|
I tried posting this in the student loan thread, but this might be a border question than fits better here. I have 3 private loans from Sallie Mae with wildly varying interest rates 1-01 $12,935.50 at 4.25% for $101.41/month 1-02 $4,426.45 at 9% ! for $46.15/month 1-03 $11,490.27 at 7.25% for $222.83/month In addition I have a federal loan in income contingent repayment $16,101.49 at 6.550% for $80.23/month It all adds up to about $450 a month. I am wondering if consolidation would be a good option in my scenario. My credit score looks like it is being hurt by having 6 accounts open (these 4 loans + 2 cards with balances payed in full every month), and consolidating the three private loans into one would bring that down to 4 open accounts. Firstly, because my average account age is only 1 Years, 11 Months and the private loans are some of my oldest accounts (2 are from 2009, one from 2008), would these accounts "close" from consolidation, thus drastically lowering my average account age and hurt my credit score more than the reduced number of accounts help it? And more generally, is loan consolidation a decent idea for someone who is just barely squeaking by paycheck to paycheck paying the $450 a month, considering I've only payed for about a year and have over $44,000 in principle left? If so, who is doing reasonable consolidations these days? Sallie Mae seems to have stopped, as did my go-to bank Chase. Is Wells Fargo really the ONLY game in town for private loan consolidation?
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 03:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:44 |
|
|
Zikan posted:Recently my bank has decided to charge me $4 per transaction with my debit card on my account unless I upgrade to the account with a $12 monthly charge. Having gone to them because Bank of America (may they rot in hell soon) was going to do something similar, I am in the market for a bank that has the least amount of bullshit fees and such. So I'm now considering internet banking except I don't know how to distinguish between Legit Bank Corp and Uncle's Joes Backyard Bank Bonanza! due to staying with only brick and mortar places all of my life Local credit unions are usually a good bet for minimizing alot of BS'ish fees. If you are with a larger brick and mortar bank, those account maintenance fees are usually waived if you maintain a minimum balance of a few thousand in the account. Not sure if that is an option for you, but its not like you would lose a lot on interest with rates being what they are by keeping a balance in your checking account. If you do decide to go on-line you would not really be "at risk" of losing anything if you were to go with Uncle Joe's Backyard Bonanza as long as they are FDIC insured. (Which basically all banks are.) What you do need to watch out for going on-line is withdawal fees, particularly ATM fees. Your bank will not have any of its own ATM's so you want to make sure they have some sort of monthly ATM fee reimbursement program; otherwise at up to $3 per pop they can add up very fast. Personally, I would highly recommend USAA to anyone who is eligible as an awesome on-line financial institution. (They do more than just banking.) However, to be eligible to join, you or a parent or grandparent has to have served in the US Armed Forces. (They have relaxed this a lot recently, but I'm pretty sure it is still a requirement.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 03:40
|
|
|
LegendaryFrog posted:I tried posting this in the student loan thread, but this might be a border question than fits better here. Do you have any extra income? Sounds like your credit problem stems from a thin history. This isn't going to be cured by getting a consolidation loan (You likely won't be able to get one better than 6.3% for $45k with your history) given the fact that there is no easily secured collateral (while Student loans aren't dischargable in bankruptcy, if you flee the country or die, they are left holding the bag). Your best method of attack would be to find a way to get rid of that $4,426 @9% and start rolling that money in a debt snowball fashion. The good news is that you have a very snowball friendly structure. If you use this years tax return and a few months of living frugily, you should be able to knock out the first one and it's all downhill from there. I assure you, having 4 open student loans is not a long term problem with your credit score/report. It certainly won't be fixed by getting a consolidation loan.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 14:11
|
|
|
Edit: doublepost
maskenfreiheit fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 13, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 14:21
|
|
|
