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Had a small oil leak from the left side of the bike, determined it was the generator cover gasket. Since I had the day off, I went about changing that out along with an oil change. Spent 4 hours scraping that old loving gasket off and about an hour doing the rest of the poo poo. Next time I'm getting some gasket remover spray. Still have to put it all back together, fill her up with oil and see how badly I hosed up.
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Sep 8, 2011 17:28
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| # ? May 22, 2024 11:44 |
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get a soda blaster or sandblaster and use baking soda. your life will be a million times easier and if you ever have to do a headgasket you'll thank me.
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Sep 8, 2011 19:36
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Yesterday, my chain broke and tore through my carbon rear tire hugger. Luckily the case saver did its job.  So today I installed a new RK o-ring chain. Just gotta go ride it then oil it.
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Sep 8, 2011 23:31
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Grounded the condensers to the frame rather than the lovely battery basket with some 8 AWG wire. The install looks pretty clean. I could have tucked it better but it's going behind a sidecover so no fucks will be given.  Wire attached to the condenser ground  Wire barely peeking out from behind engine mount where it's grounded  Altogether pretty clean install. I also melted the numbers off my credit card today in anticipation of a new job. I might have to move and I have no loving clue if I'll have a garage or what. So I'm saying gently caress it and getting as many bikes running as I can, while I can. Spent $100 at Harbor Freight on some hardware and blasting media $75 for CB400 carb parts $30 for sparkplug wire caps Spent a shitton at manassas honda too, I don't even remember everything I ordered but I know I've got CB450 ppoints, GL1000 oil filter, 8 D8EA sparkplugs, a dyna S for the GL1000, cb200 petcock screen, um... and some other poo poo I'll be surprised by because I forget.
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Sep 9, 2011 06:06
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I rolled over 50,000 miles on the SV650 this morning. Was at the gap for fifty races, rolled it over somewhere around mile marker 5 around midnight. Couldn't think of a better place to roll over 50k on that bike. I bought the bike in September of 09, didn't ride from June (10) to Jan (11) due to health issues but otherwise commute year round. Has been a great little bike.
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Sep 10, 2011 15:10
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OMG. My 2000 SV650, after I tried my own hand at re-wiring the bike and installing a new R/R a month ago, didn't respond successfully to the mods. So I kept it on a charger since. A recently-moved-in roommate of my girlfriend's, who had extensive electrical experience as a kid and built his own motorcycle, asked to look at the bike after hearing my story. Turns out I configured the red and black wiring connector, which goes from the R/R to the battery, the wrong way. The black/red was switched. He showed me how fuses kept on blowing due to that. D-loving-oh. And now the bike's one happy girl. Volts show a healthy charging system. I rejoiced heavily with some jagermeister with the extremely helpful roommate after the fact last night.
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Sep 10, 2011 17:15
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Patched a leak I got from a toothpick (seriously, a loving toothpick), rebalanced the tire, and tensioned the chain down. Added bonus, I forgot to tighten the axle bolt all the way in since I was so giddy to go riding, but I remembered after a couple of minutes down the road.
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Sep 10, 2011 18:15
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After installing my pod air filter and having it bog and die under throttle even when changing jets from a #70 to a #80, I found out I have a head gasket leak. I thought I blew a hole in my piston at first but apparently the stock piston looks like that. I dismantled the top end and cleaned the surfaces and gasket before applying a coat of copper spray only to discover that the can I purchased that afternoon did not contain a spray nozzle. So now I'll have to wait until tomorrow morning to exchange it. I figured I'd try the spray first before ordering a new gasket set and having to wait another week for it to arrive.
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Sep 11, 2011 05:32
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Well it was more like all weekend but...  
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Sep 11, 2011 18:21
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Gnaghi posted:Well it was more like all weekend but... Not bad for your first time! Mostly, I see stuff that's twisted too tight. It should be one full pull of the pliers for every inch of wire, or less. 10-12 twists per inch, with 6 being acceptable. Also, you probably want to twist your cut ends around into little pigtails so there aren't pointy ends sticking out. Argh, now I've gotta go safety-wire something.
