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GOATSE SOUP posted:welp. Somehow managed to thread my gas cap wrong or something. Ended up doing this. Any suggestions? Other than take some pliers to it when its light out and I can see what I'm doing? I don't know how it all fits together, but could some carefully placed super glue work?
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Sep 27, 2011 15:57
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BrokenKnucklez posted:
Oh my god. I want one. I just know it'll be expensive but I want one. EDIT: I have a ton of organs I don't really use, maybe I can trade them. Hmmm shut up blegum fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 16:35
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BlackMK4 posted:What leaks on the E46 if you don't have a sunroof? Every time it rains there is water on my passenger floormat. Another vote for the gutters, but also, if you've recently done anything to the door, like fix an regulator or something, if the vapor barrier or whatever its called wasn't resealed real well, this can cause some significant leaks inside as well...
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Sep 27, 2011 18:02
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I agree to a point, but I think they were the transition from sharks to the modern cars of now. I'm an E30 lover at heart, but I will have an E28 M5 someday. And and E30 M3.
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Sep 27, 2011 18:39
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I replaced my cooling system this last weekend. Afterwards I checked for leaks and everything looked good. I have been checking the coolant level every few days just to make sure there are no leaks. I checked the level today and it has gone down from where I remember topping it off to when I replaced the cooling system. Do I have a slow leak? Or is this just the coolant level dropping because of use?
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Sep 27, 2011 18:50
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Could have worked some air out, maybe? Top it off and check for puddles, but if it keeps going down there is probably a leak somewhere.
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Sep 27, 2011 18:56
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TopGear posted an overview of the history of M cars. Pretty pictures yay! http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/bmw-m-cars-history-gallery-2011-09-23?imageNo=0
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Sep 27, 2011 19:03
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timma85 posted:I replaced my cooling system this last weekend. Afterwards I checked for leaks and everything looked good. I have been checking the coolant level every few days just to make sure there are no leaks. I checked the level today and it has gone down from where I remember topping it off to when I replaced the cooling system. Do I have a slow leak? Or is this just the coolant level dropping because of use? Do yourself a favor and clean the splash shield until you can eat off of it. Drive it around for 30 minutes, take it home, then check the splash shield for coolant. If it's leaking, you will see it.
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Sep 27, 2011 19:11
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an oddly awful oud posted:Are those clips that bad to fix? At least one of mine is broken and I suspect it's the source of a persistent rattle in the cabin. The clips are not sold separately and the gutter is only sold as a complete unit. My driver's side rear bit only has one good clip and falls off regularly when opening the door, but replacing the entire gutter is out of the question just for that.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:41
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My 1999 M3 check engine light turns on during "high speed cornering". What's up? At first, I thought it was because my gas was low but I just filled up and noticed the light turned on again when I took a 90' left turn in 2nd gear around 4000 RPM going about 35 mph. I also thought it was because I was taking some turns in 3rd gear and the RPM would dip to about 1500RPM, so I stopped doing that. I don't hear any engine misfiring or obviously weird noises during the CEL being on. Wiring short? This also happened on the cloverleaf on-ramp onto the highway in 3rd gear at 40mph maybe like 3200rpm so it's definitely not ABS sensor since I wasn't on the brakes. The car has 63K miles (I've had it for 800 miles now) and had Inspection II at 56K miles. I guess I should attack the O2 sensors first, but what else could be the problem? I plan to hit up the auto zone to check the engine codes, but if the light isn't on, is there even any point to that? I know I need to change the oil as well (even though the minder is still yellow, but it's been raining non-stop!) voltron fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Sep 28, 2011 |
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Sep 28, 2011 02:30
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Could be oil pressure warning. Does the e36 m3 have a baffled oil pan? If not your oil pump could be having a hard time getting oil if it's sloshing over to one side in your sump, and this could particularly be a problem if you're low on oil as well.
