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nm posted:NASIOC is basically good for buying parts and that's it. I spent a good deal of time perusing the "Show your unique modifications" thread over there. Oh, and the 2.5i thread, in which people tart up their neutered Imprezas for some reason. (Don't get mad at me, N/A guys, I have a 2.5i with hubcaps and slushbox).  Don't ever change, AA goons. I'm glad I have a Sane Subaru Owner Thread here to read. Edit: Because I haven't had a car worth altering in any way (and won't until I get my STi in 2014), I haven't really been keeping up with what's "cool." That being said, I'm a little disappointed at Things That Have Become Cool among a lot of car people. Hellaflush? Stancing? Good grief. War Bunny fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 16:54
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War Bunny posted:Don't ever change, AA goons. Deal. 
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Sep 27, 2011 19:07
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I asked this before, but thought I would ask again and maybe get more info. What are peoples opinions on Strut tower bars and H braces for the 02+ WRX? The ones one eBay are about $30-40 each and I figure "what the hell" for that price. I have nearly every aftermarket part whiteline offers for the 02 WRX if it matters. Pretty much all suspension stuff except rear control arm bushings, control arms (front and rear, though I have an ALK), springs, shocks and steering bushings.
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Sep 27, 2011 19:37
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Anecdotally: the front strut tower bar doesn't seem to make a difference, but the rear one is effective for wagons with fold-down rear seats and sedans with ski-pass-through rear seats (Canada only, probably). An X or triangle brace for the rear strut bar (such as the Oswald brace) is much better than just a single bar. I don't have any experience with subframe braces yet. I don't think chassis stiffening is a very big problem on the GD/GG anyway as it's significantly more rigid than the previous generation of Impreza.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:04
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Lord Gaga posted:I asked this before, but thought I would ask again and maybe get more info. I bought one of those H-braces for my '02. It didn't fit, holes ended up in the wrong places. I doubt that they've been improved. It was close enough that I was going to try anyway with a combination of brute force and hole elongation. Could be that they're meant to be in static tension but I doubt it. However, two of the bolts are in there with about a million pounds of torque; I split a socket with a cheater and my cheap impact couldn't budge it either. That would have been in 2003, yours is probably rusted solid by now. I ended up selling it so the next drat fool, but it should be a nice upgrade. I never tried a strut tower bar, the towers are fairly close to the firewall so I really don't think they move a lot normally. I put one in a '99 Maxima that really changed the car for the better, so they can work but the effectiveness depends on the chassis. I haven't even bothered on the Mini because the strut towers are actually part of the firewall. They've got their own issues, but lateral flex isn't one of them! edit: Get the steering bushings! They were really very nice. If you have small hands and some grease nothing really needs to be removed, just loosened.
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Sep 27, 2011 20:26
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Cat Terrist posted:Firstly, do not go to NASIOC. The advice is likely to be godawful and I'm glad no one has said swaybars - SWAYBARS BALANCE CARS THEY DONT FIX ALIGNEMTS and this truly pisses me off about the Subaru community, this crap about camber curves and blah blah needs to loving stop. except for that GRM article just posted where installing swaybars made the biggest difference on lap times aside from tires. This is a sedan, not a double wishbone sports car. You can't "fix the alignment" just with springs. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 27, 2011 |
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Sep 27, 2011 22:12
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jamal posted:
Who the gently caress said I'm fixing alignment with SPRINGS?!?! You FIX ALLIGNMENT PROBLEMS BY ALIGNMENT ITEMS which I drat well said. Now if you are inferring I am saying "There alignemnt problem fixed" after correctly stating to GET an alignment after lowering, then you need to read what I said again. In absolutly no way have I suggested springs to fix alignemnt, but they definatly change it and you do indeed need to at the least redo toe and see what your new camber settings are. quote:except for that GRM article just posted where installing swaybars made the biggest difference on lap times aside from tires Except for the people I trust a whole godawful load more who do this a lot more often than either of us and back it up with real race pace week in, week out. And also backed out as I have previously said by my own testing which showed gently caress all difference on the stop watch and more to the point, the real drop in weight shift that made turn in unplesant. Fix Alignment problems with real alignment fixes, not this mystical bullshit. quote:What are peoples opinions on Strut tower bars and H braces for the 02+ WRX? The ones one eBay are about $30-40 each and I figure "what the hell" for that price. I wouldnt touch Ebay myself, but for what it's worth a X brace is a better idea and configuration atho to be honest a H brace will also have a real positive influence. Worth getting Strut Braces - on the front the firewall is basically connected to the strut towers so there's a lot of intrinsic strength there already and in general not really needed. It's not the worst idea in the world tho but you wont get the changes that you might in other cars. Rear? On the sedan the rear parcel shelf basically forms one big strut brace and opinion here at least favours no brace. Testing backs up the "doesnt matter" thoughts. Wagons? Difference situation and it is highly recommended. For what it's worth I'm going with strut braces next year on the rally car and the road car.
