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Never, never wear gloves when using power tools, or anywhere near moving belts or pulleys. Your hand can and will get trapped. You're much better off without.
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Sep 10, 2011 05:48
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Stopped at one hardware store, one smoke shop, and two gas stations looking for the right butane to refill an old Calibri lighter. Found some "Bernzomatic" and some "Ronson" butane, for soldering and refilling lighters (respectively). They seem like they have the same nozzle on the end, neither of which will refill my lighter. I think this lighter is from the 60s, give or take 10 years. I don't want to order something online to find that it has the same problem as the two canisters I already have. Where should I look for the proper butane to refill my lighter? Can I rig up an adapter to fit what I have?
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Sep 11, 2011 00:43
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Local Yokel posted:Stopped at one hardware store, one smoke shop, and two gas stations looking for the right butane to refill an old Calibri lighter. Found some "Bernzomatic" and some "Ronson" butane, for soldering and refilling lighters (respectively). They seem like they have the same nozzle on the end, neither of which will refill my lighter. Might help to post a pic of said lighter.
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Sep 11, 2011 02:37
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Leatherworking thread died, eh? Well, if anyone is interested, Tandy Leather's Ultimate Workshop is on sale for $500 again. e: Oh, lookie. All of their tool sets are on sale. Silly me 
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Sep 11, 2011 02:50
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Local Yokel posted:Stopped at one hardware store, one smoke shop, and two gas stations looking for the right butane to refill an old Calibri lighter. Found some "Bernzomatic" and some "Ronson" butane, for soldering and refilling lighters (respectively). They seem like they have the same nozzle on the end, neither of which will refill my lighter. Some butane is sold with a cap containing a number of different adapters. Otherwise, I would search Calibri + adapter + butane & see if someone sells something for that online. Such as: http://www.elighters.com/c1.html?gclid=CILZzqSLlKsCFc465Qod7BiWfA
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Sep 11, 2011 02:55
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thelightguy posted:Never, never wear gloves when using power tools, or anywhere near moving belts or pulleys. Your hand can and will get trapped. You're much better off without. That depends entirely on the power tool. For instance, you'll probably want to wear welding gloves if you're doing a lot of welding, otherwise what you're working on can get too hot to handle.
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Sep 11, 2011 03:19
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By power tool, I meant tool with moving parts. Of course you'll want to wear welding gloves when welding, even if you're using a torch and not a MIG or TIG welder.
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Sep 11, 2011 03:39
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peepsalot posted:Might help to post a pic of said lighter.  I happened across that Colibri refill earlier. I'm worried that it's similar to the universal type that I already have, and that I need to find something obscure or with an adapter. I know I've seen one of those butanes with the cap & adapters....but that was about 15 years ago. Want to find one of those somewhere.
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Sep 11, 2011 04:29
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Local Yokel posted:
Could you take it to a cigar shop? Seems like that would be the place that would carry high end lighters and/or have people who know poo poo about them. Unless there's such a thing as a lighter store.
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Sep 11, 2011 14:58
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I live in termite country (aka Florida) and have a tree stump that's begging to be chewed up in my back yard. I've carved up a hole in the center of the stump, about three to four inches deep, and I've heard a half dozen different remedies to fill the stump with in order to kill any remnants of the tree and any insect that might be munching on it. I've tried gasoline and borax so far, but obviously I can't tell right away if those have done anything effective. I'm not even sure how much of said products I should be using on it. I'm mostly just curious if anyone has any other suggestions or if I'm going about this the wrong way entirely. Or if I'm totally doing everything like I should be doing, I'd appreciate hearing that too. 
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Sep 11, 2011 23:31
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Ballz posted:Or if I'm totally doing everything like I should be doing, I'd appreciate hearing that too. I read a lot of the same stuff and decided to just hire someone to come out and grind the stumps below the grade. It cost about $500 for a few hours work with a stump grinder, but I had one small pine stump and two huge (hard) madrone stumps to deal with.
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Sep 12, 2011 01:51
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I read a lot of the same stuff and decided to just hire someone to come out and grind the stumps below the grade. It cost about $500 for a few hours work with a stump grinder, but I had one small pine stump and two huge (hard) madrone stumps to deal with. Yeah, but spending a couple hundred bucks doesn't really appeal to me at this time. When I had some Terminix inspectors drop by recently, they were the ones to suggest the gasoline route. I'm just not sure how much I should pour in or how often I should do it. The guys at the hardware store instead recommended Borax, but that's a solid power so I'm unclear how it'd work its way down the tree's root system to kill any potential termites that might have already infested it.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:27
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I had this big stump in my backyard. I tried all the bullshit methods like borax, stump decayer (these little pellets you pour into holes drilled into the stump), chipping away at it with an axe, etc. I got sick of waiting for those to work, so I rented a stump grinder. Cost in the neighborhood of $80, and took about 2 hours to grind the sucker out: They're usually tow-behind, so you need something with a trailer hitch to get it from the rental place to the stump. Once you get it there, though, it's surprisingly easy to use - just a lot of repetitive back-and-forth, grinding it away.
