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chrisgt posted:Have you changed injectors? Because that will mess with the reading on the screen. (That isn't really typical, I get about 25 on the highway.)
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 19:06 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 16:00 |
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, holy hell. Even if I beat on my '11 WRX I can't get it to go much below 18mpg for a tank in hilly PA. Yeah that doesn't look right at all
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 19:31 |
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah that doesn't look right at all In my 06 OBXT I normally get ~21mpg but if I am driving hard I have seen it down to 16mpg.
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 20:00 |
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Bojanglesworth posted:In my 06 OBXT I normally get ~21mpg but if I am driving hard I have seen it down to 16mpg. ... 16 I can understand even when driving amazingly aggressive, but 11mpg?
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 20:10 |
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CrazyLittle posted:Yeah that doesn't look right at all CrazyLittle posted:... 16 I can understand even when driving amazingly aggressive, but 11mpg? If you're really pushing hard, 11 is possible over 100mi of alphabet roads. Hell single digits is possible on a track. That motor wasn't broken then. It later was but had nothing to do with having too much fuel. nm fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Sep 15, 2011 |
# ? Sep 15, 2011 20:46 |
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I did a catted downpipe, Invidia Q300 turbo-back exhaust, and Stage 2 ECU tune, and oh my christ. Now I just need to figure out how to drive the speed limit. Anyone got a good stealth radar detector to refer me to?
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 21:15 |
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I am selling an Invidia SS Catted Downpipe in the A.I. Marketplace if anyone is interested. 2008+ WRX/STI
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# ? Sep 15, 2011 23:03 |
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BoostCreep posted:I am selling an Invidia SS Catted Downpipe in the A.I. Marketplace if anyone is interested. 2008+ WRX/STI gently caress, I wish it was compatible with auto trans.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 01:40 |
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Bojanglesworth posted:gently caress, I wish it was compatible with auto trans. shouldn't make a difference
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 02:07 |
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jamal posted:shouldn't make a difference It must because Invidia sells Auto and Manual as separate parts (and part numbers.)
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 02:21 |
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jamal posted:shouldn't make a difference
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 02:25 |
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nm posted:He has a legacy GT Ah yes, should have specified. I actually have an Outback XT but its the same platform.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 02:50 |
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Red Queen leaves the road next week and visits mechanic for the start of it's track career. Also looking at a set of D2 race brakes - they are getting a good report locally, anyone else hear anything good or bad? Would prefer Alcons or Willwood but.... fuccccccck the cost!
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 10:32 |
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absolute loving garbage- stick with a reputable brand. I wouldn't get wilwoods either. Anyone carry Stoptech down there?
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 11:22 |
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jamal posted:I wouldn't get wilwoods either. Sorry, back up a moment there, because that's got one of the best reputations of all and I've been in cars with Willwoods that are extremely impressive. What on earth is wrong with them?
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 12:16 |
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AFewBricksShy posted:Someone clipped my bumper and driver's side headlight. The bumper is fine, I can buff out the damage, but the headlight lens and the housing needs to be replaced (some of the reflective pieces on the housing are broken as well. Currently I'm doing well with my packing tape lens, but I need to replace it. Bumping one last time because I'd like to get this done next weekend. I'd appreciate any info anyone can give me.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 14:26 |
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AFewBricksShy posted:Bumping one last time because I'd like to get this done next weekend. I'd appreciate any info anyone can give me. No '08s in the junkyard? Buddy got his spoilerless trunk for his LGT at the junkyard. Same exact color for the price he would have paid to get one painted.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 14:27 |
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I'm thinking about rebuilding a spare 25D block I have. I've searched the net and found tons of conflicting information on what parts to use for the rebuild. Is there a goon approved rebuild kit I can buy somewhere with all the bearings, rings, etc?
