|
Me and one of my friends are trying to self-publish a collection of short stories. We would really like to use the name "The Bleeding Sun" for the collection. The only problem is that there is a symphonic-metal band from Spain that has the same name. Would we get into any trouble if we still used this name, or would we need to get approval from the band or potentially just come up with a different name?
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 08:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 13:41 |
|
|
bEatmstrJ posted:I have a photoshop question.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 13:24
|
|
|
Besesoth posted:I've been asked to design a font for a project, and the client has asked for some of the extended characters, including capital letters with accents. If the "natural" capital letters extend from the baseline to the ascender, what's the convention for placing the accents? I know that some typefaces leave the capital letters the same height and place the accents above the cap line (and often above the ascent line), and others shorten the capital letters to keep accents under the ascent. This is my first "professional" font design, and so I'm eager to get it "right". Someone who knows more about fonts can confirm or deny this, but my understanding is that something like that is up to the designer's discretion and should be based on what the font is needed for. For example, if the font is designed to be computer-readable like OCRA or OCRB, then putting the accents within the baseline-cap height area makes sense - all of the characters need to fit in the same size area to be scannable. If the font is meant for display or body text, then putting them above the cap line is more readable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 1, 2011 15:09
|
|
|
Harold Ramis Drugs posted:Me and one of my friends are trying to self-publish a collection of short stories. We would really like to use the name "The Bleeding Sun" for the collection. The only problem is that there is a symphonic-metal band from Spain that has the same name. Would we get into any trouble if we still used this name, or would we need to get approval from the band or potentially just come up with a different name? Not that I'm in any way qualified to answer this accurately, but I remember reading a school text book (yay business school) about some of the troubles with companies expanding overseas and one of the issues was that many countries don't recognize US laws (and sometimes vice versa) in regards to copyrights and stuff like that. Not that this is directly related in any way, but if the band is in Spain I would just try to research if they legitimately have the rights to that name, and even if they do does the fact that the rights probably aren't based in the United States mean anything along the lines of availability. You may also want to look into the fact that the subject matter in which the name(s) are used for are completely different from one another so that could be another way you can get away with using it. I would imagine if you're just self-publishing a small run and you're not planning on investing a ton of money and getting involved with a lot of legal matters (starting your own publishing company/distributing through amazon and other businesses) then you're probably fine. But again, this is in no way legal advice or anything, just an opinion and hopefully some direction to help your research. fake edit: this is all assuming you're in America and they're not, though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 4, 2011 09:14
|
|
|
Harold Ramis Drugs posted:Me and one of my friends are trying to self-publish a collection of short stories. We would really like to use the name "The Bleeding Sun" for the collection. The only problem is that there is a symphonic-metal band from Spain that has the same name. Would we get into any trouble if we still used this name, or would we need to get approval from the band or potentially just come up with a different name?
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2011 04:06
|
|
|
Defenestration posted:IANAL Worst acronym ever.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2011 16:07
|
|
|
pipes! posted:Worst acronym ever. And yet, given how it's used most of the time, it's entirely accurate when read aloud.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2011 16:38
|
|
|
IF Michael Chabon was not Jewish would "The Yiddish Policemen's Union" be anti-semetic? OR if I wrote a story in which there was a Jewish Mafia as a set of characters would this be offensive (if I avoid stupid Jewish stereotypes)?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 03:45
|
|
|
You could make it purposefully offensive and just have it serve as satire. If it's a serious story, a Jewish mafia doesn't really make any sense though. If you don't play it as offensive though, it shouldn't come off as offensive if you handle it right.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 04:04
|
|
|
Ridonkulous posted:I wrote a story in which there was a Jewish Mafia as a set of characters would this be offensive (if I avoid stupid Jewish stereotypes)? yes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 04:05
|
|
|
neonnoodle posted:yes. I'm trying to avoid wasting my time.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 04:10
|
|
|
MixMasterGriff posted:If it's a serious story, a Jewish mafia doesn't really make any sense though. If you don't play it as offensive though, it shouldn't come off as offensive if you handle it right. Err, the Jewish mafia slightly predates the Italian mafia in the U.S... <  >OK, here is the deal. Just like I'm sure you understand the whole "They can call each other the N-word" double-standard, there is also a Jewish...thing. We are a very tribal people and we generally have a possessive relationship to our history. Being Jewish is a thing which seems a certain way to "outsiders," but feels a particular way to us. It's just weird. If you're not Jewish, you will either have to be extremely observant of the idiosyncrasies of Jewish identity and culture (which would require years of immersion, like a serious anthropological study), or you won't "get it." If you don't get it, at best you'll just waste your time, and at worst you'll offend someone. All that said, you might find it really fascinating to dig into the history of the Jewish mafia, and learn more about Jewish-American culture. You know what you should see? The movie A Serious Man. That movie is the best artistic representation I've seen of what it feels like to be Jewish. < / >
