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At some point I'd like to get into Historicals, probably Napoleonics. I know my uncle (who introduced me to gaming) used to play some type of Napoleonic war game, so I'll probably ask him. However, I don't know nearly as much as I'd like about thew various Napoleonic wars (most of what knowledge I have coming from the Sharpe's series). Can anyone recommend a good book to read as a basic introduction? Thanks.
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Sep 6, 2011 00:48
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That's a good question, I wouldn't mind a "For Dummies" type primer, either.
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Sep 6, 2011 00:59
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Gunther Rothernburgs 'Napoleonic Wars' is a good place to start, giving a broad overview of the political side, whilst also going into the tactics employed. Lots of pretty maps as well. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Napoleonic-Wars-CassellS-History-Warfare/dp/0304359831/ref=sr_1_11?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1315268155&sr=1-11 If you want to get a little more specific, two books I couldn't recommend highly enough are Zamoyskis 1812 and The Battle by Alessandro Barbero. Both eminently readable. http://www.amazon.co.uk/1812-Napoleons-Fatal-March-Moscow/dp/0007123744/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1315268627&sr=1-1 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Battle-New-History-Waterloo/dp/1843543109/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1315268328&sr=1-1 When it comes to this period, authors are notoriously prone to engaging in some serious sperging, so tread lightly. BeigeJacket fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 01:20
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BeigeJacket posted:Gunther Rothernburgs 'Napoleonic Wars' is a good place to start, giving a broad overview of the political side, whilst also going into the tactics employed. Lots of pretty maps as well. Also, when you guys paint up a unit do you try to portray a specific regiment? I thought it would be cool to paint the 28th Regiment of Foot (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/28th_%28North_Gloucestershire%29_Regiment_of_Foot), both because of their awesome story and because I could use the same minis for Peninsular and later scenarios. Is it a common thing to try to paint a particular unit, or do you generally go more generic? Also, the modern British Rifles regiment (which as consolidated from several regiments) continues to wear the back badge, as one of their parent units was the 28th. It's pretty cool to see these traditions still exist. edit: i spel gud Beardless fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 02:00
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This thread is going to make me spend a fortune. I just got the Open Fire! boxed set, and it looks awesome so far. But I like modern stuff a little more, so I just ordered Force on Force, plus some random minis I found from links in this thread. Unfortunately for my wallet, a lot of these random minis look really good and I want to order them all! My preference is late 70s - mid 80s. Would Cold War Commander work for this? Also, is there a thread to talk about games with cardstock counters anywhere? Edit: Not really historical, but does anyone play This Quar's War? Everytime I go to Endgame in Oakland and see those minis, I wanna pick it up. But I know nothing about it. 
Oxford Comma fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 05:57
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Oxford Comma posted:This thread is going to make me spend a fortune. I just got the Open Fire! boxed set, and it looks awesome so far. But I like modern stuff a little more, so I just ordered Force on Force, plus some random minis I found from links in this thread. Unfortunately for my wallet, a lot of these random minis look really good and I want to order them all! Cold war commander is perfect for70s and 80s gaming.
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Sep 6, 2011 06:53
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Here are some shots of my Early War army I am assembling for Rallypoint this year. Its based on the exploits of New Zealand 2nd Division's Cav Regiment in Greece. It is a work in progress and I still need to do some detail work on the headlights, tracks, bases and unit markings. The New Zealand Div Cav used a variety of carriers throughout 1941-1943. In Greece 1941 they used a mixture of Scout, Bren and universal carriers. Depicted here are 3 Scout carriers. The will most likely end up as C squadron. A typical NZ Squadron in Greece would have a HQ unit of 2x Marmon Herrington MkII Armoured cars and 2x "Carriers" Then there would be two troops each with 3 Marmon Herrington MkII Armoured cars. Then 4 more troops each with 3 "Carriers"  
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Sep 6, 2011 12:36
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Has anyone else seen these new guys? http://www.manatwar.es/ It's Napoleonics done in the Flames of War system. 18mm seems a weird scale though.
