|
Is there a resource of open source tunes that other people have done? I know blaise had a link way back in the thread but its gone now. I bought a tectrix cable for logging and trying to figure out why my 02 runs funny some times, and would like to do a off the shelf tune on it at the same time.
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 23:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 04:37 |
|
|
http://www.osecuroms.org/ is what I'm using with some personal modifications.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 23:41
|
|
|
jamal posted:the accessport has a flash for otherwise stock cars which will get you a few hp. Perfect. Intake, downpipe, tune. What are good intakes/brands? I figure the exhaust stuff is mostly similar but intakes are usually very different model to model.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 23:43
|
|
|
aem intake. downpipe needs to have a cast bellmouth to not fall apart after a couple years (or earlier, I've seen cheap ones leak out of the box). Invidia is probably the best choice. Besides the bellmouth section the other big difference with exhausts is whether they are full 3" or taper down to the stock donut gasket size in the middle. Going full 3" will make a good 15hp difference. Cobb, for example, makes really nice stuff but it uses the 2.5" donut gasket to make it easier to bolt up to stock parts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2011 23:50
|
|
|
jamal posted:aem intake. downpipe needs to have a cast bellmouth to not fall apart after a couple years (or earlier, I've seen cheap ones leak out of the box). Invidia is probably the best choice. Besides the bellmouth section the other big difference with exhausts is whether they are full 3" or taper down to the stock donut gasket size in the middle. Going full 3" will make a good 15hp difference. Cobb, for example, makes really nice stuff but it uses the 2.5" donut gasket to make it easier to bolt up to stock parts. I was looking at the invidia stuff previously. The bellmouth needs to have two openings right? I saw different options but I don't remember if they were for my car or older models. How is the turboxs stuff like this downpipe: http://www.fastwrx.com/tubedo0wr.html
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 00:02
|
|
|
Airbone Operation posted:2011. Step 1 meant Stage 1. Like can I just get the accessport and install everything required for stage two and go from there? If I am going to do the post turbo exhaust I am going to do it all. Why half rear end it with just a cat back? Ohh I see what you are saying, yeah you can go straight to stage2 if you install DP and Accessport at the same time. Catback wouldn't get you any power anyway, just sound.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 00:02
|
|
|
Jamal, I had a question about a replacement radiator for an 02 WRX a page back or so. Do you have and input to add on what to choose?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 01:39
|
|
|
koyo. I don't trust the knock off mishimoto crap.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 02:29
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good method for mounting Hella Supertones in a GC/GF? I ordered them without realizing I may have to fabricate up a bracket or drill into the rad support. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Sep 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 02:53
|
|
|
No loving wonder people sell cars before timing belt changes. My rear end is still sore from the wallet rape - even if I did get hoses changed, pulleys and tensioners changed, water pump changed, brakes redone, thermostat replaced, oil change and gently caress a duck the Seafoming was truly absurd.......! 1200 in parts and liquids and 500 for the mechanic who spent all day on the car. Now as to the seafoaming - I've never seen anything like it and in fact had no idea a car could get just that bad. Unexpected too, given the WRX isnt exactly idled about, it gets a good Italian tuning now and then, the bloody bushfire brigade came out as there was such a ridiculous amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust. We had to do it three times before the mechanic was happy and it STILL smoked the place out third time round. 122000 kms certainly gets a load of crap built up Interestingly nothing that came off was showing any hint of being 6 years old. Not even the timing belt had any real indication of wear and tear. Goes and sounds somewhat better now too, just in time to go put the wind up some STI's at Eastern Creek on Saturday
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 12:32
|
|
|
$500 for a days labor seems pretty drat good to me, those parts are expensive though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 13:50
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Does anyone have a good method for mounting Hella Supertones in a GC/GF? I ordered them without realizing I may have to fabricate up a bracket or drill into the rad support. Wait, what. Go to home depot and buy some aluminum bar. Drill a few holes, bend it a bit and voila. I don't have any picture here at work. But where the hood release mechanism goes there is a bolt or bolt hole that works perfectly. You bend the bar so that it is like this: _|=|_ The horns can be mounted on the sides and the center part will bolt onto that center support. If you bend the bar right, it will clear the grill and fit nicely behind. Fancy points for painting the bar. Edit: Found someone else's pictures    c355n4 fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Sep 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 13:55