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Sep 28, 2011 02:47
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I hope this doesn't stray into 'recommend me a car' territory, but a older guy I work with is selling his 2003 M5. He says he wants $20k for it. It has 60k miles and seems to be in otherwise great condition. The guy who owns it is a very nice guy and would have taken very good care of the car. Not sure when he bought it. This seems like a pretty good deal, but wanted to see what the regulars here thought and if you guys had any suggestions on what to look for or if this model has any problems past 60k. How many miles can I expect to get out of it, assuming I keep it well maintained? Any good talking points to help convince MY WIFE it's a good deal?
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Sep 28, 2011 02:54
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Prefect Six posted:How many miles can I expect to get out of it, assuming I keep it well maintained? Any good talking points to help convince MY WIFE it's a good deal? You will get unlimited miles out of any thing. All it takes is money. Oh and your wife will be more than thrilled about the idea of an oil change running north of 100 bucks. Unless she is a serious car nut, do not try to convince her other wise. I tried it with my ex, it never worked. On the other hand you can pick up a clean 540i for about 5k less, get a stupid huge smile on your face and still justify owning one. Just don't drive an M5 before it or else it will feel like a giant let down. Oh and when you said quote:The guy who owns it is a very nice guy and would have taken very good care of the car. Not sure when he bought it. Edit: I is retard. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Sep 28, 2011 |
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Sep 28, 2011 03:02
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Prefect Six posted:I hope this doesn't stray into 'recommend me a car' territory, but a older guy I work with is selling his 2003 M5. He says he wants $20k for it. It has 60k miles and seems to be in otherwise great condition. The guy who owns it is a very nice guy and would have taken very good care of the car. Not sure when he bought it. 20k isn't really that great of a price for an M5 with 60k miles. Try M5board.com if you want to do some more research, but keep in mind that the S62 is a high strung german V8 that requires lots of care.
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Sep 28, 2011 03:45
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Prefect Six posted:I hope this doesn't stray into 'recommend me a car' territory, but a older guy I work with is selling his 2003 M5. He says he wants $20k for it. It has 60k miles and seems to be in otherwise great condition. The guy who owns it is a very nice guy and would have taken very good care of the car. Not sure when he bought it. Keep in mind that between 60k and 100k miles, virtually every wear item in the car is going to come due for replacement, no matter how well it has been maintained before. Not just small things like brake pads, but big things like shocks, springs and all the bushings in your suspension. Also, the clutch is likely due for replacement (IIRC, the E39 M5's clutch is good for only 80-100k miles). If you can do most of the work yourself, you'll save a lot of money, but understand you'd be paying a lot of M-Tax on the parts too.
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Sep 28, 2011 04:47
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E60 Transmission Woes: So after a month or so of getting a transmission failsafe warning which locks me to 4th gear which would go away most times I restarted the car - I decided to take some action about it. I read a lot of mixed reports on the boards about the shift knob being in an intermediate position (the previous owner of my car decided to litter the area - I've personally recovered earings, bent coins, and yes, 2 mancala beads), battery issues, etc - but nothing that left me with an answer. I took it to my indie shop and we collectively scratched our heads and just changed the ATF & pan w/ filter last week but I had a few failsafes again. I took it to the dealer today who ran their diagnostic and came up with 'replace transmission' without much thought. They said they couldn't do anymore than that. The funny thing is that the transmission isn't really acting funny otherwise (a few harder-than-normal shifts, never really seeking a gear) and the failsafes don't come with any specific pattern. For a car a 2004 530i w/ 120K miles in otherwise good condition, I'm left with a few options: PICK YOUR OWN ADVENTURE TIME 1. Keep driving! Maybe something will break and that'll help figure it out. 2. Sell! Sell! Sell! just sell it for ~ $14-15K and move back to Japanese cars... 3. I found a tranny nearby with 60K miles for $1K. Have someone replace it. 4. Give it to a tranny shop and let them mull over it. Dealer said ZF doesn't make repair kits so I don't know if this is an option. 5. Fork over $5K for a rebuilt tranny at the dealership (lol) I'm pretty split between #1 and #2, though tempted on #1. I just replaced all the rotors so...eh, I might as well drive it a bit longer? guidoanselmi fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 21:59