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Sep 6, 2011 12:44
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^^ 18mm what the gently caress?Oxford Comma posted:Also, is there a thread to talk about games with cardstock counters anywhere? No reason you can't talk about chit games in here. I think we've discussed them briefly before.
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Sep 6, 2011 12:47
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Colonial Air Force posted:^^ 18mm what the gently caress? It's basically GW's Heroic 28mm scale (that is, 32mm or whatever they're up to now) for 15mm, except they tell you they're doing it rather than calling it by the original size before the scale creep set it.
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Sep 6, 2011 13:09
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I visited the Gubbspel Galore diorama con in Gothenburg to present my Samurai diorama (I'll post pics once I get them up), and got to try Crossfire. It's a really cool system where you don't have any ranges, even for movement. The only thing that matters are reactions when you see the other side doing things and keeping initiative. They reason that in close combat during WW2 you simply could shoot anything you could see, and that movement wasn't so much hindred by not "having the movement points" to get somewhere as to getting pinned down by enemy fire and being unable to advance. It is kind of like Blood Bowl in that you can keep on doing things as long as you succeed. As soon as you fail at doing something (get pinned while advancing, firing at enemies without supressing them etc.) you lose the initiative and the turn goes over to the other side. I was sceptical at first, but it works really well. We played a scenario with Swedish volunteers during the Winter War against a Soviet probe attack in the middle of a snowy forest. The system was probably the simplest wargame I've ever played, but it also felt a lot more like actual WW2 combat than when I tried Flames of War. The guy presenting it used FoW bases, so he could easily switch between the systems. All in all a very cool game, and I'd definitely look it up if I was a WW2 nut and wanted some variety. chrisoya posted:It's basically GW's Heroic 28mm scale (that is, 32mm or whatever they're up to now) for 15mm, except they tell you they're doing it rather than calling it by the original size before the scale creep set it. Yeah, many of the bigger 15mm makers are more like 18mm. Stuff like Xyston.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:29
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So I went out and bought Turning Tide for my first FoW book, after getting Open Fire! It seemed to have more armies in it than Fortress Europe. I figured I'd wind up buying Turning Tide, and the German book, because I want to play late war. Did I buy the right book, goons? 
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Sep 7, 2011 01:05
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Can anyone point me to a good online tutorial for painting camo uniforms? I've found one or two but they are a bit crap. I'm using 28mm models, for reference.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:08
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Oxford Comma posted:So I went out and bought Turning Tide for my first FoW book, after getting Open Fire! It seemed to have more armies in it than Fortress Europe. I figured I'd wind up buying Turning Tide, and the German book, because I want to play late war. The "right book" is the one in which you find an army list you, and that works for the correct period of the game (Early, Mid, or Late).
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Sep 7, 2011 01:37
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lilljonas posted:I visited the Gubbspel Galore diorama con in Gothenburg to present my Samurai diorama (I'll post pics once I get them up), and got to try Crossfire. It's a really cool system where you don't have any ranges, even for movement. The only thing that matters are reactions when you see the other side doing things and keeping initiative. They reason that in close combat during WW2 you simply could shoot anything you could see, and that movement wasn't so much hindred by not "having the movement points" to get somewhere as to getting pinned down by enemy fire and being unable to advance. It is kind of like Blood Bowl in that you can keep on doing things as long as you succeed. As soon as you fail at doing something (get pinned while advancing, firing at enemies without supressing them etc.) you lose the initiative and the turn goes over to the other side. This sounds cool, so I looked it up, and naturally the entire print run is sold out and they don't sell a PDF. Come on guys, it's 2011.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:59
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Chenghiz posted:This sounds cool, so I looked it up, and naturally the entire print run is sold out and they don't sell a PDF. Come on guys, it's 2011. Yeah, that part is really disappointing. There has been rumours now and then about a Crossfire 2, and it never hurts to have more people dropping a line about wanting to be able to buy the PDF. But I agree, the historical hobby is filled with people who still operate like they did in the 80's.
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Sep 7, 2011 04:22
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I guess I'll shoot them an email. It sounds like a pretty unique system and I'd like to give it a try.