|
|
|
Yeah, I don't have a lot of access to power tools. That said, you're right and I should just make my own bracket and run my own harness - I can always borrow tools. I imagine the GC hood latch support has similar bolts. I think I might also be able to hang it off the front lip of the rad support and space it out with washers.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 15:33
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, I don't have a lot of access to power tools. That said, you're right and I should just make my own bracket and run my own harness - I can always borrow tools. I imagine the GC hood latch support has similar bolts. Yea, I've seen it done that way before also. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 15:55
|
|
|
Lord Gaga posted:Been back and forth with Whiteline USA about this via email for a couple days now. Looks like they're going to send a replacement boot and possibly a new set of front end links for the trouble this has caused given the ridiculously fast failure rate. Helps that I had a shop install and press in the joints and have dated receipts for everything too. I got the new ball joint boots from Whiteline as well as a set of adjustable steel front sway bar end links for free. Both are on the car, I will report back when I get an alignment to see if there is a real noticeable difference. Car is on the 22.5mm sway bar setting in the front, 23mm in the rear so I am not expecting anything substantial. Still they took care of me and remedied the situation and I am very happy with the end result and customer service. Also Lexfiniti in Orlando, who I had do the ball joint install originally, is awesome. The owner offered to replace the ball joints and put in the Swaybar end links for free after giving me an AWESOME price on the original install even though it was not his fault they failed at all. I returned the favor by giving him my old cat back as he happened to have a 2002 Subaru there as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 01:40
|
|
|
nm posted:And really, they all probably should. Modern small turbo motors have no business having dino oil. It doesn't respond well to heat and can be subject to coking. I suspect the whole banjo filter (or reduced OCI) thing the the LGT would be a non-issue if syn had been required from the get go as that filter was clogged with coked oil. I suppose that's what killed my 04 FXT's original turbo? Shaft snapped on exhaust side. Thankfully, no serious damage noted on air side. I'm dying to get my car back from PDX tuning. :S How hard is a turbo timer to install? The end of my drive home is up a fun and winding 1000 foot elevation gain... edit: can someone explain to me the attraction to hellatones? Why not just air horns? I put dual air horns on my 83 Yamaha Midnight Maxim once upon a time - worked VERY WELL. PaladinXT fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Sep 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 06:49
|
|
|
PaladinXT posted:I suppose that's what killed my 04 FXT's original turbo? Shaft snapped on exhaust side. Thankfully, no serious damage noted on air side. Generally turbos that are both oil and water cooled don't need turbo timers. Coolant continues to cycle through them as the coolant that is in the turbo boils when you turn the car off. This forces the air to the reservoir where it can escape. It is the same principle that a coffee maker works on.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 07:03
|
|
|
PaladinXT posted:
Dont. Do. It. For one as correctly mentioned your car wont need it, it's specifically designed to handle most shutdowns without cooking itself. If on the other hand you do have a red hot turbo at the end of a drive then just do a 2km cooldown cruise and wait a minute with the car idling. Dont waste your money and as well a turbo timer is a brilliant way to get your car stolen as it circumvents all immobilisers and makes a car theifs job dead easy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 13:04
|
|
|
PaladinXT posted:edit: can someone explain to me the attraction to hellatones? Why not just air horns? I put dual air horns on my 83 Yamaha Midnight Maxim once upon a time - worked VERY WELL. I wonder this too, it seems it right up there with Accessports as far as Subaru owners are concerned.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 14:14
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:Dont. Do. It. Good point on the immoblizer. Was the stock turbo just that crappy? I put only Mobil-1 full synth 5W-30 in it. I am exceptionally hard on cars. I broke the crank on a 92 Saturn SL2, last fun car was an 02 Z06 which I drove like I stole it every day, so breaking a turbo wasn't an unexpected surprise. Where I work, having my car idling unattended would be exceptionally dumb - agreed. But let me ask this, if I don't install a timer, is idling the car with hood up in my driveway (rural and no-one that doesn't want to get ventilated would touch it) going to be enough to cool it off? Those banjo fittings on the turbos aren't inspiring at all. I'd believe that flowing everything (coolant and oil) through there more freely would be preferred. Why banjos?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 14:19
|
|
|
I'd be more concerned about Mobil 1 causing damage than not having a turbo timer.
