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Oxphocker posted:"so it might be something more like a moose proximity warning signal" I'm now going to refer to automobile storage in terms of Moose. "Yessir, I've got a two moose trunk here." Though mine is rated for 5 moose and came stock with an axe. Thanks Volvo!
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Sep 23, 2011 17:21
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TheJeffers posted:That's definitely the heater control valve. Here's another source for it: Thank you, that looks like it. Funny if I cross reference the part numbers I can find replacement valves like the units that AZ and RA sell. Wonder if theirs would work. I've already had a bad experience with AZ and O'Reillys on this car though. Went to buy plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Got home from the Zone and the wires wouldn't work with the cap they sold me. Then went to O'Reilly and they wires they sold were correct fitment at the cap and plugs, but waaaaaay to short. Was there a version of the redblock with the distributor in a different place? Because there is no way I could get these wires over the valve cover to the plugs on the passenger side of the bay. The distributor is on the driver's side behind the alt.
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Sep 23, 2011 19:12
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trouser chili posted:Thank you, that looks like it. Funny if I cross reference the part numbers I can find replacement valves like the units that AZ and RA sell. Wonder if theirs would work. I've already had a bad experience with AZ and O'Reillys on this car though. Went to buy plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Got home from the Zone and the wires wouldn't work with the cap they sold me. Then went to O'Reilly and they wires they sold were correct fitment at the cap and plugs, but waaaaaay to short. Was there a version of the redblock with the distributor in a different place? Because there is no way I could get these wires over the valve cover to the plugs on the passenger side of the bay. The distributor is on the driver's side behind the alt. Yeah, on earlier ('91-'93) 940s, the distributor was at the back of the cylinder head, and ran off the cam. Sometime around '94-'95, they started putting the distributor where yours is-it's in the same place that it was mounted in 240s. If you still need some wires, the Bougicords that FCP sells are great quality and aren't terribly expensive. I'd recommend those over anything from the parts store. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 19:34
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trouser chili posted:vacuum line That's the only control, the valve's spring-loaded; level of vacuum = amount of valve closed. I'm pretty sure that the failure position is valve open (because that'd be what I'd want in case the car decided to overheat), but I don't actually remember. You'll find out when you take it off. There's a couple different vacuum controls in the dashboard; you can test them with a Mity-Vac or similar, just follow them out of the firewall in the engine bay. You'll want a helper for turning dials.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:14
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Splizwarf posted:That's the only control, the valve's spring-loaded; level of vacuum = amount of valve closed. I'm pretty sure that the failure position is valve open (because that'd be what I'd want in case the car decided to overheat), but I don't actually remember. You'll find out when you take it off. Oh, so the vacuum is controlled inside. I figured for some reason it would plug straight into manifold source and was all like "HOW IN THE gently caress DOES THAT WORK?" This car's controls allude me for some reason, which doesn't make sense considering I drive a 1982 Mercedes.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:44
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Pull your dash trim and get a look at the controls from the back if you're interested, the guts are a very good visual explanation. Honestly, I don't think the controls are any different from the '72 Chevy truck I was helping restore last year. Ask more questions about the other things that still bother you.
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Sep 23, 2011 23:41
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Has anyone ever removed a strut on an 850? Im in the process of trying to replace my spring seats on my 95 850 turbo, and im stuck. I CAN NOT get the 4 point star nut off the top of the strut. This is the one below the retaining nut. Volvo has a special tool to do it, and of course I dont have it. Ive seen people say they just used channel locks, but I tried that, and couldnt get a grip. I have an idea on how to make my own tool, but I dont know if thats going to work. Can anyone tell me how to get this thing off?? edit: well never mind, just ordered the tool from ipd. still curious, has anyone gotten it off without the tool? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 01:08
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Splizwarf posted:Pull your dash trim and get a look at the controls from the back if you're interested, the guts are a very good visual explanation. Honestly, I don't think the controls are any different from the '72 Chevy truck I was helping restore last year. Heater valve on a 72 Chevy truck aught to be cable operated though, correct? It is on my 76 Scout, which pretty much is all Delco under the dash. Funny enough, my Merc escaped most of the nightmarish vacuum HVAC stuff and has manual cable-operated (dual zone!) heater control valves.