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Sep 12, 2011 15:43
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Ballz posted:Yeah, but spending a couple hundred bucks doesn't really appeal to me at this time. When I had some Terminix inspectors drop by recently, they were the ones to suggest the gasoline route. I'm just not sure how much I should pour in or how often I should do it. The guys at the hardware store instead recommended Borax, but that's a solid power so I'm unclear how it'd work its way down the tree's root system to kill any potential termites that might have already infested it. Cost can vary a lot depending on how many stumps, what species, how large they are and whether you rent a machine or hire it out. The idea behind most of those methods is to increase the rate of decay. I cringe at the thought of pouring gasoline out into the environment. The borax may just be confusion, since that's what many pest control places use to kill and control ants. Terro ant traps are just borax and corn syrup, for example. Can you bury it with dirt?
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Sep 12, 2011 16:16
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Well the big concern for me are the termites. Burying it wouldn't help, and even simply pulling up the stump leaves the risk of buried roots that termites can still feast on and then move on to my house that's only ten feet away. Killing anything that's currently eating it and then helping speed up the decay process seems the safest bet to go with. For what it's worth, I believe the tree was some kind of rosewood, with the stump about 15 - 20 inches across. When it was first cut down a couple of years ago, the damned thing kept growing back, but in the last six months or so it seems to have finally given up the ghost and the stump has finally begun to rot.
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Sep 12, 2011 16:35
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My pet bunnies (or maybe the kitties? But likely the bunnies) have eaten through my USB webcam cord. I'd rather repair it than buy a new one. I figured I had to solder the wires together, my husband thinks I can get away with stripping the wires and wrapping them together, no soldering. Who's right? Of course, I know enough to wrap either method up in a generous amount of electrical tape.
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Sep 13, 2011 01:32
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Bean posted:My pet bunnies (or maybe the kitties? But likely the bunnies) have eaten through my USB webcam cord. I'd rather repair it than buy a new one. I figured I had to solder the wires together, my husband thinks I can get away with stripping the wires and wrapping them together, no soldering. Who's right? Yes, the proper fix would be to chop the cable, strip maybe an inch of each end including the tips of each of the individual USB wires, and solder them back together using heatshrink tape to cover the solder joints. The solder adds mechanical strength to the connection, whereas if you just twist the wires together you could pull them apart easily by tugging on the cable, electrical tape or not. Heat shrink tubing is superior to electrical tape for this sort of thing, and its good to have a variety-pack around for quick repairs like this, especially if you have and know how to use a soldering iron. But electrical tape will do, as long as each of the 4 wires in the cable is individually taped to prevent them from touching each other. your husband isn't really wrong, but you're more right.
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Sep 13, 2011 02:01
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And remember to put the heat shrink on the cable before you start soldering. I can't count the number of times I've been like, "Okay, got the wires soldered up, now I'll put the heat shrink on and...awww poo poo!"
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Sep 13, 2011 03:36
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SkunkDuster posted:And remember to put the heat shrink on the cable before you start soldering. I can't count the number of times I've been like, "Okay, got the wires soldered up, now I'll put the heat shrink on and...awww poo poo!" It's one of those lessons you learn on your own by screwing it up enough times that you finally remember.
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Sep 13, 2011 05:06
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This may be the wrong place to ask but I found no other threads on SA even mentioning Arduino and nothing on Google, so please indulge me. I built a Freeduino BBB with an ATmega328 that won't.loving.blink. The Arduino IDE claims that the upload happens, the USB TX/RX lights blink blink blink, but pin 13 just sits there, steadfastly green. I touched-up the connections on the chip and while they aren't pretty they look ok. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? Ancillary question, what's a good soldering iron and station to buy for home use? I'd like something reliable and while I'm not opposed to spending money, I don't necessarily need something that can stand up to 10,000 hours of industrial use.
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Sep 13, 2011 06:43
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Plastic Jesus posted:This may be the wrong place to ask but I found no other threads on SA even mentioning Arduino and nothing on Google, so please indulge me. There's an electronics thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977
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Sep 13, 2011 13:22
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Plastic Jesus posted:Ancillary question, what's a good soldering iron and station to buy for home use? I'd like something reliable and while I'm not opposed to spending money, I don't necessarily need something that can stand up to 10,000 hours of industrial use. I like this one (Solder Station Temperature Controlled, third from top, $40). I've had it for a few years and it's been great. My college used them and the lab I work at now has one.
