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Shouting Melon posted:Sounds about right - the manual for my Street Triple asks for 36/42. My F2 also uses 36/42. That's a 160/60 rear though, which IIRC is what the early SV650s used.
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Apr 19, 2011 16:19
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| # ? May 23, 2024 04:56 |
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 poo poo. plug or replace? plug should work fine right?
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May 28, 2011 18:41
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Plug is fine if you get a good internal type one.
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May 28, 2011 18:54
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Just as a little extra peace of mind:
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Jun 5, 2011 23:53
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Never over 75MPH? Not hugely confidence inspiring! At least I know when I get a puncture and throw the tyre away, I'm not wasting my money. 
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Jun 6, 2011 07:09
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Saga posted:At least I know when I get a puncture and throw the tyre away, I'm not wasting my money. Wait what? To me that says you are. Just use a good quality internal plug/patch. The "75mph" will be a litigation friendly number that the lawyers have approved.
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Jun 6, 2011 09:11
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There are fairly specific instructions as to what can and can't be repaired, what methods should and shouldn't be used, not to use it on a damaged wheel, followed by a specific instruction saying not over 50 in first 24 hours, and then the bit that says not over 75mph, ever. How did you determine which of these bits of guidance were merely inserted by meddling lawyers? To me, it fairly clearly says "we don't think a patch is sufficiently safe to operate with when the tyre is operating beyond this speed". Sure, it's an estimate, but there's no clear reason to assume it's not an informed estimate. In fact, as far as meddling lawyers are concerned, if they are marketing the repair product, you can reliably assume Dunlop has tested it very carefully to avoid ruinous product liability litigation.
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Jun 7, 2011 09:40
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Saga posted:How did you determine which of these bits of guidance were merely inserted by meddling lawyers? I used to work in marketing/branding/copy. Dunlop are a international company selling products with a critical safety factor. It's safe to assume that every single piece of published material out of that company will come under scrutiny from at least one set of legal experts to make sure nothing is going to bite them in the rear end. It's also entirely possible they have a standard guideline on safe speed estimations, it may even be an industry standard. For example, with high pressure air equipment rated for 3000psi, it actually tests to over 5000psi, but the standards dictate that you take the lowest failure pressure, maybe it was 6000psi, and divide by a factor of two. Moreover, it's in Dunlop's interest to encourage you to just replace the tyre, they're not marketing anyone, they just reference two products (of many) that they have tested, and even then, you'd be better off just giving more money to Dunlop. Finally, I still haven't seen a single report, be it unverified forum post or cited report about a properly patched (but otherwise healthy) tyre failing. I have seen a couple of posts about improperly patched tyres leaking slowly though.
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Jun 7, 2011 13:49
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My rear Pilot Road 2CT has been patched for nearly 10k km and frequently goes above 75mph, often for about 2hrs straight on a freeway and it's never given me any grief. Holds pressure fine, and there's no cracks or other nasties in the rubber.
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Jun 7, 2011 14:04
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unfortunately for me, the angle that big fuckin' screw that went in my tire meant no patch for me. I thought it went straight in and bent. What it actually did was go in at an extremely shallow angle which would mean either opening up the hole far too wide to properly patch, or if you fed the plug through the hole at that angle, it would be too squished over to hold, and it would always be trying to lift the patch part off the inside of the tire. Well anyway, the tire had 6000 miles on it, so probably halfway through its life. I just ended up having to get a new tire sooner rather than later (or I got boned).
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Jun 7, 2011 18:04
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Welp, my Q2s are finally done. I managed what looks like 5.5k miles on them after you account for the sprockets, they are past the wear bars and the grooves are almost gone - no issues with grip though. I did find out very quickly that if you accidentally run the front tire backwards it cups the unholy poo poo out of the tire. They really take a lot more lean to find the edges than the other hypersport tires I've ridden (BT016 and Pilot Power). Can't complain, $200 for a set of awesome tires that lasted 5.5k miles on a 110whp 600. I'm going to replace them with Pilot Pures, just for variety reasons. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 14:38
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Report back on the Pures. For some reason they seem to be cheaper than Roads here in Oz, but I've heard they can be a bit vague feedback-wise and not that great in the wet.
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Jun 8, 2011 14:42
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The roads are super expensive here in the US too, I can get a set of 120/180 Pures for pretty close to $200 shipped but the Road 3s are like a hundred more a set. I ride in the wet a few days a year down in here in Phoenix... which reminds me about the Q2: I rode it through the winter in Flagstaff, Az every day - including the days with light snow. Other than it being like a rock and sliding around coming off throttle when the weather was -5*f to 28*f it was ungodly amazing all things considered. I am really impressed with the Q2 in every way.