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 14:56 |
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blindjoe posted:What is the recommended boost gauge and gauge pod? I have been looking at the ebay spt omori gauge, the opinion is that the light is too bright and it doesn't dim. I also don't know about just hanging the pod off the column cover. I'm going to do the MB corner pod and Prosport boost gauge. If you want to do a clock replacement, this one is the cleanest looking.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 15:53 |
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Perfect, those look great. I won an autometer boost and narrow band A/f gauge for $30 on ebay, so I will probably get that clock one, and get a clock gauge to put in there as well. When the clock was broken I was going crazy because its the gauge I look at the most.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 17:15 |
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c355n4 posted:No '08s in the junkyard? Buddy got his spoilerless trunk for his LGT at the junkyard. Same exact color for the price he would have paid to get one painted. I wish junkyards around me had late model cars. In CA they all get sold off to shops that strip them of their parts and sell them for premium prices. Every junkyard in at least the Los Angeles area have cars from maybe the early 2000's at the latest. Most are 80's and 90's poo poo boxes that have already been stripped.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 19:54 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Sorry, back up a moment there, because that's got one of the best reputations of all and I've been in cars with Willwoods that are extremely impressive. What on earth is wrong with them? compared to stoptech/brembo/ap/alcon, the calipers are very flexible, the hardware is cheap, and they don't make a kit big enough for heavy track use on a moderately powerful Subaru. I consider them adequate for a light, low powered car though.
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 21:47 |
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jamal posted:compared to stoptech/brembo/ap/alcon, the calipers are very flexible, the hardware is cheap, and they don't make a kit big enough for heavy track use on a moderately powerful Subaru. I consider them adequate for a light, low powered car though. .... Are you getting a cheap Chinese knockoff, because that aint the Willwoods we know and love down here
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# ? Sep 16, 2011 22:42 |
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Wilwood is based here in southern california. I've handled, installed, driven on them, and heard feedback from racers. Great for a Miata, but a 3200lb Subaru not so much. I'm really not that impressed with the stuff and it's all kind of cheap. Take the rotor for example. No float at all, just bolted together with standard grade 5 hardware when most others use some sort of a belleville washer or floating drive pins. They don't stagger piston bore sizes so the pads are going to wear unevenly, and some brake engineer friends say they are very flexible compared to a lot of other calipers. Around here it's something people put on their hot rods and mustangs because it's a cheap shiny red caliper.
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 04:31 |
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Ten year Subaru driver, first time AI poster. I've got an '05 Legacy I love, but some idiot backed into my parked car overnight and managed to break the passenger headlight assembly. It won't pass inspection this way, so I'm trying to figure the best way to get it fixed. I called junkyards in the DC/NoVA area but none of them seem to have one. I've seen prices anywhere between $150 and $380 for them online, so I'm hesitant to just order one sight unseen from somewhere I've never dealt with before. Basically, is it worth trying to get it cheap and do it myself, or should I just let insurance handle it at this point? I'm more "Games" then "AI" so my car repair knowledge is weak. If you could help a stressed Subaru bro out, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 04:50 |
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jamal posted:
I find this hard to believe because around here they are used to win stage rally (tarmac and gravel), historic events, modern circuit, Bathurst and the last person to genuinely win a braking duel with me. VERY surprising comments from you to say the least, given the track record for Wilwoods have been very good.
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 11:06 |
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Goddamnit! Was going to change rotors/pads on the outback wagon and one of the caliper bolts snapped/sheared right at the head. I didn't even turn the drat socket. It literally fell off in my hand. So no rotor changes. I did change all the pads. Part #901130011 - gently caress you!
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 18:14 |
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Kaysette posted:Ten year Subaru driver, first time AI poster. I've got an '05 Legacy I love, but some idiot backed into my parked car overnight and managed to break the passenger headlight assembly. It won't pass inspection this way, so I'm trying to figure the best way to get it fixed. I called junkyards in the DC/NoVA area but none of them seem to have one. I've seen prices anywhere between $150 and $380 for them online, so I'm hesitant to just order one sight unseen from somewhere I've never dealt with before. I would imagine it's fairly easy to change the assembly. Easy enough that it isn't worth the insurance rate hike from the claim.
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 18:52 |
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Well after yanking the driver's rear wheel off my 2002, I think I can be confident that the scrape i'm occasionally hearing is not a wheel bearing. From what I can tell, the dust shield back there is on its last legs. It has completely rusted through in a few spots and is flaking away in others. I can easily see flakes making contact with the rotor and making a nice scraping sound. The bitch of it all is those backing plates are like $100 a piece and it looks like I would have to disassemble the whole parking brake assembly to get them off. I guess I'll have to add that to the list of "things I want to do but is too much of a pain to do right now."
