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MakerBot Industries also has a cool eggbot that can draw things on eggs, ping pong balls, etc. It's a lot cheaper than most (all?) regular 3D printers.
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Aug 23, 2011 14:48
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| # ? May 8, 2024 04:42 |
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Wow. MakerBot got a $10M investment today: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/08/23/all-star-lineup-invests-in-makerbot/
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Aug 23, 2011 23:18
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Anyone with a printer, talent, and boredom feel like doing a stupid commission? I'd really like a sugar-cookie cutter that's dog-bone shaped and stamps "Scooby Snack" onto the top. To not poo poo up the thread, please PM me. (Willing to pay actual money. I understand that this costs your time, mental energy, materials, machine wear and tear, shipping/handling, etc...). Edit : techknight posted:But if the project is unappealing without the text, you'll likely pay simply for the design and then upload the file to Ponoko or Shapeways where the design will be professionally 3D printed (in metal if you like) on-demand. Thank you for the insight! Saved me some disappointment, it's appreciated. Offer still stands for a talented person (I am not) to make the design as a file that one of those two will accept. Also afterwards if you want to shoot the design onto like thingiverse, that'd be cool with me. I don't need a monopoly to be happy. Same Great Paste fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 02:43
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Same Great Paste posted:Anyone with a printer, talent, and boredom feel like doing a stupid commission? I'd really like a sugar-cookie cutter that's dog-bone shaped and stamps "Scooby Snack" onto the top. To not poo poo up the thread, please PM me. (Willing to pay actual money. I understand that this costs your time, mental energy, materials, machine wear and tear, shipping/handling, etc...). That might be a fun project. I should warn you though, I don't think that you'll get that much text in the cookie cutter. The letters would need to be really thick and widely-spaced to come out legibly, not just because of hobbyist printer quality, but also because you want there to be a legible impression made into some dough. If you're willing to forego the text entirely, there's a Win/Mac/Linux app specifically for making cookie cutters for 3D printing: http://www.local-guru.net/blog/pages/cookiecutter-editor But if the project is unappealing without the text, you'll likely pay simply for the design and then upload the file to Ponoko or Shapeways where the design will be professionally 3D printed (in metal if you like) on-demand.
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Aug 24, 2011 06:17
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Is this kinda what you are looking for? (now with holes) I'm printing a test out now. It should make a 10mm thick cookie with a 5mm impression for the letters. Of course I have no idea what works best for sugar cookies, but all of the parameters can be changed instantly. (Hooray OpenSCAD!) edit: Here's what a Makerbot can do with the model. 
Videodrome fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 25, 2011 23:53
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I had no idea there was a program specifically for creating cookie cutters in 3D.  Same Great Paste, if you're still wanting someone to Just Do It for you, consider posting an ad on the Adafruit Jobs Board: http://www.adafruit.com/jobs/ Should hook you up with someone who can get you what you need. e: hahahaha, I see the previous poster Just Did It! 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 00:19
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Videodrome posted:Is this kinda what you are looking for?  Holy crap, that's ... perfect. You're perfect. Only thing I'd ask is to add a few little holes in the top to let the air out when it's pressed in. Otherwise please PM me again to let me know how I can repay such glory.
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Aug 26, 2011 01:07
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Same Great Paste posted:
No need to pay me for the model. I'll put it up on Thingiverse and if you want someone to print it you can just send them the model. Alternatively, if you me to print you one just PM me the address. However, as techknight said, a Makerbot is not going to give you the same quality as something printed by Ponoko or Shapeways. Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11042 Videodrome fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 01:32
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Haha, I was just browsing thingiverse and saw this! Great job! Edit: What did you print on, btw? Snackmar fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 02:22
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techknight posted:Edit: What did you print on, btw? ToM, 3mm ABS through Stepstruder w/ old Mk5 nozzle. The discoloration is because I just switched from red to natural before the print.
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Aug 26, 2011 03:27
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Claes Oldenburger posted:The way i see it, it's very very hard to get precision AND speed at the same time. he said each layer has to harden for about 4 seconds...and each layer can be 0.05mm thin so it'll still be quite a while :P 50 micron layers for a home machine is not bad. I wonder what his accuracy over his X/Y travel is?
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Sep 1, 2011 15:35
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Holy poo poo this is awesome. Is it wrong that I want to get a 3D MRI of my own brain, and then have it made out of plastic, to scale?
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Sep 1, 2011 23:16
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Fuzz posted:Holy poo poo this is awesome. That sounds perfectly normal to me! Check out this MRI 3D model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:822
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Sep 2, 2011 03:45
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My new spools of ABS just arrived! About 10 minutes later my retention disk whatever it's called snapped, letting my extruder head swing free! Hooray!