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 04:25
|
|
|
That's the best answer I could ask for. Thank you.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 04:59
|
|
|
I thought I remembered seeing a post/thread about starting a webcomic and now I can't find any resources about it here. Anyone know if one exists? edit: Or just about running one in general. double edit: Found it in the, you know, comic subforum. vs Dinosaurs fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Sep 22, 2011 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2011 21:42
|
|
|
A couple of friends and myself want to print a small run (50-100) of little artbooks, about 32 pages, size 8 1/2"x11" with perfect binding. Are there any printers that someone would recommend or has had good luck with?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 05:32
|
|
|
Sanguinary Novel posted:A couple of friends and myself want to print a small run (50-100) of little artbooks, about 32 pages, size 8 1/2"x11" with perfect binding. Are there any printers that someone would recommend or has had good luck with? 32 pages or 32 sheets? If the former, it might be too small for perfect binding.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 12:19
|
|
|
neonnoodle posted:32 pages or 32 sheets? If the former, it might be too small for perfect binding. It's the size of a standard children's book, which can come perfect bound. Unless I'm just misunderstanding terminology...
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2011 16:22
|
|
|
I made a post in the GBS "Hallowe'en" thread about a mask I'm making here, but I'm having trouble coming up with a paint plan. Because I already have a light texture, I was thinking of spray painting it a dark brown, letting it dry, and maybe spraying a bit of cloth over my fingertip black and rubbing the still-wet paint into the "crevasses" of the texture, to achieve an old/rotted wood look. Am I crazy? Is there another awesome way to achieve a woodgrain texture or pattern?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2011 10:57
|
|
|
Sanguinary Novel posted:It's the size of a standard children's book, which can come perfect bound. Unless I'm just misunderstanding terminology... Each sheet of paper will have 2 pages (front and back). If a book has 32 pages, it will be 16 sheets of paper. If it has 32 sheets, it will be 64 pages (plus the extra crap in the front and back). Depending on the weight of the paper, there is sometimes a minimum sheet number for perfect binding, because if it gets too thin, there is not enough space for the spine to be squared off and for the glue to grab on to the pages.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2011 12:30
|
|
|
This is not a question, but an answer to a question that some people might find useful: "How much does a website cost?" Someone canvassed 40 developers, asking them what they typically charge for things like logos, home pages etc.: http://blog.folyo.me/post/10723370923/how-much-does-a-website-cost
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2011 14:50
|
|
|
Been awhile since I've silkscreened and looking for advice: I am planning on doing a short run of an album. This company Stumptown printers has an awesome pack, called the arigato pak. Downside is it's only available in 18pt chipboard, ie: brown. Do you think I could screen a full layer of black ink on one side, let it dry, then lighter ink over, for the effect of black paper? If it's a thin enough layer of ink they mostly likely won't warp right? I plan on doing a few experiments, but don't want to commit to a whole "blank" screen if someone knows it'll look crappy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2011 18:11
|
|
|
I am looking to get into video editing. Does anyone know the best software/sites for a beginner
|
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2011 05:57
|
|
|
I'm looking into making custom shoes using some sort of fabric paint marker. I'd really like to speak to someone who has done this before to see what works for them and what problems I might need to work around. Has anyone done this before or know someone who has that I can contact? Or, barring those, a good writeup on it? I've seen some on sites like eHow but lord knows how accurate those are. I thought this might be a better question for DIY but didn't see a thread. Yip Yips fucked around with this message at 07:11 on Oct 1, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 1, 2011 07:07
|
|
|
There seems to be a lot of photoshop related questions in this thread, so I apologize if I am in the wrong place. Here's what I want to do: Make a .gif avatar based off my current one, but with animating "magic" effects. Here is my problem: The source video (available for download on the Skyrim website) throws obstacles at me. One is that the video starts from the character's feet and moves up and over the character, thus centering on the character in the .gif animation is difficult. Another problem is of course the avatar dimensions for SA. So not only does the camera go over the character, there's a bunch of useless background on the sides, above and under the character. Here is what I want to do: Is there a tool that crops video frame by frame by certain set dimensions that focus on where your mouse is or something? I.e. I can have a "crop box" that is centered on my mouse pointer, and I play the feedback and focus the mouse pointer over the character's face. EDIT: Here is the full clip that contains the magic effects here. Not the entire clip, just cropping to focus on the character's face. Stay Safe fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 2, 2011 01:08
|
|
|
In photoshop when I turn on "show grid" and try to draw it sorta distorts the drawing along the grid lines so it all gets sorta jaggedity. Anyone know how to fix this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 01:07
|
|
|
Is there any way to transfer a photo to illustration/watercolor board? Also, Does dipping ink hold up or work on canvas at all?