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Sep 28, 2011 04:31
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stiffer springs assuming a coil-over type setup, not just a set of teins or whatever. You can dial in all the caster the car will take (around 6 degrees if you're lucky), crank the camber up to -4, replace all the bushings, and put on 500 lb/in springs. You still won't get a sticky tire happy without bigger bars. if you take the time to collect real data instead of just looking at the tires it's where you'll end up. jamal fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Sep 29, 2011 |
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Sep 28, 2011 09:17
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Mommy! Daddy! Stop fighting, you're scaring me! I think we just need to agree the experience has taught both of you different things, and with Jamal's focus on tarmac/time-attack, and CT's primarily dirt (not forgetting other AutoX, etc experience) - it could very well lead to different opinions on this stuff. The primary point being - fix the alignment first and then explore other options, knowing that opinions vary as to which is the best bang for the buck (The best being experience - learn your car!). Move from there.
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Sep 28, 2011 13:56
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Looking for a bit of advice. Found this add on craigslist: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2623707242.html and am thinking of making the guy an offer. KBB puts the car at $4800, and I was thinking of offering him 4k for it. I've installed a new flywheel and hooked up a transmission before so its too difficult. Think 4k is a good offer? Anything else to look out for? I'd prefer a 2006 but a 2002 would be a real fun project.
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Sep 29, 2011 21:35
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Iron Lung posted:Looking for a bit of advice. Found this add on craigslist: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2623707242.html and am thinking of making the guy an offer. KBB puts the car at $4800, and I was thinking of offering him 4k for it. I've installed a new flywheel and hooked up a transmission before so its too difficult. Think 4k is a good offer? Anything else to look out for? I'd prefer a 2006 but a 2002 would be a real fun project. That's really not much information... Clutch job on the subbie isn't cheap.
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Sep 30, 2011 04:54
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I just paid 8K for the same thing, albeit a wagon and bone stock. I think you could do a clutch job on it for less than 4k and still make out good.
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Sep 30, 2011 17:38
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I'm fairly sure that sway bars have been discussed too much in this thread, but I still think I am going to buy a set and I have questions for the advocates. I'm sure these questions have been discussed so I re-read 30 or so pages and couldn't find anything. Its a stock 2011 GR STi. I want to buy a Whiteline set. I'm having trouble deciding between the 22 and 24 millimeter bars. I don't daily drive the car now that break in is over, but don't want to be pummeled by obscene NVH either. Sunday will be my fifth full day of autocross with the car, so I want something that will make a noticeable difference in that setting. The rear 24 mm bar and the end links that go with it say "motorsport only." Really? Or will I hate myself for not just going with 22 mm front and rear? Should I have a larger front bar? The product codes for 24 F and 22 R seem similar... I've heard good/bad about going either way. Anyone know if fitment of Whiteline's rear bar is a problem with an SPT exhaust? I ask because Race Comp says theirs bangs on the SPT exhaust for the STi. Only thing I've done is an alignment and asked for -1.5 camber in front and 0 toe all around. That made a huge difference in autocross performance. Also, for 80 bucks shipped I'm going to try out the Whiteline steering rack bushings. Anyone know if Race Comp's are better? Are they both a waste of money? I don't really have a problem with the steering but more feedback is always nice. Might get the rear diff bushes too... Thanks dudes.
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Sep 30, 2011 18:32
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Iron Lung posted:Looking for a bit of advice. Found this add on craigslist: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/2623707242.html and am thinking of making the guy an offer. KBB puts the car at $4800, and I was thinking of offering him 4k for it. I've installed a new flywheel and hooked up a transmission before so its too difficult. Think 4k is a good offer? Anything else to look out for? I'd prefer a 2006 but a 2002 would be a real fun project. I would do a little dance if I picked up an 02 WRX that needed a clutch + we'll say $300 in other fix up work for $4000...so long as I did the clutch myself. THE BLACK NINJA: Were you actually able to get -1.5 degrees of camber out of the factory fronts? I have an 02 and am very happy with the 22mm adjustable bars.
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Sep 30, 2011 18:53
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Sway bars don't affect NVH. There's no difference between the Racecomp and Whiteline steering rack bushings.
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Sep 30, 2011 19:09
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Lord Gaga posted:Were you actually able to get -1.5 degrees of camber out of the factory fronts? I have an 02 and am very happy with the 22mm adjustable bars. Yes. The alignment guy said he could probably get up to 2 degrees, but I asked for 1.5. It totally transformed the car from massive understeer to much more neutral and only pushing sometimes. In my last autocross session I got sideways a couple times.  I'm also looking at those rear subframe bushings.
