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You can get BBS LM knockoffs for cheap as gently caress. (Read: $560/set shipped in 18x8 / 18x9) http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1707116 I'm not sure what 'cheap' is to you though. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 06:15
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gently caress knock off wheels.
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Sep 23, 2011 07:24
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Totally, I'd rather pay $950 a wheel for LMs in the same size to save a little weight and some more epeen. Oh wait, no, because they are knockoffs they will explode at speed and cause me to crash into a nunnery.
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Sep 23, 2011 07:28
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That and it's a stolen design that's taking money away from the businesses that put R&D into those designs. "Fake" parts are a big problem, and they are hurting lots of companies that make products you'd like.
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Sep 23, 2011 11:01
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Nait Sirhc posted:Bargain of the century if anyone needs some 19x9.5 rear wheels... Front: Front Fitment No Longer Available
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Sep 23, 2011 13:54
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BrokenKnucklez posted:To get that bushing off some times is a royal pain in the rear end. From what I heard at the BMW club, every one says its just easier to replace the whole arm and get some new ball joints in. To each his own I guess. It's really not so bad on the E46. I would rip off the brackets, likely leaving behind the inner part of the bushing on the control arm still, then cut off the remaining bit. Using soap, slide new one on.
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Sep 23, 2011 14:59
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BlackMK4 posted:Totally, I'd rather pay $950 a wheel for LMs in the same size to save a little weight and some more epeen. Oh wait, no, because they are knockoffs they will explode at speed and cause me to crash into a nunnery. Yeah, its one or the other 
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Sep 23, 2011 16:26
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How does this E21 look?: http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/2605517151.html My gf is looking at E30s, but this one has as much or arguably more style. It's never going to be as fast, but maybe that'd be ok. My main concern is misc parts availability -- the M10 1.8 is pretty stout, right?
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Sep 23, 2011 17:05
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Mr. Toast posted:That and it's a stolen design that's taking money away from the businesses that put R&D into those designs. "Fake" parts are a big problem, and they are hurting lots of companies that make products you'd like. I would imagine that the overlap of people who would spend $600 for a set of wheels versus $4000-$8000 for a set of wheels is very small, especially when you're dealing with cars worth $5-15k.
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Sep 23, 2011 17:17
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Its not like there are any wheel companies selling original designs for 600 or less oh wai Reps look like crap. More 'baller on a budget' bullshit.
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Sep 23, 2011 17:20
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kimbo305 posted:How does this E21 look?:  ........   That car is possessed by demons, there's no way it should be that cheap. (If it were possessed I'd still buy it and drive it every day) The only caveat with E21s is age. If your GF or YOU aren't willing to get your hands dirty or lay down the cash for preventative maintenance, you need to let someone else pick it up. Otherwise, call now, because it'll go quick. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 18:11
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I'm taking a look at this guy later tonight: http://www.imagebam.com/gallery/am8thg1aqb1bdqzfmhllrdn7asxnk3by Talked to the seller a bit. It's a 325i, bought by this guy in march, and the odometer had already quit when he picked it up so there's no telling on the mileage. The previous owner also apparently ripped out the roof interior for some unknown reason, which is my biggest gripe with it. There is hail damage and the paint is in bad shape but I'm going to paint this thing regardless so that's not a concern. It's also had all the AC bits removed (compressor, condenser, lines) at some point. Again, not a big concern for me as I don't ever really touch the AC, but it's certainly another reason to knock down the price. What say you, AI? edit: also, what should I be looking for on these cars? I'm definitely looking for an E30, and have tons of experience wrenching on my stuff, but I've never had much exposure to BMWs of any era. dreggory fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Sep 23, 2011 |
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Sep 23, 2011 18:19
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dreggory posted:What say you, AI? What is the price good sir? Check your ball joints and what not. Most likely cooling system needs refreshed... typical BMW stuff. E30 is a simple car though, and are most conducive to "drive it like you stole it". Oh and its missing the center caps... that would be worth pointing out. Also find out when the timing belt was last serviced.
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Sep 23, 2011 18:41
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BrokenKnucklez posted:What is the price good sir? They have it listed on CL for $2,250 OBO but that seemed pretty high compared to others I've looked at, considering the condition of this one. How much of a pain is that roof liner going to be if I wanted to do something about it?
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Sep 23, 2011 18:58
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Do those KV5's fit on an E46? It would be hilarious to run 17" fronts and 19" rears.
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Sep 23, 2011 19:19
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Can you run wacky offsizes like that? I'd do that for winter. 18s up front and 19s in the rear.