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Sep 24, 2011 02:15
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hedgegnome posted:Has anyone ever removed a strut on an 850? Im in the process of trying to replace my spring seats on my 95 850 turbo, and im stuck. I CAN NOT get the 4 point star nut off the top of the strut. This is the one below the retaining nut. Volvo has a special tool to do it, and of course I dont have it. Ive seen people say they just used channel locks, but I tried that, and couldnt get a grip. I have an idea on how to make my own tool, but I dont know if thats going to work. I have but it's a bitch and you end up mauling the nut. The IPD tool is custom made to avoid that problem. We used a rubber mallet/block of wood to loosen it and then a large open ended wrench to turn it.
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Sep 24, 2011 02:29
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Oxphocker posted:I have but it's a bitch and you end up mauling the nut. The IPD tool is custom made to avoid that problem. We used a rubber mallet/block of wood to loosen it and then a large open ended wrench to turn it. Yeah i tried any combination of pipe wrench, c wrench, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips and anything I could find. I was just getting mad and tearing up the bolt.
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Sep 24, 2011 03:35
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Whatever you're doing with yourself, you should just give up now and commit suicide. This guy is better than you in every way. He wins at the game of life. He tows a blue-plate 911 racecar behind a blue-plate 240 wagon. Oh, and the 911's license plate says "TOP END". (spotted on 101 today just south of San Francisco, near SFO)   I love the car people out here on the west coast. *edit* reposted from AI'est ever thread. it needed to be here as well. toaster_pastry fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 04:57
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I need to go kill myself now thanks. The Midwest has terrible car culture. If I didn't have such a good job here, I would be outta here. On another note, I tried doing some googling and the dates are fuzzy... What are the last years of RWD Volvo's are? And more specifically, what is the best year for a rear wheel drive turbo car?
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Sep 24, 2011 19:57
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I need to go kill myself now thanks. The Midwest has terrible car culture. Get a 965. That or a 245... Speaking of which. Jeffers, I hear that eithr you or your brother has a M-4something trans. If you do let me know, I might be interested in buying it if you are willing to part with it.
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Sep 24, 2011 21:31
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I need to go kill myself now thanks. The Midwest has terrible car culture. The "best" years of the turbo RWD Volvos in the US are the '93-'95 940 Turbos with the big rods and the piston oil squirters. The 960/S90 series continued on until '98, but they're luxury cars at the core, and they have zero aftermarket. Any performance mods for those are up to your imagination. Svenski, I don't have any more (good) M4X transmissions. I would be willing to give you cash for the wagon and pick it up from Columbus if you ever decide to come off it, though.
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Sep 24, 2011 22:23
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I'm thinking about doing the timing belt on my 82 242T myself but not sure if its something that I should take on. I'm not an overly experienced mechanic and I will be doing this in a hotel parking lot with basic hand tools. What is the degree of difficulty for this job - is the alignment tool worth getting for doing this once?
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Sep 25, 2011 04:16
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Heh. I can do a 240 timing belt in about 40 minutes if I'm by myself. I tutored a guy on how to do his about a month ago and it took us 1:15 because of all the talking. What I mean by that is it's pretty easy, although on an automatic the hardest part is locking the crank to get the harmonic balancer off. If it's a stick, just put it in 4th and lock up the e-brake, engine locked. You don't need the cam lock tool for 2 reasons: 1) it's a single cam, so the lock tool won't fit anywhere, and 2) it's non interference, you can spin the cam or crank all day long with the belt off and it doesn't hurt anything. If you add in the front 3 seals it becomes a longer job, but I wouldn't recommend that on the first outing. Just do the belt and idler, you'll be fine.
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Sep 25, 2011 04:30
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LloydDobler posted:Cool - thanks. I'll order the parts ch1mp fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Sep 25, 2011 |
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Sep 25, 2011 04:42
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Do you have a good tutorial? Let us know if you need any help finding one.
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Sep 25, 2011 06:16
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I think I have the .pdf Greenbook for it but I would love a good link if you've got one with commentary about the job. Greenbooks are nice but austere.