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Sep 2, 2011 16:28
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Holy crap, I'd never heard of this multi-material printer by Objet before: http://www.objetblog.com/2011/08/18/check-out-our-3d-printed-toddler-with-visible-internal-bone-structure/ 
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Sep 4, 2011 18:46
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Finished my copy of Bioluminescence's Deus Ex HR candelabra design:  
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Sep 7, 2011 06:46
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techknight posted:Finished my copy of Bioluminescence's Deus Ex HR candelabra design: That is SO COOOOL.
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Sep 7, 2011 12:57
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Big freakin' news: MakerBot is about to release a new dual-head extruder for multiple colours or materials in a single print. Holy poo poo. That means you can use water-soluble support material to print complex stuff with overhangs and then wash it away from the final object. From http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2011/06/15/technology/personaltech/20110915-BASICS.html?src=tp 
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Sep 15, 2011 10:31
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Looks like its not a dual head extruder but the new extruder which is small enough to mount two of them if you want to http://store.makerbot.com/stepstruder-mk7-complete.html 1.75mm only quote:Our most compact extruder yet, the StepStruder® MK7 is less than half the weight of our previous extruder. The MK6 Plus extruder was a sturdy 1.8lbs, and the MK7 is only 0.8 lbs! The inside of your MakerBot Thing-O-Matic® will feel positively spacious with an MK7 in place- spacious enough you could mount a second MK7 right next to it!
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Sep 15, 2011 13:10
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Ahh, sounds quite a bit more experimental than I was hoping.  Not sad about 3mm going away, people keeping that and 1.75mm filament in stock was never going to last.
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Sep 15, 2011 14:24
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Electric Apathy posted:Looks like its not a dual head extruder but the new extruder which is small enough to mount two of them if you want to They keep going on about how "EXPERIMENTAL" a dual extruder setup would be, yet fab@home has had dual extruders for some time. Though it doesn't look like much of interest has happened with the fab@home project since then (its extruders are still syringe based). Cockmaster fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 01:13
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I don't know about anyone else, but lack of an additional extruder ain't the reason I'm not printing more or different things than I already am. I could see the allure though, maybe for two-colour printing. But for support structure? Isn't that really a software thing? Get "snip-offable" automatic support structures going first, then worry about loving making them water-soluble or whatever the hell with the second extruder. I am surely at least somewhat talking out my rear end, though. I'm totally the  "I don't know much about art, but I know what I want and like!" of the 3D printer world.
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Sep 17, 2011 01:28
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Mister Sinewave posted:But for support structure? Isn't that really a software thing? Get "snip-offable" automatic support structures going first, then worry about loving making them water-soluble or whatever the hell with the second extruder. Well, ReplicatorG actually does this if you turn on "exterior support" during skeining, but the problem with same-material support is that it's a pain to remove: (Even when you set it really thin.)  (click for huge)
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Sep 17, 2011 03:27
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Huh, I honestly did not know that!
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Sep 17, 2011 07:11
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If Junior Veloso's printer is released, and can reliably do what it's supposed to do... I will probably buy one, as long as the cost is under let's say $2000... But, he wants to charge $300 for the software, which IMHO is not a savvy maneuver at all. Makes me think that somehow the guy is full of poo poo and his machine will never really see the light of day. My Rhythmic Crotch fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 12:29
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techknight posted:
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Sep 17, 2011 13:59
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The 3DCG thread might be of help. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2877226 That object though, I'm pretty sure you could easily produce it in Rhino and 3ds Max.
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Sep 17, 2011 15:26
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Mister Sinewave posted:I don't know about anyone else, but lack of an additional extruder ain't the reason I'm not printing more or different things than I already am. Actually, I just printed my first couple of things on the makerbot someone I know has, and the shapes I wanted got a bit messed up due to lack of support. I'm definitely not wasting any more money on making things until real support is a possibility.
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Sep 17, 2011 16:47
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I use my printer for solid, geometrically-simple shapes. I'd have a different opinion I'm sure if I were printing things like that skull. Here's the last couple things I printed by way of example. When I need a specialized shape or part for a project I tend to print it if it's suitable. Usually I need a complex shape that would be a pain in the rear end to make from scratch, but is nevertheless geometrically primitive:  e: One of my peeves is when I have to make something in two parts due to printer limitations, so I would benefit from decent support structure now that I consider it. Shrinkage, smoothness of edges/sides, and accuracy of smaller objects and shapes are probably overall my biggest concerns. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Sep 17, 2011 |
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Sep 17, 2011 17:55
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hootimus posted:If Junior Veloso's printer is released, and can reliably do what it's supposed to do... I will probably buy one, as long as the cost is under let's say $2000... Yea I was wondering about this....maybe that's just a standalone price? I assume it will be bundled with HIS machine. But I guess we'll see...