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 01:26
|
|
|
Raenir Salazar posted:In photoshop when I turn on "show grid" and try to draw it sorta distorts the drawing along the grid lines so it all gets sorta jaggedity. Turn off 'snap to grid'. NESguerilla posted:Is there any way to transfer a photo to illustration/watercolor board? i.There's a ton several methods. For what purpose though, that would help determine which. ii. Primed canvas, sure. Raw? Uhhh.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 01:42
|
|
|
SynthOrange posted:i.There's a ton several methods. For what purpose though, that would help determine which. I would like to transfer pieces of a photo on to an illustration board. There will likely be paint or ink underneath it. The methods I have seen involve canvas and water which would destroy the board underneath. I am considering just doing this project on canvas but I really prefer using watercolor to acrylic paint. Hence the ink question because I don't mind using ink. Basically I want to get the ink from a photo onto a board without destroying everything underneath.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 03:03
|
|
|
NESguerilla posted:I would like to transfer pieces of a photo on to an illustration board. There will likely be paint or ink underneath it. The methods I have seen involve canvas and water which would destroy the board underneath. I am considering just doing this project on canvas but I really prefer using watercolor to acrylic paint. Hence the ink question because I don't mind using ink. You could try tape transfers. Press your image into a couple of strips of packaging tape, wet the paper the image is printed on, then rub the paper off. It takes five minutes and then you just have to wait for it to dry. After that you can just apply it to the surface you are working on as the tape will still be sticky, but for the best adhesion put some gel medium under and over it to completely seal it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 19:51
|
|
|
Interesting. So the ink will actually stick to the tape and come off onto a new surface? Edit: looks like the tape comes with it. Very cool, I'm looking to have the image directly on the board though. veni veni veni fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Oct 3, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2011 19:59
|
|
|
Hi guys - Illustrator advice needed. Does any of you know how to turn an object inward - like in photoshop, ctrl-click n' dragging a corner in transform mode will turn your object three dimensionally'ish. I need to align something on a book cover, but the book is slightly turned such as this one here: http://www.vectorarts.net/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/old-book.jpg, and I can't for the life of me find the way to do it in AI. I would really appreciate any help. VVV Thanks for the advice. I found a work around by pulling various anchors with the direct selection tool until I somewhat got what I wanted. Death by Cranes fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Oct 10, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2011 13:58
|
|
|
Have the free transform tool and the object selected, or pick it out of the transform menu. If you just have the regular selection tool, it wont do fancy transforms. Combinations of shift, alt and ctrl and holding them before or after you click and which anchors you use also do different things that I cant recall of the top of my head.
|
|
#
?