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Sep 13, 2011 14:57
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Cosmik Debris posted:I like this one (Solder Station Temperature Controlled, third from top, $40). I've had it for a few years and it's been great. My college used them and the lab I work at now has one. Do you get much use out of the variable temperature? I started out with a basic Weller then upgraded to a basic on/off base and that's done well for me so far. I'm just wondering if there is something I'm missing out on without variable temperature.
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Sep 13, 2011 18:25
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I work on a lot of older musical equipment like transistor organs and I needed variable temperature to keep the copper from becoming unattached to the circuit boards. I kept ruining stuff because my iron was too hot. You can also ramp the heat down to keep from melting ICs while you solder the leads. Sometimes they don't give you very long leads.
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Sep 13, 2011 18:39
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Ballz posted:Well the big concern for me are the termites. Burying it wouldn't help, and even simply pulling up the stump leaves the risk of buried roots that termites can still feast on and then move on to my house that's only ten feet away. Killing anything that's currently eating it and then helping speed up the decay process seems the safest bet to go with. My solution has always been a large bonfire on top of the stump. Doesn't do anything for the roots, but get a hot enough fire going and you'll get some of those along with it. If you're really concerned about termites, get a bond on your house. A friend of mine just found out her 5 year old house had an infestation with about $20k in damage. It was built right, she was just unlucky.
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Sep 14, 2011 03:19
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I have an unusual situation that is causing me great distress. I just moved into one room of a warehouse. The main room is a metal workshop, and the second room is a band practice space, where bands practice about 4 days a week, 3-6 hours on end. I knew going in that things would be loud, but it's turned out to be unbearable. The main problem is that there was previously a large window between my room and the band room, and I didn't realize until I moved in that it's only covered by a piece of plywood. All the other walls are solid; the bands aren't bothersome when I'm in the main room and the main room isn't bothersome when I'm in my room So how can I insulate this window against the continuous wall of sound flowing through it on the quick/cheap/easy?
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Sep 14, 2011 04:35
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mrmanatee posted:So how can I insulate this window against the continuous wall of sound flowing through it on the quick/cheap/easy? Unfortunately sound proofing is neither easy nor quick nor cheap. To block sound effectively you need multiple layers because the transition from one medium to another is what causes sound energy to be absorbed. Depending on how much money you're trying to spend you can buy sound deadening sheet rock that might block the vast majority of the sound but you'll still be able to hear some stuff. But even then that would involve building a wall. And even then they recommend you put other stuff in the wall. And it gets pricey. Multiple sheets of plywood with sound insulating caulk between them would help, but that is still pretty expensive because you'd need a lot of caulk to cover a 4x8 sheet of plywood, and the caulk itself is not cheap, and you'd need at least 3 or 4 layers. And there might never be anything you can do about the kick drum or bass guitar. Low frequencies travel through solid material like concrete slabs exceptionally well and if the bands' drums or bass amp are directly on the floor you could be able to hear them easily regardless of what you do to the window. You can ask that they put that stuff on risers but good luck with that.
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Sep 14, 2011 13:54
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Bank fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 19, 2011 |
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Sep 14, 2011 18:27
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Cosmik Debris posted:Unfortunately sound proofing is neither easy nor quick nor cheap. To block sound effectively you need multiple layers because the transition from one medium to another is what causes sound energy to be absorbed. Depending on how much money you're trying to spend you can buy sound deadening sheet rock that might block the vast majority of the sound but you'll still be able to hear some stuff. But even then that would involve building a wall. And even then they recommend you put other stuff in the wall. And it gets pricey. I don't need anything to be completely soundproofed; I just need it dulled enough that I can still hear other things in my room, cuz right now it's like standing in front of a live band for 5 hours. I was thinking maybe a couple layers of foam and plywood.
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Sep 15, 2011 12:35
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Foam is actually kind of hit or miss when it comes to sound proofing. Foam is mostly used in recording studios to eliminate standing waves (the reverb-y things that make your voice sound good in the shower) and on microphones to eliminate wind noise. You want to use the densest materials possible to deaden sound. If you use foam get dense, heavy foam. The cheapest and quickest thing I could probably recommend is using two sheets of medium density fiber board (otherwise known as MDF) with the densest piece of spongy foam that you can get sandwiched in the middle. If you can swing it, put as many different dense sheets of material as you can find in there as well. a sheet of vinyl, a sheet of rubber, whatever you can get your hands on. It won't be perfect but it should help. And eliminate as many gaps as you can. Really attach that sucker to the wall, preferably with only a bead of sound insulating adhesive caulk around the edge if the window is smaller than 4x8. If it's bigger than 4x8, you'll have to come up with a way to affix it.