Quick random question: I'm about to move from New York to California, but will still be working with my New York based company and telecommuting. They do not have any facilities in the sate of California and my paychecks will be coming from New York. Now, two days before I'm about to leave, they drop a California DE 4 tax form on my desk and tell me to fill it out before I go. The form is asking me to accurately estimate my itemized deductions, adjustments to income, and non-wage income that I anticipate for the year 2011, which alone seems difficult enough (maybe I'm misunderstanding?), but also asks me to refer to an FTB 540 and other forms that I assume are specific to California and do not have. First I'm wondering if anyone from California can clue me in on what the hell I'm supposed to do with this thing, second I'm wondering if it's even necessary in the first place? I've contacted my HR department about it, but I haven't heard back from them yet and sort of suspect that they have no idea what the gently caress they are doing. Edit: It's also asking for a California Employer Account Number, which is why I'm wondering if it's even necessary since my employer is obviously not in California... BigAlienHoopajoo fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Sep 21, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 21:18
|
|
|
You will be a resident of CA for tax purposes. It doesn’t matter where you have your drivers license or where your company is headquartered, but where you actually do your work. Next year you will file a federal return (it is still all the United States after all) and a part year NY return and a part year CA return. But I would try asking this question in the tax thread for help with the CA specific forms and terminology. Furu, the top contributor, is based in CA and will probably help you if you ask nicely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 21:47
|
|
|
Here is the link for the tax thread: proclick. Just to make it easier. They will help.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 21:58
|
|
|
Thanks, I did mean to do that. I copied, yet failed to paste for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 22:04
|
|
|
Thanks guys, will do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 00:38
|
|
|
Guinness posted:This, plus rewards points, is why I do 95% of my spending on my credit card and pay it off every month. Credit cards offer 1-2% cashback depending on how often you sign up for bonuses and how carefully you match purchases to different cards. Credit cards also offer much better fraud protection as Chin Strap said. Just in the past two years I've had one totally fraudulent charge that was for $500 removed and another time I bought a piece of furniture and the shop disappeared (overnight, boilerroom style) and I got the money back from that purchase as well. Credit cards also often have some additional tertiary benefits such as extended warranty on electronics, price protection in case price drops on something right after you buy it, and insurance on rental cars. All of these can add up to some big benefits and there is really no reason not to use one unless you can't obtain one or have such poor impulse control you'll run it up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 17:24
|
|
|
Quick question: I just upped my limit and got another card at BoA (I know they are evil yes). Since its within a month, is now a good time to look into a credit card via elsewhere, thinking being it won't hurt my credit as much to look? Does it just look like I am shopping around if within 1 month ish? And I'm not looking to max out or anything, just maybe get a better rewards card, and help get me through some moving finances. Edit: The Credit card rewards thread answered the question, apparently keeping under 10 a year is advisable. Duckman2008 fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 21:07
|
|
|
Has anyone used PenFed for auto loans before? I applied for a $15k used car loan over 36 mo. because of their 1.99% APR a few days ago and was turned down today. I have a salary of $53k (resident), autopay student loans under IBR (100% on-time) with a balance of $102k, never missed CC payment (CL = $20k) in 8 years (Equifax was 762, thanks for the hard pull), and utilization of ~4%. I also applied with a co-signer (parent) with no debt obligations and monthly gross of $39k. I guess I'll call them tomorrow and ask why I was turned down, but I find this fairly perplexing. My entire reasoning for opening and paying off an auto-loan in 3 years was to establish a stronger relationship for a mortgage, etc. come marriage time. Now that I read more reviews about them, it seems they might be too much of a hassle to even deal with down the road. (I already have their Rewards Visa too.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 05:03
|
|
|
beatblitz posted:Has anyone used PenFed for auto loans before? I applied for a $15k used car loan over 36 mo. because of their 1.99% APR a few days ago and was turned down today. I know half of BFC gets a boner whenever PenFed comes up in discussion, but only they could tell you why you were declined. Keep in mind that every financial institution has different criteria and as an online thing with a rate shaved down as far as humanly possible, they might be turning down a majority of the people who apply. I would not take it personally. My guess is that the amount of student loans you have spooked them, and you would have no trouble getting a loan on favorable terms, but not 1.99% elsewhere.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 05:43
|
|
|