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Sep 11, 2011 18:30
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Wow they require you to drill the side cover bolts? We only require bolts that have fluid directly behind them.
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Sep 11, 2011 19:01
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Not bad for your first time! Mostly, I see stuff that's twisted too tight. It should be one full pull of the pliers for every inch of wire, or less. 10-12 twists per inch, with 6 being acceptable. Also, you probably want to twist your cut ends around into little pigtails so there aren't pointy ends sticking out. Thanks! The first job, the oil filter cover, took about five tries but after that it got easier and mostly wasn't too bad. I liked using the pliers which I guess is why I twisted everything too much.  Z3n posted:Wow they require you to drill the side cover bolts? We only require bolts that have fluid directly behind them. All the bikes I checked out at the last event had it done, and the tech guy said I have to do it. The actual rulebook doesn't say it is required, but it seems the rulebook changes a lot. I started the front brake caliper bolts, also not required but done on a lot of the bikes there. Some even had the rad cap done, which I don't get since you need to run water and water wetter anyway.
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Sep 11, 2011 19:17
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Well, safety wire is half a mechanical protection against loosening, and half a way for the tech inspectors to visually check that things are secured. As such, all jesus bolts should be safety wired, or at the very least, RTVed to note that they have been torque checked. I safety wire front and rear calipers, axles, radiator cap, oil fill cap, any bolt that will produce oil or coolant from the bolt hole if it's removed, oil filter (or cover), any drain bolts (including water jacket/pump drain bolts), plus I like to safety wire the hose clamps on the radiator hoses, half because of potential failure, and half because it means I carefully inspect each hose for failure. At track levels of lean, it doesn't matter if you hit unexpected water or coolant, you're probably going down. Not a huge deal on a supermoto track most of the time, but much more of a problem roadracing. CCT bolts aren't a bad idea to check and RTV or safety wire, depending on how accessible it is. But then again, I approach paranoid schizophrenic levels of care about my trackbike maintenance these days, after having a bunch of near misses with stuff that could have been avoided with proper preventitive care. It's another reason trackbikes should be clean, so that you can quickly and easily notice anything that's out of place or dirty, as well as inspecting the bike while you clean.
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Sep 11, 2011 19:29
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I wouldn't mind going to town on it if I had the proper tools and time, but the event is this week and I just used up all of home depot's cobalt bits across three different hand drills and still didn't get through one front caliper bolt. Them be some hardened bolts.
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Sep 11, 2011 20:26
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I exchanged my nozzle-less can of gasket spray with a proper one and applied coats to both sides of the old gasket before reinstalling it. I did the carburetor cleaner trick and it worked fine for a bit, but started leaking again after a steady 35 MPH or so run to the grocery store and back. I also taped up about 2/3 of my K&N filter and that seems to have stopped it from starving for fuel once I get up to speed. It is still less restrictive than the stock air box. Tomorrow I'll be ordering a new gasket set and try to figure out how to install the temperature sensor I bought, as the space between the cooling fins is too narrow for the ring and wire to fit properly.
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Sep 11, 2011 21:58
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Gnaghi posted:I wouldn't mind going to town on it if I had the proper tools and time, but the event is this week and I just used up all of home depot's cobalt bits across three different hand drills and still didn't get through one front caliper bolt. Them be some hardened bolts. A drill press and some cutting oil, as well as going slow, really helps.
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Sep 11, 2011 22:07
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Gnaghi posted:Well it was more like all weekend but... Kinda hard to tell from the pic but it looks like some of yours are wired backwards. If you're no-poo poo lockwiring then the wire should be pulled in a direction such that the bolt(s) visibly cannot budge to the left at all without breaking the wire. Some googling turned up this as a guide:  Lockwiring is one of those things like soldering or wire lacing that is entirely too specific and esoteric to really be of much use but once you get it down it becomes second nature and you find yourself being super-anal about getting it just right. I have no idea what the reqs/specs are as far as racing.