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Sep 23, 2011 20:04
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Since we were talking about control arms and bushings on the last page, could someone tell me if I should get entirely new control arms instead of just bushings? Here's the quote my shop sent me. (Dinan in Mountain View)
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Sep 23, 2011 22:10
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$200 for an alignment seems a little steep to me.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:15
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I actually called another local shop (Motorsport Techniques in Hayward) that I saw recommended on e46fanatics, and they said they'd do the alignment for $85 and the control arm bushings for slightly less (cheaper labor and polyurethane bushings for the same price as the quote above). Maybe I should just call them directly and get a quote for the entire control arms haha.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:41
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Mark Larson posted:Since we were talking about control arms and bushings on the last page, could someone tell me if I should get entirely new control arms instead of just bushings? Here's the quote my shop sent me. (Dinan in Mountain View) Here are the bushings for $59.99: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/12946/nm/BMW_Control_Arm_Bushings_323i_325i_328i_E46_3_series_xi/category_id/181 More options: http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.aspx?keyword=31126783376 Alignment should be around $100 for a good shop. I would recommend finding a quality Firestone, as they can do lifetime alignments (as long as you own the car) for around that price. Dinan is not cheap -- $145 an hour is pretty high up there. Even in Silicon Valley the hourly rates are closer to $75-85 an hour. I'm near San Francisco and consistently find $75/hr shops. Edit: They're not even doing the alignment themselves (see "sublet" on the invoice). I hate that place.
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Sep 23, 2011 22:45
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I pay $50 for an alignment around here, they will align to specs you supply and let you come in for 'adjustments' within a 90 day window. Pretty well worth it, especially since the techs are cool.
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Sep 23, 2011 23:28
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Bank posted:IMO everything is expensive. Not saying that because I do DIY, but shops should not be charging you that much. These aren't performance parts (no need for a performance shop), just buy the OE stuff on your own and find a reputable shop. At the very least find a shop that isn't gouging you so badly on the parts. That's crazy. The other shop also quoted me $200 on the bushings, for that much I can get the complete control arm kit from FCP. Where exactly are you in the bay area? Any recommendations for a shop?
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Sep 24, 2011 00:02
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I'm next door to San Francisco. I DIY so unfortunately I can't provide any recommendations, but yes, they are ripping you a new one. Performance shops in general will do that to you, so I would recommend at the very least avoiding those. I would look for a small independent BMW shop, and if not that, at least a shop with good reviews on Yelp. These aren't difficult cars to work on so any capable shop should be able to take care of you.
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Sep 24, 2011 00:22
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BlackMK4 posted:I would imagine that the overlap of people who would spend $600 for a set of wheels versus $4000-$8000 for a set of wheels is very small, especially when you're dealing with cars worth $5-15k. Used factory wheels look better than fake 3 piece reps(those bolts are fake for fucks sake, how do you not hate that? plus BMW makes a crapton of different styles that people get rid of on the cheap), and there are plenty of other wheel manufactures that make cheaper priced wheels that are not reps and are not of questionable quality. Also used BBS LMs are fairly reasonable. I'd argue it hurts BBS more for there to be demand for reps rather than demand for used parts.
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Sep 24, 2011 00:27
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Fake multipiece wheels are ugly as hell, but I'm also not the one buying them. 
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Sep 24, 2011 00:31
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FFFffuuuuuuuuuuu   I mean it's 180k on this seat, and all the rest of the seats are fantastic, but I'm still super sadface about it. It's about 2" long, and I'm worried about it getting longer. What can I do outside of duct-tape to prevent it from ripping further. Also, from what I remember, it's insanely expensive to re-leather a seat right? Basically not an option?
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Sep 24, 2011 02:34
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Leather unfortunately is not cheap to replace, so unless you have boatloads of money, or access to a good leather restore/upholstery guy, it's not really worth it. You might be able to find a used seat cover replacement or a used seat itself. I would look into some of those liquid leather repair kits. You might be able to do some kind of decent enough job with it, just don't go overboard when applying it.
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Sep 24, 2011 03:49
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Any New England BMW goons going to the Bav Auto get together on the 2nd? It starts really early but they have a lot of cars show up
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Sep 24, 2011 04:26
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Nodoze posted:Any New England BMW goons going to the Bav Auto get together on the 2nd? It starts really early but they have a lot of cars show up Have a link? Couldn't find an event for Bavarian Auto on Google. What's the model range that shows up look like? I was planning to go to this tomorrow, pending good weather: http://www.larzanderson.org/Topics/Topic.cfm?TopicName=Show%20Event&CalendarEventId=162 e: no one go to mine - it got canceled. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 05:50
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kimbo305 posted:Have a link? Couldn't find an event for Bavarian Auto on Google. What's the model range that shows up look like? http://www.bavauto.com/shop.asp?HC1=0&HTarget=sc_ssinfo.asp&HCY=&HCM=
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Sep 24, 2011 06:10
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dreggory posted:I'm taking a look at this guy later tonight: http://www.imagebam.com/gallery/am8thg1aqb1bdqzfmhllrdn7asxnk3by Follow-up: I went and drove the thing last night. Talked to the owner for quite a while, turns out he's a total BMW nut with 5 cars in the various states of repair, including a 635 Csi and a gorgeous E30 M3 in the middle of an engine swap. Piles of tires and parts shipments everywhere. It was impressive. He was told by the PO that the timing belt had been done 'very recently' but there was no paperwork on it so he assumed it hadn't been touched. The car drives great, though, nothing horrible manifested itself in the test drive. The steering feels a little slack and the shifter bushings are pretty much gone, and he mentioned a few other spots where the rubber was just old and needing replacement. So it needs some work, but nothing I haven't touched before. I think his price is high for the condition of the car, but it remains to be seen how much he's willing to budge. If I can get a decent deal on it I wouldn't mind putting in the extra work this'll need. Question is, what's a decent deal for this?
