months now and I love everything about it other than the annoying transmission. Pipe dreams, pipe dreams. 500ftlb of torque with a tune is fun. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 4, 2011 |
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Sep 4, 2011 19:36
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illamint posted:Check the manual; it should list what oil it needs. I use Mobil 1 0W-40 with my 335i, which tends to just eat oil without it going anywhere as well. Yep. Just check the manual. Mine says 5w30 & 5w40 are acceptable for an '08 135i Also eats oil like crazy.
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Sep 4, 2011 19:56
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I use 5w30 in my '07 335i as well which also threw that warning light at me a few months back in between oil changes - the manual recommends a range and my BMW Service Department recommended 5w30 specifically.
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Sep 4, 2011 20:11
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Yeah, it's pretty much 5w-30 for all the Non-M cars I believe. You can use the Mobil 1 0W-40 "European" to top off if it's easier to find, that won't hurt anything. A quart burning off every few months is pretty normal.
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Sep 4, 2011 20:29
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Keyser S0ze posted:Yeah, it's pretty much 5w-30 for all the Non-M cars I believe.
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Sep 4, 2011 21:09
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Yup, I use Mobil1 5W-30 on an S52.
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Sep 5, 2011 02:18
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S52 gets the same oil as the M52 because the S52 isn't a real ///M motor
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Sep 5, 2011 12:04
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Oh, on topic, I THINK I've got some hydraulic lifter noise coming from my car, and often the advice is to change oil viscosities and sometimes that will clear it up. I am not sure what is in it now, I didn't do the change, but assuming it's 10W30, would I be better served by going to 5W30 or up to 15W50? Which is more likely to help? also: dear god, is Mobil 1 really $9/qt?!
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Sep 5, 2011 21:37
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AlternateAccount posted:also: dear god, is Mobil 1 really $9/qt?! I was at Wal-Mart the other day and I happened to walk by the oils aisle, and saw the same Mobil 1 0w40 for like $6.80/qt. They also had a couple other weights of Mobil 1, two of them were available in gallons. Check out Wal-Mart if you want to save a few bucks, I wish I had.
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Sep 5, 2011 21:46
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I run Rotella T5 0w40 in my e36 and it seems to help the VANOS and reduce the ticking a bit. Although it did start being branded as diesel oil now. It has a picture of a bulldozer on the cover and always makes me wonder.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:04
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Hey guys, 2011 328i xdrive. I'm starting to shop for winter tires, but I'm having trouble finding what I want. I'm up in Alaska, so all seasons just aren't going to cut it. My friends all rave about Blizzaks, but they only get about 2 years out of them. Any suggestions for winter tires that I can get more than 2 years out of?
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Sep 6, 2011 05:04
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Mattress Man posted:Hey guys, 2011 328i xdrive. In some other thread, the statement was made that basically snow tires are snow tires, and if you get them off the car after the last frost, they'll last quite a while. FWIW my prior Alaska-driven car had Dunlop Graspics on it that also did very, very well in snowy and icy conditions this winter.
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Sep 6, 2011 16:18
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Mattress Man posted:Hey guys, 2011 328i xdrive. Pretty much any winter tire will be OK. Blizzaks are just the best of the best of the best. I'll be picking up a set this year for my e36 m3 (it's my daily). I forgot what I had one there before, but they lasted about 2 winters as well. I think it's worth it to get the good ones for both winter and summer. My summers last about two to three summers (went 3 summers and they were cording when I switched to the new ones...) but I also autocross on the summers. Nice to see another Alaska Goon in here.
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Sep 6, 2011 16:43
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Mattress Man posted:Hey guys, 2011 328i xdrive. Good winter tires have a soft tread, so they will by design have a significantly shorter life than all-seasons, just like performance summer tires. I ran my first set of Blizzaks for a full 18 months straight due to lack of money for new summer tires and they still were well above the wear bars (but through all the nice soft stuff) when I trashed 'em and my current set have seen two winters (November through late April usually) and look to have plenty left for a third. As pointed out, just make sure you take them off when you won't need them anymore and you'll get as long as you can reasonably expect out of them. You just have to realize that high traction and long tread life are opposing goals, so the more you go towards one the worse it'll get for the other. I wasn't sure if it was worth it initially, but after a few years of RE-01Rs in the summer and Blizzaks in the winter I have no interest in going back to all-seasons. I'll gladly do two sets of tires every 3-4 years for the sort of performance I get from these.
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Sep 6, 2011 22:16
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Alright, I just wanted to get a couple of opinions. I've got no problem buying tires every few years if they are awesome tires, I was just curious if anyone had any other recommendations. I guess Blizzaks it is. Also, Minimaul, I want your car. I still think the e36 m3 is the best looking BMW ever made. I'll have to find one after I finish paying off my car.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:38
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So I'm biting the bullet and completely buying the suspension refresh. I'm going to go with the H+R touring kit from tirerack because it's really cheap at $599 for shocks/struts/springs. I'll let you guys know what I think of the set. I kinda like it just because its not the yellow/blue of bilsteins, and it's ~$250 cheaper. I think I'm also going to do a couple other jobs I've been needing to do that same weekend: rtabs, guibo, clutch slave/master cyls and vanos seals. That way when i get in my car on Monday it'll be like a whole new car!
