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Quick question on painting bases: is it better to have a light colour for a dark-coloured mini? My problem with that is that the blasted ash-wastes of the Dark Lands don't sound very light-coloured.
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Sep 5, 2011 22:20
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Not a viking posted:Quick question on painting bases: is it better to have a light colour for a dark-coloured mini? My problem with that is that the blasted ash-wastes of the Dark Lands don't sound very light-coloured. For what it's worth, most factions have a pretty good excuse for fighting just about anywhere. My Space Wolves aren't sitting around on Fenris, they're on campaign on a desert world.
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Sep 5, 2011 22:29
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Lincoln thats not tooth thats skunky primer. Proper tooth is basically not visible to the eye and is really omly noticeable when you paint on it. Primer skunk is because of poor weather/incorrect paint "stirring"/god hates you
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Sep 5, 2011 22:52
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What did you use for those cobblestones? I found some miniature coal in my toolbox. I poured out a small pile and used ones of a similar height and size glued down with pva. Then I filled across the top so it was an even surface. I used a rough metal file so the stones got a nice used, rough texture.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:07
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Not a viking posted:Quick question on painting bases: is it better to have a light colour for a dark-coloured mini? My problem with that is that the blasted ash-wastes of the Dark Lands don't sound very light-coloured. I try to keep it simple. If the majority of the scheme is a warm color like an Imperial Fist yellow marine, I do a cool color for the base like a standard grey. If the model is dark, do a brown base to add color. Really all my bases are either brown or grey.
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Sep 5, 2011 23:28
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Matte medium is amazing, my paint on the pallet takes so long to dry out on me now 
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Sep 6, 2011 00:15
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PaintVagrant posted:Lincoln thats not tooth thats skunky primer. Proper tooth is basically not visible to the eye and is really omly noticeable when you paint on it. You're not the first person to tell me it's weather-related. I live in a very hot, dry area, and this summer's been especially bad. Apparently, the primer is drying between the time it leaves the nozzle and hits the model. Ugh. Still, the Testors was very noticeably better. I hope the airbrush does even better. Otherwise, I'll have to limit my model-building to 6 months out of the year. I wish somebody would invent a thin "dip" that would gently etch the surface of the plastic. No missed spots, no covered-up details...
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Sep 6, 2011 00:57
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Not a viking posted:Quick question on painting bases: is it better to have a light colour for a dark-coloured mini? My problem with that is that the blasted ash-wastes of the Dark Lands don't sound very light-coloured. Ashes are/can be very white and chalky in color. 
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Sep 6, 2011 02:10
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Lincoln posted:You're not the first person to tell me it's weather-related. I live in a very hot, dry area, and this summer's been especially bad. Apparently, the primer is drying between the time it leaves the nozzle and hits the model. Ugh. Still, the Testors was very noticeably better. I hope the airbrush does even better. Otherwise, I'll have to limit my model-building to 6 months out of the year. Use brush on primer if the spray kind is giving you a headache.
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Sep 6, 2011 02:18
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Finished the captain. He's a little sloppy because I'm trying several things that I haven't done before and I did a bit of a marathon after he sat in my cabinet unpainted for years. Here he is unpainted:  Note: this is my second attempt at "sculpting," I wanted to give him a range of motion. The cloak was billowing in the wrong direction in the original and I couldn't figure out a way to attach the Melta without a strap. In retrospect I wish I had made the strap narrower. Here he is finished:       Well, finished is strong, I plan on touching him up a bit. In terms of gaming he's a captain of an armored company with a relic blade and storm shield, meltabomb, and a bolt pistol. His chapter doesn't release names of the soldiers (the fluff is that they believe that the pursuit of fame undermines service) but he has "Hubris" on his shoulderpad in Russian. This is a criticism of his flamboyant nature in combat. The icon on his shield is the company heraldry.  (this is a cross post)
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Sep 6, 2011 07:54
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That's some really neat work. I'm not sure how I feel about the heavy black lines, but when I look at it next to what I can see of the rest of your force, it does seem to fit in very well, and stand out at that. I do think the strap should be a little smaller, but I like the plastic piece on the sword. Not so sure about how you painted it, though - something doesn't seem to mesh, but I can't make any suggestions that would be better. Overall a really unique piece and neat! Also my batch of supplies should be here in a few days, so you all will have to deal with Babby's First Ghouls soon enough!
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Sep 6, 2011 08:05
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Actually, I was thinking I could have the base dark grey but then add snow to most of it would that work on these?  I've never made snow bases, but I'll have a look at the OP and see what I can do with the material I have at hand (not much).
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Sep 6, 2011 08:17
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I may redo the blade. again (4th time). Either I do the spatter big and it looks overdone, small and it looks like a mistake or don't and it looks like he wiffed.
Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 08:24
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Fix posted:That might be overselling it a wee bit. Centuries of painters, and soforth. A man who discovered it, maybe. Don't be pedantic, you know that I meant "in the context of miniature painting". I remember following the old mini-painter egroup back when he was developing the drat technique, and the best painters in the scene applauded him for his findings because everyone was still painting fire backwards. TheCosmicMuffet posted:He discovered how to make a fire elemental look like a maple leaf. He doesn't get the contrast of fire right, or the fact that, given that we work with matte paints instead of luminescent ones, you have to dial down the tones on the rest of the mini like you're planning bounce lighting to make fire look convincing. The elemental in the article is a bad example, but if you'd take five minutes to look in the other galleries, you'd see that he's done other, better things with the technique.