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Jun 8, 2011 14:47
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Well, the ST tires are generally more expensive up-front but they will last you way longer than a set of sport or hypersport tires. You'll probably get 2-3 times the life out of a set of say PR3's as opposed to regular Powers. I don't like the Pures because they are TOO soft -- well, the sidewall is. What happens is the tire [i]folds in[/u] on itself at high lean angle. This messes up the contact patch, but more importantly (especially for street riding) it completely negates all of the siping on the tires. It's kind of funny that they're so terrible in the rain, since one of the original selling points of the tire was its capability in rain. I'll back BMK4 up on the Q2's though. Holy poo poo do I love that tire. I've never ran them on the street so I can't speak for their street mile life, but they've been my dedicated track tire this year. I switched from NTECs because I got tired of running warmers and I cannot believe how good of a tire the Q2 is. The profile of the tire is so steep that even running a mid-pack intermediate pace, I still have a 1/4" chickenstrip. I was driving hard out of corners, too. One of the main problems that most street tires have when you're riding aggressively is that they overheat quickly and start to get greasy. After doing an entire day at Jennings with 101F ambient temperature, I only had the rear tire spin on me a couple of times when I was pulling out of a corner. That was towards the end of the session, too. Fake edit: This is why the Pures tend to have problems 
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Jun 11, 2011 03:07
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Can anybody recommend a cheap wheel balancer? The ones that adapt to fit on a rear stand seen to be the cheapest and most logical for me, but I'd rather get CA's opinion I make a bad choice.
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Jun 12, 2011 16:58
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Two chairs, a level and paper. A dedicated balancer is unnecessary.
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Jun 12, 2011 20:02
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What do I actually stick through the wheel for it to spin on? Go out and get a metal dowel and lube it up or what?
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Jun 13, 2011 16:30
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Bixington posted:What do I actually stick through the wheel for it to spin on? Go out and get a metal dowel and lube it up or what? The axle?
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Jun 13, 2011 16:38
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Or that. 
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Jun 13, 2011 16:44
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So I've burst my 3rd tube in almost as many years, and I'm getting a bit sick of it. It's always the rear. From what I understand, there's no particular need to run tubes in a bike of my vintage (1980 CB400T with ComStar wheels) as long as the wheels are in good shape and can hold a bead properly without leaking. Do you think I'd be OK to just pop the tube out and get a valve in there and run tubeless? (There's also the psychological factor of this being the 2nd thing that's put my bike out of commission, and Im already miffed that I haven't done a lot of riding this summer too. I have to go for my full M license within the next 2 years and I was hoping to get some good practise in this summer and try to do it in the Fall) Chris Knight fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 29, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 01:01
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Chris Knight posted:So I've burst my 3rd tube in almost as many years, and I'm getting a bit sick of it. It's always the rear. From what I understand, there's no particular need to run tubes in a bike of my vintage (1980 CB400T with ComStar wheels) as long as the wheels are in good shape and can hold a bead properly without leaking. If they can be run tubeless, sure.
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Jul 29, 2011 02:46
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Getting real close to needing to replace my tires. They have an '06 date code and the rear tread is fading fast. I have a set of Conti Road Attacks on there now and I'm really comfortable with the grip I've been getting out of them. I've been debating about replacing them with either the Pilot Road 2's or another set of Road Attacks. I don't mind getting more miles, but not at the expense of grip. Any suggestions?
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Jul 29, 2011 03:09
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xd posted:Getting real close to needing to replace my tires. They have an '06 date code and the rear tread is fading fast. I have a set of Conti Road Attacks on there now and I'm really comfortable with the grip I've been getting out of them. I've been debating about replacing them with either the Pilot Road 2's or another set of Road Attacks. I don't mind getting more miles, but not at the expense of grip. Any suggestions? How many miles have you gotten out of the Road Attacks?
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Jul 29, 2011 03:15
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The Road Attacks were on the the bike in March of '10 when I got it and it had 10k miles on it. Right now it's got almost 17k on it, so I got at least 7k out of them.
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Jul 29, 2011 03:43
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xd posted:The Road Attacks were on the the bike in March of '10 when I got it and it had 10k miles on it. Right now it's got almost 17k on it, so I got at least 7k out of them. Eh, if you're happy with them, that's quite decent life to get out of the tires, why mess with success? I didn't like the feedback on the Contis at all, but that's just personal taste.
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Jul 29, 2011 03:52
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Something that might interest people looking to buy Metzelers; Buy a set of sportecs or roadtecs, get a free pair of Smith sunglasses. http://www.getmetzeler.com/glasses/new_claim.asp?country=USA
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Jul 29, 2011 06:36
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I've found a new love for the Bridgestone BT003, loving the soft carcass. Too bad they don't last very long. 
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Jul 29, 2011 06:46
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I've only put around ~120 miles on Dunlop Q2s and coming from someone whos never used Dunlop tires on anything and always used Michelins i'm very impressed! They stick great, turn in great, and inspire a lot of confidence on the GSX-R 1k I was thinking of sticking with regular Pilot Power tires because they are very inexpensive and last a decent amount of miles, but the Q2s might have me swayed for a little more money.
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Jul 29, 2011 10:05
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Z3n posted:Eh, if you're happy with them, that's quite decent life to get out of the tires, why mess with success? I didn't like the feedback on the Contis at all, but that's just personal taste. My experience was that the back one is actually good. It's the front that sucks. Had a back one on my TRX with a Sportec M1 on the front and it was all good.
