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beatlegs posted:Someone just gave me an old Apple IIe computer. It's complete, including the monitor, two disc drives, printer, plus a bunch of manuals and software. I haven't fired it up yet but the person told me it works. I'm not up on old Apple stuff - is it worth anything as a collectable? It kinda takes up a lot of room. Maybe $100-$200 at the moment. They made about 5 million of those and there's still a lot of them around. If you have the right software (Oregon Trail, Number Munchers, Carmen Sandiego) it might be fun for kids. Then again they'll probably think it's lame as gently caress and want their iPads back.
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Sep 5, 2011 02:47
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This is hardware, I suppose.. I have a long (30 ft) USB cord that isn't providing enough power to use a wired 360 controller. If I turn off vibration it doesn't disconnect when used, but some games (Fallout New Vegas) don't seem to actually disable vibration. If I put a powered USB hub on the end of the extension cord, will that solve my problem?
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Sep 5, 2011 03:04
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Bob Morales posted:Maybe $100-$200 at the moment. They made about 5 million of those and there's still a lot of them around. And $100 shipping on top of that to move all that stuff. It's better off just being kept, and you can even build your own cable or buy one premade to hook up the serial port on it and a modern PC and use ADTPRo to transfer files and disk images onto it. http://adtpro.sourceforge.net/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw1hfZ-Bc4g
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Sep 5, 2011 03:28
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Yeah, this is from a few days back, what of it.AlphaDog posted:As awesome as it is as a printer, I have never ever been able to get the wireless networking to work. Works for me. I had to set it up via the web interface while it was connected via Ethernet (that's the recommended way). It's worked fine for me ever since. AlphaDog posted:Also it was a pain in the arse to set up under Linux, but still easier than every other printer I've ever tried to use under Linux. I use it with my Ubuntu workstation and laptop, and found it pretty simple to set up; add new printer, select printer from list (since it advertises via mDNS), choose default driver, send test page, and done. Works out of the box for me. They do have some driver pack for Linux, but it wasn't necessary for me. I print things like tax returns and boarding passes on it, so I don't print very often, but it's given me exactly zero trouble.
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Sep 5, 2011 04:52
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beatlegs posted:Someone just gave me an old Apple IIe computer. It's complete, including the monitor, two disc drives, printer, plus a bunch of manuals and software. I haven't fired it up yet but the person told me it works. I'm not up on old Apple stuff - is it worth anything as a collectable? It kinda takes up a lot of room. This poo poo can go for some OK money (not like, a lot..) if you list it on eBay. There are crazy fuckers who are into it. Just make sure you budget for shipping.
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Sep 5, 2011 06:58
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Dinty Moore posted:Yeah, this is from a few days back, what of it. Just read your post and spent about 4 minutes loving around and now it works fine. Didn't work right out of the box though, so I really don't know. I'll have a look at making it go in Kubuntu now. Edit: Minor amount of loving around in Kubuntu means I now have a spare, really really long ethernet cable that I can use to hook my original xbox into the router. I have no loving idea why I couldn't make this happen last time I tried, it was really easy. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 08:24
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I bought a WD Element 1tb external drive and it won't show up in the my computer window where C: drive is etc. but showed as a drive in device manager. So I downloaded the disc checking software to check it and that scan gave sector errors and wouldn't let me format it. Am I missing something or is it screwed & I have to take it back? Just bought the thing new today too... Also stupidly I didn't read the package and it says that I 'maybe' can't hook it up to the mac OS once I've used it on windows. Is there a way around that? Why can't it act as a giant usb drive (to put it in basics terms)?