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Sep 18, 2011 04:10
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What's wrong with a $300 price point? It's not a game, and it's on par with most other small studio industrial / cad software pricing.
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Sep 18, 2011 04:13
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I guess it depends on how you look at it. If you're looking at it like, "hey I'm getting the comparable quality to a $30k machine" then it's probably not a big deal. But if you come at it from the perspective of "well, that $300 will buy me a good chunk of a makerbot or whatever" then it might seem less lucrative. Plus his company could vanish and the software may never be tweaked or updated again...
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Sep 19, 2011 20:41
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I wanted to try printing this today http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11636 to try it out. But opening the .STL files in ReplicatorG results in a tiny (as in, microscopic) model! I have no idea why this is, but clearly I need to scale up by some amount. I can know out how big it's supposed to be, but without knowing how big it is right now (tiny version), I can't figure out what the scale-up factor should be. Any suggestions? I don't even know why it opened tiny like this. (I use my 3D printer a lot, but 3D software experience consists of Sketchup + STL exporter, playing with Skeinforge settings as little as possible while my jaw spasms from repeated clenching, and getting a few steps through a Blender tutorial before wanting to shoot myself through the head.)
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Sep 21, 2011 17:23
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Mister Sinewave posted:I wanted to try printing this today http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11636 to try it out. Sometimes people save their models in inches instead of millimetres by mistake (or their software does it by default). Just click the inches->mm button on the Scale screen of RepG and it will auto-scale by the right amount: 
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Sep 21, 2011 19:49
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Ah, that did the trick. I was also given the 25.4 number but I didn't really clue in to what was going on behind the scenes. I understand now. My print was OK and to the correct size, except that since it's a tall model, even with the heated build platform it lifted/curled enough to peel off the platform, and the middle-to-upper layers did not stick to each other well. I'm thinking of enclosing the build area somewhat and maybe putting a small hair dryer on low just to keep the build area from getting too cool too fast. 
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Sep 21, 2011 20:52
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Hey hey hey, guess who just figured out something that's surely old news to anyone who actually knows what they're doing? I'm making an arm to attach to a power window motor gear.  Since measuring and 3D designing all the teeth and crap to actually fit the motor's gear looked way too much like work, I figured I'd just make something that fit over the gear then goop it all up with epoxy putty or something. But in an extremely rare moment of forward-thinking, I thought I might actually want to take the arm off the motor, so maybe I shouldn't epoxy it all up.  At the same time I got this idea to allow me to design a form-fitting piece to mate to the gear without taking a single measurement! (other than the gear diameter - 23mm) Step 1: Photograph the gear, then crop it out. (Like this, but crop it right to the edges of the gear teeth.)  Step 2: In sketchup (if I could use a real 3D modeling program, would I be screwing around with this?) go IMPORT -> then select the gear .jpg and import as Image. Stick it into the 23mm square hole in the arm. (The gear's 23mm wide, so if we do this sloppily enough it should scale to match real world size.) I'm pasting the graphic onto the bottom, here. The image will be 2-sided.  Step 3: Start drawing lines to make chunks that mate to the gear teeth. Zoom in if sketchup is persistently snapping to some mystery points in the model. Get it close, but not TOO close. If I'm going through this much work to avoid doing it properly then I'm sure as hell not going to want to break out a file after printing because it's too tight a fit.   Step 4: Remove the image and do any cleanup of the model (like erasing the inside lines and crap inside the structure that makes skeinforge poo poo the bed). TOOL -> Section Plane to slice the model in 1/2 works great.  Step 5: Print that bastard, then OH YEAH IT FITS PERFECTLY +  +  
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Sep 24, 2011 07:30
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Mister Sinewave posted:Ah, that did the trick. I was also given the 25.4 number but I didn't really clue in to what was going on behind the scenes. I understand now. Dig back a few pages, someone did just that.
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Sep 24, 2011 12:06
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I had tried it (that was me) but that was before I had a heated build platform. I ditched it when the HBP seemed to solve all those problems. Turns out that there's still a problem - even with the HBP - when it comes to tall models so I'll likely wind up hauling out that very same hair dryer again after all.
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Sep 24, 2011 19:19
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techknight posted:Well, ReplicatorG actually does this if you turn on "exterior support" during skeining, I upgraded to the latest ReplicatorG (which I avoid because I have to re-tweak all the customizing I did in the last one and am not determined enough to figure out how to make my settings portable) to try this feature out! But either it or me doesn't work the way the other thinks it should. I wanted this:  And what I got is this:  loving 
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Sep 25, 2011 23:59
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| # ? May 8, 2024 04:42 |
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I know this field is rapidly evolving, but if you had to get a printer today that you felt had the best performance/price point, what would your top choice be? I'm completely open to kits that require assembly.
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Sep 26, 2011 14:01
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