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Sep 25, 2011 07:43
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Alright, I'm stumped. I put in a reman'd alternator (I THINK it's an AC Delco but there's no identifiers on it other than the numbers 9696). However, none of the case studs are extended more than 3mm so there's no where to hook up a ground. I thought maybe it was internally grounded so I fired it up anyway, but I was getting no voltage out (checking against the 12V and the case stud, and at the battery). Any thoughts, or possible other ground locations I can afix it to? I could solder the wire to it but I doubt it will stay. Corrupt Cypher fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 00:02
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Post photos. Also, what's the vehicle? Can't remember.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:28
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zundfolge posted:Svenski, I don't have any more (good) M4X transmissions. I would be willing to give you cash for the wagon and pick it up from Columbus if you ever decide to come off it, though. Bummer. I actually got the wagon home this weekend with out so much as a hick up. I don't know what all the fuss was about, thing drove like a champ. Now its time to gut and rebuild and reconfigure just about everything.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:34
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Splizwarf posted:Post photos. Also, what's the vehicle? Can't remember. Will do when it's light out again. 93' 240. What I'm thinking now is just running a thread extender or something. I am seriously doubting it's internally grounded since it wasn't giving me 14v, only like 0.4v.
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Sep 26, 2011 02:07
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kimbo305 posted:Thoughts on this 242 Turbo?: Saw it today, though because of miscommunication, the seller had it in his garage not ready to test drive. There's rust on one rear quarter, but otherwise pretty good. He's a Volvo nut and takes it to all the shows. If it's a driver, I'm pretty tempted. It was sitting on another set of wheels; he said selling it with the Virgos in the picture would run the price up to 2000, after floating 1500 for without. He's a really cool guy and has been in the VCOA for ages, which I think makes me trust his assessment of the car. That and he's a jet engineer who works on the car himself. The one issue he brought up was that it doesn't seem to want to go into OD 5th until the tranny's been warmed up over a few miles. He said he redid all the wiring from the shifter to the tranny but it hasn't helped, and that he has thrown a replacement solenoid at the problem.
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Sep 26, 2011 03:45
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That usually means low fluid, although it does have an internal oil pump which is what usually fails if there's an internal failure. Did he mention checking or changing the fluid? Does he know if it leaks? If the tranny is externally dry, it probably ran so well for so long he just neglected to do that first. It's easy enough to do, you just drain it out the drain plug, then fill it till it pours out of the fill plug. It should take ATF, but confirm in the manual. If that doesn't solve the problem, it's probably in need of a rebuild.
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Sep 26, 2011 03:50
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Could be that it's the OD relay. They weren't soldered very well when new, and after 30 years of heat-cycling, the joints tend to crack, and the OD won't work, or works only intermittently. Sometimes reflowing the joints will fix it, but IIRC a new one isn't that expensive. e: or that ^^
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Sep 26, 2011 03:53
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I think he said he checked the fluid level and it wasn't that. He definitely knew it was supposed to be ATF.
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Sep 26, 2011 06:52
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Changed the transmission fluid in my '05 XC90 on Friday. Man, that was the easiest transmission fluid change I've ever done. I ran 10 quarts through and the oil that came out changed from dark red to nice cherry red... good for another 75k miles. Volvo says it's a lifetime fluid, but that's just silly. The same Aisin AF33 gearbox is used in some European Opels and they specify 40k mile changes. Weird.
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Sep 26, 2011 15:34
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EVERYWHERE 
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Lifetime just means "duration of warranty". There are guys getting 300k out of notoriously bad FWD Volvo transmissions because they ignored the "never change it" spec.
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Sep 26, 2011 19:48
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Splizwarf posted:Post photos. Also, what's the vehicle? Can't remember. (93 240 electrical problems) Used a coupling nut to extend the case stud out, seems to be working as a ground. I was only getting ~12.6V instead of 14.4 though (at the terminals of the alternator). I wanted to be sure that wasn't just the charge coming off the battery so I took the ground off while the engine was going. It kept running! At this point my only guess is a slack belt, unless anyone else has any ideas.