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Sep 6, 2011 08:45
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My biggest problem with the litebright eyes people use is that the eyes are casting light on surfaces that have no line of sight to the source. It looks dumb to me because the light wouldn't naturally occur there.
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Sep 6, 2011 08:56
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So, I got some Dettol yesterday, and am eagerly anticipating the delivery of some more stuff for painting exploits - a desk, so as not to drip paint on rented furniture, and my needle files - from home. Here's the last mini I started painting before I gave up, prior to his Dettol immersion; and the first mini I will paint in my return to the hobby. Featuring Chaos Black spray paint, and Flesh Wash face. Yeah. And mould lines.  I'm going out to grab some grey primer later this afternoon, and I hope to do some painting one afternoon this week.  Does anyone know where I might be able to obtain Masters brush soap in the UK? I wanna make sure my stuff stays in good nick. Wish me luck.
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Sep 6, 2011 13:27
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Xpostin' like a mofo: Started work on Rasheth:     My spray varnish CLAIMS to be matte, but as you can see, this is all LIES.
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Sep 6, 2011 14:06
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Any UK peeps know where I can get some of those fancy daylight bulbs? Winter's coming.
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Sep 6, 2011 14:30
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Picture of my first Imperial Guard.  Still a work in progress. (The stuff between the arms and the torso is adhesive sticky thing) Boar It fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 17:51
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Torabi posted:Picture of my first Imperial Guard. You can seriously just slap a layer of Devlan Mud on that and you have officially painted better than 80% of the internet. Clear, clean colors, good coverage--just great. Why couldn't I have started like this. So many years... 
PierreTheMime fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 18:07
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Torabi posted:Picture of my first Imperial Guard.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:09
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Thanks!  The only thing I just realized is that the fatigues are more brown than beige now. I should have gone easier on the Ogryn Flesh wash. It still looks good but I wanted it to be beige. I guess that slapping another layer of khemri brown would ruin the model.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:22
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Paint another layer, but don't paint recesses, creases, or other areas that would naturally look darker. Same goes for anything else you washed, for that matter. Next time just go easy on the wash if you want that khaki look though- you want to do as little work as possible when you have a bunch of guardsmen.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:24
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Torabi posted:Picture of my first Imperial Guard. Word of advice, use double sided tape instead of white tac to hold your mini to the paint pot. You can thank me later. Other than that it is a very good looking imperial guard.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:31
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sassassin posted:Any UK peeps know where I can get some of those fancy daylight bulbs? Ebay is always good, either that or Hobbycraft.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:36
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Word of advice, use double sided tape instead of white tac to hold your mini to the paint pot. You can thank me later. Other than that it is a very good looking imperial guard. What's the big difference?
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Sep 6, 2011 18:44
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Fyrbrand posted:Paint another layer, but don't paint recesses, creases, or other areas that would naturally look darker. Same goes for anything else you washed, for that matter. Next time just go easy on the wash if you want that khaki look though- you want to do as little work as possible when you have a bunch of guardsmen. Thanks. I'll try that. Limp Wristed Limey posted:Word of advice, use double sided tape instead of white tac to hold your mini to the paint pot. You can thank me later. Other than that it is a very good looking imperial guard. Paint pot? It is a bottle-cap.
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Sep 6, 2011 18:45
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Xpostin' like a mofo: Got some properly matte varnish this time:    
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Sep 6, 2011 18:54
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Silhouette posted:Don't be pedantic, you know that I meant "in the context of miniature painting". I remember following the old mini-painter egroup back when he was developing the drat technique, and the best painters in the scene applauded him for his findings because everyone was still painting fire backwards. Seriously all that does is reflect poorly on the top painters back in your old e-group, because it's not like fire goes backward now.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:16
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Got some properly matte varnish this time: I love the overall paint job but what really catches my eye is how nice your base is! I love the paint job on the floor, you've gotta give up how you did that sometime! And onto rubbish - I tried heavier and more layers of drybrushing on this set to see if it made them look more interesting. C&C?      Also tried wood, both whole trunks and random bits. Think the colours turned out ok but I don't know if it's 'enough' for miniatures.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:25
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Lethemonster posted:Also tried wood, both whole trunks and random bits. Think the colours turned out ok but I don't know if it's 'enough' for miniatures. I'm really not sure how much more you need/want. I mean, they're 28mm miniatures. I suppose if you're making them all one-offs to be master-painted beauties for display you could slave over them to add additional detail, but from table-level that's beyond standard tabletop quality. If you plan on making 60-120 of these for standard models for gaming, worrying that much over your bases will drive you to the depths of madness (or at the very least have you sitting at a table for weeks working on them). I likes em as-is. The textured materials could probably have slightly higher definition with an application of wash, but otherwise it's all just a matter of your own personal satisfaction.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:29
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Anyone who does less than this person to achieve a nice flames effect should be ashamed of themselves: http://whfm.blogspot.com/2010_04_10_archive.html
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Sep 6, 2011 19:29
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Anyone who does less than this person to achieve a nice flames effect should be ashamed of themselves: Holy cow. Those things actually glow.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:49
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Yeah because the dude used LEDs and fiber optics inside the models. Still looks cool but that's not an effect derived only from painting.
