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Empress Minis are supposed to look awesome. I'll let you know in a week or so when mine come in.
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Sep 27, 2011 02:57
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@ Oxford Comma For basing my FoW stuff the operative word is "carefully". My figures are all affixed to their own nail-head so when I'm done painting them I paint the ground color on the edge of their stand. Then using a small flat bladed screwdriver I place a dollup of spackle on the middle of the stand. Then I glue all the figures I can that have their bases against this dollup. Then I continue adding figures and basing material working from the inside of the base outwards until I get to the edge of the base. Hope that helps!
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Sep 27, 2011 06:56
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What are you using for spackle? I have some but even after a day of drying it still comes off very easy.
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Sep 27, 2011 16:01
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Guess who has two thumbs and a copy of Saga?
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Sep 27, 2011 17:38
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Oxford Comma posted:Empress Minis are supposed to look awesome. I'll let you know in a week or so when mine come in. I've got some of the Empress Zulu Wars stuff and the quality is really good.
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Sep 27, 2011 17:59
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Oxford Comma posted:What are you using for spackle? I have some but even after a day of drying it still comes off very easy. I found the Vallejo scenery pastes really useful for basing FoW stands. They are easily workable and can be applied using a small flat blade. Finally the final product is durable and dries dry very solidly, the only downside is they stink to high heaven until dried. here is a link, scroll down to where it says "stone". I used the rough pumice. Speaking of Battlefront, I was really impressed by their handling of the EW British Armoured company situation was impeccable. Not only did they admit an error, they provided a free sticker sheet to amend your old rule book easily. Two thumbs up from me for that one. No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 22:04
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No Pun Intended posted:I found the Vallejo scenery pastes really useful for basing FoW stands. They are easily workable and can be applied using a small flat blade. Finally the final product is durable and dries dry very solidly, the only downside is they stink to high heaven until dried. Does that provide a better result than just using spackle and sand or fine gravel?
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Sep 28, 2011 01:44
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I have never used sand and spackle method however the end result will give you a sand/dirt texture (similar to PVA and sand). What method you use depends on how you want your bases to look like.
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Sep 28, 2011 01:56
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Psychic Fetus posted:I have been a 40k player for some time so I'm really comfortable with that size but id take quality minis over a particular size and im under the impression that 15mm is the standard scale... For 28mm your choices boil down to Foundry, Black Scorpion and Eureka. In my experience BS is the best of those but the Eureka guys aren't bad. But seriously, 1/72 is the way to go. Use pennies for the bases. Assembling two large groups of figures will be around 40 bucks, more if you want technicals and stuff. I'd recommend NOT doing modern first world military. Its OK, but Africa, Middle Eastern Insurgents, and South America (communist revolution era) is much more fun IMHO.
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Sep 28, 2011 10:06
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No Pun Intended posted:I have never used sand and spackle method however the end result will give you a sand/dirt texture (similar to PVA and sand). What method you use depends on how you want your bases to look like. I've got the plastic rubble bases from battlefront and they are quite the thing; http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53&art_id=2654 They don't seem to like lying down MG guys very much, so I use some of the extra bits and bobs on the sprue to fancy up a regular base and get a consistant look.
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Sep 28, 2011 10:54
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I am highly tempted to get a set of those just to base up my Wjotek miniature.....
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Sep 28, 2011 15:39
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El Estrago Bonito posted:For 28mm your choices boil down to Foundry, Black Scorpion and Eureka. In my experience BS is the best of those but the Eureka guys aren't bad. And TAG and Empress and Mongrel and Devil Dog and MoFo. Serotonin fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Sep 28, 2011 |
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Sep 28, 2011 17:43
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Oxford Comma posted:What are you using for spackle? I have some but even after a day of drying it still comes off very easy. I don't even know the brand, its just something generic I picked up at a hardware store. I mixed some extra water in to make it flow better and some paint so spots I miss don't show through so obviously. Just look for wall spackling paste, I think mine comes in a green tub.
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Sep 28, 2011 18:03
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I base my 15mm FoW minis individually on Litko wood bases. I glue the mini to the base, thin out some white glue a tiny bit, slop it on the base, and dip the thing in very fine white craft sand. When it dries base it dark brown and highlight in something lighter. Glue on a little static grass and It's done.