blargle fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Sep 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 14:28
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:I wonder this too, it seems it right up there with Accessports as far as Subaru owners are concerned. I don't really understand it either. I guess because they are cheap and you can see them through the grill. I would get them just because my horn sucks, but I wouldn't get them in red.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 14:34
|
|
|
If there was an option to buy them in a stealthier colour I would have, I assure you.  Nothing wrong with participating in a bit of Subaru group think once in awhile, and I needed some horn for my '97 since the existing one was blown.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 15:19
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:If there was an option to buy them in a stealthier colour I would have, I assure you. Where did you get them from? Subimods have them in a ton of different colors.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 15:29
|
|
|
From a Canadian distributor. Subimods takes them apart and repaints them I think. e: Mine were $65 and I thought they were a bit excessive considering I could probably pick up a set of bike horns for a twenty. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Sep 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 15:32
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:From a Canadian distributor. Subimods takes them apart and repaints them I think. That sounds about right. I just can't get myself to spend $110 on horns.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 15:42
|
|
|
blargle posted:I'd be more concerned about Mobil 1 causing damage than not having a turbo timer. Exactly, especially 5w30 Mobile 1.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 15:46
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Exactly, especially 5w30 Mobile 1. Whats this about mobil 1 causing damage? I missed that in the thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 19:25
|
|
|
From the used oil analysis that I've seen in threads discussing Mobil 1, it's basically an oil meant for fuel economy - it's relatively thin to begin with, and shears very easily. The UOA's show that with vigorous driving, the oil breaks down into from a 30 to 20, meaning it won't be lubricating things as well. Maybe someone has more to add, but those are the reasons I've heard why Mobil 1 5w-30 should be avoided like the plague.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 19:36
|
|
|
Pretty much that, all the 5w-30's shear down quickly but Mobil seems to be either worse or it's just common so more people complain. If you kept the changes really short it'd probably be fine but removing the underbody panel is a pain in the rear end so a better solution is to use different oil.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 19:39
|
|
|
Hmm Ive been using the 5w30 high milage in my saab, where its better to be a bit thin so it doesn't sludge. The oil analysis came back ok, so I bought a bunch for the wrx. What should I run in it instead?
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 19:39
|
|
|
Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic seems to be the oil of choice. Easy to find. Not to pricey, and the UOAs are very good. Subaru engines seem to love the stuff.
bull3964 fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Sep 23, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 19:55
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic seems to be the oil of choice. Easy to find. Not to pricey, and the UOAs are very good. Subaru engines seem to love the stuff. I can attest to this. Subaru turbo motors run pretty hot and 5-40 seems to be the ticket especially if you ring it out or drive in a hot environment or both. It also doesn't hurt that it's affordable and much easier to find then say Motul or similar. I don't drive easy and my UOAs with Rotella suggest 7,000 or more change intervals with with no loss of protection.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 20:23
|
|
|
PaladinXT posted:edit: can someone explain to me the attraction to hellatones? Why not just air horns? I put dual air horns on my 83 Yamaha Midnight Maxim once upon a time - worked VERY WELL. They look cool.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 20:42
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic seems to be the oil of choice. Easy to find. Not to pricey, and the UOAs are very good. Subaru engines seem to love the stuff. Walmart has it in gallon jugs for around $20-24. Downside, they only seem to sell it in gallon jugs and the engine in the minivanlegacy takes 4.25 qts  It did return a stellar UOA at 5k miles, probably could do 7k miles if it was worth stretching the oil out that far.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 21:33
|
|
|
sanchez posted:Pretty much that, all the 5w-30's shear down quickly but Mobil seems to be either worse or it's just common so more people complain. Is there no access panel for the filter on WRX's? There's a little panel I can just pop out on my 09 STi that will let me take the filter off, and the drain plug is exposed (and soon to be switched out with a fumoto-style valve for extra-lazy easy oil changes ).
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 22:42
|
|
|
Those little access panels break off really easily and never quite fit properly again after one good winter. Pull it off, get a decent skid plate and then get used to bolting/unbolting it to do the change.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 22:46
|
|
|
No, you have to remove the whole underbody piece.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 22:50
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic seems to be the oil of choice. Easy to find. Not to pricey, and the UOAs are very good. Subaru engines seem to love the stuff. Oh nice, that's also the most frequently recommended oil for my new SV650. Looks like I'm heading to WallyWorld to stock up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2011 23:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 04:37 |
|
|
PaladinXT posted:Good point on the immoblizer. Was the stock turbo just that crappy? I put only Mobil-1 full synth 5W-30 in it. I am exceptionally hard on cars. I broke the crank on a 92 Saturn SL2, last fun car was an 02 Z06 which I drove like I stole it every day, so breaking a turbo wasn't an unexpected surprise.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 02:01
|
|