For those newbies who need a clear inroad into budgeting, I wanted to recommend as a very much financial beginner's book: All Your Worth by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Tyagi. I just got around to reading it and it's a great newb-friendly look at personal finance. It's geared more towards the zaurgs and tuyops rather than the 80ks of BFC, for sure, and if you're looking for asset allocation you'll have to look elsewhere, but it's a very honest take on big-picture budgeting for people who are financially sloppy, behind on their savings, or just plain worried about money. The major backbone of the budget guidelines is a 50%/30%/20% ratio for "Must Haves", "Wants", and "Savings". There are some very interesting chapters that relate to money discussions in relationships, myopic penny-pinching, dealing with aggressive debt collectors, a chapter on home ownership that included the sentence: "Russell ran into the backyard, just in time to see the earth open up and their septic tank explode, as a smelly, dark-colored ooze rolled across the lawn." Basically, everything I've ever hoped for in a personal finance book. One of the last chapters is an outline for a financial CPR plan that readers should create for themselves, so that when poo poo happens they know how to react quickly rather than put it off and find themselves in a hole later on. I think it's a great book for anyone who feels themselves a bit on unstable ground when it comes to finances, and the tone is so positive that it is easy to share with friends and family who might need the help.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 06:16
|
|
|
moana posted:For those newbies who need a clear inroad into budgeting, I wanted to recommend as a very much financial beginner's book: All Your Worth by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Tyagi. I just got around to reading it and it's a great newb-friendly look at personal finance. It's geared more towards the zaurgs and tuyops rather than the 80ks of BFC, for sure, and if you're looking for asset allocation you'll have to look elsewhere, but it's a very honest take on big-picture budgeting for people who are financially sloppy, behind on their savings, or just plain worried about money. Also, $.75 on Half.com http://product.half.ebay.com/All-Yo...cpid=1246859726
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 06:31
|
|
|
Dragyn posted:Also, $.75 on Half.com I just impulse purchased a book on budgeting. Whelp guess that proves I needed it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 20:02
|
|
|
This isn't strictly relevant in that it is not a newbie personal finance question but I couldn't think of anywhere else to post this and I know the admins read this thread fairly regularly... What are people's thoughts on starting a volunteering thread? I think volunteering is great for a multitude of reasons and can actually benefit your career. I actually got my first "real" job through people I met while volunteering. I volunteer at a DV shelter and also just applied to volunteer at Philabundance (Philadelphia food bank) through Feeding America (https://www.feedingamerica.org) which is obviously about ending hunger in America. I believe September is Hunger Action Month and yes, I saw the Matt Damon commercial and went to the website. I couldn't really think of anywhere else to post this and wanted to get some feedback.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 05:44
|
|
|
I think it's a great idea, go for it!
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 12:50
|
|
|
drat I was kind of hoping you guys would say no... Well this will require some effort, I'll spend the time to create a quality OP tomorrow. I'm sure it won't be nearly 100% inclusive but it will be a start anyway!
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2011 01:50
|
|
|
Lyon posted:This isn't strictly relevant in that it is not a newbie personal finance question but I couldn't think of anywhere else to post this and I know the admins read this thread fairly regularly... I volunteer once a week as per my probation officer. I thought it was going to suck. It's not bad and I've met some good people while doing it.It also makes me feel good to give back after being a gently caress up and just taking for so long.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2011 03:35
|
|
|
thefifthrobot posted:I volunteer once a week as per my probation officer. I thought it was going to suck. It's not bad and I've met some good people while doing it.It also makes me feel good to give back after being a gently caress up and just taking for so long. It gets even better when you don't have the feeling in the back of your head that the only reason you're there is because of the law. edit: re-read my message, it's meant to be taken as encouraging, not demeaning!
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2011 03:46
|
|
|
TraderStav posted:It gets even better when you don't have the feeling in the back of your head that the only reason you're there is because of the law. I will most likely continue to help out. It's not bad, the worst part about it are the other CRs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2011 03:59
|
|
|
I'm working on the thread now, I'm not so involved that I know a lot of good online resources so it might need to be a work in progress. I'm primarily plagiarizing Wikipedia right now... For the thread title: Volunteering: the time without the crime. Community Service on the other hand... or Volunteering and Community Service: it isn't just for celebrity convicts?
