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Thanks  You know, for a reasonably well-selling car, I had a hell of a time getting our replacement stereo to fit. The adapter plate was like 1/8" too tall, so after trying a few others I read might fit, I ended up dremeling the faceplate down that much. It fits pretty well, but I also had to shear off most of the holding tabs to get it in there. It's a shame the space wasn't juuuust a bit bigger, so a double-DIN size would fit.
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Sep 20, 2011 12:50
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Fantastipotamus posted:Thanks Remove the cup holder?
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Sep 21, 2011 10:54
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Maybe someone can help me out with this issue - My '95 NG900 SE Turbo convertible had a bad (Garrett T25) turbo, (massive shaft play, clouds of expensive synthetic smoke following me around) so I replaced it with a good turbo I bought off craigslist. The new turbo came with a forge wastegate actuator on it. I swapped the turbos, the new turbo doesn't smoke, boosts fine, but there is an issue. When I hit full boost according to the apc gauge on the dash, the car sometimes jerks around horribly, like it's missing. Now - I know the diverter valve is bad, since it makes a honking noise when I lift the throttle suddenly under boost, but could that be causing the "miss?"
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Sep 21, 2011 13:54
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I guess either a sticky valve or a split in a boost-side hose could gently caress up the mixture? Make it run rich?
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Sep 21, 2011 20:35
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Mine started doing that when the MAF was going out. Tried to clean it, but never could get it to work quite right. Noticed that, and the smell that it was getting 'rich'. BTW, we're still here (motherbitches).
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Sep 21, 2011 22:20
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Faerunner posted:Remove the cup holder?
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Sep 22, 2011 00:59
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ACEofsnett posted:Maybe someone can help me out with this issue - My '95 NG900 SE Turbo convertible had a bad (Garrett T25) turbo, (massive shaft play, clouds of expensive synthetic smoke following me around) so I replaced it with a good turbo I bought off craigslist. The new turbo came with a forge wastegate actuator on it. I swapped the turbos, the new turbo doesn't smoke, boosts fine, but there is an issue. Are you running a tune? If you are running the stock software the aftermarket wastegate actuator could have the rod cranked way up to increase the base boost past the stock fuel cut. I can tell you now its not your MAF sensor, because the NG900/OG9-3 didn't come with one until SAAB switched to Trionic 7.
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Sep 23, 2011 19:48
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localized posted:Are you running a tune? If you are running the stock software the aftermarket wastegate actuator could have the rod cranked way up to increase the base boost past the stock fuel cut. I can tell you now its not your MAF sensor, because the NG900/OG9-3 didn't come with one until SAAB switched to Trionic 7. What about Trionic 5.5, or am I screwing up thinking that 5.5 was in NG900?
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Sep 24, 2011 18:14
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Viggen posted:What about Trionic 5.5, or am I screwing up thinking that 5.5 was in NG900? Trionic before 7 uses a MAP instead of a MAF.
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Sep 24, 2011 22:29
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astropika posted:Trionic before 7 uses a MAP instead of a MAF. D'oh. For some reason I thought 5.5 was MAF. Anyone with access - can you get into IRIS? Been hearing a lot of in-shop issues for getting warranty status and parts. 
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Sep 25, 2011 16:07
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Karl Barks posted:I need to get the suspension mount,o2 sensor, antenna(it no longer rises when I turn on the car), brake pads, and tires replaced. Brake pads and tires I was just going to go to NTB place on Mass Ave in Cambridge. I've already purchased the mount and the o2 sensor, and I replaced the SID myself(not exactly the most difficult thing in the world). I'd do most of this myself but have no time. Not sure what car you have, but if the antenna is like on my '99 9-3 then it is pretty simple to fix. Either the motor crapped out, the antenna is simply stuck, or the white nylon band that moves it up/down has broken off. Neither should take you more than an hour and fairly basic tools. I bought the antenna mast for like 15 bucks and did it in the driveway. By the way, anyone know if a B235R head will just bolt onto a B234 shortblock?
