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About 15k can get you a pristine, documented, low miles (<60k) 2004-2005 330i/330Ci with premium/cold/sport packages. If you want a ZHP package (the "extra sport" package), it'll likely be a bit more, or get one with higher miles. The 2004 and 2005 models are nice because they're the last two models years of the E46 with all of the tweaks, upgrades, facelifts, and modernizations. Most notable is the 6-speed instead of 5-speed, and the Adaptive Xenons on the coupes (one of my favorite neato features). Plus they're only 6-8 years old so they tend to be lower miles and just generally in better shape on the used market. Here's a full year-to-year change log of the whole E46 run: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46#Changes_throughout_the_E46_run. And that whole wiki page is FULL of other E46 information. Guinness fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 12, 2011 22:11
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Shadowhand00 posted:Is the warranty included in the total? 2yr, 30,000mi. But I'm going to pass on it. As much as I'm sick of the PoS Chevy, I pay $80/mo in insurance and nothing else but gas. With the 330ci, I'm looking at about $525 or so in monthly expenses before fuel and maintenance. Just can't justify that in my current financial and employment situation.
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Sep 13, 2011 00:22
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Ridge_Runner_5 posted:2yr, 30,000mi. I don't blame you. 500+ a month for some used car with 90k miles? Run away screaming.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:17
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Time to play the "What the gently caress kind of noise is my engine making?" game. I'm getting a horrible noise coming from the engine on my ZHP when any throttle is applied. Hard to describe the sound so I made a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIl-4qAdXs8 You can hear it really well throughout the entire video. Only happens when I rev it. Also makes a similar sound after I turn the engine off. No CEL.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:18
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Crustashio posted:Time to play the "What the gently caress kind of noise is my engine making?" game. I'm getting a horrible noise coming from the engine on my ZHP when any throttle is applied. It sounds to me like you might have an air leak in the intake.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:22
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air/vacuum leak somewhere maybe?
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Sep 13, 2011 01:22
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Hmm. The PO did install an AFE intake (not sure the exact model, but it is a cone style). Guess I'll grab some carb cleaner and take a look tomorrow. If all else fails I'll just reinstall the old intake. Don't really give a poo poo about the noise it makes, and it sure doesn't do anything else.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:42
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In my (admittedly limited) experience, aftermarket intakes tend to make a sucking noise like what you had there.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:52
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Install the stock intake. Seriously. I'm not saying that because OMG2FAST, but several pages back there was a comment about the stock filter that's dead on -- it grabs air from the front grill. All the aftermarket intakes I've seen take air from inside the engine compartment which will naturally be warm air. Keep it if you want, but look at the designs and it will make sense.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:53
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Ridge_Runner_5 posted:But I'm going to pass on it. Good on you for making the financially-sound choice. Would insurance on the 330ci really be near/over $200/mo (judging from the ~350/mo on the loan)? I'm assuming that's full coverage, but daaaamn that's expensive.
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Sep 13, 2011 02:20
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Guinness posted:Good on you for making the financially-sound choice. Yeah full coverage, was ~$185 according to the website.
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Sep 13, 2011 03:12
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When doing the e46 front struts, it says in the Bentley to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel hub. To do that, I either need to find a ball joint removal tool, or buy new tie rods (pickle forks aren't that gentle on the ball joint). Do I really have to do this or can I just leave them attached? Anyone done this job?
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Sep 13, 2011 03:41
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Deceptor101 posted:When doing the e46 front struts, it says in the Bentley to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel hub. To do that, I either need to find a ball joint removal tool, or buy new tie rods (pickle forks aren't that gentle on the ball joint). Do I really have to do this or can I just leave them attached? Anyone done this job? Yeah, you really have to remove the tie rod and control arm from the knuckle to be able to get it off the strut. You are wise to not use the pickle fork as you will tear the boots if you do. I was able to get it done with a Pittman arm puller, but next time I do this, I will just get the proper ball joint tool:  http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html Another word to the wise: leave the nuts on the top of the studs while you press them out. I did not and ended up mushrooming the studs badly enough that I had to grind off the first couple turns of thread to get the nuts back on. SlapActionJackson fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Sep 13, 2011 |
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Sep 13, 2011 05:48
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Crustashio posted:I'm pretty tired of owning 2 BMWs. Once it's beyond repair/rusted through I'm gonna get rid of my 328 and pick up a used econobox. I think my 98 civic cost me about 1000 total in maintenance in the 5 years I owned it, and that was all done at a shop. I'd rather have one tiptop car and a beater over one slightly nice car and a money pit beater. We have an E34 and a 96' Nissan Maxima. The Maxima looks like poo poo but nothing short of rust will ever kill that car ever. Its a great backup when the BMW goes down.