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Sep 28, 2011 18:55
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Scratch Monkey posted:I base my 15mm FoW minis individually on Litko wood bases. I glue the mini to the base, thin out some white glue a tiny bit, slop it on the base, and dip the thing in very fine white craft sand. When it dries base it dark brown and highlight in something lighter. Glue on a little static grass and It's done. Exactly how I do all my bases except I just nick my sand from building sites and playgrounds!
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Sep 28, 2011 18:58
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Serotonin posted:Exactly how I do all my bases except I just nick my sand from building sites and playgrounds! Same here. Glue and stolen sand is plenty enough. I've been googling around for British flags to print for 6mm without too much luck. I've found a handful but not nearly enough for the 10+ regiments i'm painting. Is there anyone who has stumbled upon any? Other sizes are ok i guess, i'll just have to rezise them.
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Sep 28, 2011 21:53
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Serotonin posted:And TAG and Empress and Mongrel and Devil Dog and MoFo. I was trying to think of ones that were in a more GW heroic style scale. Also I'm not a huge fan of TAG, while they make a big range, the detail is inconsistent and the quality control (especially on the weapon packs) is pretty low.
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Sep 28, 2011 23:41
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I'm really tempted to buy some Perry Miniatures (I got into Warhammer when the Perrys were dumping out endless amounts of lovely figures, I still have a ton of old metal lizardmen skinks, I cannot part with them). I've not really touched historicals before, outside of buying a few Brit armoured cars for Flames of War, and then never finishing them. I'm considering either Napoleonics or samurai. Napoleonics would be fine, outside of the OP mentioning Black Powder rules being intended for a 14 foot table, which would only just fit in my living room if it were empty.  I'd ideally like to paint up and use some samurai figures though, but from what I understand the colours and stuff like patterns on the fabric are a bit of a rivet counting minefield. Anyone able to point me in the direction of decent rulesets for that era and maybe some information about painting the little sods properly(ish)?
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Sep 29, 2011 05:00
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Havelock Ellis posted:I'm really tempted to buy some Perry Miniatures (I got into Warhammer when the Perrys were dumping out endless amounts of lovely figures, I still have a ton of old metal lizardmen skinks, I cannot part with them). I've not really touched historicals before, outside of buying a few Brit armoured cars for Flames of War, and then never finishing them. Napoleonics will be most likely to find you other people to play with since its so popular. You're unlikely to find another person who will also own an army of historically accurate samurai miniatures, so you would have to supply both sides of the engagement. In fact, a good rule of thumb is to have two armies for any historical game you want to play, sometimes more.
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Sep 29, 2011 05:31
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lilljonas posted:Same here. Glue and stolen sand is plenty enough. http://www.warflag.com/napflags/flaghtml/britindx.htm these are what I used for my 6mm project iirc. 40 odd flags there- that should be enough!
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Sep 29, 2011 07:46
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El Estrago Bonito posted:I was trying to think of ones that were in a more GW heroic style scale. Also I'm not a huge fan of TAG, while they make a big range, the detail is inconsistent and the quality control (especially on the weapon packs) is pretty low. Ah fair point! Some are nearer 25mm, such as Empress.
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Sep 29, 2011 07:46
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El Estrago Bonito posted:In fact, a good rule of thumb is to have two armies for any historical game you want to play, sometimes more. And that's also another reason to play in a smaller scale so you can AFFORD both armies. :p
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Sep 29, 2011 12:14
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That's one of the reasons I really don't like GW, especially in regards to WFB. Years ago I had friends who played it and they kept bugging me to buy an army pretty much so they'd have a new opponent. I eventually broke down and bought a dark elf army set, assembled and primed it, painted a small amount of it, and played a few times before realizing "hey! this games sucks!" If I had spent $30 on 6mm or 15mm figures I only to find out I didn't like the game wouldn't have such a bad taste in my mouth, and I'd definitely have an easier time reusing the minis. So 10 years on I have a WFB army that I never use sitting in a carrying case. I really ought to sell it.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:14
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So I need some berserkers. I think I can probably use WGF's Germans and use some extra viking heads I have. I know Foundry sells naked berserkers, but it's $20 for 6, as opposed to $20 for 30 Germans, and I bet I could use some of the German parts for the Welsh.