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Sep 25, 2011 21:48
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So I went and checked out the red 1987 900S coupe. It had no rust anywhere, the engine seemed strong, and the paint was in great condition for 24 years old. Also had brand new tires and what felt like new brakes/rotors. It also had the factory toolkit in the back, which they both seemed very excited about. Wasn't sure if that was worth being excited over. No cracks in the dash, clutch seemed fine. Sun roof was still working tremendously, which amazed me. It was also one owner before these people owned it, and they said they basically never drove it since they bought it. I saw the following issues: AC unit was either out of the car, or broken. They told me when the mechanic was putting the battery back in he accidentally cut some piping. Headliner and cloth on doors was completely hosed, falling off all over the place. Equalizer seemed to be dead, and the radio needed to have it's code put in. I'm assuming this had to do with the battery being removed. 134,000 miles  This is the main bad point for me.Driver side window motor seemed to be dying. Rolling it up was very slow and it seemed to be struggling. They want $5,000 for it which is obviously insane. They were a very nice couple though, so I don't want to completely low ball them at $3,500. Should I stay away and continue my search elsewhere? Karl Barks fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 16:43
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Clayton Bigsby posted:By the way, anyone know if a B235R head will just bolt onto a B234 shortblock? Yeah, but you'll need to use a T5 HG. Otherwise you'll reuse most of the stuff from the 9-5 (turbo, head, manifolds, sump, timing cover). Karl Barks posted:So I went and checked out the red 1987 900S coupe. What's wrong with 130k? It's a 900S, so it's going to last longer than the turbo counterpart. The price, though, no way. This may be a used car sellers' market, but that's pretty crazy-priced. What do you want with the 87? I'm probably selling my '89 shortly, and it's almost 130k, but tranny and engine rebuilds were under 20k ago.
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Sep 26, 2011 16:49
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That was a typo, it is a turbo. This is the ad: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/2607839076.html I'm looking for a pre-1994 manual turbo, and this car has been the closest one I've found to fitting that bill and not having any rust.
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Sep 26, 2011 16:54
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Karl Barks posted:I'm looking for a pre-1994 manual turbo, and this car has been the closest one I've found to fitting that bill and not having any rust. Isn't everybody? I've got the 89, but it has the awful 3 speed auto, and I'd rather make it someone else's project to stuck the 5 speed into - that's just too much work for me for something I don't intend to keep. Check the central-northwestern states: California, Arizona, Nevada, Oregon. Arizona would be the best. $5k for that car is a bit excessive. If you only want a pre-94, don't forget about the 9000.
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Sep 26, 2011 17:37
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localized posted:Are you running a tune? If you are running the stock software the aftermarket wastegate actuator could have the rod cranked way up to increase the base boost past the stock fuel cut. I can tell you now its not your MAF sensor, because the NG900/OG9-3 didn't come with one until SAAB switched to Trionic 7. No, the car is running the stock tune. This makes perfect sense, actually. Would it be better to put the stock actuator from the original turbo on, or simply adjust the forge one back? The ideal scenario is to get the car tuned, of course. I've heard of a gentleman here in Connecticut who will do it for a hundred bucks cash. That may be the way to go.
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Sep 26, 2011 20:21
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Viggen posted:Yeah, but you'll need to use a T5 HG. Otherwise you'll reuse most of the stuff from the 9-5 (turbo, head, manifolds, sump, timing cover). Thanks. A "race prepped" T5 shortblock is not too expensive around here so it is tempting to swap one in so I can throw a little more power in there without worrying about that part. Seems like the T7 is not really built to hold up as well.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:01
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Seems like the T7 is not really built to hold up as well. I see that statement a lot, but not with much to back it up. It'd be fun and a bit of a challenge, but I gave up when my B234L tried to grenade itself by throwing the balancer when going uphill under a LIGHT load. I've NEVER seen one wear out before. V  VI also need to get more familiar w/ T5. LH 2.4.x, and T7 aren't bad, but I'm evidently still loving clueless about a lot of T5 stuff. What can I say? I love my sludgers.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:08
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Viggen posted:I see that statement a lot, but not with much to back it up. It'd be fun and a bit of a challenge, but I gave up when my B234L tried to grenade itself by throwing the balancer when going uphill under a LIGHT load. I've NEVER seen one wear out before. V Well, not evidence, but e.g. Maptun (big Saab tuner here) will sell you kits to get 430hp on a T5 engine while keeping the stock internals, but insist on you putting in forged pistons before going much past 300hp on the T7. From chatting with some of the local Saab nuts, seems the pistons do have a tendency to give up the ghost early on on the T7, while a T5 will often go past 500 ponies without any major surgery.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:32
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Well, not evidence, but e.g. Maptun (big Saab tuner here) will sell you kits to get 430hp on a T5 engine while keeping the stock internals, but insist on you putting in forged pistons before going much past 300hp on the T7. Everyone loves the old pistons, and there are many claims that the ones in LPT are inferior, but when asked to prove it, nobody's been able to - yet. Even B235E vs B235R, there is speculation, but parts numbers and basic 'not going to kill it to find out' is all that's been done to my knowledge. Plus T5 has had several good years, and early T7s liked to either suck too much, or too little oil depending on PCV level installed, amongst other known issues. Who the hell wants it coming back to "their tune" being the killer? Nobody. I'm still pissed that we can't get Hirsch tuning for pre-2010 9-5s here in the colonies.
