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Infinite Karma posted:I think the Tzeentch greater daemon models are ugly as sin, but I wanted to run a Kairos Fateweaver, so I decided to kitbash a daemon made of armor scraps and chains - basically a greater daemon version of the Thousand Sons. Not sure how it will look when painted, or whether the left standard is too much; but it looks pretty loving rad right now.
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Sep 11, 2011 10:33
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:36 |
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Just go to Bunnings and get a $5 can of Fiddly Bitz matte black. It's what i've used for my entire Trollbloods army, just remember to leave your mini for a while after undercoating it as that stuff does seem to take a while to dry fully.
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Sep 11, 2011 10:35
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Shadeoses posted:I'm looking for a spray to basecoat my models, does anybody know of a good brand available in Australia? I would really rather not buy a $26 can from GW if possible. I was kind of lazy and bought the Chaos Black spray can from my local Warhammer store for about ~$18. It was actually quite cheap for me considering the fact that I'm in Sweden. I'm at least happy with it.
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Sep 11, 2011 11:05
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Calico Noose posted:Just go to Bunnings and get a $5 can of Fiddly Bitz matte black. It's what i've used for my entire Trollbloods army, just remember to leave your mini for a while after undercoating it as that stuff does seem to take a while to dry fully. I've never seen this - I use White Knight Squirts at $10 a can flat black/white and it's worked fine - maybe a little thick, but that's probably my fault. FROOOOOOOOG fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Sep 11, 2011 |
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Sep 11, 2011 13:18
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Shadeoses posted:I'm looking for a spray to basecoat my models, does anybody know of a good brand available in Australia? I would really rather not buy a $26 can from GW if possible. Fiddly Bits grey primer is very good for $2 something a can. I don't know if they make a black or white primer. I use Dulux Quickdry for black, it is usually $9 from Bunnings.
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Sep 11, 2011 14:03
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Australia has the coolest names for products 
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Sep 11, 2011 15:16
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Anyone in the UK got recommendations for websites that they get their Vallejo paints from? I found a bunch of different shops on Google but was wondering if anyone knew of one that was especially cheap or something.
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Sep 11, 2011 15:26
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So my Australian Golden Demon entry is due this coming Saturday and I'm manning up to get this Lhamaean done. I'll keep taking WIPs as I go, posting it up for some feedback please. While not much is painted currently, basically I'm asking: How does the blending / shading look? I was going for a realistic feel, so I haven't pushed it to ultra contrasting levels. Pre Spray  Sprayed White + Watered down Badab  Current level:   
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Sep 11, 2011 15:27
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Maelstrom Games or Wayland Games are pretty good ones I use.
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Sep 11, 2011 15:27
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The problem with subtle shading in photos is that it's hard to tell if something's paint or just the light. Looks fine, though.
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Sep 11, 2011 16:49
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putting my goblins aside for a while, and starting to collect grey knights (cause we always need more armies). I'm looking for model ideas and inspiration for the various henchman units. In all honesty, I might eventually put together a few of every henchman unit in the book. Some things I'll probably use- Dark Eldar Wyches for Death Cultists (file off a few spikes and they're done) Bretonnian Man-at-Arms for Crusaders. Crypt Ghouls should make pretty good servitors and arco flagellants. Would fantasy Dryads work well for Daemon Hosts? Any suggestions for Acolytes? I don't really want to use regular Guardsmen, and I'm not sure what kind of theme I'd like for them. Just to be clear, though I'd like to play in tournements, I don't care if I use GW models for most of the henchmen. I'll likely use the less "power-gamey" units in friendly games, so feel free to sugest any models from any range.
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Sep 11, 2011 17:48
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Sole.Sushi posted:So, tried to do the airbrush sword trick. I had to practice it 4 times before I finally did it right, then I hosed it all up when I took off the tape and the paint and primer went with it. My advice that he doesn't tell you? Prime, then dullcote it. Put on the tape, do the paint and then dullcoat it again before peeling it off so that hopefully the paint doesn't go with it. I had to reprime the side I hosed up while praying I didn't mess with the side I did right.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:43
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Gonna try again on Monday.
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Are you using proper model masking tape ? Tamiya do some lovely super low tack stuff. And don't leave it on for days on end either.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:54
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Are you using proper model masking tape ? Tamiya do some lovely super low tack stuff. And don't leave it on for days on end either. Yup, and it was only on for a few minutes. Perhaps my can of primer was low, I've been meaning to get some new ones. I've got like 12 cans that are almost dead.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:57
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Red Herring posted:So my Australian Golden Demon entry is due this coming Saturday and I'm manning up to get this Lhamaean done. I'll keep taking WIPs as I go, posting it up for some feedback please. If you are looking to compete on a golden demon level, you need to build up more contrast, and potentially work in more color interaction. Right now its way too mid-toned, its starting too dark and never gets any lighter. Regardless of how realistic you want the model to look, you have to exaggerate light on 30mm scale stuff. e: your photos may not be doing it justice, so of course use your own judgement. But I think more contrast and working up to lighter colors is probably a good idea.