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Sep 13, 2011 06:36
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Deceptor101 posted:When doing the e46 front struts, it says in the Bentley to disconnect the tie rods from the wheel hub. To do that, I either need to find a ball joint removal tool, or buy new tie rods (pickle forks aren't that gentle on the ball joint). Do I really have to do this or can I just leave them attached? Anyone done this job? I recently did front struts on my E46 and I didn't disconnect the tie rods. It wasn't the easiest job, but it's doable.
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Sep 13, 2011 14:59
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SlapActionJackson posted:Yeah, you really have to remove the tie rod and control arm from the knuckle to be able to get it off the strut. Taco Box posted:I recently did front struts on my E46 and I didn't disconnect the tie rods. It wasn't the easiest job, but it's doable. So I'm guessing that if I leave them connected, it becomes a much trickier job of getting everything to fit? If I use the ball joint removal tool for the tie rod and control arm, they'll be fine right? I should have just done this all at once and then I wouldn't have had to worry. Also, I'm pretty sure I know this one. But since all I'm installing is springs/shocks/struts and slightly lowering it, all I'm changing is the camber right? I shouldn't need an alignment?
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Sep 13, 2011 15:57
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SlapActionJackson posted:Yeah, you really have to remove the tie rod and control arm from the knuckle to be able to get it off the strut. I have this tool, and it is awesome. If you want to take it off my hands, throw me like  for shipping since I'm unlikely to ever use it again.
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Sep 13, 2011 16:34
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So, I'm not the smartest car buyer, and have been learning a lot reading here, so please be gentle. I financed a 06 325i last year with 48k miles on it, now I'm at 65k and the extended warranty plan I got runs through 9/2012. I will probably owe ~10k on it by that point next year. This is my 2nd car, after a new Jetta, so I've never had to deal with out-of-warranty stuff or budgeting for repairs. What should I start socking away? Maintenance for the entire life of the car has been done at the same dealership I take it to now, and has been serviced regularly, etc etc etc. I'm just trying to figure out if I should try to pay it off then dump it this time next year or keep it and go the "oh god, the brakes need replacing, there goes 2 months salary" kind of thing.
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Sep 13, 2011 17:32
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Finally getting ready for the dreaded cooling refresh on my E46. Holy crap are there a ton of parts to buy. I bought everything under the sun (~$200) and the list keeps growing. E46 owners must have severe OCD, because once you mention the replacement of a single part, they add on 50 more parts that should be replaced since you're in the area. Screw that. I've stopped growing the list and calling this the end of my initial purchase maintenance. So far I'm looking at ~$700 spent after acquiring the vehicle. About 10% of what I got it for. According to the Inspection I/II schedules, this thing should run for another 50k by changing oil and putting gas in the thing. Next weekend I will be doing the following: Upper/Lower radiator hoses Expansion tank replacement (OEM) Vanos oil line replacement (it's currently got a slow leak) Fuel filter Both belt replacements Water pump Thermostat Coolant flush And finally, oil/filter change If anything else needs replacement in the next 6 months I will drive this thing off a cliff.