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2011 18:11
|
|
|
BFC newbie here considering selling my car to save me ~$85/month on not having to pay the insurance, and I’m looking for some advice as to whether that’s crazy or smart. For starters, it’s a 2009 Civic coupe LX, with ~20,000 miles and 5 years/50,000 miles left on a service warranty. It was basically bought for me by my mother (if I could go back in time, I would have bought a beater in my price range, but she was adamant about me having a new car for reliability and I was easily swayed), so anything I get from selling it will go to her, and when I am able, I will pay her the difference between the purchase cost and what I get for it. More of a long-term loan than a gift, and I am drat lucky for it. At the time of purchase, I was living in a different city where a car was not terribly optional and my poor old Neon had bit the dust. I have since moved somewhere with fantastic public transportation. It currently is parked on the street near my boyfriend’s house, as I live downtown and it would be $150/month to park here. My question is basically whether it would be smart to sell the reliable (as far as I know) car which I know the history of and has low mileage and a service contract for a while yet, knowing that in an unknown amount of time I’m likely to need a car again, and would buy a used something-or-other for a couple thousand bucks which might need repairs? If it makes a difference, I’m coming at this from the perspective of a car-stupid female, which tends to put me at a huge disadvantage in any vehicle transaction. On the other hand, I’m also not desperate to sell it, so I’d be able to be more firm on a price. I pay insurance twice a year, and it breaks down to $96.09/month, including renter’s insurance. I can shop around for renter’s insurance, which I recall at one time paying $11/month for, though that was possibly crappy. I say ~$85 savings above because I can split whatever renter's insurance I go for with my roommate. There are a couple things for which it’s nice to have a car, like bulky grocery shopping and out-of-town weekend trips, but the only thing I really need non-bus transportation for are vet appointments/potential emergencies for my two cats, but theoretically those should be once a year and taking a cab would still save me money (I have double-checked that my local cabs are cool with transporting cats in carriers). I’ve had a rough financial year and depleted my modest savings with a combination mainly of medical expenses and an unexpectedly expensive vacation that I had committed to just before the medical expenses came up. At the moment, a large unexpected expense could put me into credit card debt, and that worries me. I’d like to build it back up. The last few months, I’ve brought in about $70 that can go to savings (more this month because it’s a 3-paycheck month, but most of that will go to a car insurance payment next month). I make ~$1,700/month and my budget is for ~$1,500, but I have a tendency to go over on things like dining and clothes, which is something I am trying to focus on. Full budget available upon request, but this is already longer than I intended. For the record, I currently don’t have any debt, put all my purchases on a Citi card with 1% cash back for easy purchase tracking, which I pay off fully every month, and have 14K in a roth IRA, plus maybe 4K in a 401A through my work, which I know less about than I should. I am 26, for reference. Any input would be appreciated! Edit: I was on the fence about putting this in the "Car Buying" megathread, but went here for newbie leniency in case I hosed up a rule of some kind. If it should be there, let me know and I'll boot myself over there. Mighty Amoeba fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Sep 29, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 04:16
|
|
|
Mighty Amoeba posted:BFC newbie here considering selling my car to save me ~$85/month on not having to pay the insurance, and I’m looking for some advice as to whether that’s crazy or smart. Knowing where you live would help with this. It sounds like you're a great candidate for no car + zipcar membership (I can send you a referral link =P). I live downtown in Washington, DC, and rather than pay for parking + gas + insurance I pay $25 a year to have a car whenever I need one. Even if I use a car for 5 hours a month, that adds up $625/yr. On the other hand, you own the car outright. Even keeping it until the end of the service contract might not be a bad deal. My impression is, without any hard numbers, that you are getting screwed on what you pay for a car you aren't driving. I would shop around for auto-insurance and see if anyone will give you a huge discount based you only driving the car like 10 miles per month.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 05:12
|
|
|