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Sep 11, 2011 19:33
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Hey PV! A while back you did a large batch of city ruins bases. I thought they were awesome. Any chance you still remember how you made them up?
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Sep 11, 2011 22:17
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Other than the peaked cap and billowing greatcoat, are there any other important Commissar accessories that I might add with putty?
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Sep 12, 2011 11:42
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C&C would be appreciated. I made some more bases, this time I went for cold stone snowtop mountainy type. Costs about 10p to make each base, much nicer than buying them for ~£1 each.   Shadeoses posted:Other than the peaked cap and billowing greatcoat, are there any other important Commissar accessories that I might add with putty? Stalin-moustache ofc.
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Sep 12, 2011 12:57
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Middle top isn't a great composition, but the rest are rad. How'd you do them?
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Sep 12, 2011 13:08
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Moustache probably wouldn't work. I only just added the coat and decoration (still slightly soft actually), so they will be well polished and not terrible when it is time to paint. That white blob around the waist is actually a billowy coat, it seems flash is unkind to its features. I was quite amazed when it fit so perfectly on the base, even more so than when it doesn't overbalance from the new weight.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:15
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Lethemonster posted:C&C would be appreciated. I made some more bases, this time I went for cold stone snowtop mountainy type. Costs about 10p to make each base, much nicer than buying them for ~£1 each. Very nice. If they're resin I'd even consider purchasing some, unpainted of course.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:24
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sassassin posted:Middle top isn't a great composition, but the rest are rad. How'd you do them? Middle top looks betterin real life because it's shape only really shows from not-birds eye. I wrote them up here; http://lethemonster.blogspot.com/2011/09/tutorial-basing-using-bark.html Only need bark, glue snow. And paint, ofc. It would be cool if I could make and sell bases as resin but the materials I use are so cheap (mostly free!) the cost of doing them in resin to sell feels cheeky. I do wish they had the weight of a plastic/resin base though. I'm going to have to mould something into the bases to make sure they don't fall over.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:45
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So, annoyingly, my FLGS is closed this week, or I would have gone in and grabbed the colours I'm missing to finish off this dude's base and boots. But, since it is I call this as finished as I can get it - aiming for single character quality, this is intended for use in my D&D game, when I can figure out a character which actually suits it. Basing is intended as flagstones, until such time as I can figure out where I can get sand in small quantities in the local vicinity. I do also have some good cork rocks left over from my earlier efforts, and various other basing ideas in mind, but I want to keep these minis fairly simple, as our maps are rarely if ever elaborate. Onwards:     Completely redid the face, sorted out the metals, and did as much shading and highlighting as I could to the boots without making them just look like the same material as the cloak lining. Questions: - Am I doing the right thing by trying to highlight/shade metallic paints with non-metallic colours? It didn't seem to work terribly well, unfortunately. - I kept finding, when trying to do the very fine details like the eyes (bloody eyes too me ages, never look even, still don't because the sculpt isn't even) and the gems, that the paint would dry on the brush before reaching the mini - is that because it's not thinned enough? I think I still haven't found the thinning sweet spot, because I varied on the fine detail between 'dries on the brush' and 'so thin it floods off immediately'. - Any other constructive crits and hints? Overall, pretty pleased with this guy. Next project is another White Dwarf freebie from years back; this Scout:  DUe to my absence of any darker coloured paints, he's going to be in desert camo, I think. thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 12, 2011 14:24
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thespaceinvader posted:until such time as I can figure out where I can get sand in small quantities in the local vicinity 
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Sep 12, 2011 14:40
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Lethemonster posted:I love the overall paint job but what really catches my eye is how nice your base is! I love the paint job on the floor, you've gotta give up how you did that sometime! I know this is from a few pages back but the base is from this tutorial. The rope is just three strands of soldering wire twisted together and glued on.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:43
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Little sand round here. It's Oxford, and it's autumn  That being said, I could probably improvise with something.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:45
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Shadeoses posted:Moustache probably wouldn't work. If you aren't going to put a mustache on this the whole project is a waste of time. Sorry, but you needed to hear the plain truth.