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Sep 30, 2011 00:50
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Question...looking to do a trans flush on a 98 V70R...is the Volvo fluid the best to go with or some other product out there? Edit: bought a gallon of DexIII to start the flush and 8Qts of DexVI to finish it off...got all of it for less than $100. I considered Mobil 1 Synth ATF and/or Royal Purple ATF but it seemed overkill. Problem is my V70R has almost 140k and I don't know if the PO ever flushed it before. The fluid doesn't look black but it's definately heading towards brown/maroon. Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Oct 2, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 03:41
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Welp, going to look at an '87 240 Manual wagon tomorrow. This will necessitate selling the 96 manual camry wagon I bought 4 months ago because I spend over 6 months looking for a manual 240 and finding poo poo all... Not all bad, because the profit I'm hoping to make on the camry should nearly pay for the Volvo. The ad says 5spd manual, but I'm assuming it's the 4sp/electronic overdrive? Anything in particular to look out for with those apart from the usual mantran issues and that O/D functions?
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Sep 30, 2011 23:29
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Hey guys, I could use some advice. I recently picked up a 97 850 Sedan Turbo - engine had been rebuilt and is running a bit higher boost etc; What type of gas did these use standard? Guy I bought car from said regular works fine but I'm kind of skepticle. He did all the work and rebuilt it so I'm inclined to trust him.
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Oct 2, 2011 18:10
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It will run with regular but the manual calls for premium in turbo 850s. I get much better mileage in my 850 turbo when I use premium.
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Oct 2, 2011 20:13
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charliecantsurf posted:Hey guys, I could use some advice. I'd use premium as an insurance measure, especially if it's running higher boost than stock. You don't want any sort of pre-detonation going on.
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Oct 2, 2011 20:56
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For most of the Volvo turbos it's advisable to use at least mid-grade or premium due to higher cylinder pressures. I know some people use mid-grade for highway driving and premium for in-town because of all the stop and go. You'll usually see a slight mpg improvement for using premium (helps offset some of the cost). Also, check all your stage 0 stuff if you just bought it: filters oil trans fluid brakes/suspension turbo/pcv angle gear/differential distrib/wires/plugs
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Oct 2, 2011 21:47
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Alright, didn't get to see the car yet, going on Tuesday, but had a few emails back and forth with the seller and it's definitely a 5spd (87 was the first year of them according to K-Jet) She sent me the last bill from the mechanics, had a service etc to the tune of $600 and still got 1k+ to go according to him, but it's mostly trumped up bullshit ( aka $200 to supply and fit a new valve cover gasket  ). Apart from that it's new pads/rotors on the front (she already got the rears done) but what's most concerning is it's apparently also got worn out lower balljoints at the front, how hard are these to fix? I've not done a lot of suspension work before, but I see the parts at least are cheap so I'm still keen on the car. Mechanic wanted $460 to do both lowers; so i'm guessing it's a fairly labour intensive job?
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Oct 3, 2011 00:34
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Just kind of a pain in the dick, as all balljoint jobs are. Not too intense in terms of complication but grunty and irritating while you try to pop them bitches out. On the other hand, you might not need them; balljoint replacements are, shall we say, often oversold. New pads and rotors will be easy goodtimes.
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Oct 3, 2011 04:10
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I finally got to drive the 1984 242 Turbo I mentioned earlier. Some notes: The car was more or less what I expected in terms of feel, except there's plastic cladding on the trans tunnel next to the gas pedal, which makes it really narrow. Brake-gas spacing is also narrow, so I can barely step on the gas without sliding along the plastic and catching the brake. I guess I need to get used to using my toes or possibly wearing Pilotis all the time. Other negatives: the shift knob popped off in my hand when I did my second 1-2 shift. It's not screwed in. It's rubber while the collar it sits on in splined. Since the knob has the electronic 5th gear button, it takes a lot of fiddling to rewire it back into the wires in the shifter shaft. I would need to do something to secure the knob better, or otherwise change my shift motion to accomodate. Sadly, the car has bullet fuses like the 190E 2.3-16v I had, and the loose one here is the main fuel pump. He said that of the 2 times the fuse came loose, at least once it wasn't over any bump or because of shakes. The car comes with the intercooler upgrade kit: http://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0002 The acceleration wasn't glacial. I feel like it could keep up with the 190E, at least thanks to the short gearing. Is there any way I can check to see what the maximum boost is, or to review that hose adjustment mentioned in the link? Here's where I got a taste of how well it's been maintained -- I asked for a standard check of the lights, horn, wipers, etc., and the high beams didn't work right. Pass side lights would go off when high beams were triggered. Instead of making up some story about how that would probably be an easy fix, the seller (a retirement age jet engineer with a West Indies accent) started disassembling the headlamp housing to take a peak. We tried a few things with a spare (but wrongly sized) hi beam lamp, but without a voltmeter, we couldn't tell for sure where the break was. He's actually going to pursue investigating the switch in the dashboard light as well as the light wiring, which won't be fun. I shoulda gotten a picture -- 2-door 240s look great.