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Sep 29, 2011 14:16
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Serotonin posted:http://www.warflag.com/napflags/flaghtml/britindx.htm Thanks a bunch! Now I'll just have to resize them... Havelock Ellis posted:I'm really tempted to buy some Perry Miniatures (I got into Warhammer when the Perrys were dumping out endless amounts of lovely figures, I still have a ton of old metal lizardmen skinks, I cannot part with them). I've not really touched historicals before, outside of buying a few Brit armoured cars for Flames of War, and then never finishing them. Greetings from the thread's resident samurai hobbyist! I have around 100 of Perry's samurai miniatures,  and here are my thoughts: The miniatures are awesome. But don't buy up an army right now. Why? Because an all metal samurai army is a logistical nightmare. All those banners, polearms and spears mean that if you put them in a carry case you will have to spend a lot of time and effort gluing on poo poo that falls off during transportation. Not to mention everything that breaks outright. I have pretty much stopped playing with them since packing and unpacking them guarantees that a lot of them break. Now, if you plan to store them unpacked in the same room as where you game, this becomes a non-issue. If not, take heed. Now, what do I recommend? If you love samurai, buy a few to get started with painting, and then keep your shirt on a while. Because beyond the horizon is the tasty tasty promise of plastic releases. Wargames Factory, which is very much hit or miss, are in the tooling process for at least two boxes, with ashigaru and foot samurai. Now, they might end up far from beautiful, but they will be cheap and plastics are so much easier to store and transport without breakage. This will enable you to get big units for cheap, and you can still get some of those nice Perrys for your front rank and officers. That alone would be enough to reconsider how you collect the army. But it gets sweeter. The grapewine has it that Perry's are planning plastic boxes themselves. Now, given how great the Perry plastic boxes for Napoleonics and War of the Roses turned out, these would probably be perfect if they ever turn up. If they include cavalry I won't buy anything else for a year. Right now I'm so burned out from my 28mm samurai breaking that I mostly paint 6mm samurai, but I'm totally going to revisit the army (and replace pretty much every big unit) if we see several plastic releases. I'll happily help you with the painting issue, it's one of the more difficult periods to approach but far from impossible if you don't aim to do it way too detailed. One really nice way to dip your toes into the period is to try to play Mordheim (free rules available from GW) and substituting the bands with appropriate miniatures. Me and some friends got started on a simple alternative version, which is mostly just a modified equipment list: http://japanmordheim.blogspot.com/ With some creative thought it's not so difficult to adjust the rest of the rules. As a bonus you only need 4-5 blisters to have enough miniatures for two people to play, and you get to try painting both ashigaru and samurai. I put up some articles on collecting samurai on http://muraminiatures.com/ but I haven't finished any of the planned painting tutorials yet. It does have simple tutorials for making affordable terrain though. You can see pictures of my painted stuff at http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w114/lilljonas/samurai/ as well. Finally I must add that there are several other sources of good 28mm samurai miniatures, so if there is something you don't find at Perry's I might have an idea of where to look. lilljonas fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 17:17
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lilljonas posted:All those banners, polearms and spears mean that if you put them in a carry case you will have to spend a lot of time and effort gluing on poo poo that falls off during transportation. Not to mention everything that breaks outright. I have pretty much stopped playing with them since packing and unpacking them guarantees that a lot of them break. Now, if you plan to store them unpacked in the same room as where you game, this becomes a non-issue. If not, take heed. Storing minis in foam trays is for chumps. What you need to get are some flexible steel bottoms from Litko and stick them to the bottom of your bases. Then go to HomeDepot and find those large magnetic vinyl sheets that are used to cover air vents. Buy a bunch, they're cheap. Then look in the storage section for those small plastic drawer organizers and buy a few of those. Cut the vinyl sheets to the size of the drawers and put them in magnetic side up. Then put your steel bottomed minis on there. Viola. Minis stay standing and don't touch each other. It saves so much wear and tear on paint and glue you'll slap yourself for not having done it sooner.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:31
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Scratch Monkey posted:Storing minis in foam trays is for chumps. What you need to get are some flexible steel bottoms from Litko and stick them to the bottom of your bases. Then go to HomeDepot and find those large magnetic vinyl sheets that are used to cover air vents. Buy a bunch, they're cheap. Then look in the storage section for those small plastic drawer organizers and buy a few of those. Cut the vinyl sheets to the size of the drawers and put them in magnetic side up. Then put your steel bottomed minis on there. Viola. Minis stay standing and don't touch each other. It saves so much wear and tear on paint and glue you'll slap yourself for not having done it sooner. I do the opposite and glue the magnetic vinyl (from here) to my minis. Then I use cookie sheets or a metal toolbox for transport. Makes it easy to build movement trays, too.