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guidoanselmi posted:E60 Transmission Woes: I know this sounds really off the wall... Have you checked your alternator or battery? These cars are super sensitive to voltage variations, and the auto boxes like to freak out for no reason if the voltages are not in spec. If your saying that the transmission isn't hunting or no abnormal shifts, I doubt its dead in the water just yet. Just get those both tested, its cheap/free and could eliminate an issue. Did the fluid look abnormal when you changed it? Also, see if they can "reset" the computer, these transmissions learn driving patterns, and it might be worth a reset. The ZF isn't terrible but it is no 727 Torqueflite. Edit: vvv check the wiring harness. But seriously, you will hate your life going from BMW to an econobox. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 22:25
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Oh, it's not off the wall at all. I got a new aftermarket battery earlier in the year (admittedly before these problems started) - but those seem ok according to my indie shop. The dealership brought it up but when I asked them if they would attribute it as the source of the problem they said no. Oh, I also did reset the memory. Depressing the gas for ~ 30 sec after turning the car on (but not the engine). I don't know how the fluid looked, but the shop said it seemed normal? guidoanselmi fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 22:31
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See if you can find an independent shop that specialises in late model Euros/BMWs. In my experience most non-specialist shops won't have a clue about that type of car, and dealerships will just replace expensive parts without doing any troubleshooting (seems like you've already run into this)
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Sep 30, 2011 00:16
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I have a question for the Halifax BMW owner I'm sure I've seen posting: I just moved here with my 1987 BMW e28. I need some work done, any recommendations on a shop? And/or somewhere to get the MVI done where I won't get ripped off?
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Sep 30, 2011 01:03
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The Amputee House posted:I have a question for the Halifax BMW owner I'm sure I've seen posting: All-Euro Auto run by Darren Tapley. 835-1965, located in bedford. It's out of the way but he really knows his stuff. His prices are good too. For 1400 I got timing belt, accessory belt, valve adjustment, muffler + straps, front exhaust seals, sway bar link, rear shock mounts, front CV boots and RF ABS sensor. There is also Eurowerks if you must have repairs done on the peninsula, 453-9310. They mostly deal in mercedes but I have seen BMWs there. I think their labour is a little more expensive as well. Either shop should be able to do MVIs. If not, Coast tire has been good to me for passing inspections. Whatever you do, DO NOT GO TO HALIFAX BMW. They will gouge the poo poo out of you.
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Sep 30, 2011 01:51
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I have joined your club, Bimmer-people!  My New Bimmer (6 of 10) by Execudork, on Flickr 1996 328is, 5-speed manual 250 000km Accessories include a sunroof  cruise control leather seats and cupholders  I'm very happy.  Question time: OK, it's not perfect (it's 16 years old, of course it's not perfect). The steering wheel squeaks, faintly, when I turn it. It's definately coming from the steering wheel / column inside the car, not from the steering rack or any part of the suspension. It sounds like plastic rubbing on plastic, but I'm thinking taking apart the steering wheel on a vehicle equiped with airbags is a really bad idea. Has anybody else encountered anything like this? It's only mildly annoying, and there's no sensation of friction or looseness when driving. The passenger-side airbag light is illuminated on the dash. The previous owner told me this light comes on after a while if you clear the codes (he left me the OBDII scanner he's been using to do this). Is this most likely some sensor or fuse somewhere that I can easily replace / reset? Or is it a legitimate error in the airbag system? The stereo, while very nice, doesn't have any way for me to attach an MP3 player or a USB device (I'm not sure if it can even play MP3s or not). I want to swap in the stereo from my Prelude. There's an amp in the trunk, how difficult do you think it will be to switch head units? Finally, I have heard rumors about bad things happening if the battery goes completely flat - like not being able to unlock the doors. Is this true? What's a good backup plan in case something like this happens?