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Sep 15, 2011 14:16
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How large a window? Could you frame out that opening with a sheet of Quietrock? Sure, it's expensive per-sheet, but you'd probably only need one.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Sep 15, 2011 |
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Sep 15, 2011 21:17
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Plastic Jesus posted:This may be the wrong place to ask but I found no other threads on SA even mentioning Arduino and nothing on Google, so please indulge me. A bit late, but Aoyue makes some "cheap Chinese poo poo" that's surprisingly good. It's more like a mild downgrade from Hakko than Weller, but they have good features that aren't horribly implemented and won't break.
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Sep 15, 2011 23:12
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mrmanatee posted:I don't need anything to be completely soundproofed; Just stuff it with insulation and sheetrock over it, that will block most of the noise. Beyond that you're getting into offsetting wall studs and expensive materials, probably beyond the scope of what you're willing to do.
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Sep 16, 2011 00:01
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So I'm building a beer pong table that I intend to paint with the logo I've attached (I made a rough vector image in case I needed to blow it up), so that I can pass it on to our underclassman and all the graduates of the year can sign it. The only problem is that I have no clue how to approach painting this logo on a 4x8 piece of plywood! I'm awful at doing anything artistic that requires a steady hand, so I'm not quite sure how to approach painting this logo onto the 4x8 board. Thanks guys! LOGO!
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Sep 16, 2011 20:55
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Print it on a transparency, shoot the transparency at the 4x8 using an overhead projector and trace it.
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Sep 16, 2011 21:50
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thelightguy posted:Print it on a transparency, shoot the transparency at the 4x8 using an overhead projector and trace it. Was just about to suggest this. Alternately find an art major and offer them an 8th
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Sep 16, 2011 21:51
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jizzsock posted:My solution has always been a large bonfire on top of the stump. Doesn't do anything for the roots, but get a hot enough fire going and you'll get some of those along with it. If you're really concerned about termites, get a bond on your house. A friend of mine just found out her 5 year old house had an infestation with about $20k in damage. It was built right, she was just unlucky. A mycologist (fungi expert) told me to pour sugar water on stumps to promote fungal decay. I poured sugar water on a stump at my old house maybe bi-weekly for a couple of months and it really did start to decay faster, but then I moved. We also set it on fire twice and chopped it with an axe. Fucker was SOLID. It was just in the most annoying spot - in a tiny grass patch between the back driveway and side driveway so if the stump wasn't there we could have driven all the way across the yard and eliminate everyone having to move cars when someone got boxed in.
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Sep 17, 2011 02:57
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I just bought an ikea couch with a removable slip cover off craig's list. The cover was pure white and still in the packaging, and the seller assured me it would be simple to go to ikea and exchange it for any other color. Well it turns out while the white cover is cheap, the others are all $150-$250 and the 150 ones aren't that great. I really don't like the idea of a white couch, so I was thinking about dyeing the cover if it is cheaper than a new one. I have never dyed anything before, anyone have any advice? Here is the cover: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80047602 It's 100% cotton/linen, machine washable, and weighs 14lbs. Is it ok just to use the RIT stuff they sell at most big stores? Can I just do it a big plastic bin? The laundry machine in my building is a front loader so I don't think I can do it in there. I found a couple of blogs about doing this, and they used RIT, but they didn't answer everything. One of them uses just 3 packages of dye and one uses 12 so I wasn't sure how much to use. http://arricka.blogspot.com/2009/12/how-to-dye-ektorp-slipcover.html http://blog.adrianbischoff.com/2011/07/27/dyeing-ikea-ektorp-loveseat-cover/ They also mentioned this dye: http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3796-AA.shtml?lnav=dyes.html but it looks way more involved, needs some other ingredients and I would need to order it all. I would be happy if I had something that was a decent brown color than didn't bleed onto stuff when sat on. hbf fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 19:34
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I bought a wooden dollhouse at a yard sale and would like to give it to my daughter for Christmas. However, it requires a little TLC. I would like to spruce it up, refinish it or varnish it and stain it or whatever, but I have no idea where to start. She's almost 3, so it has to be kid friendly and non toxic. Can anyone give me a good starting point and point me in the direction of the correct supplies?
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Sep 18, 2011 20:56
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Moms Stuffing posted:it has to be kid friendly and non toxic. Can anyone give me a good starting point I'd use it as a model and copy it in materials I knew the provenance of. You bought it at a yard sale, it could have anything in it. The older it is, the worse it could be. If you have the skills to spruce it up, you can duplicate it. Sorry, I know that's not the most pleasant answer, but v  v.
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Sep 18, 2011 21:13
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