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 19:34 |
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bull3964 posted:Well after yanking the driver's rear wheel off my 2002, I think I can be confident that the scrape i'm occasionally hearing is not a wheel bearing. The dust shields spot welded to the knuckle? Yeah... I cut those off with a grinder.
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# ? Sep 17, 2011 19:52 |
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Yeah I think most people just knock em off. That's what I did on my 2.5rs a few years ago with no ill effect that I can tell.
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# ? Sep 18, 2011 20:54 |
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took mine off to fit h6 brakes. if you want to change the backing plate you have to press out the hub which usually means new bearings. And if you're going through all that trouble you might as well put on 4/2 pots or brembos.
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# ? Sep 18, 2011 20:59 |
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Eh, I see. Well, I guess I'll cut off the cancerous parts when I get around to it and hit the rest with POR 15 to keep it from getting any worse. I'm just happy that it wasn't the beginnings of another wheel bearing dying on me. I've been avoiding driving the car on the highway since the issue started and now I can go back to using it normally.
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# ? Sep 18, 2011 21:44 |
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Had Hella Supertones installed today with the Subimods bracket. Not the greatest piece of kit if I'm honest. No hardware and no instructions. Thanks guys. The horns look great though, I am slowly joining the Subaru hivemind. If anyone in the Boston area needs a fantastic (and dirt cheap) Subaru mech send me a PM. Second time I've used him and I can't recommend him enough.
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 02:57 |
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kylej posted:Had Hella Supertones installed today with the Subimods bracket. Not the greatest piece of kit if I'm honest. No hardware and no instructions. Thanks guys. The horns look great though, I am slowly joining the Subaru hivemind. Also, since you are in Boston I thought I would shout out my good friends https://www.bostonmotorsports.com They don't have a website but what they do have is seriously the lowest prices on everything. Hit them up.
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 03:33 |
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Bojanglesworth posted:Also, since you are in Boston I thought I would shout out my good friends https://www.bostonmotorsports.com Are they Subies or everything?
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 03:53 |
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Bojanglesworth posted:Also, since you are in Boston I thought I would shout out my good friends https://www.bostonmotorsports.com Yeah I see them at NASIOC quite a bit. The mech I use goes by Motive over at NewEnglandSubarus.com Reason I'm being cagey is he prefers only posting at NES and doesn't really want his name all over. Seriously great guy though, anyone in the area should give him a shot. One redeeming part about living in this cold rear end part of the country is having plenty of Subaru people.
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 04:47 |
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I posted a handful of pages back about my 06 WRX. I'm getting ready to sell it now. For the past couple years it has intermittently made a creaking sound when I turn the steering wheel quickly; sort of a "mrrr" noise. It goes away and comes back every couple weeks but doesn't seem related to time of day or if the car is warm or not. Never at speeds above 15 or 20 mph but I suspect that's because I don't crank the steering wheel at those speeds. I posted on NASIOC and some folks there suggested I check the top hats. After turning the wheel while in neutral and parked, it still made the noise. It seems to me that if it were the suspension, it wouldn't make noise if it were parked since it isn't loading/unloading. I checked the steering fluid and there seemed to be plenty though the last time I had my oil changed the mechanic said the power steering fluid was a little dark. The noise also seems to be coming from directly behind the instrument panel and the steering never feels weak or anything other than normal. Does anyone have ideas on what it could be? Or how I could get rid of it before I trade the car in in a couple weeks?
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 05:42 |
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Went to pick up a new motorcycle with my WRX wagon today, 400 miles there and back towing a 4x9 U-Haul motorcycle trailer. It towed it beautifully and I could barely tell it was there -well, except for the 17mpg I got the whole way.
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 05:42 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 16:00 |
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SteveMcQueen posted:I posted a handful of pages back about my 06 WRX. I'm getting ready to sell it now.
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# ? Sep 19, 2011 06:21 |