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Sep 7, 2011 03:29
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My budget for a new-to-me car this fall is $5000, and I'm in  For between $2K and $6K, e36 outnumber e30 at least 5 to 1, and I'm very afraid of rust so buying something like a 1994 rather than a 1988 is appealing. I have a couple of questions to help me focus my search.Do these cars absolutely require premium gasoline? I frequently find myself in the back of beyond, in some small town far from everything and the only gas station for miles might not have premium fuel. Will horrible things happen if I fill up with regular once in a while? My reading indicates the -IS models (e.g. 318IS) had the limited-slip differential (which I want) as a popular option, but not always. Is there an easy way to check if a car I'm looking at has a LSD (short of throwing it around a course)? Are there key mileage points where critical maintenance happens? I'm worried about something important breaking because the previous owner decided to sell the car rather than spend $1K on preventative maintenance; I know these engines generally feature timing chains rather than belts, but are there other major items I should be wary of at, say, 200 000 km? A few of the cars showing up on Kijiji around here are being sold with what looks like minor issues, for example this 1994 318IS with a cracked windshield and a damaged lower grill. Windshields basically get replaced regularly around here anyways ($300-ish?), but would something like a new grill be difficult to find? I'm thinking "junkyard" but I've never gone looking for BMWs in the local yards.
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Sep 7, 2011 23:24
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ExecuDork posted:Do these cars absolutely require premium gasoline? I frequently find myself in the back of beyond, in some small town far from everything and the only gas station for miles might not have premium fuel. Will horrible things happen if I fill up with regular once in a while?
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Sep 7, 2011 23:28
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Alphamale968 posted:Question. I lease a 2011 328i w/manual 13000 miles. Last night I'm on I-95 when the car throws an oil warning light. I use the computer to check the oil level, and the indicator tells me that the oil level is just on the minimum line, and to add 1 qt. I pull into the nearest walmart and check the owners manual to see what type of oil I need to add and there is a list of different viscosities. I call bmw roadside assistance and the only help they can give me is in the form of a tow truck. I said gently caress it and drove home without adding oil. THis morning I call Coggin BMW to ask their advice, but their service dept is closed. They tell me to look under the oil cap and there should be a note to advise to the correct viscosity. I check, and the only thing it says on the bottom of the cap is "BMW AUSTRIA" I had planned to drive the car around for labor day weekend, but now I'm not so sure. What advice would you goons recommend? Cause I aint gettin help from the BMW folks. I dont want to drive the car and risk engine damage. And I dont want to guess at the wrong synthetic motor oil and gently caress up the engine that way. And I dont want to be without a car until the end of labor day weekend. My 1 takes 5W30 Castrol Syntec but like... you get carefree maintenace so why are you dickin around with all this stuff? Don't have another service center within hollering distance?
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Sep 7, 2011 23:38
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One of my friends runs 87 all the time with no issues, so I would think filling it up once in a while should be ok. You must live in BFE if 91 isn't offered at the station. Cost shouldn't be a concern either as it's maybe $2 per fill up (20c x 10 gallons). Assuming you fill up once a week it's an extra $104 a year. It's peanuts.
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Sep 7, 2011 23:42
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I wouldn't run a 318IS on regular if you can help it but a normal 318I should be okay.
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Sep 7, 2011 23:46
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No engine difference there. Pretty sure m42's only require regular anyway.
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Sep 8, 2011 00:05
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BraveUlysses posted:No engine difference there. Pretty sure m42's only require regular anyway. So the E36 318i and 318is were both the DOHC engine in Canada? That's handy because the SOHC ones are horrible anyway.
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Sep 8, 2011 00:10
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dissss posted:So the E36 318i and 318is were both the DOHC engine in Canada? I don't live in BFNW, but I visit on a weekly basis. Edge of nowhere, not middle. Thanks, any input on the major-maintenance/mileage questions?
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Sep 8, 2011 00:39
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BraveUlysses posted:No engine difference there. Pretty sure m42's only require regular anyway. I swear they want 91, but I would have to check the manual as I've got a 93 octane chip in mine. That was the major reason getting the 93 tune, we have 87, 89 and 93 around here, so I would be using 93 anyway.
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Sep 8, 2011 14:11
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If you end up getting an e30, the m20 doesn't call for premium. As for checking for an LSD - If you can lift the rear end, you can put in gear and spin a wheel to see if the other wheel turns in the same direction. Of if you can get under the thing, you can check the differential case for its part number; an S or Z means LSD. OR if getting under the car isn't possible, and the seats are original, you can take off the rear seat bottom (it just lifts out) to see the list of option codes, which you can check against this list. televiper fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Sep 8, 2011 |
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Sep 8, 2011 14:40
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dissss posted:So the E36 318i and 318is were both the DOHC engine in Canada? The last SOHC BMW was the M10 and it wasn't used in north America since 85.
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Sep 8, 2011 15:36
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Mattress Man posted:Also, Minimaul, I want your car. I still think the e36 m3 is the best looking BMW ever made. I'll have to find one after I finish paying off my car. Thanks, yeah they're great cars. Though i've had some trouble keeping up with mine, mostly just due to me not knowing much about cars and getting behind in maintenance. It's rough to daily drive one, so in the future I'll be looking to get something else for a daily driver (thinking e90 328xi) and then just keep the M3 as my autocross/summer fun car. But that's a ways down the road. If you see black 4 door e36 m3 with the license plate "50 50", that's me. Feel free to wave... Or flip me off. Whichever works best haha.
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Sep 8, 2011 16:39
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I have 5 14" BMW BBS wheels from a 1990 318is for sale. If someone here really wants them I'll have the tires unmounted and I'll ship them. http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/pts/2588404509.html
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Sep 8, 2011 18:26
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On that note, I have an excellent sound system upgrade for sale. This is a fantastic solution for an E36 coupe. Here is my thread on BF.c: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1707026
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Sep 8, 2011 18:56
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BraveUlysses posted:The last SOHC BMW was the M10 and it wasn't used in north America since 85. The M20 is SOHC.
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Sep 8, 2011 19:44
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televiper posted:The M20 is SOHC. Sorry thought the discussion was about 318's???
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Sep 8, 2011 20:22
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