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Sep 30, 2011 03:15
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ExecuDork posted:OK, it's not perfect (it's 16 years old, of course it's not perfect). http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245961
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Sep 30, 2011 12:34
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quote:Question time: See the reply above, this is 99% likely to fix your issue. Any good penetrating spray lubricant will do the job. I recommend putting the can in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes to build extra pressure. Also, wear safety glasses. quote:The passenger-side airbag light is illuminated on the dash. The previous owner told me this light comes on after a while if you clear the codes (he left me the OBDII scanner he's been using to do this). Is this most likely some sensor or fuse somewhere that I can easily replace / reset? Or is it a legitimate error in the airbag system? This is also very likely to be a somewhat legitimate error -- the passenger-side seatbelt sensor probably has light corrosion and is triggering an intermittent fault. There are numerous DIYs on the internet for this, but I was able to address my intermittent SRS light with some bulb grease to improve the connection. http://pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-80-Seat-Repair/101-Projects-80-Seat-Repair.htm Basically you pull the seat out of the car, then remove the yellow latch sensor connector and pry it open with a small screwdriver. Once inside, give it a good brushing and cleaning, then spray it with some WD40 or similar water displacing dielectric grease. Reassemble and reinstall the seat, clear the SRS light, and voila, you're done. The corrosion in these is often caused by a previous owner spilling a drink where a tiny bit of corrosion gets into the sensor. Alternately, simply living in a damp or very hot area might be enough, no one is quite sure on the root cause of the failure. Worst case scenario you're out $100 USD or so to replace the whole seatbelt auto-tensioner assembly. quote:Finally, I have heard rumors about bad things happening if the battery goes completely flat - like not being able to unlock the doors. Is this true? What's a good backup plan in case something like this happens? If the battery is old, replace the battery. Other crazy stuff can happen with a bad battery (misfires, accessories freaking out, computer barfing warning lights), and a $150 piece of maintenance every 5 years or so is small potatoes.
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Sep 30, 2011 15:22
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As for the door locks not working, I thought most BMWs since like, the E32 line, had the "manual" way of unlocking... I know on my E32 I was able to like, hold the key all the way in the unlock position while pulling the handle at the same time and it would manually unlock the door. My E46 has a similar manual unlock function as well I believe.
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Sep 30, 2011 16:22
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guidoanselmi posted:Oh, it's not off the wall at all. I got a new aftermarket battery earlier in the year (admittedly before these problems started) - but those seem ok according to my indie shop. If the fluid was good and nothing abnormal, I doubt its the actual transmission itself. Maybe its the "brains" inside the transmission that might be clogged with a piece of shaving or what have you. Edit: might be a solenoid that is making GBS threads the bed?
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Sep 30, 2011 17:26
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Find a BMW shop and have them reset the airbag. When I bought mine it had the light on and it just needed a reset. If not, the machine will at least tell you what needs fixed.
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Sep 30, 2011 22:12
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As an addendum, Halifax BMW claimed I needed a new passenger airbag sensor when my light came on. I promptly bought a peake scan tool, reset the code and it hasn't come back since. I do question the owner saying he checked it with OBDII stuff - SRS is a seperate system and I doubt you could reset it with a code reader.
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Oct 1, 2011 01:51
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Today I learned: If you replace the three quarts of missing fluid in your transmission, your car will shift better. I can't help but feel I am going to pay for this one someday down the road :[
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Oct 1, 2011 01:58
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Beach Bum, Sterndotstern, Fermunky, revmoo, Crustashio posted:Advice One other thing: there's some kind of dark tint on the rear window, it must be peeling or bubbling a little or something because it distorts the view. Is there an easy way to remove this without damaging the defroster wires?