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Sep 30, 2011 22:51
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I'm fairly sure that sway bars have been discussed too much in this thread, but I still think I am going to buy a set and I have questions for the advocates. I'm sure these questions have been discussed so I re-read 30 or so pages and couldn't find anything. If you autocross you'll want a big front bar. I autocross my 08 STI and I had a 25mm Perrin bar that made a big difference, but now I have a custom 32mm bar that's even better. I drive it every day on the street and the only time it's really even noticeable it is when you don't hit bumps or dips square and it rocks the car back and forth a bit. If you're doing springs as well then you probably don't need to go as big with the bar like I did, but I'm trying to keep it legal to run in SCCA stock class so that's pretty much all I can do. I can't really speak to the rear bar as SCCA rules say I'm not allowed to touch it.
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Oct 1, 2011 06:15
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Is the following "mod" worth the $3 in tubing or is it all smoke and magic? Improve factory boost solenoid for $2.88 Edit: Anyone know the console bulb numbers off hand? I've been digging around on NASIOC and Google and can't find much, I was thinking instead of the light condom getting LED replacements for the console to match the red or blue of my stereo. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Oct 1, 2011 |
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Oct 1, 2011 14:34
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This little light.
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Oct 1, 2011 14:41
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toplitzin posted:Is the following "mod" worth the $3 in tubing or is it all smoke and magic? Don't be a ricer.
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Oct 1, 2011 15:17
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I just hate having different colored lights everywhere, the stereo is red or blue, the console is that green, and two different colored gauges. I want unity.
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Oct 1, 2011 15:26
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Lazor posted:If you autocross you'll want a big front bar. I autocross my 08 STI and I had a 25mm Perrin bar that made a big difference, but now I have a custom 32mm bar that's even better. I drive it every day on the street and the only time it's really even noticeable it is when you don't hit bumps or dips square and it rocks the car back and forth a bit. If you're doing springs as well then you probably don't need to go as big with the bar like I did, but I'm trying to keep it legal to run in SCCA stock class so that's pretty much all I can do. I can't really speak to the rear bar as SCCA rules say I'm not allowed to touch it. Did you upgrade your end links? The Whiteline website say they help induce the effects of a bigger bar sooner but they result in NVH. Staying in the stock classes would be nice. I run in Street Tire class and don't really know why. There are a few cars in that class that seem to have some stuff done to them. I wouldn't mind going to STU. The three other WRX guys in the local club run in that class. I'm always faster than one of them but he still gets an award for 3rd cause I'm not in his class. Which I guess it sucks to be him getting beat by people in lower classes, but also kind of bullshit for me cause he gets club points. THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 1, 2011 |
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Oct 1, 2011 17:37
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On my '97 Outback Sport, the two kinds of gauge cluster light bulbs are #74 and #194.
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Oct 1, 2011 22:29
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Seat Safety Switch posted:On my '97 Outback Sport, the two kinds of gauge cluster light bulbs are #74 and #194. I'm looking for the console ones at first, then to the gauge cluster. So if I grab a handful of them I should be able to work my way up the interior?
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Oct 1, 2011 23:05
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Did you upgrade your end links? The Whiteline website say they help induce the effects of a bigger bar sooner but they result in NVH. In my local club they have an indexed stock street tire class I run in that's pretty popular. There's usually 10 or so people running in the class and I usually finish just out of the trophies. If your club doesn't have something similar I've heard of people that run stock prepared cars with street tires in regular stock classes and in ST* classes and I think they do better in ST* because the R-comp tires are such a big advantage if people are running them in stock.
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Oct 1, 2011 23:16
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Why is nothing simple? You know, I just had all this crap apart back in late Feb when I did my timing belt. Easy peasy. This time? Snapped off one of the bolts holding on the snorkus and two of the ones that hold on the underbody cover. Fortunately, it's nothing that's really all critical for me using the car. I'll try an extractor on them and hopefully I'll just be able to replace the bolts. So, that out of the way, I find that I need 5 M6 screws to hold the fans on the new Koyo radiator. So, I guess I'll be making a trip to lowes tonight and finish up tomorrow with the install. I also snapped off the screw of the lower radiator hose retaining clamp. Good thing I bought all new of them with hoses before I started the job so I just dremeled it off. At least when I popped the driver's side timing belt cover off everything looked good under there so I can be happy nothing is going wrong with the timing belt job. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Oct 2, 2011 |
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Oct 1, 2011 23:17
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toplitzin posted:Is the following "mod" worth the $3 in tubing or is it all smoke and magic? http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/images/HowSubaruFactoryBoostControlSystemWorksv109.pdf Read this, once you understand what you are doing, you can change the size of the restricter.