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Sep 26, 2011 21:35
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Not sure what car you have, but if the antenna is like on my '99 9-3 then it is pretty simple to fix. Either the motor crapped out, the antenna is simply stuck, or the white nylon band that moves it up/down has broken off. Neither should take you more than an hour and fairly basic tools. I bought the antenna mast for like 15 bucks and did it in the driveway. Depending on how badly it's broken, you might need a helper to help you spool the cable in on key-on. Here's a partial write-up I did: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3232133&userid=118079#post380404718
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Sep 27, 2011 07:09
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Anyone near Sacramento want an NG900 with a random CEL?Craigslist posted:This car is very clean. Runs and drives great. Low miles. Check  Looks nice, but, gee, it could just be new DI time, or entire car could be shot. Only $1750, though!
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Sep 27, 2011 19:06
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Viggen posted:Everyone loves the old pistons, and there are many claims that the ones in LPT are inferior, but when asked to prove it, nobody's been able to - yet. Even B235E vs B235R, there is speculation, but parts numbers and basic 'not going to kill it to find out' is all that's been done to my knowledge. Well, there is some empirical evidence in that some 9-5 owners have toasted their engines, but I agree that there is no certainty as to the cause. I did take the beast to a local tuner today (who previously spent 14 years a a Saab mechanic before going independent), and he thought that the hesitating under high load and boost was most likely the crank sensor, which can cause weird poo poo like this without setting any codes. So will swap that one next. Also asked him about putting a few more ponies in the car and he said that based on his experience he would not go past a "stage 3" type setup, that being a turboback with racecat, fuel pressure regulator, cold air intake, and a tune. Should yield around 285hp so not a big peak gain but will unleash a lot of midrange which is what makes the car fun anyway. Past that he said pistons and clutch are going to be the limiting factor.
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Sep 30, 2011 17:16
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Past that he said pistons and clutch are going to be the limiting factor. Know of a guy on FB who is mating a 2.3/B202 monstrosity, and yep, of course it's going to be carb'd. Had some hellacious built pistons and a strong lightweight clutch. Of course, that's only rated to do something silly like 158 w/ 20psi. I dunno about some SAAB folks.
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Oct 1, 2011 00:21
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 Found the nearly-there 180k for the 2K 9-5. Guess it was on my iPhone, or my phone that got washed. Finally got the SDHC working that was in that droid. Forget why this one was taken; I think I was having issues getting it to autofocus. Out of a smart-rear end comment a friend made, I came up with the following: The distance from the earth to the moon is approximated at 238,857 miles. The 1989 900T is 107,750 miles away from the moon, and has 215 years to go at current rate of milage. The 1991 9000 made it to the moon, but crashed on it. The 2000 9-5 is 58,000 miles from the moon, and has 3 years to go at current rate of milage. The 2001 9-3 is 138,500 miles from the moon and has 5 years to go at current rate of milage. The 2008 9-5 is 230,000 miles from the moon, and has 78 years to go at current rate of milage. Talk about disproportionate. poo poo. Edit: Sat: Did my first C900 oil change. It took 1/2 hour including the prewarm+drive. So drat easy - I didn't even need ramps. Just a 13mm socket, a crush washer, 4.1 quarts of dino sauce, and a filter. Viggen fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 6, 2011 22:26
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I would like to make an addendum to this thread that really should be in the OP. Never should you consider a Saab fixed, a Saab can only be temporarily repaired. Saabs are as temperamental as a 1 year old while teething. You love the car while everything is taken care of, then 4 weeks after your previous fix, something else goes and there goes the obscenities. The pie chart for swearing as per activity should have equal shares of Mario Kart and Saab breaking again.