kaishek posted:Knowing where you live would help with this. It sounds like you're a great candidate for no car + zipcar membership (I can send you a referral link =P). I live downtown in Washington, DC, and rather than pay for parking + gas + insurance I pay $25 a year to have a car whenever I need one. Even if I use a car for 5 hours a month, that adds up $625/yr. Portland, OR! I really hate to admit this, but it didn't occur to me to look into insurance shopping. I'm with State Farm right now and have some kind of loyalty discount from being on my parent's insurance before being on my own, but I may be able to do better. Is there a thread or a good reference for what to get in car insurance? I'm a bit concerned I'm underinsured right now, but have decided not to do anything about that currently since I don't drive. I hate how clueless I am about something so important and I'd like to have some idea of what I'm doing so as not to accidentally gently caress myself over. Also, it looks like Zipcar is $60 annually here, but that's still a great deal I'd probably go for if I decide to sell my own. I'd seen it around but for some reason thought it was way more expensive. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 05:33
|
|
|
I feel like this could be pointless, have spoken to a few people about it and I would like some more opinions. I wish to travel next year and I currently have $6000AUD sitting in a savings account with the goal to travel in about 6 months. Putting in roughly $2000 a month I think I worked out I would make about $274 in interest in the time frame I am aiming for. Unfortunately I seem to be caught up thinking that the AUD is about to take a hit again cause of the problems in the EU and the possibility of less market/business for our resources with China. I keep looking back at 2008 and seeing the aussie lose 30 cents because everyone seems to think its a risky currency. Right now its dropped from all times highes about 9 cents and its sitting just bellow parity on 98 cents or so. I really want to try and secure some of my money for when I go overseas and maybe transferring some money in to USD will help. Well it will help only if the aussie drops again. On the conversion I end up losing about $250 at the rate it is right now. Of course putting it in to a USD account means I get USD interests rates which means the bank will give me effectively nothing so it will be dead money for 6 months. I don't really care about making money off this I just want to protect my self so that I can travel for as long as I want. I just keep remembering early 2009 when I went travelling and everything was more expensive compared to early 2008 when I was in the same place. Writing this out seems dumb. What's your opinion, just leave it in my savings acount and dont worry about it? I guess worst case scenario I just keep working for a little bit longer while the aussie comes back up again because at least it does seem to do that historically.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 12:36
|
|
|
Mighty Amoeba posted:Portland, OR! Go with progressive, get their snapshot discount. Since you hardly drive, it'll save you a ton. When I did it with my car, it cut my bill by 40%, and since you drive even less than I do, you should be able to save more. But explain more the thing with your mom. She loaned the car to you, not gave, right? And eventually you'll have to pay her back the money she spent?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 16:28
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:Go with progressive, get their snapshot discount. Since you hardly drive, it'll save you a ton. When I did it with my car, it cut my bill by 40%, and since you drive even less than I do, you should be able to save more. I'll check out Progressive! Actually, I have a friend who used to work for them so I might talk to her about any inside information I should know before I switch. I talked to State Farm today, and discovered I was actually not on their lowest-mileage tier (though I called last year and they said I was, which is weird) and it will now work out to $80.42/month instead of $96.09, so that's something! I also feel a lot less clueless about insurance now. I'm pretty embarrassed about the loan situation, especially posting in this forum, due to me coming across as a totally spoiled kid. My mom generously offered me a loan for whatever car I was getting and strongly encouraged me to get a new one (because she is a worrier and didn't want me getting stranded). When I pointed out there was absolutely no way I could pay her back anytime soon, she said that was fine, and I'd pay her back when the trust fund I ended up with in my parent's divorce came due. Which is when my dad dies, so hopefully not for a long time. If I get a higher paying job I'll pay her back sooner. There was a time when I didn't feel bad about taking advantage of my rich parents' generosity, but that time is not now. Please don't judge me harshly! I am completely financially independent now aside from this, and have currently paid her back $2,000.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 02:07
|
|
|
Mighty Amoeba posted:I'll check out Progressive! Actually, I have a friend who used to work for them so I might talk to her about any inside information I should know before I switch. I talked to State Farm today, and discovered I was actually not on their lowest-mileage tier (though I called last year and they said I was, which is weird) and it will now work out to $80.42/month instead of $96.09, so that's something! I also feel a lot less clueless about insurance now. A parental loan that puts neither party in any sort of financial hardship is no big deal. If you had put your mom on ramen noodles to buy a new car, yeah, worry. This - no. Anyways, comparison shop. If you are seriously driving as little as you say you are (a couple times a month for errands) than I would keep the comparison shop even further. Given that car situation I would say to hold on to it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 05:06