Lascivious Sloth fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Sep 5, 2011 |
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Sep 5, 2011 10:22
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This is kind of an oddball question that I don't think really fits in anywhere perfectly. I asked in the HDTV megathread in The A/V Arena, but its not exactly related to the TV itself. I just bought a Sharp AQUOS HDTV with built in networking options, both an ethernet jack and wireless built in. It's connected via wireless to my router. I'm wondering if there is any chance in hell I could rig the set to share its wireless connection over the ethernet jack with my Xbox 360? Has anyone ever done anything like this? It would be really convenient and would be one less cable I have to run. I have a 50 ft. ethernet cable I've used for the Xbox before, but it's an ugly option. I don't really want to buy any more equipment (a wireless access point or router just for the Xbox, for instance), so if the TV option doesn't work I would just run the ethernet cable.
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Sep 5, 2011 22:26
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sirbeefalot posted:This is kind of an oddball question that I don't think really fits in anywhere perfectly. I asked in the HDTV megathread in The A/V Arena, but its not exactly related to the TV itself. It is so wildly unlikely that you can just assume it can't be. The TV would have to have an operating system and software capable of routing in order to bridge the connections. All the searching I've done for reflashing or jailbreaking the Aquos has revolved around getting around web browser limitations, unfortunately. Cable ahoy.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:23
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I'm fairly sure i'm buying a http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=187_345_1261&products_id=16268 (AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Black Edition) Which board should I shove it in? I want to keep the board below $150, unless that will hamper my style. My computin' style.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:36
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That is a terrible idea. Buy AMD for a lower priced option. Once AMD becomes price competitive with Intel in a system build, you're paying the same price for lower performance in nearly every use scenario, clock for clock, and the AMD is stuck at 4.0GHz from what I understand due to an issue with the architecture while the 2500K everyone else bought is running at 4.5GHz or more, delivering a serious spanking.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:50
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Agreed posted:That is a terrible idea. Buy AMD for a lower priced option. Once AMD becomes price competitive with Intel in a system build, you're paying the same price for lower performance in nearly every use scenario, clock for clock, and the AMD is stuck at 4.0GHz from what I understand due to an issue with the architecture while the 2500K everyone else bought is running at 4.5GHz or more, delivering a serious spanking. Thankyou. I guess i have an inability to buy budget. I'm currently running (well, ran) a q9660 so I wanted to at least get something that would blow that out of the water. I'm being forced to upgrade cpu/mobo/ram instead of GPU due to an unfortunate static related incident, and haven't done lots of research yet because drat i just want a computer back already. e: 2500k does look like a pretty good option. So many boards to put it in though... iRend fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 00:19
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iRend posted:Thankyou. I guess i have an inability to buy budget.
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Sep 6, 2011 00:41
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Lascivious Sloth posted:I bought a WD Element 1tb external drive and it won't show up in the my computer window where C: drive is etc. but showed as a drive in device manager. So I downloaded the disc checking software to check it and that scan gave sector errors and wouldn't let me format it. Am I missing something or is it screwed & I have to take it back? Just bought the thing new today too... Also stupidly I didn't read the package and it says that I 'maybe' can't hook it up to the mac OS once I've used it on windows. Is there a way around that? Why can't it act as a giant usb drive (to put it in basics terms)? Does it show up in the disk management section of the Computer Management window? (right click Computer and select "manage".) If so, try formatting it from there. I've also never heard of a disk not appearing under MacOS if you can see it under Windows, as the Mac seems to have pretty decent NTFS capability these days, and has had FAT support forever. However, if the WD software is reporting bad sectors, just get it replaced.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:19
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I have a handful of HDs, all Seagate, showing the same drat S.M.A.R.T. error, Reallocated Sector Count: Qty 2 ST31000340xx (can't remember the 340 designation) and a single ST31000333AS, so all 1TB, similar ages. The two 340s are in my WHS V1 box, and the 333 is in my work machine. I also have a single 1.5TB and a 320GB in the WHS, neither of which has this problem. Is this an "OMG replace that poo poo now" issue or not? I looked at the wiki on S.M.A.R.T. and it seems vendors use different values for some of these measurements, but the wiki is terribly vague. This is further complicated by the fact that all three of these have the exact same value for this reading Since my WHS only supports 4 drives, I'm about to forklift upgrade the 1TB drives for 2TB models, probably WD Caviar Black for the warranty. They're getting replaced, I'm just wondering if I'm shooting myself in the foot by waiting a few weeks. I did just come into possession of an MD3000 stacked full of 500GB drives and a decent SAS card, so I can assemble a ~3TB volume with redundancy to backup to, I'll just have to deal with a fuckton of noise during the copy.