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Sep 6, 2011 19:52
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I'm a fan of people who paint fire correctly on one part of their model and then the wrong way on another part.
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Sep 6, 2011 20:05
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PierreTheMime posted:I'm really not sure how much more you need/want. I mean, they're 28mm miniatures. I suppose if you're making them all one-offs to be master-painted beauties for display you could slave over them to add additional detail, but from table-level that's beyond standard tabletop quality. If you plan on making 60-120 of these for standard models for gaming, worrying that much over your bases will drive you to the depths of madness (or at the very least have you sitting at a table for weeks working on them). I likes em as-is. The textured materials could probably have slightly higher definition with an application of wash, but otherwise it's all just a matter of your own personal satisfaction. Ah that's what I meant - it always seems to me that highlights and drybrushing are done to stand out more than I always think they would if things weren't... tiny. I'll try another wash see if it gives it more woody pizzaz. And I will be doing this for every model because it's so much fun... and all my friends models... and then I will make even more bases and send them to strangers. I don't actually play the game I just like painting stuff and making tiny pretend trees 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 20:06
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sassassin posted:Any UK peeps know where I can get some of those fancy daylight bulbs? My wife bought my daylight lamp from maplin, so it might be worth checking there too.
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Sep 6, 2011 21:39
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Lethemonster posted:Ah that's what I meant - it always seems to me that highlights and drybrushing are done to stand out more than I always think they would if things weren't... tiny. I'll try another wash see if it gives it more woody pizzaz. Try giving the stone a green wash where water would pool or flow, and areas that would be generally damp like overhangs and the like. It gives the impression of mold/moss. Also maybe try mixing up your flock a bit with some different color/texture or little bits of ground cover here and there.
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Sep 6, 2011 21:41
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So I need some advice on painting a miniature that isn't Warhammer and I'd really appreciate any help I can get. I've been reading a lot of links in the OP (some of them are dead, but most are awesome) but I thought I'd make a post, too. http://imgur.com/a/OdXRy#mAPcI This is a WIP model made with sculpey. It's about 4 inches tall. When it's done, it'll be baked and I'll be painting it (along with a few similar ones). I painted Warhammer miniatures before, two years ago, but I wasn't very good. I'll be practicing a lot before I even tackle this, but what techniques are essential to have down before I even start, so I know what to learn and focus on specifically? I'm pretty nervous about making these look great despite having little experience but I'll be practicing as soon as I order some paints. Would the Warhammer paint sets be good for this (clay) or should I be looking at a different brand? Are Warhammer acrylic sets pretty much the same as artist acrylic sets or is there a difference because the warhammer sets are specifically for miniatures? I know very little about any of this, obviously. 
Star Guarded fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 6, 2011 23:47
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Not a viking posted:Actually, I was thinking I could have the base dark grey but then add snow to most of it would that work on these? The best way to do really simple and good looking snow is like this: -Basecoat the base in something blue/white like spacewolf grey. -Apply a very thin coat of water effects gel (or if you're poor/crazy elmers school gel) -Now dunk the base in some baking soda and shake off the excess, the baking soda should absorb the gel and become a darkened grey color -Now either continue the above step until the soda ceases to be that color after shaking or apply a thin layer of modeling snow. I've used both water effects gel and elmers for this process and there is an upside to both. The upside to gel is that its slow drying so you can correct mistakes, it dries in a VERY thin layer so it doesn't puff up your base and its less prone to "strange accidents" than the gel. The gel on the other hand is better at creating the illusion of deep snow due to its naturally blue shade, is less watery so it requires less coats of baking soda and/or modeling snow and dries much quicker. Its downside is that very rarely it does strange things like peel and its very very very sticky and its therefor harder to correct your mistakes with it. Ideally you'll produce bases like these (these are some models that I was experimenting with this base technique on): Too much model snow: http://imgur.com/DaatL this one doesn't have enough: http://imgur.com/mfk1L This one has a light white drybrush on it: http://imgur.com/7j0ie And this is one where I tried basing the model with a standard brown dirt style, then applying a wite drybrush and finally the basing technique above to it: http://imgur.com/VCdE2 Unfortunately my camera is broken, because I have a bunch of marauders who are based this way and look way better than those elves do. If you are going for little tufts of snow on bases you can accomplish that with just baking soda and elmers. If you apply more soda to the middle of the tufts than the outside it will create the look of melting snow nicely, if you want to have little chunks of ice you can use rock salt of all things to make little ice crystals in your snow piles. This is by someone who is much better at this than I am, but the water effects gel is what makes it look so good: http://www.coolminiornot.com/278844?browseid=107276 El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 7, 2011 |
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Sep 7, 2011 00:55
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