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Sep 13, 2011 18:29
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Honestly, $700 in post-purchase maintenance and freshening up on a used BMW is really quite good. Assuming the rest of the vehicle is in good shape, the cooling system refresh should keep everything powertrain-related pretty happy for a long time to come with any luck. At least anything major. My E46 just ticked over 60k so I'm starting to have to think about some preventative cooling system stuff... I'll have to dig through the records to see what, if anything, has been done to the cooling system specifically. Bank posted:E46 owners must have severe OCD I think you'll find that true of car enthusiasts in general. I guarantee you that most cars out on the road "need" a couple grand worth in maintenance, fixes, and preventative work but "regular" people don't bother with that stuff until it prevents them from getting to work. It's just that Toyotas and Fords and such can take more of that type of neglect than a BMW or an Audi or something like that. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Sep 13, 2011 |
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Sep 13, 2011 18:57
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Yeah definitely not complaining about the cost. The amount of work and constant buying of miscellaneous parts is driving me bonkers though. I don't know what it is, but the gaskets and hoses on this car just don't want to last. It's gonna hit 80k in the next few months and it just amazes me that the hoses are already deteriorating. I guess it doesn't help that it's a 10+ year old car. Then again, I've had Hondas/Toyotas that old with no rubber part issues. I am glad nothing expensive broke such as the subframe. Had it checked out a few weeks ago and it's perfect. I knew what I was getting into with this car though, and I smile every time I get in it, so I'm happy.
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Sep 13, 2011 19:25
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Pissingintowind posted:I have this tool, and it is awesome. If you want to take it off my hands, throw me like Sure I'll take you up on that offer. Email me with your paypal or post in here or whatever. deceptor 101 at gmail dot com
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Sep 13, 2011 19:44
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Deceptor101 posted:Sure I'll take you up on that offer. Email me with your paypal or post in here or whatever. deceptor 101 at gmail dot com mbatchan AT gmail DOT com. It worked great for me. Throw a shipping address in there so I know where to send it. Hopefully it fits in a USPS flat rate box cuz it's kind of heavy! If it costs more than $10 to ship, I'll refund you and suggest you just head down to HF and get one for the $16 or so they're asking.
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Sep 13, 2011 22:33
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What are the common signs of a clutch going bad? I haven't done the clutch delay valve or anything, but this morning, when I shifted into second, I had a slight grinding that wasn't something I've heard before. *I burned the clutch the other day while trying to get out of Candlestick Park going uphill.
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Sep 14, 2011 00:02
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Bank posted:Next weekend I will be doing the following: well.........you might as well do the belt tensioners and pulleys too!
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Sep 14, 2011 02:39
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Deceptor101 posted:So I'm guessing that if I leave them connected, it becomes a much trickier job of getting everything to fit? If I use the ball joint removal tool for the tie rod and control arm, they'll be fine right? I guess it's possible to do without removing the tie rods, then, but I think it would be much easier to just remove them than to try and work around them. Proper removal will not hurt the control arm or tie rod. Deceptor101 posted:But since all I'm installing is springs/shocks/struts and slightly lowering it, all I'm changing is the camber right? I shouldn't need an alignment? In theory, you're only changing the camber, but you're still mucking around with the front suspension. You should probably spring for an alignment though I guess it's not strictly necessary.
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Sep 14, 2011 04:03
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Keyser S0ze posted:well.........you might as well do the belt tensioners and pulleys too! Should have done those when I did the cooling system refresh. Now I've got a squeak, I think it's the alternator pulley or the tensioner 
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Sep 14, 2011 04:04
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Keyser S0ze posted:well.........you might as well do the belt tensioners and pulleys too!
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Sep 14, 2011 04:38
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televiper posted:Should have done those when I did the cooling system refresh. Now I've got a squeak, I think it's the alternator pulley or the tensioner Yep! The good thing is they are pretty easy to get at. I'm in the same boat. Did all the cooling/belts/pulleys but need to get around to the tensioners since I just hit 119k miles on the way back from an 800 mile road trip up to Oregon. My A/C has been making a lot of noise this summer, I'm sure that tensioner may be the culprit unless it's the compressor on its last legs.
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Sep 14, 2011 04:43
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So, I am wanting to get more involved with some of my local groups that do track events. My E46 has the factory sport package with has the staggered 17x7.5 fronts and 17x8.5 rears, running 225/45 and 245/40 respectively. The car is stock, but in pretty good shape to romp around a track/course. However, I'd like to find a different set of rims to use for track events. I don't need any race-specific wheels and tires, and would preferably like to go with a wheel that is cheap and can fit tire sizes that are also cheap to find. Any suggestions? Attached is what I currently have on there, and dont wanna screw those up. Any suggestions?