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Sep 6, 2011 14:50
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Reallocated sector count is always a raw count, except on Fujitsu drives. In your case, you had one recoverable bad sector on each drive. While that's worthy of raising an eyebrow in concern, it's not a "Fix this now" problem until you get a second. At that point, you'll want to back up and RAM/replace the drive(s) ASAP, as its chances of living another year just dropped from ~93% to about 60%. So in your case, since you're replacing them soon anyway, no worries. Just keep an eye on one to crash and burn just in case.
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Sep 6, 2011 14:54
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I'd be a little more pessimistic, once the drive has logged a single hard error like a reallocation, it has failed and your data is at serious risk. How you react to this depends on how important the data is to you, if you've got irreplaceable data you should already have backups, and if you don't you need to do what it takes to make them now. If you've got the critical stuff backed up and the rest isn't too important then you're probably fine. Based on your description, I'd immediately backup and replace the drive in the work machine, and just make sure you have copies of the important stuff on the WHS server then replace its drives when you planned to.
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Sep 6, 2011 21:54
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Retard question alert. If I were to clone a HD onto another one, would I have to reinstall windows or would I get an identical hard drive that I could use asap.
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Sep 6, 2011 22:29
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Pr0phecy posted:Retard question alert. If it's purely a data drive, there will be no issues. If Windows is installed on the drive, then you may need to run Startup Repair off a recovery DVD or Windows install disc, and you will definitely need to reboot the computer once you reach the Windows desktop and it updates its settings for the new drive. If it's a RAID drive, it's better to let the controller/software handle the rebuild, rather than cloning it off.
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Sep 6, 2011 22:44
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Okay, I installed a new Mobo but three problems have arisen. New motherboard is an MSI P67A-45 with a new intel 2500K processor. Problem one is that windows says that there is no ethernet controller, so, no internet access (I'm on a smartphone and also this is the reason I didn't post this in the haus). Afaik all I have to do is connect the yellow ethernet cable to my computer/router/modem. Are there some components that have to be connected on the inside of the mobo? Problem two is that windows doesn't recognize my 460gtx. Installing a gpu is a breeze and all the pci-e cables have been properly installed. Do I need to get new drivers after installing a new mobo/cpu? And finally, this should be the easiest fix, is that windows doesn't show my cd-reader. I plugged in the power connector and the sata cable but I feel I'm missing something. Thanks in advance
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Sep 7, 2011 01:20
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MSI should have the drivers for the on-board ethernet on their website http://www.msi.com/product/mb/P67A-C45.html#/?div=Driver&os=Win7%2032 After that, download the videocard drivers from NVIDIA.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:35
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The problem is that I can't connect to the internet with my pc and that I'm posting using a smartphone. On the bright side, I found that I had an ide cd-r and my mobo doesn't support it. One problem down, two to go.
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Sep 7, 2011 01:46
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Pr0phecy posted:The problem is that I can't connect to the internet with my pc and that I'm posting using a smartphone. Download the drivers on your phone, then connect your phone to your pc, and copy the file off of it.
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Sep 7, 2011 02:03
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So recently I've been having trouble with some games, in the sense that everything would get really slow and eventually crash. I had a lot of trouble replicating the problem, but after a good dusting with a lot of experimenting, I don't think its heat. System is: E8400 - topping out at ~65C with prime95 2x2GB DDR2 8800GT 512MB - topping out at about ~98C with furmark. However, I think I've found the problem - my 12V line on the PSU occasionally dips down to ~10.7V, spending most of its time around 11V while stress tests are running. I'm guessing this could cause random lockups that occur when under load, but sometimes you're fine for an hour, other times it'll lock up as soon as you load a level? It's a 4-5 year old lovely off brand 500W PSU.