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Sep 24, 2011 16:21
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dreggory posted:Question is, what's a decent deal for this? Well, the saying goes.. how much do you really want this car? Some one thinks it maybe worth 2500 and another may say 1000. Best bet is go with how your gut feels about it. Personally, a running e30 that doesn't need a but-load of work? 1700-2000.
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Sep 24, 2011 17:24
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I think prices in my area a higher than most, but I'd pay up to about $3500 for that 325. I'd say that converts to about $2500-2750 in your market.
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Sep 24, 2011 18:14
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Bank posted:Leather unfortunately is not cheap to replace, so unless you have boatloads of money, or access to a good leather restore/upholstery guy, it's not really worth it. You might be able to find a used seat cover replacement or a used seat itself. I hadn't even heard about the liquid leather stuff, but it's cheap and I figure I'm always sitting on it. I just want to prevent it from getting worse. Thanks for the tip!
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Sep 24, 2011 19:01
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Well, the saying goes.. how much do you really want this car? Some one thinks it maybe worth 2500 and another may say 1000. Best bet is go with how your gut feels about it. Personally, a running e30 that doesn't need a but-load of work? 1700-2000. Cool, that's about what I was thinking I *would* pay for it, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't way off track. As for how much I want it...well, last week I remember thinking 'man, I'd love to find a mechanically decent black 325 with a rough exterior that I wouldn't mind playing around with.' This listing showed up the next day. Also, first time driving an E30. I now see why people love the things.
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Sep 24, 2011 19:47
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e: nevermind
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 19:57
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I was looking at e36 M3s, but everything that I felt was fairly priced was generally a poo poo can. Anything halfway maintained in this area was pretty overpriced (imo). Anyway, I've always liked e30s as well, so I've test driven a few in the area. I think if I could get one in decent condition for a good price I'd enjoy the crap out of it, which leads me to this: http://www.autobase.com/cgi/info.exe?bc=11063169&dealer=FNFLEET The cons: 260k, the stock radio harness has been cut, the driver's seat is off track, if not shot, two window switches that don't go up (the door swtiches all work though), two holes in the trunk (that have been filled with plastic interior plugs) indicative of a changed spoiler, a crappy alarm, it's missing the driver's side lock cylinder, horrible looking wheels, and a bit of unsteadiness in the front at speed that I think is indicative of a slight misalignment and/or a few front bushings in need of replacement. No records, of course. And finally, I "think" it has the "bad" head studs (they look like allen wrench, but in reverse), but my understanding was that cars with the bad studs didn't last this long? The pros: The engine pulls strong and throughout the power band, and checks out via visual inspection. The dash and interior are pretty good and the body, with the body is straight and good with the exception of needing new kidneys. They're asking $3k, I offered $2k and was told they "paid 2,400", insinuating the was the bottom price. The issues it has (with the head bolts being a possible exception) are all relatively easily dealt with or fixable, and I'd also plan on doing the timing belt, water pump and oil pump just to be sure. I found an IS rear end with LSD locally for cheap so that'd get installed too. It seems like it could be a fun project car and I'd spend this winter fixing it's issues, bringing it up to date on maintenance and having fun wrenching overall. I have to admit that I'm relatively new to BMWs though, what do you all think?
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Sep 25, 2011 00:02
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So, what am I as a moderate-enthusiast-newbie suppose to tell all my friend when claim I'm an idiot for wanting a manual-RWD car in a place it snows? I already brought up that plenty of Mercs, Lexuses have RWD as standard but I've driven RWD on snow and I never felt it was oh-so-horrible.
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Sep 25, 2011 00:05
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Mat_Drinks posted:I was looking at e36 M3s, but everything that I felt was fairly priced was generally a poo poo can. Anything halfway maintained in this area was pretty overpriced (imo). I would pass on that car unless you could get it for far less than they're asking. For $3k, you should be able to find a relatively clean E30 with 150-200k on the dial.
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Sep 25, 2011 00:11
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Tab8715 posted:So, what am I as a moderate-enthusiast-newbie suppose to tell all my friend when claim I'm an idiot for wanting a manual-RWD car in a place it snows? Buy winter tires, go practice a couple times when it snows and not worry about the snow. I've driven my 325is and 318i in Iowa(where we get plenty of snow) for the past 5 years without issue as long as I kept my revs up and didn't stop. Also, you NEED winter tires.
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Sep 25, 2011 00:12
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