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Oct 2, 2011 22:52
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I posted a couple weeks ago about a creaking behind my steering wheel. I had my car at the dealership and asked them to take a look at it; the mechanic thought it was the clock spring. Then they quoted me $300 to fix it. Is that something that a non-mechanical person without very many tools could tackle? Or should I just live with the creaking? Secondly, my clutch pedal has started squeaking. I've isolated the noise to one of the parts just behind the pedal. Can I just add a little lube to everything back there and not worry about it too much? Or do I need to be careful about what kind of lube I use and where?
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Oct 4, 2011 04:32
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SteveMcQueen posted:I posted a couple weeks ago about a creaking behind my steering wheel. I had my car at the dealership and asked them to take a look at it; the mechanic thought it was the clock spring. Then they quoted me $300 to fix it. My 2000 OBW has developed a slightly squeaky clutch pedal noise, but you can't hear it inside the car. If I'm stopped next to a curb with the windows down I can hear it though. I'd appreciate any and all speculation. I might just have to go bug jamal someday now that I only live 40 minutes from his shop.
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Oct 4, 2011 06:32
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Cat Terrist posted:Who the gently caress said I'm fixing alignment with SPRINGS?!?! You FIX ALLIGNMENT PROBLEMS BY ALIGNMENT ITEMS which I drat well said. :ITT Australian loving logical reasoning:
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Oct 4, 2011 13:08
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What's the preferred replacement for the stock springs in a Saabaru if I'm already happy with the stock ride height and rate? Getting ready to do all 4 struts and I figured I'd go ahead and replace the springs while I'm at.
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Oct 4, 2011 13:26
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JayKay posted:What's the preferred replacement for the stock springs in a Saabaru if I'm already happy with the stock ride height and rate? Getting ready to do all 4 struts and I figured I'd go ahead and replace the springs while I'm at. Why would you replace the springs? Are they broken???
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Oct 4, 2011 14:22
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JayKay posted:What's the preferred replacement for the stock springs in a Saabaru if I'm already happy with the stock ride height and rate? Getting ready to do all 4 struts and I figured I'd go ahead and replace the springs while I'm at. If you're happy with the ride height and rate, and you don't have a broken spring, I'm confused about why you'd want to replace them (unless there are springs for the 9-2x that are even more comfortable and give you better handling - I've heard that's the case for the STi, but I don't know about the saabaru).
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Oct 4, 2011 18:58
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My big rant is that 'performance springs' and 'lowering springs' go hand in hand. I really want to put those Epic Performance progressive springs on my 2010 WRX, but I don't want to lower the car to do so (even though the Epics only lower the car about 1", which is the smallest drop I can find from any springs!). I've been toying with the idea of installing those Epics along with a 1" lift block which should (hopefully) get me the better performing springs without dropping my car. 
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Oct 4, 2011 19:19
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The problem with the 09+ WRX is the dampers, they are seriously awful. You should replace them instead, and then pair them with something like RCE yellow springs which only have a 15mm drop.
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Oct 4, 2011 21:32
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Blaise posted:Why would you replace the springs? Are they broken??? BobTheFerret posted:If you're happy with the ride height and rate, and you don't have a broken spring, I'm confused about why you'd want to replace them (unless there are springs for the 9-2x that are even more comfortable and give you better handling - I've heard that's the case for the STi, but I don't know about the saabaru). I don't believe they're broken but I'd rather go ahead and slap some new ones on there since I'm going to already have the car apart for the struts. However if it's pointless, I'll just keep the stockers on. I was more curious if there were any mild aftermarket springs that were for DD's and not for autox or slamming. Edit: Like something along these lines Mach V Springs (04-07 Impreza/WRX) JayKay fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Oct 4, 2011 |
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Oct 4, 2011 22:51
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Washed car (07 WRX, only mods are catback and Cobb AP Stage1) started throwing P1410 the next day. (Secondary air injection valve system stuck open) Cleared the code with my AP, comes right back. Uninstalled Accessport, comes right back. Checked air filter and it was disgusting and not noticeably moist, but I blew it out with my air compressor anyways, comes right back. Next step to just replace the air filter to make sure that's not still fouling the MAF?
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Oct 5, 2011 03:35
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That sounds like your air pump is going/clogged/busted. Check to make sure the connector to it is secure.
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Oct 5, 2011 04:28
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Speaking of GC STi swaps, does anyone remember that guy who had a silver RS, who was in med school? I can't remember if he had a standalone thread or posted it in here or somewhere.
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Oct 5, 2011 05:29
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kimbo305 posted:Speaking of GC STi swaps, does anyone remember that guy who had a silver RS, who was in med school? I can't remember if he had a standalone thread or posted it in here or somewhere. Dynes H6 swap?
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Oct 5, 2011 11:43
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