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Sep 29, 2011 18:38
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Colonial Air Force posted:So I need some berserkers. I think I can probably use WGF's Germans and use some extra viking heads I have. These are quite nice, if a little understated. http://www.grippingbeast.com/product.php?ItemID=1943 or the Ulfednaher http://www.grippingbeast.com/photos/ulfhednar2.jpg Serotonin fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 19:02
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Unfortunately I'm not in the US and I haven't seen anything like those vinyl sheets you describe in the local DIY shops. Maybe it is because we don't have the same type of ventilation systems as in the US, but I can't find a single shop with them after extensive googling. It sounds like a good idea though and I'll have to check some more. The reason I use a foam transport is because I have the choice of taking the bike 6 km or a bus and walk around 1 km to get to the club. Big bulky metal containers are not really perfect for either of these situations.  I do use rubber magnet sheets from litko and old cookie boxes for my 15mm and 6mm though, works like a charm and is another reason why I mostly paint and play in the smaller scales right now. I can even lug a few armies to work without anyone noticing before gaming evenings. EDIT: like my 15mm crusaders 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 19:05
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Does anyone use rare earth magnets for transport, on the bases? I'm not sure how they compare to just using magnetic sheeting in a metal box. Would they be too strong, enough that picking the mini up risks debasing it? I use some teeny 2mm x .5mm ones for some 1:600/1:700ish stuff, but not for bases on anything else.
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Sep 29, 2011 20:08
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I am new to historical and I want to start some Flames of War Indians to have an army that I can use between Early, Mid war, and Late (in theory). I am having a hard time finding information both hobby and historical, excluding wikis, on them, specifically Indian 4th infantry division. Questions 1) Do I field all Sikh troops or should I buy some British rifles to mix in? Can I mix them on the bases? The 4th seemed pretty cool with intermingling in the few pictures that I have seen. 2) Should I field Indian Pattern carriers? Maybe, 2 groups of 3? 3) What books are the Indians in? So, far I know that they are in Hellfire and Back (Early War) and the Cassino book. 4) Paint up some Australians as Ghurkas, good idea or bad idea? So far, I bought the Indian HQ, Indian Rifle platoon, and a pack of Indian Pattern Carriers (2). What next?
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Sep 30, 2011 01:39
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lilljonas posted:This...this is wonderful! Thankyou. I am bookmarking this stuff for when my Perry stuff turns up next week, ended up just buying one pack of samurai with yari raised to paint up. Main intention is just for modelling really, at the minute anyway. I like the era and Perry's sculpting style so waiting around for plastics while I slowly paint up whatever takes my fancy isn't such a big problem. I would like to end up playing games at some point, the Mordheim rules look like a good place to start. Only thing I was wondering was basically painting. As far as I can understand, you don't have to worry too much about things being specific colours outside of the sashimono, for samurai at least, as it was all personal equipment? I was going to refer to prints etc, to get ideas for patterns on the armour and under clothes. Havelock Ellis fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 12:43
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I've got one of the Battlefront sprays on order to basecoat my german tanks. Do I need to prime them first?
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Sep 30, 2011 14:52
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I never bother to although I always varnish them after for protection.
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Sep 30, 2011 16:00
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Sneaky Homunculus posted:I am new to historical and I want to start some Flames of War Indians to have an army that I can use between Early, Mid war, and Late (in theory). I am having a hard time finding information both hobby and historical, excluding wikis, on them, specifically Indian 4th infantry division. 2: why not? 3: I think that's it. 4: see 1.