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Jul 29, 2011 11:00
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Saga posted:My experience was that the back one is actually good. It's the front that sucks. Had a back one on my TRX with a Sportec M1 on the front and it was all good. I didn't like them at all, front or back, but again, personal taste.  They were better in the wet than the dry on my T595 and that was...interesting.
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Jul 29, 2011 16:46
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Thanks, Z3n. From the looks of it, the air is mostly leaking around the nut that's holding the tube's valve to the rim, but there also happens to be a nice screw sticking out of the tread. Shows that you'll often miss things when you're not checking everything out properly. Oy.
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Jul 30, 2011 19:19
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I put some Michelin Power Road 2's on my bike about a week ago after reading through most of the thread. They replaced what I think were the factory tires that came with my 99 sv650. It feels like the bike is part of the road now, not just driving on it. I haven't used them as much as I'd like because the shop broke whatever sensor controls my Speedo/Odo/trip, this is my first bike and I know I can't judge speed very well yet. Last thing I need is a ticket. Thanks for putting this thread together Z3n, it was very helpful and I would have been pretty lost with out it.
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Jul 31, 2011 01:27
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A bump and a requsted reading from the tire whisperer. This is the old rear on my DRZ, those sides/edges look kind of funky to me..?
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Sep 17, 2011 23:07
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I've got a 1984 Nighthawk 650. The stock tire sizes are are 100/90-19 Front, 130/90-16 Rear. It looks like this isn't a size that is particularly easy to get in a more modern sport-touring type tire. Or if there is, I haven't seen it. I was checking out Michelin and Bridgestones. Anyone have any recommendations on how I should handle this? Edit: I'm really new to this motorcycle thing, looks like I'm going to need bias ply instead of radials? Couple people over on the Nighthawk forums have these Dunlop GT501s. They're pretty much the only tires I could find in the correct size. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Oct 3, 2011 02:32
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Zubumafoo posted:I've got a 1984 Nighthawk 650. The stock tire sizes are are 100/90-19 Front, 130/90-16 Rear. It looks like this isn't a size that is particularly easy to get in a more modern sport-touring type tire. Or if there is, I haven't seen it. I was checking out Michelin and Bridgestones. Anyone have any recommendations on how I should handle this? You don't NEED to, but you probably have to because you won't be able to get anything in radials that matches front and rear and is actually better than a good bias-ply. IMO, for a size combination that obscure (by modern standards), you should just look at model-specific forums to find out what the consensus is on suitable rubber.
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Oct 3, 2011 10:18
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Trip report, Pilot Road 3. You know, the ones with the crazy rain sipes. So far excellent, much better feel than the conti sport whatevers I had before (though to be fair they had gotten pretty squared off). Turn in on the michelins was insane, almost too quick at first (maybe it was just me) but seems to have mellowed after a day or 2. Turn in is pretty neutral, could be easier but I am a fan of razor edge unstable turn in feel. Line through corners is excellent, they hold line well and are very neutral. Feel free to let go of the bars. I had to keep constant pressure with my contis to maintain a line. I can't speak on wear yet. In the wet they have been good, surefooted so far. But I don't really push it in the wet. I'm sure there is a load of grip there. They seem to warm up quick/stick well when still cool. Overall I'm a happy camper. Bike is a 01 B12S.
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Oct 4, 2011 16:23
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I guess I'll post an update. I ended up getting the pilot road 2's in early august. The grip has been comparable to the road attacks they replaced. Much easier to turn in since they haven't been worn flat in the middle. Unlike Zen, I didn't really notice any difference in the road feedback between the two tires. Just happy to not be riding on 5 year old rubber. I would consider either tire in the future, whatever is cheaper.
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Oct 6, 2011 00:25
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Help help I am a nub. I cracked an engine cover and got oil on my rear tire. I'd quite like to be able to clean the tire up and keep using it, because it's an almost-new Supercorsa. Is that a thing that can happen? Will scrubbing it with soap and water do the trick, or will the oil have soaked in and somehow ruined the carcass?
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Oct 7, 2011 03:57
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How long has the oil been sitting on the tire? If it's only been there for a few minutes then you will be okay washing it down with a detergent. If it's been sitting for a while (more than an hour or two), the rubber is going to have absorbed some of the oil. You would probably be okay commuting on it but I wouldn't do any aggressive riding on it.
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Oct 7, 2011 04:02
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| # ? May 23, 2024 04:56 |
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-Inu- posted:How long has the oil been sitting on the tire? If it's only been there for a few minutes then you will be okay washing it down with a detergent. If it's been sitting for a while (more than an hour or two), the rubber is going to have absorbed some of the oil. You would probably be okay commuting on it but I wouldn't do any aggressive riding on it. I wiped it with a rag reasonably quick, but it was hours before I could do a proper wash. It's a track bike, so I guess it'll have to be a new tire.
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Oct 7, 2011 04:13
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