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Sep 7, 2011 02:10
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TrueChaos posted:So recently I've been having trouble with some games, in the sense that everything would get really slow and eventually crash. I had a lot of trouble replicating the problem, but after a good dusting with a lot of experimenting, I don't think its heat.
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Sep 7, 2011 02:22
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I was about ready to write it off as a driver issue related to the game, but I managed to recreate it with stress tests twice, once before temps rose. Idle voltages are within +\- .03 or so, and I honestly can't think of what else it could be. Anything else I can check before throwing money at it?
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Sep 7, 2011 02:34
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That definitely does sound like a bad power supply, at least that Corsair's on sale so you won't have to spend too much to get decent quality.
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Sep 7, 2011 02:56
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Alereon posted:I'd be a little more pessimistic, once the drive has logged a single hard error like a reallocation, it has failed and your data is at serious risk. How you react to this depends on how important the data is to you, if you've got irreplaceable data you should already have backups, and if you don't you need to do what it takes to make them now. If you've got the critical stuff backed up and the rest isn't too important then you're probably fine. Based on your description, I'd immediately backup and replace the drive in the work machine, and just make sure you have copies of the important stuff on the WHS server then replace its drives when you planned to. I checked my 500GB drive in my main box at home, and it's showing a raw value of 38. It's backed up nightly...to the WHS that contains two drives with single digit raw sector reallocation values. Great, I was going to re-purpose one or both of the 1TB drives into my gaming rig and move the 500 somewhere else. All of these drives are Seagate 7200.11 or 7200.12, in case anyone needs another anecdote.
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Sep 7, 2011 14:49
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I just bought a PS clone usb gamepad for about €4 on ebay. I tested it using the windows joystick utilities and all the axes (Left stick = X & Y, Right stick = Z & Z Rot) are working fine. However, the game I specifically bought it for doesn't seem to accept X or Y axes to move. Whenever I try it, it sends the character all sorts of ways. I tried to use the right stick (Z & Rot) to move and it works fine, even the mouse works fine to move. This game is about a decade old by the way. So what I'm asking is; is there any way to swap a joystick's axes so the left stick now does Z and Z Rot or even to make the left stick control the mouse so I can set the controls to accept mouse to move?
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Sep 7, 2011 17:13
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My work machine has some cheap-ish MicroATX board in it, with an ATI 5750 driving 3 monitors. They gave me an ATI 4350 which they found in a cupboard, also PCI-E. If I buy a board with 2 PCI-E slots (of the size that can fit the graphics cards), am I likely to be able to run both cards at once, to drive 4 or 5 monitors? Sir Sidney Poitier fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 18:44
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You should, though on Windows Vista they'll be required to use the same driver. Windows 7 & XP should be able to run both, and Vista if you can use the same driver for both, not sure how doable that is.
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Sep 7, 2011 19:37
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How "quiet" is the fan on the Coolermaster Hyper212+? It seems somewhat louder than the case fans I have (Fractal Design, they came with the case). Is there an especially quiet brand of fan I could look for for the Hyper212+? I assume any 120mm fan will just go on there with the supplied clips. Also, do fans generally have an indicator of which way they blow, or is it a case of just plugging it in and seeing? Relatedly, is there a "best" way for a single fan to blow on a Hyper212+? Cooling has never really interested me beyond a standard Aussie summer "gently caress it's 40c in the room, time to turn the PC off", but now I have a bug up my arse about making this thing quieter. Not silent, but quieter. The Hyper212+ was a great start, but turning off the other fans in the case makes it totally clear that it's still the noisiest component. I'm not doing loving watercooling, I just want it quieter and buying a 20 buck fan does not worry me.