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Sep 12, 2011 01:27
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That lockwiring job will do, and I'm sure you learned a lot from doing it, but it looks like every bolt can still unscrew, even if just a little. The wires should be tightly-but-not-too-tightly always pulling the bolts clockwise. Though, with what you've done, they'll not ever fall off completely, which is a bonus in and of itself.
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Sep 12, 2011 02:58
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Fitted a couple of rubber washers that were missing from the footpeg mounting bolts. The right peg has been wobbly since I bought the bike, but I hadn't gotten around to doing anything about it, plus the OEM washers were like $7/each and I needed at least 4. Luckily, I found some nearly identical ones on a discount online water heater shop, less than $1/each 
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Sep 12, 2011 10:53
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Aprilia, instead of using wellnuts like the rest of the entire world, attached the Tuono's windscreen using single-use toothed press fittings. So having already fitted my new double-bubble screen and sworn sufficiently at the stock fasteners, I replaced them all with M5 button heads and nylock bolts. Also removed the slightly rusty axle nuts, cleaned and sprayed them gun metal. Purely cosmetic but there you go. For some reason the fasteners have taken a bit of a beating on this bike. Over two weeks of use I've reminded myself my riding is a bit hard on bikes' finish. Having seen a bit of pebbledashing on the fork legs already (second rate roads, traffic and velocity), I'm experimenting with black electrical tape. We'll see if it stays on.
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Sep 12, 2011 13:57
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Geirskogul posted:That lockwiring job will do, and I'm sure you learned a lot from doing it, but it looks like every bolt can still unscrew, even if just a little. The wires should be tightly-but-not-too-tightly always pulling the bolts clockwise. Though, with what you've done, they'll not ever fall off completely, which is a bonus in and of itself. Snowdens Secret posted:Lockwiring is one of those things like soldering or wire lacing that is entirely too specific and esoteric to really be of much use but once you get it down it becomes second nature and you find yourself being super-anal about getting it just right. I have no idea what the reqs/specs are as far as racing. Well I could tell it wasn't perfect, but those wires are a lot tighter than they look in pictures. The track regs are tough on paper, but easy apparently on track. For example regs state no one can have water bottles and the like as catch cans, yet most people there do. Some have every drat thing wired, which I was told is a "good example to follow", while some don't hardly have anything. I myself will definitely continue to lock up the rest of the bike properly once I get an event under my belt, but for now I'm trying to just get it back together and in good clean shape in time for this Sunday.
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Sep 13, 2011 03:23
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Just got a box of treats - all the parts to make some new SS brake lines. Gonna change out the brake pads while I am in there.
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Sep 14, 2011 19:50
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Lil updates for my Supermoto DR650 project, bunch of goodies. Thanks for the 3 day weekend Got some new rubbers.. Michelin Pilot Road 2's for the supermoto wheels:  Shinko 244 for the stock wheels so I can still dual sport.  And something to help slow it all down, an EBC 320mm kit for stock wheels (Already have same kit on the Sun Supermotos, so will make the wheel swap a very quick change over)  Currently the Sun Supermoto wheels I have are mounted with Kenda 270 knobbies (Got them this way from the previous owner) Decided to upgrade the suspension a bit too. Cogent Rear shock with Eibach Spring   Ricor Fork Valves - Intimidators  Stiffer fork springs  Also picked up a FMF Powerbomb Header, previous owner installed the stock heat shield on it, thinking I may take this off and use some fiberglass exhaust wrap 
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Sep 16, 2011 00:45
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Replaced a few spokes I broke on my DT175's front wheel. I also went to Yamaha and ordered an oil seal since the one between the speedometer gear and drum is leaking. I also cleaned and sanded the drum and brake shoes since there was some grease on them. At least I found out why my front brake was weaker than the rear. I want to get new shoes but I'm too broke at the moment.
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Sep 16, 2011 06:09
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Installed some carbon fiber details, looks pretty sweet!