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Sep 14, 2011 19:21
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Shadowhand00 posted:What are the common signs of a clutch going bad? I haven't done the clutch delay valve or anything, but this morning, when I shifted into second, I had a slight grinding that wasn't something I've heard before. How many miles on the car? Usually what'll happen on a bad clutch is you won't engage fully, you'll feel it slipping when the clutch is fully released. There's always the Cartalk test. (put your fender against a tree and put the car in 5th gear. give the car gas and drop the clutch. if it stalls, the clutch is fine.) There's probably lots of better ways, but that's one.
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Sep 14, 2011 19:24
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Fermunky posted:So, I am wanting to get more involved with some of my local groups that do track events. My E46 has the factory sport package with has the staggered 17x7.5 fronts and 17x8.5 rears, running 225/45 and 245/40 respectively. The car is stock, but in pretty good shape to romp around a track/course. However, I'd like to find a different set of rims to use for track events. I don't need any race-specific wheels and tires, and would preferably like to go with a wheel that is cheap and can fit tire sizes that are also cheap to find. Any suggestions? Attached is what I currently have on there, and dont wanna screw those up. Any suggestions? If you're doing full-on track events, please be sure to upgrade your brake pads to something that can stand up to the temperatures. If you're looking for a decent set of track wheels, Tire Rack has a line of cheap wheels (TRMotorsport) that look pretty nice, and they're also fairly light. 17" is a pretty common diameter.
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Sep 14, 2011 19:34
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Yep, get some TRM's if you don't want to spring for O.Z's and 225/17's all around so you can powerslide a bit. I see folks at the track with them and some Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec's as their track set of tires.
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Sep 14, 2011 19:54
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Also recommending the TRMs... I'd go with Hankook Z214 tires though since they're not too expensive and have great grip/wear. edit: maybe Hankook R-S3s would be better since you probably have to drive to/from the track on them. RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Sep 14, 2011 |
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Sep 14, 2011 20:06
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Fermunky posted:So, I am wanting to get more involved with some of my local groups that do track events. My E46 has the factory sport package with has the staggered 17x7.5 fronts and 17x8.5 rears, running 225/45 and 245/40 respectively. The car is stock, but in pretty good shape to romp around a track/course. However, I'd like to find a different set of rims to use for track events. I don't need any race-specific wheels and tires, and would preferably like to go with a wheel that is cheap and can fit tire sizes that are also cheap to find. Any suggestions? Attached is what I currently have on there, and dont wanna screw those up. Any suggestions? Kosei K1's. 17x8.5 @ 17lbs. Star specs, kumho xs, bstone re11 are all great choices.
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Sep 14, 2011 20:57
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RapeWhistle posted:edit: maybe Hankook R-S3s would be better since you probably have to drive to/from the track on them. Well, that was in question as well, if I would carry the wheels there and swap on at the event, which would be preferred.
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Sep 14, 2011 21:28
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BraveUlysses posted:Kosei K1's. I have this setup (squared) on my e36 M3. I love it.
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Sep 14, 2011 21:47
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Pissingintowind posted:mbatchan AT gmail DOT com. A friend of mine just offered to help me tomorrow with this install so it looks like I have to head to HF tonight and grab it. Thanks for the offer though.
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Sep 15, 2011 01:05
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I think this was covered in the past, but figured it hasn't been discussed in the most recent pages.... So make a long story short, my soon to be Ex wife said that all M cars are dumb and pointless and car hobby is stupid. I guess I was lucky to even get my 540i. She just got her car to keep up with her snooty family. Anyways enough E/N. I am going to buy an M car of some kind. I happened to see that the E46 M3's are becoming quite reasonable in price. I have seen a few with SMG's. I am not against a clutch by any means, the SMG just seems pretty neat. Can any one tell me horror/awesome stories about owning one over the long term?
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Sep 15, 2011 04:03
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Fermunky posted:Well, that was in question as well, if I would carry the wheels there and swap on at the event, which would be preferred. I forgot to mention D-Force... great track wheels at a great price: http://store.bimmerworld.com/d-force-ltw5---3-series-e364690-p894.aspx
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Sep 15, 2011 04:11
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