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Oct 1, 2011 06:15
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After some more driving around, I think I figured out it's from 4->3 downshift where the car failsafes. I think that's a good start to take to a tranny shop. Thanks everyone too.
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Oct 1, 2011 18:49
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My interior had been feeling a little humid in the mornings, even though I had let my 1995 323i sit in the sun with the moonroof open a couple of days. So I started digging, and found a pool of water under the rear seat bench  The seat itself was like a nice heavy filled sponge, and the sound insulation mats were soaked of course. Also, the carpets in my trunk was nice and wet, and a jacket and pair of gloves I kept in there was covered in mold!I dried out as much water as I could, and have set the carpets and the seat to dry, so I'm driving around without a rear seat and with no carpets in the trunk. I did check under the floor carpet, but it was completely dry. Anyone have ANY idea of where it could be coming in that would cause it to pool under the seat, but not on the floor? Since I was working on my car anyway, I swapped my taillights from the tinted ones to original ones with amber blinkers, and I ordered amber blinkers for the front and sides from eBay. I'll swap back the original chrome framed kidney grilles when I receive the turn signals and get it all done in one go. My tire pressures were also all over the place. One of the rear shocks in my €199 adjustable suspension kit is shot. ALL my suspension bushings are shot, and noisy and creaky as hell. My exhaust is leaking, which sounds cool on startup, but is killing my horsepower and mileage. I desperately need an oil change. It has 120,000 miles, but has never had any components in the cooling system changed, including water pump and radiator. Oh, the joy of owning an old car 
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Oct 1, 2011 18:54
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So since I replaced my valve cover gaskets and refilled my transmission, as it's running there's periodic but random TICK that I hear now and then. It's not rhythmic or even, it just sort of randomly happens. It's a very short, sharp sound, sounds almost like an electrical arc? The mechanic said it sounded to them like it was coming from the transmission, which seems... weird.
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Oct 1, 2011 20:41
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evobatman posted:I dried out as much water as I could, and have set the carpets and the seat to dry, so I'm driving around without a rear seat and with no carpets in the trunk. I did check under the floor carpet, but it was completely dry. Anyone have ANY idea of where it could be coming in that would cause it to pool under the seat, but not on the floor? Did you check in the spare tyre well for more water? It could well be tail light seals or the seal around the boot - once the spare tyre well fills up it'll run down into the rear seats.
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Oct 1, 2011 22:13
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dissss posted:Did you check in the spare tyre well for more water? That was kinda the freaky part, the spare well and the battery compartment were bone dry! Also, I checked the taillight areas very closely when I replaced them now, no trace of water at all.
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Oct 1, 2011 22:40
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My friend just bought an '86 325es, drove fine on the test drive but after a 200 mile trip home the oil pressure light was coming on at low RPMs. We got it towed back to his house where it sits now. He said that the temp would go up the slower he drove, so I'm guessing the oil pump is on its last legs. Does anyone have a guide for an e30 oil pump replacement? Also should I just check out tischer for the pump or is there a cheaper place for e30 parts? The car is really clean other than this, even just had its cooling system replaced.
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Oct 2, 2011 05:53
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I'm at the bav auto show now, so many slammed cars. I have some pics when I get home
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Oct 2, 2011 15:03
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Nodoze posted:I'm at the bav auto show now, so many slammed cars. I have some pics when I get home tell those fuckers to ship my driveshaft
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Oct 2, 2011 17:26
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I had a bunch of pictures so I just uploaded them to a Flickr set rather than put them all on tinypic. It rained a ton for half the show and was drizzly enough to walk around in between downpours for like 20 minutes at a time. http://www.flickr.com/photos/yanks2435/sets/72157627678037773/ My favorite I think  
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Oct 2, 2011 19:57
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Nodoze posted:I had a bunch of pictures so I just uploaded them to a Flickr set rather than put them all on tinypic. It rained a ton for half the show and was drizzly enough to walk around in between downpours for like 20 minutes at a time.
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Oct 2, 2011 20:42
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