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Sep 7, 2011 04:29
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Colonial Air Force posted:The "right book" is the one in which you find an army list you, and that works for the correct period of the game (Early, Mid, or Late). I wanted to play Late War, probably Allies so then this is the book for me? I don't know if I also need Fortress Europe as well.
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Sep 7, 2011 04:37
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Oxford Comma posted:I wanted to play Late War, probably Allies so then this is the book for me? I don't know if I also need Fortress Europe as well. You do not, it's just the most common book.
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Sep 7, 2011 12:31
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Turning Tide and Earth and Steel are the current books for Normandy. They combine all the Normandy books and add a few more options. If you like late war D-day to the breakout then they will be fine.
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Sep 7, 2011 13:08
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You are unlikely to regret Fortress Europe, as it has some nice generic lists in there that can be used across the whole late-war period.
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Sep 7, 2011 14:39
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Anyone know where I can download free PDF buildings and terrain for my FoW game?
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Sep 7, 2011 17:11
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Or Katyusha rockets worth it? I realize that they pack a punch, because of the giant template, but it seems like they're pretty weakly armored. A gnat's fart would kill them. Also the models are pricey.
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Sep 7, 2011 17:54
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I'm not sure you understand how artillery works. If they are getting shot at you're doing the game wrong.
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Sep 8, 2011 00:36
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I don't play anything in 1/72, or know anybody who does, but this site is really making me want to play everything in 1/72.
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Sep 8, 2011 03:33
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moths posted:I don't play anything in 1/72, or know anybody who does, but this site is really making me want to play everything in 1/72. 1:72 is a really good scale for affordable models with decent detail. I have a pair of 1:72 Panzer38(t)s and they are awesome.
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Sep 8, 2011 04:02
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moths posted:I don't play anything in 1/72, or know anybody who does, but this site is really making me want to play everything in 1/72.
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Sep 8, 2011 04:30
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More WIP carriers. This time I did a few head swaps, pose adjustments and weapon swaps on my NZ Div Cav force. If I was better at green stuff I would of done more of the mounted rifles hat for the troops.     
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Sep 10, 2011 14:51
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Colonial Air Force posted:Or Katyusha rockets worth it? The issue is more what do you hope to accomplish with them? Generally artillery does best at killing lots of densely packed infantry and gun teams, but Germans rarely field those. On top of that they're trained with no special rules so they'll have a difficult time hitting stuff under the template once they're ranged in. The value of artillery though is rarely measured in how much it kills and more in how it dictates your opponents game. As for the models, get these instead, http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=ZVE6128 they're $4.50 each as opposed to $12.50 for the BF ones. They're not quite as nice as the BF ones but they get the job done and look the part. Also, Arquinsel, rocket artillery leaves behind smoke trails which are an aiming point for enemy artillery. Katyushas are always vulnerable to counter battery fire.
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Sep 10, 2011 18:21
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This thread along with the Red Orchestra 2 Beta finally made me delve into some historical miniatures instead of the usual Sci-Fi/Steampunk stuff I usually dick around with. Flames of war looked neat so I picked up a box of 15mm T34s and 15mm Panzer 4s but instead of the Panzer 4s the warstore gave me a box of 15mm late war German infantry. Oh well that said they are pretty nifty and I was going to pick up a box with my next order anyway. Can anyone comment on the quality difference between Plastic Soldier Company 15mm tank kits and the official Flames of War ones? Consider PSC T34 box came with the same amount of tanks for half the price and they come with both the 76.2 turret and 85 turret it seemed like a no brainer to me. Also I used to play future war commander and loved it, does Blizkreig/Cold War Commander have any significant play differences besides the crazytech FWC has? Can anyone recommend any good 6mm WW2 and or Cold War Era mini producers available in the US?