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Sep 16, 2011 12:17
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I replaced my brake pedal. A bit of a fiddly job but it wasn't hard to just swap going by the seat of my pants. Curiously, I couldn't find the actual procedure in the factory service manual... Now if only my oil pan would get here (two more days!) so I put it in and get back to riding like a newb.
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Sep 17, 2011 04:03
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I ran out of gas and discovered that my K&N filter mostly just makes my gas mileage shittier while making it extremely finicky with the weather changing 20 degrees every few days. I'm going to put the needle clip back to the center and just tape up most of the filter tomorrow. My top end went from over 45MPH to something around 42 before it started gasping, even when upping the jet size from a #70 to a #80. Definitely not worth the trouble.
Rugoberta Munchu fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 06:29
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M4rg4r1ne posted:I ran out of gas and discovered that my K&N filter mostly just makes my gas mileage shittier while making it extremely finicky with the weather changing 20 degrees every few days. I'm going to put the needle clip back to the center and just tape up most of the filter tomorrow. My top end went from over 45MPH to something around 42 before it started gasping, even when upping the jet size from a #70 to a #80. Definitely not worth the trouble. Yeah, they are loving touchy on carb setups. I don't blame you.
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Sep 17, 2011 10:21
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Saga posted:Aprilia, instead of using wellnuts like the rest of the entire world, attached the Tuono's windscreen using single-use toothed press fittings. So having already fitted my new double-bubble screen and sworn sufficiently at the stock fasteners, I replaced them all with M5 button heads and nylock bolts. Black electrical tape seems to be effectively fending off further stone chips. I've since replaced the Tuono's one remaining pillion peg hanger with a spandangly carbon fibre item to go with the Akra's carbon clamp. Unfortunately it's an obviously lovely piece of CF compared to the Akrapovic stuff, thus explaining in part why the Croatians can charge a bazillion dollars for their products. However, as the peg hangers are solid lumps of cast aluminium with pegs attached, the weight saving is something. Also installed the official factory protector for the quickly overheated rear brake master cylinder. This is basically a not very effective looking bit of ally sheet that's been cut and bent over a tube, and creates a barrier between the hot exhaust and the master cylinder. The '05 and later bikes had them as standard. I figure at worst it will keep a bit of salt and dirt off the master cylinder and banjo, but I suspect all it may do for the braking system is slow down the process of cooking the brake fluid if you're stuck in urban traffic. I learned that the zinc plating on the fasteners must be slightly questionable, as the inner bolt for the m/c bracket had partially welded itself on. I'm still waiting for a new Hel brake hose, so will probably replace the fasteners when I fit it and re-bleed the brake. Currently awaiting a carbon dash cover. The Aprilia has a big, vaguely triangular piece of black plastic that sits over the clocks and under the screen. Mine is going very slightly grey with age, so I'm replacing it with shiny bling. In my defense, you do pretty much look at it every time you ride the bike, so it's fairly good bang for the buck in terms of improving the look and feel of the thing.
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Sep 17, 2011 19:14
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This summer ended up being way too hot for me to ride (GA, ATGATT), so after a long few months of neglect and lack of battery conditioning, I grabbed a new one for the Rebel and cranked it up for the fall/winter riding season. No dice. Full choke. Turned over and died. I was able to keep it alive with half throttle or more, so I took it for a spin and still after 5 minutes it would die anywhere south of 1/3 throttle. Ended up rebuilding a carb for the first time today. All of you probably suspected from the start, "this guy has a clogged slow jet," but it was a pretty sweet feeling putting it all back together, hitting the starter with no choke, and hearing the sweet sounds of 234cc of p-twin happiness. It's pissing gas from the fuel inlet but I don't give a gently caress, I'll fix it tomorrow. e: being summer, I had completely forgotten to drain the carbs after i decided to wait out the heat. Summerizing 
Handiklap fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 22:23
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I pulled the Vino's cylinder head to grind down one of the cooling fins in order to install the temperature gauge. While the head was removed, I noticed that the Sea Foam treatment removed a lot of the built-up carbon I saw the last time I had the engine open. I replaced the leaky head gasket too. I also changed the carburetor's jet needle clip position back to stock to improve gas mileage and end the godawful raw gas smell when idling. With the K&N air filter half covered in tape, it runs much better once everything was bolted back together. After riding at 40+MPH, the peak temperature was around 265°F. Not bad at all.