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Sep 30, 2011 17:41
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Havelock Ellis posted:
Samurai warfare is nice in that there are enough variation to find an excuse to do whatever you want, unless you are going to represent specific armies... and even then there's a lot of leeway. First of all, most armies had no uniforms... but a small handful had, so if you can if you want to. Generally the samurai would supply their own gear, but at the end of the 16th century a few warlords provided their army with gear. But while very few armies had uniforms a lot of them got their stuff from the same groups of local craftsmen, so local access to dyes and traditional patterns could mean that samurai from the same region would look a bit uniform anyway. Ashigaru started out with a hodge podge of whatever they could scrape together, but at the end of the 16th century it wasn't unusual for a warlord to provide most of the gear to his ashigaru, so both uniform and non uniform ashigaru is historically correct. As for the armour themselves, a vast majority of the armour was laquered black, with red and rusty brown trailing far behind on second and third place... but there are enough examples of other colours for you to be excused if you want to get some variation. Similary most clothes were various shades of grey, indigo and brown, but more luxorious silk provided other colours for the wealthy. Simple repeated patterns and stripes are good ways to vary your cloth without needing too fancy free hand technique. The sashimono itself doesn't have to be uniform either, if you don't want to. While some, like the Hojo clan, developed an almost modern use of insignia with uniform sashimono dividing the army in corps by colours and stripes, far from everyone were this disciplined. Some samurai had personal banners even if they were in the middle of a group, with everything from family crests to Buddhist prayers to messages equivalent to "My name is Bob and in this battle I will find you, Steve, and cut your loving head of for badmouthing my dad last year". So again, you can do pretty much what you want. I've found that having more uniformity than is historically plausible often looks better when painting miniatures. If you do want to make a historical army, you still have a lot of leeway as there are tons of gaps in the records of most of the forces of the era. For several warlords we only know their personal banners, or only one of them (most samurai lords in the 16th century had three personal banners: one army flag called "nobori", and two that followed him on the battlefield callled o uma-jirushi "big horse banner" and ko uma-jirushi "small horse banner"). If you want inspiration for historical banners and heraldry, your best start is the totally awesome heraldry thread on Samurai Archives: http://forums.samurai-archives.com/viewtopic.php?t=1638 My own opinion is that anything that looks good is ok, which is why I've painted up some of mine in the completely ahistorical combination of yellow and purple:  After all, it's difficult to get upset when the real samurai pulled off some extreme heraldry such as this: 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 30, 2011 19:06
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lilljonas posted:This is all brilliant, thanks a bunch man. I've got a good idea of what to be doing now. I'm not really too worried about being feverishly accurate, but diving into a subject you have little idea on is always a bit daunting, so some guidance is always nice. I've ordered a few vallejo paints to flesh out my palette a bit (I'm slowly building up my vallejo range after using mainly citadel paints but it's mostly greens and browns at the minute), so I'll try what you've mentioned and see how I end up.
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Sep 30, 2011 20:25
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El Estrago Bonito posted:For 28mm your choices boil down to Foundry, Black Scorpion and Eureka. In my experience BS is the best of those but the Eureka guys aren't bad. What are the options for 1/72 scale models? companies or sites/forums that display the options would be slick!
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Sep 30, 2011 23:36
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Psychic Fetus posted:What are the options for 1/72 scale models? companies or sites/forums that display the options would be slick! For modern your options are pretty varied. Plasticsoldierreview.com has pretty up to date information and pictures of all the major manufacturers of 1/72 scale guys. The ones I have personally are from Ceasar, Revell and Italeri. Italeri makes really high quality miniatures, but nothing time period wise after Vietnam. Ceasar makes the best modern military troops, but really only do American and Israeli forces. Revell isnt as nice as Ceasar or Italeri but have a pretty good range of modern military stuff. I have the revell SAS and German commando sets and they are decent.
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Oct 1, 2011 04:02
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What's a good way to remove FoW American Armor Paint from a metal tank?
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Oct 2, 2011 01:46
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