keykey fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 02:45
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Or, "So, what happened to your car now?" I've discovered that although I assumed I had a updated-and-revised 8711871 plug in the C900, I do not, and the pitch is wrong for a 9132929. I don't see it being a tap job, either. It looks very uniform and cast, so, perhaps the whole drat thing was replaced when the engine and tranny were done about 20k ago. Viggen fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 02:56
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keykey posted:I would like to make an addendum to this thread that really should be in the OP. Never should you consider a Saab fixed, a Saab can only be temporarily repaired. Saabs are as temperamental as a 1 year old while teething. You love the car while everything is taken care of, then 4 weeks after your previous fix, something else goes and there goes the obscenities. The pie chart for swearing as per activity should have equal shares of Mario Kart and Saab breaking again.
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Oct 10, 2011 03:15
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Viggen posted:Or, "So, what happened to your car now?" Broken rear window regulator I really wish it were a roller again, those aren't a bitch and a half to replace. A month ago, I replaced a window roller in the passenger front, the month before that, fixed the SID.. Again.. The month before that, intermittent brake light, the month before that.. You get the idea. How 'bout the rest of you, what have 3 things have you fixed in the past 90 days?
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Oct 10, 2011 04:31
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keykey posted:Broken rear window regulator I really wish it were a roller again, those aren't a bitch and a half to replace. A month ago, I replaced a window roller in the passenger front, the month before that, fixed the SID.. Again.. The month before that, intermittent brake light, the month before that.. You get the idea. How 'bout the rest of you, what have 3 things have you fixed in the past 90 days? Jesus that's depressingly accurate. Lets see. Most of this I consider 'basic maintenance', so I think I'm except from the 'still sane saab owner' group: 1989 900T (B202L): Oil, Filter Smog/Registration Plugs refresh, wire check, distrib check. New OEM foglamps + lenses Complete detailing inside and out Minor repair on several splits on dash. Rustoleum Hi-Temp rattlecan "repair" of several bits of 'exposed metal but oddly not rusty' for body accessories (metal plate adapters for US plates, screws, etc) scrub and cleanup - paint of very, very ugly exhaust. Scrub, repaint bits of exposed - but not yet rusty metal in engine compartment New Battery - it was def near DOA, but I tried to give it a shot, then saw it weeping blue tears the next week. Also minor painting inside of engine compartment. New vacuum lines near the oil filter - loving local chipmunk nested in it within a week. 1991 9000T (B234R): Gave up on it, parted out. Good riddance ya gently caress! (had electrical issues, master clutch was going out, slave flakey. master brake going out, bad idm, and engine decided to start trying to grenade itself by throwing the balance shaft inwards. Also had phantom drain, some really messed up issues with the brakes, and other joy. 2000 9-5 (B235E): IDM started throwing misfire codes. Replaced, after spark plug replacement (not much more expensive) B&B reman'd SID2 speaker went out. Got replaced under (former?) 2 year warranty. However, it's kicked over 180k, and is still going strong 2001 9-3 (B235R): Time to replace the front brakes. Rear ones, too. Oh, and yes, the basic oil/etc. 2008 9-5 (B235R): Basic maint. 6 speed flappypaddle is starting to weep a little. Concern vs Warranty Remaining: Very High Viggen fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 05:39
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Our only current issue beyond needing to get around to replacing the rear brakes (Really, really need to...) is that brake booster line keeps coming undone, even with a clamp on it. It seems to be too short. Other than that it's running like a champ, if a bit thirsty.
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Oct 10, 2011 08:59
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Yay, my first "low coolant level" warning on my 95 Ng900! Now I get warnings stacked three deep, that being right behind "Check soft top" and "Check latches." I assume the coolant lines on my recently replaced turbo are leaking. Anyone know what the part numbers for the rubber lined washers are? Is there a Saab site similar to realoem for BMW parts?