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Sep 10, 2011 18:25
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Comrade Merf posted:
BKC and CWC came before FWC and BKC2 is the current incarnation and uses a lot of the rule improvements developed in FWC and CWC. The core rules are identical however for all 3 systems and are my current favourite WW2 rules. I much prefer tham to FOW although of course they represent a larger scale game than FOW. Instead of playing with a few companies like FOW its usually a few batalions. Ive got a few friends who play BKC using FOW minis- no reason not to as the Commnader games are for any scale (I play BKC in 10mm and CWC in 6mm becuase those scales have the largest ranges of minis for each period). For 6mm GHQ and CinC make the best minaitures by far but they are costly. Navwar make a lot of Modern 6mm stuff and they are a lot cheaper than GHQ but are slightly smaller than GHQ so dont sit well together. Personally Ive gone with GHQ and CinC for my Moderns. Check my blog for some pics http://serotonins.blogspot.com/search/label/Cold%20War%20Commander For WW2 if you arent going to use FOW minis, try 10mm maybe? Pendraken, Wargames South, Pithead and Minifigs make superb models in my opinion and are almost as cheap (for us Brits anyway)as GHQ 6mm. http://serotonins.blogspot.com/search/label/12mm I would go for the Plastic Soldier Company over FOW if you want 15mm though. They are superbly detailed models, that have been developed by peopel with a good knowledge of the era and who have listened to customer and player feedback. They are also comaprtively cheap as chips!
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Sep 11, 2011 16:36
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Serotonin posted:BKC and CWC came before FWC and BKC2 is the current incarnation and uses a lot of the rule improvements developed in FWC and CWC. The core rules are identical however for all 3 systems and are my current favourite WW2 rules. I much prefer tham to FOW although of course they represent a larger scale game than FOW. Instead of playing with a few companies like FOW its usually a few batalions. Ive got a few friends who play BKC using FOW minis- no reason not to as the Commnader games are for any scale (I play BKC in 10mm and CWC in 6mm becuase those scales have the largest ranges of minis for each period). I really just bought the 15mm to see how the scale was and possibly see how flames of war was played in a very very small game, was intending to do 5 Panzers vs. 5 T34s but I got German infantry instead of Panzers, not that I mind these guys are awsome. Favorite size for models so far is 6mm but you lose a lot of detail on the little pewter mans and 15mm has impressed me so far. Will definately check out 10mm however, it might be a good happy medium between the two scales. Now I just need to decide on Blitzkrieg or Cold War commander and if I want to go with 10mm or 6mm like I did when I played Future War Commander. Oh and I cannot recommend the Commander series of games enough they are really fun to play, definitely worth checking out if you like WW2/Coldwar/Future mans battles. After a bit of searching I am deciding to go with CWC and 6mm figures. Most 10mm ranges seem to be in the UK and most 6mm producers seem to be in the USA. Comrade Merf fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2011 21:46
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Plastic soldier company t-34s are fantastic. They don't come with any decals so you could draw on your patriotic slogans with a white gel pen.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:05
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CWC in 6mm is the usual way to go because there's not a huge selection of modern stuff in 10mm for some reason. also don't be put off by buying from UK makers as people like Pendraken have superb customer service.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:39
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Are these StuGs from the Open Fire! boxed set miscast? The skirt armor on the left seems to be missing a chunk.
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Sep 12, 2011 19:52
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Oxford Comma posted:Are these StuGs from the Open Fire! boxed set miscast? The broken pieces are probably in the box. I don't know anybody who didn't get broken skirts. Battlefront sent me a new StuG when I told them, though, so that was cool.
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Sep 12, 2011 20:20
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Colonial Air Force posted:The broken pieces are probably in the box. I don't know anybody who didn't get broken skirts. I already looked in the box and didn't see anything. I'll email Battlefront.
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Sep 12, 2011 20:44
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^^^^ Same here, but I found the parts. I still haven't done anything with the box though, I mostly just got it for the travel-sized rulebook since I had infinite money for a brief period. Conan the Librarian posted:Also, Arquinsel, rocket artillery leaves behind smoke trails which are an aiming point for enemy artillery. Katyushas are always vulnerable to counter battery fire.
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Sep 12, 2011 21:54
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So a quick FoW question: Do ALL units on one side move (or shoot or whatever phase one is in) and then the other team gets to move all its units? Or do you move one team, the other team moves a team, then you move another, etc, etc?
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Sep 12, 2011 22:04
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It's all your units at once. There are niche cases where a unit will be able to move in the other player's turn but they don't come up all that often.
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Sep 12, 2011 22:13
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