|
|
|
I currently carry all my investments at Fidelity. I have an ING savings account and checking account elsewhere, but investment wise, I'm at Fidelity. This includes a Roth IRA that is in one of their target funds, and an investment account with an index fund and some other funds. Now my question is whether this is safe or not. Now I understand I'm buying funds and it's not technically sitting in some Fidelity bank account somewhere, but should I be splitting up my investments between Fidelity and Vanguard? Is there even a remote chance that my money could go away if Fidelity had some kind of massive financial problems? I had planned to move my IRA to Vanguard because of the fees, but wondering if I should leave the other stuff at Fidelity so that I do have a split. Or am I just being paranoid?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 12:11
|
|
|
Mighty Amoeba posted:I'll check out Progressive! Actually, I have a friend who used to work for them so I might talk to her about any inside information I should know before I switch. I talked to State Farm today, and discovered I was actually not on their lowest-mileage tier (though I called last year and they said I was, which is weird) and it will now work out to $80.42/month instead of $96.09, so that's something! I also feel a lot less clueless about insurance now. I’m going to disagree with kaishek (I usually do). Loans between friends and family members are never a good idea. It’s less bad when offers to give a loan than when one begs someone else for a loan, but more often than not they don’t work out, and even when they do, it adds drama and tension, even when both parties do as they should. When this loan is paid back in full, it will be a relief for both of you. If your mom is doing well financially, and it’s very important for her that you drive a brand new car and she wants to give you a car, than that is very gracious and generous of her. But it puts you in a really weird spot when you barely need a car, and you are happy with an older one that still meets your needs, and your mother overrules your judgment and insists that you take out a loan from her to buy more car than you want because she worries a lot, to me that seems like meddling. That feels like a guilt trip. I think your mother means well, and if you are OK with everything, than I am too. But if you have doubts or any misgivings about it, it would be healthy for both of you if you lovingly explained what you are going to do and why, and that you value her opinions and will still ask for her advice, but ultimately you will make your own decisions from now on.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 15:14
|
|
|
I'm a Bank of America customer who's pretty fed up with Bank of America and looking to switch to a credit union. What's a good way to find one, what kind of features should I be looking for and what kind of issues should I look out for? I've found the Consumers Union "move your money" advice (warning: that's a PDF), which looks immensely helpful in making the process painless, but I can't find anything similar for choosing and locating a good credit union, and I didn't see a credit union kind of thread in here. disaster pastor fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Sep 30, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 15:43
|
|
|
tzirean posted:I'm a Bank of America customer who's pretty fed up with Bank of America and looking to switch to a credit union. What's a good way to find one, what kind of features should I be looking for and what kind of issues should I look out for? The PDF you posted has a good procedure to follow. I would add that another reason to keep both accounts open is that you need to pay for expected (and unexpected) stuff before your new checks and debit card come in the mail. This summer I moved, put down a deposit on a new apartment, started a new job, and changed banks pretty much simultaneously, and it was tricky having an old account I could take money out of but not put money into (bank without local branches), and a new account I could put money into but not take out before my checks and debit card came in the mail. I don't have a credit card, having just graduated college, but that would have made it easier. In terms of features, it's nice to have the credit union be a part of the CO-OP ATM network (no-fee ATM availability around the country), and be part of the CU Service Centers (you can walk into other credit unions and bank there if you need to). I think my credit union's website is better than some major banks', but a podunk CU might have a crappy one that won't integrate with Mint or whatever. When I moved, I just googled "credit union <city>", and looked for reviews. I found a few on Yelp, and elsewhere. I chose the one that was on campus (I'm a graduate student) and was otherwise more convenient for me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 16:50
|
|
|