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Sep 18, 2011 03:29
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Replaced the stock license plate holder and rear turn signals on my Speed Triple with a tail tidy and those neat Triumph LED signals. This may be the first non-repair modification I've ever done to a bike myself, and while it's certainly no engine teardown it's the most complex thing I've done to a bike on my own so far. Planning on doing the front signals tomorrow.
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Sep 18, 2011 06:21
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Broke down yesterday in the MC19, lack of power etc. Let it sit for 10 minutes and fired it up, managed to get it the short distance home. Pulled it down, found the fuel filter had sucked itself shut, even tearing the filter element in half  Grabbed a universal 8mm filter and installed it this arvo and gave it a run, feels like a new bike! A pretty good end to a weekend, really..
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Sep 18, 2011 07:39
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Put a new battery in the Tuono. New AGM type battery, fires right up now, no hesitation unlike on the old battery. I thought abut putting a YTX14 in there which is what the aprilia forums guys recommend, but I couldn't see a way to fit that in there without leaving it unsecured so went with the stock YTX12 size. I also figured out how the one button menu navigation thing works. Lap timer is freaking cool. I found the clutch slave cylinder banjo was weeping slightly. Torqued that up a little and it has stopped. I think someone may have reused the copper washers on it so I've made a mental note to replace those when I have to bleed it next. Clutch works great so I don't think she needs it yet. Next step is to get some bits and pieces from the local electronics store and make up a permanent wired connection for the battery tender to keep this battery in good shape when I can't ride or am out of town etc. Need to bleed the front brake on my wife's bike and then go out for an evening ride together.
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Sep 18, 2011 19:57
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Got the front signals done. Some pics:   The kit left big stupid gaps under my tail I need to figure out how to cover up   
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Sep 18, 2011 23:18
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Yesterday I mounted the engine and assembled/mounted the front forks on a friend's Honda CM-250C. He found the bike for $250 a few months ago, and we have completely stripped it apart, repainted/fixed poo poo, and have just started reassembly (now that he's got a title in hand after months of horseshit paperwork). Even though we took it apart, I had forgotten how heavy a simple 250cc aluminum engine can be.
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Sep 19, 2011 01:25
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GanjamonII posted:Put a new battery in the Tuono. New AGM type battery, fires right up now, no hesitation unlike on the old battery. I thought abut putting a YTX14 in there which is what the aprilia forums guys recommend, but I couldn't see a way to fit that in there without leaving it unsecured so went with the stock YTX12 size. IF the clamp's like the one on the older Tuono, you can fit a ytx14 just by making a spacer for the clamp and using a longer bolt. With the taller battery the seat secures it anyway, so the clamp's slightly redundant.
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Sep 19, 2011 07:01
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I rattlecanned my KLR today, it looks p good from afar But I used the wrong kinda tape for masking so it's got a lotta bleeding  Whatever, it's a KLR
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Sep 19, 2011 13:08
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niethan posted:I rattlecanned my KLR today, it looks p good from afar All ready for the 62nd annual "Tour of the River Kwai"! It's not what it was in my day of course. These days you can't find a decent British POW to strap to your luggage rack and have to make do with the starving families of Karen rebels. e: you should continue the blood-red rays of Amaterasu on the tail/fender etc...
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Sep 19, 2011 13:58
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| # ? May 22, 2024 11:44 |
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niethan posted:I rattlecanned my KLR today, it looks p good from afar Looking nice, and if you are bored some cotton swabs and cleaning alcohol will remove the bleeding. Or white Edding if you are not quite that bored.
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Sep 19, 2011 15:07
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