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Oct 12, 2011 14:19
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ACEofsnett posted:Yay, my first "low coolant level" warning on my 95 Ng900! Now I get warnings stacked three deep, that being right behind "Check soft top" and "Check latches." I assume the coolant lines on my recently replaced turbo are leaking. Anyone know what the part numbers for the rubber lined washers are? Is there a Saab site similar to realoem for BMW parts? You've got the trifecta right there. That's a Saab Bingo! Since some docs are sparse (I only have limited (1998-2007) 9-3 and 9-5 data again, I usually check TheSaabSite for part numbers, and then head over to Jim Ellis for diagrams. Is it actually dropping at a discernible rate? They all have a little 'drop' as weather changes between warm and cold.
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Oct 12, 2011 16:23
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Viggen posted:You've got the trifecta right there. That's a Saab Bingo! I only just got the warning this morning. The reservoir wasn't empty, in fact it was at the cold line once the engine warmed up. I did notice a bit of a coolant smell under the hood after my half hour drive to work. I've replaced both the water pump and the turbo in the last year, so it could be either one leaking. I already had the brand new seal on the water pump outlet fail once, so I'm thinking that's the culprit. I can pull the power steering pump / bracket, serpentine belt and water pump in like an hour now, I've done it so many times. Thanks for the links, although the washers aren't listed, I'll be ordering a new exhaust manifold stud, (I broke one pulling the turbo) gasket and turbo to manifold gasket.
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Oct 12, 2011 17:11
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ACEofsnett posted:I can pull the power steering pump / bracket, serpentine belt and water pump in like an hour now, I've done it so many times. Thanks for the links, although the washers aren't listed, I'll be ordering a new exhaust manifold stud, (I broke one pulling the turbo) gasket and turbo to manifold gasket. I couldn't find them, either, and I'm now 1:1 for asking a buddy for help with NG900 stuff that doesn't 1:1 parallel OG9-3, so I didn't want to call in a favor for a washer Do all of the studs at once. Trust me on this. Get ready to drill the fuckers out, too. You won't only have the one broken by the end of the day, unless you're very, very careful/lucky. Unless you're actually SEEING it (and unless you burped it properly), there is a minute amount that does drop. My 2K 9-5 did exactly the same thing once in 2009 after I had flushed the whole thing after a turbo replacement. I looked all over, pressure tested, topped off, and it's been fine since, even if it is about time to flush again. v  v
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Oct 12, 2011 17:16
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The Saabs days may be numbered. The beginning of next year, my wife is going to school 80 miles round trip so she's going to be taking my car (Jetta TDI) and I will be switching over to the 9-5 wagon. I've been eyeing BMW 745Li's for the past few months as a switch of daily driver anyway since I only go 6 miles round trip to work and back including dropping the kids off and picking them up from school. What do I do Saab guys?!? 
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Oct 13, 2011 22:04
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keykey posted:What do I do Saab guys?!? Buy a classic 1979 GLE, and pamper it all the way there, and back, every day. Make sure to carry additives, hose, et al.. E: 
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Oct 14, 2011 00:59
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keykey posted:The Saabs days may be numbered. The beginning of next year, my wife is going to school 80 miles round trip so she's going to be taking my car (Jetta TDI) and I will be switching over to the 9-5 wagon. I've been eyeing BMW 745Li's for the past few months as a switch of daily driver anyway since I only go 6 miles round trip to work and back including dropping the kids off and picking them up from school. What do I do Saab guys?!? You complain about saab reliability and you want to buy a second hand 7 series?!
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Oct 14, 2011 04:55
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astropika posted:You complain about saab reliability and you want to buy a second hand 7 series?! True that, however the one I'm looking at belongs to a friend of mine that's 70 and just bought a new one since he recently retired. He's the original owner and the one he has only has 45k miles on it, mostly freeway since he used it as an occasional car when he drove out of town to give lectures in his field.
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Oct 14, 2011 17:12
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keykey posted:True that, however the one I'm looking at belongs to a friend of mine that's 70 and just bought a new one since he recently retired. He's the original owner and the one he has only has 45k miles on it, mostly freeway since he used it as an occasional car when he drove out of town to give lectures in his field. I still stick by the GLE for reliability. Also, got these today:  Ugly? Sure. Center caps? Check. Nicer than mine on the 2000 9-5, too (even if not generationally correct). Tires/Tread? P6s with 50% tread left. Price? $50. Even came with a complete set of spare lugs.
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Oct 19, 2011 06:35
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