tzirean posted:I'm a Bank of America customer who's pretty fed up with Bank of America and looking to switch to a credit union. What's a good way to find one, what kind of features should I be looking for and what kind of issues should I look out for? Thanks for this. Bank of America's going to start charging a fee for debit card usage so it's finally the kick in the pants I needed to cut ties and move to a credit union.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 16:52
|
|
|
Zeta Taskforce posted:I’m going to disagree with kaishek (I usually do). Loans between friends and family members are never a good idea. It’s less bad when offers to give a loan than when one begs someone else for a loan, but more often than not they don’t work out, and even when they do, it adds drama and tension, even when both parties do as they should. I kind of disagree with this, especially in this case. This sounds less like a loan and more like "I want to buy you a car but I don't want to come out and say it so you should 'pay me back' sometime". My family does intra-family loans all of the time, particularly with house purchases (my grandma sells her house to my cousin directly, my grandfather purchasing my parents' first house and acting as their bank, my aunt and uncle selling their house to one of their children), and it's never been a problem or a source of tension. Edit: It helps that in most cases the loan amounts are small because the % down payment is so high. It definitely has more potential pitfalls and requires a very close family with a lot of trust, but if you're in that situation I don't see why someone shouldn't do it. And it sounds like she has that type of relationship with her parents, so eh.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 17:08
|
|
|
Sophia posted:I kind of disagree with this, especially in this case. This sounds less like a loan and more like "I want to buy you a car but I don't want to come out and say it so you should 'pay me back' sometime". Yeah, this was the impression I got as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 17:28
|
|
|
Mighty Amoeba posted:Should I sell my car? Your car is worth about $12k. Purchased new, it was likely 18k depending on options. Throw in tax, title, tags and all that jazz and it was likely close to a $20k purchase. I would say an $8k gap for a $80 insurance payment is a poor idea. Your mom, and by proxy, you just took the brunt of the worst investment someone can make... the depreciation on a new car the second you drive it off the lot. You've already paid 99% of the cost, why save the 1% if you think you'll need it at some point in the next few years. That said, you are likely being pretty lazy with your insurance. My advice would be to look into either the Snapshot discount with Progressive (they put a tattle tale chip in your car and you save money) or to look at something with a much higher deductible (especially on collision) and low mileage limit. My girlfriend is 26, and she pays about $250 per 6 months on her car. Bundling can make your life easier but it often costs signifcantly more, even with the 'discount.' Each company prices their products differently. I have state farm renters, but their life insurance rates are 2-3x times what I ended up paying. Same with auto. Also, and you know your mother more than I do, but I get the same feeling that others in here got and that she wanted you to have that new car. If you sell it, it'll likely cause a whole lot more drama then if you didn't pay her back for a few years (or if ever).
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 17:42
|
|
|
Deep 13 posted:In terms of features, it's nice to have the credit union be a part of the CO-OP ATM network (no-fee ATM availability around the country), and be part of the CU Service Centers (you can walk into other credit unions and bank there if you need to). I think my credit union's website is better than some major banks', but a podunk CU might have a crappy one that won't integrate with Mint or whatever. My bank is also instituting a monthly fee for debit card usage (Suntrust). I am eligible to join PenFed because of my employer-- but I couldn't find anything on the website about PenFed being part of a Co-op network. Is that something I need to ask about or are there websites/lists for CU co-op networks?
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 20:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 22:44 |
|
|
Deep 13 posted:In terms of features, it's nice to have the credit union be a part of the CO-OP ATM network (no-fee ATM availability around the country), and be part of the CU Service Centers (you can walk into other credit unions and bank there if you need to). I think my credit union's website is better than some major banks', but a podunk CU might have a crappy one that won't integrate with Mint or whatever. The one I'm looking at now isn't part of the CU Service Centers, but it is in the ATM network and looks to work with Mint (which I don't use yet). Thanks! Nocheez posted:Thanks for this. Bank of America's going to start charging a fee for debit card usage so it's finally the kick in the pants I needed to cut ties and move to a credit union. Same reason I'm switching.
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2011 20:36
|
|