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Sep 12, 2011 14:56
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Lethemonster posted:I do wish they had the weight of a plastic/resin base though. I'm going to have to mould something into the bases to make sure they don't fall over. Gluing a washer to the underside of the base is cheap and easy.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:04
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Indolent Bastard posted:Gluing a washer to the underside of the base is cheap and easy. Good plan. Could use pennies too. Going to be cheeky and suggest it to people. The lighter they are the cheaper I can ship them atm. Thanks for the basing link btw person who is nice who posted that.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:12
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^^^^^^^^^^^ Consider saving on shipping weight and tell customers that their bases may not be as heavy as they would like, and that you recommend the use of washers or "other" counterweights glued to the bottom. No one should feel upset that you didn't do it yourself, especially if comes to an overall savings for your customers because of reduced shipping costs. Fake Edit: unless you have flat-rate shipping, then that poo poo don't matter. thespaceinvader posted:
If you do get sand from a beach, make sure you bake it at a relatively high temperature to kill off any and all bacteria, microbes and/or whale ejaculate before use. Alternately, let the sand sit in bleach water for a day then dry it out. As for improvising, consider granulated sugar. You'll have to use super glue to apply it instead of PVA, and you'll have to seal it with varnish before painting, but otherwise it's a good substitute for sand. Salt works as well, if you can't find sugar coarse enough for your tastes.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:21
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You can also go to a pet store and buy some aquarium sand.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:26
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Paying money for sand seems silly. I had thought about using sugar. I have some nice demarara which would probably do. But I was worried about it dissolving. Superglue would cover that though I guess. EDIT: I used to use some builders sand my folks had knocking around at home. I'll go digging next time I'm down there.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:33
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That doesn't even make sense. You don't want to pay money for sand, so you're going to use sugar? Do you have some hookup that gets you free sugar? Otherwise you're still paying for your basing material, it's just that it will be on your grocery bill instead of a separate purchase. Sugar is also a terrible substitute, because you are going to have to worry about it dissolving, getting sticky, and having children lick your miniatures. Sand is stupidly cheap, you can get 5lb bags for two dollars or something.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:41
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Ashcans posted:You can also go to a pet store and buy some aquarium sand. Large toy stores (Toys-r-Us and equivalents) also sell those large quantity bags of play sand you were talking about and I'm an utter moron for forgetting that. Sugar is all right in a pinch (pun!), but you are correct, sand is much better. EDIT: On the defense of sugar. When doing snow bases, sugar is a great way to add variation and depth to your snow; it gives it a sparkly, crisp quality that's hard to replicate with other things. If you ask me, glitter doesn't really do it by itself; part of having fresh snow is that it looks jagged and rough still, where as old, wind-smoothed snow will be flat but sparkly, which is what glitter is great for. Sole.Sushi fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 12, 2011 15:45
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Ashcans posted:That doesn't even make sense. You don't want to pay money for sand, so you're going to use sugar? Do you have some hookup that gets you free sugar? Otherwise you're still paying for your basing material, it's just that it will be on your grocery bill instead of a separate purchase. Sugar is also a terrible substitute, because you are going to have to worry about it dissolving, getting sticky, and having children lick your miniatures. Where am I going to put 5lb bags of sand? I don't exactly need that much. I know it's not entirely logical, but I see no reason to pay good money I don't have much of for what is the single commonest material on the planet, then chuck the vast majority of it out because I only need, say, 100 grams, and have nowhere to store it. I just don't have anywhere to get the stuff from for free.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:57
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Ashcans posted:If you aren't going to put a mustache on this the whole project is a waste of time. Sorry, but you needed to hear the plain truth. What about a Krieg gas mask?
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Sep 12, 2011 16:11
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There's nothing like taking photos of your minis with a real camera to make you want to quit painting forever. Close ups in 4000x3000 are not kind. WIP of my Janissary. God drat the helmet is rough. 
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Sep 12, 2011 18:47
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I live in San Diego about 5 minutes from three or four different beaches, and I buy my sand. The beach sand is way too fine. Doesn't produce all that much texture when you glue it down. I get coarse sand at Home Depot and it's cheap as hell. And I don't feel bad about buying a ton, because four goddamn armies (I guess 5 now that I started warmachine).
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Sep 12, 2011 19:09
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I won't ever make four armies* *note, comment may be in error, and may cost me much, much more than I expect >.<
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Sep 12, 2011 19:21
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:36 |
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So today I've been painting a Chaos Warrior as my first ever model that I've ever actually painted. I just slapped some Badab Black all over the base colours and I drastically need some reassurance that it's normal for the wash to look awful while it's still wet. I'm biting my nails from nervousness that I might have ruined the model.
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Sep 12, 2011 20:04
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