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Oct 3, 2011 08:55
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kimbo305 posted:I finally got to drive the 1984 242 Turbo I mentioned earlier. Some notes: Unfortunately, this comes with the territory. I don't know if the early cars had this, but at least on my '89, there's a clip back there that the rear edge of the cladding slides into. If the cladding isn't mounted properly, then it does get awfully narrow around the pedalbox. quote:Other negatives: the shift knob popped off in my hand when I did my second 1-2 shift. It's not screwed in. This is pretty common too. Some people glue it on, but that sucks if you have to fix anything related to the wiring. Maybe some spray adhesive or even hairspray would help. As for the bullet fuses, it's a great preventative maintenance measure to pull the fuseblock out, clean it with a wire brush, and bend the terminals a little so that they clamp the fuses better. quote:The car comes with the intercooler upgrade kit: Installing a calibrated boost gauge is probably the easiest way to tell what's going on with the turbo. As the car sits, there's no way to tell precisely what the boost pressure is-however, if the gauge is staying out of the red, the "Turbo" light in the cluster (which is an overboost indicator) isn't coming on, and the car isn't hitting fuel cut, you're probably within the stock parameters. As for adjusting boost, I'd recommend a manual boost controller instead of fooling around with hose lengths. Be careful, though-even though the engine in that car has a very low compression ratio (~7.5:1 IIRC), the CIS/K-Jet fuel injection system can't easily provide more fuel than what it delivers stock, so raising the boost right off the bat probably isn't advisable until you can make sure everything's OK from the fuel side of things. Otherwise, you risk detonation, and since K-Jet doesn't have a knock-sensing function, you can do some damage pretty quick. quote:Here's where I got a taste of how well it's been maintained -- I asked for a standard check of the lights, horn, wipers, etc., and the high beams didn't work right. Pass side lights would go off when high beams were triggered. Instead of making up some story about how that would probably be an easy fix, the seller (a retirement age jet engineer with a West Indies accent) started disassembling the headlamp housing to take a peak. We tried a few things with a spare (but wrongly sized) hi beam lamp, but without a voltmeter, we couldn't tell for sure where the break was. He's actually going to pursue investigating the switch in the dashboard light as well as the light wiring, which won't be fun. The switch is a good place to check, but making sure your grounds and connectors are decently clean is at least as important. There's a large, rectangular metal relay inside the driver's side fender that handles the brights-if that's not working properly or is dirty, then that could lead to some issues too. In the early 240s, Volvo runs the full headlight current through the switch, so if anything goes out of whack, it can get melty, fast. If you ever decide to upgrade from sealed beams, or don't like fire, it might not hurt to look into a relay harness for the headlights. If the body is reasonably sound, and it runs well, snap it up-it sounds like a decent car, and the issues it does have aren't that expensive to resolve. One last thing to check-there's a big gray rectangular connector on the firewall above the intake manifold. If the wires that lead into it are crispy, melted, or bare, then the wiring harness has the less heat resistant insulation, and should probably be replaced or repaired straight away. Replacement harnesses are easy enough to find on Turbobricks or Brickspeed, and it's a good investment to avoid weird/major problems down the road. SUSE Creamcheese fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Oct 3, 2011 21:15
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