Oct 9, 2011 14:41
|
|
|
Has anyone stretched their own canvas before? I want to get a friend a very large canvas (maybe 8'x 8') and learned that making the canvas would be much cheaper. Is the frame hard to make, possibly worth buying? Is there anything important I need to learn or read about when stretching canvas? Thanks
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2011 02:04
|
|
|
Does anyone have a good resource, or tutorial, on line weight (in drawing), line thickness etc. in regards to 'where things should be heavier and where things should be lighter'? I can't find one.  Cartoonish or realistic, doesn't matter. I looked in the art resource thread, but I really want something specific on this. People just seem to 'get' where thick and thin lines go. Mine is all over the loving place, and I don't want it to be!Even if someone just simply explains basic crap about line weight to me, that'd be nice. If you don't know what I mean, look at this Mucha: http://i.imgur.com/wpdXn.jpg Thick and thin lines where they're supposed to be.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2011 19:02
|
|
|
John Kricfalusi has a few great posts on his blog regarding line weight and inking. Unfortunately there are a few dead images in the posts but the core of it is still there: part 1 Part 2 Gary Martin had a book out on inking way back when that was really useful called The Art of Comic Book Inking. I highly recommend it- it deals a lot with line weight and lighting as well as more technical stuff. Looks like it's on Amazon for cheap. There are two principles I've found to be pretty helpful when drawing regarding line weight. 1: Lines should be thicker on the sides of an object facing away from the light and thinner on the side nearer the light source. 2: Objects nearer the viewer should have a thicker line than objects farther away from the viewer. These aren't set in stone but as a general rule they're pretty helpful. Now I've got my own stupid little question: If I wanted to share a comic book I'm publishing with Something Awful, what would be the best way to go about doing that? Is there a "Goon-made comics" thread? Should I start a thread in BSS? I'm not really looking for critiques, at least at this point, since the art is almost finished, and I don't want to get in trouble for spamming.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2011 01:06
|
|
|
the party god posted:Does anyone have a good resource, or tutorial, on line weight (in drawing), line thickness etc. in regards to 'where things should be heavier and where things should be lighter'? I can't find one. Have you tried using micron pens with different weights? You can get lines ranging from whispy thin to giant sharpie with those. In regards to weighting lines, consider how much you want a feature to stand out and weight accordingly. For example a nose sticks out the most at the bottom and is flush with the rest of the face at the top. If you use the same line weight around the entire nose it's going to screw up the depth and make it look totally off. You could make a heavy line at the bottom where it sticks out the most and have it gradually fade in to nothing towards the top. I don't know if that is a good example. I'm not great at explaining things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2011 03:10
|
|
|
Is there a button I can press to send the eye-dropped color straight into the selected swatch folder? I'm sick of clicking-and-dragging. edit: oh, this is illustrator btw raging bullwinkle fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Oct 27, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2011 04:59
|
|
|
the party god posted:Does anyone have a good resource, or tutorial, on line weight (in drawing), line thickness etc. in regards to 'where things should be heavier and where things should be lighter'? I can't find one. Nick Cross, a student of John K, has this great tutorial: http://pyatyletka.blogspot.com/2006/03/inking.html It shows the hierarchical thought process very well. I also struggle with inking. I think about this tutorial every single day, to remind myself to PLAN how I'm going to approach inking before I even touch anything. My normal instinct is to just stab away, making every line have a huge variation, going from hairline to huge in the middle and back. This feels good in the moment, but it results in a piece with no clear statement of form/depth/weight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2011 14:07
|
|
|
Is there a way to make the Default Color Overlay in Photoshop something other than that bright, jarring red? It kills my eyes even if it's only on the screen for a second. I'd much rather change it to black or white.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2011 23:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 13:41 |
|
|
Need some help with some laminating of a DIY scrapbook! GF and I's anniversary was coming up. She likes scrapbooks. So thought neat idea to make her one of our last year and all that.  Decided on giant tagboard heart-like pages since theres tons of pictures. Was going to cut out pics, use scrapbook doubleside tape to attach them, but... My problem: How the hell do I protect such big sheets so the pictures don't get messed up? The hearts are 22" high and 14" wide at the biggest point. There are no single self laminate sheets that big. There are ROLLS of self non-heat laminate that are 16" by 10' for $20 but that would be cut down to around 5 feet since I have to laminate both sides. I checked office max and staples if they could laminate for me and they said they could. OM was $6.75 for trimmed sheets for the size I want, $4.50 per linear foot(??) for non-trim. Staples was $2.50 per linear foot. Better deal looks to be staples laminating them, but it will be roughly 20 half-heart shapes that need to be laminated so it'll run around $80. Does anyone have a better idea how to protect such big sheets? Maybe just laminate the outside cover's of the scrapbook(not middle sheets) since they'd be taking the most wear and tear? Pics for size representations. Looks like poo poo currently, but getting everything organized logistically before I start doing the art of it.   
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2011 21:19
|
|