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Sep 8, 2011 03:11
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AlphaDog posted:How "quiet" is the fan on the Coolermaster Hyper212+? It seems somewhat louder than the case fans I have (Fractal Design, they came with the case). Is there an especially quiet brand of fan I could look for for the Hyper212+? I assume any 120mm fan will just go on there with the supplied clips.
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Sep 8, 2011 03:15
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I have a problem, considering I am trying to do a clean install of Win 7 64bit, but there is a problem that keeps coming up. It won't let me install the 64bit infrastructure (I am currently running Win 7 Ultimate 32bit) My hardware is a Asus P5Q Deluxe with an Intel Core 2 Duo E8500@3.16Hgz. What is curious is when I go into my System information it says that the processor is 1 core. Is it something in the bios I have to set? I am completely befuddled, any suggestions?
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Sep 8, 2011 03:58
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What kind of case pressure provides the most efficient cooling? I have a Lancool PC-K7B with two intake fans and one exhaust fan all of them the same type of fan which would be Scythe Slipstream 1200RPM fans at ~800RPM or 50 percent in the bios although the two front fans are running off the same header on the motherboard using a 3-pin Y adapter. So what kind of case pressure is best for case cooling for my setup? Positive, negative, or equal pressure?
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Sep 8, 2011 05:58
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It doesn't make a difference in the short term, but positive pressure can help prevent dust build-up, which means you need to clean less often to avoid thermal emergencies. It's not a complete prevention, but it's something.
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Sep 8, 2011 06:05
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spasticColon posted:What kind of case pressure provides the most efficient cooling? I have a Lancool PC-K7B with two intake fans and one exhaust fan all of them the same type of fan which would be Scythe Slipstream 1200RPM fans at ~800RPM or 50 percent in the bios although the two front fans are running off the same header on the motherboard using a 3-pin Y adapter. So what kind of case pressure is best for case cooling for my setup? Positive, negative, or equal pressure?
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Sep 8, 2011 06:06
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Alereon posted:You should just be able to turn down the fan speed, either in the BIOS or in your motherboard's management software. That fan supports 600-2000rpm, 1000-1200rpm would probably be good for very low noise. The fan will have arrows on the outside on one corner usually showing direction of spin and airflow. You always want the fan blowing into the heatsink from the front towards the back of the case. Gotcha. The fan is mounted on the side of the heatsink that is toward the front of the case, using the integrated clips that came attached to it, so I guess it's blowing the right way. I thought that the CPU fan was supposed to auto-adjust? Come to think of it, I've never heard it spin faster, so it's probably somehow running at full speed... I'll check the BIOS and the motherboard software... Edit: hosed around in the BIOS. Can make the CPU fan significantly louder if I set it to max speed, but not significantly quieter since it's running at 700-800RPM anyway. Hmmm. I wonder if it's just a noisy/dodgy fan, since my case fans are quieter set to max than the CPU fan is at less than half max. gently caress it, the drat thing is quiet enough. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Sep 8, 2011 |
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Sep 8, 2011 13:06
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800rpm should be pretty much silent, maybe it's vibrating against something it's held in contact with? You might try pressing on it to see if that helps, if so you can probably use electrical tape or some other soft material to make an insulating cushion where it touches the heatsink.
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Sep 8, 2011 20:36
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Just built a new computer and I'm having problems getting my headphone/mic inputs on my case to function properly, The case is a Fractal Design R3, the motherboard is a Gigabyte Z68XP-UD3. The mic input functions properly, and quite well actually, however the headphone jack does not recognize when I plug my headset into it, it defaults the sound back out through HDMI into my TV. In the windows sound properties (Win 7 x64)it says there are not headphones (front 3.5mm jack) or speakers(rear jack) plugged in, however it works if I plug the headset into the speaker jack on the back of the motherboard. The case has 2 different "Audio" connectors on the same cord (one is Audio, the other is AC97) that can be plugged into the motherboard, I haven't noticed any differences when either is connected. Anyone have any ideas?
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Sep 8, 2011 23:09
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