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These are what I used to buy when I was in charge of purchasing safety eyeware at my old job: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CONDOR-Safety-Eyewear-4EY97?Pid=search They're cheap, lightweight, and comfortable (I did have a couple pairs where there was a slight burr on the eyepiece from molding, nothing a quick trim with my pocket knife couldn't fix). Plus they come in tinted versions too. I have both clear and tinted at home and if I'm working, I've got a pair on.
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Sep 25, 2011 01:23
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LordOfThePants posted:These are what I used to buy when I was in charge of purchasing safety eyeware at my old job: I have a pair of these that I am sentimentally attached to, thanks for finding my replacements before I destroy them.
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Oct 4, 2011 03:29
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oxbrain posted:Now that I'm wearing them all day every day, my 5 year old sears safety glasses just aren't cutting it. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Oct 4, 2011 04:22
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Since we are on the topic of eye protection, maybe someone can help me out. Are there any good safety glasses/goggles/etc. that are good for someone who has to wear prescription glasses? I have to wear glasses 24/7, and due to my weirdo eyes, I cannot stand wearing contacts. Lasik is an option down the road, but don't really have the money for it now. I have a pair of prescription lenses in an OSHA rated frame, but they are uncomfortable and incredibly dorky looking. I'm hoping there are some kind if slipover type thing out there that can work.
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Oct 4, 2011 04:34
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You can buy side shields for prescription frames fairly easily. Pretty much everyone I knew either did that with their normal prescription glasses (which isn't up to book standard, but few cared unless there was an incident) or had a work pair of ANSI rated frame and lenses. How likely is your employer to eat the cost?
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Oct 4, 2011 04:42
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themachine posted:Since we are on the topic of eye protection, maybe someone can help me out. Are there any good safety glasses/goggles/etc. that are good for someone who has to wear prescription glasses? I have to wear glasses 24/7, and due to my weirdo eyes, I cannot stand wearing contacts. Lasik is an option down the road, but don't really have the money for it now. I have a pair of prescription lenses in an OSHA rated frame, but they are uncomfortable and incredibly dorky looking. I'm hoping there are some kind if slipover type thing out there that can work. I just use a full face shield. I have the same problem, but with respirators. The top part that goes over the bridge of the nose is right where the pads on the glasses want to be. I think I'm using the 3M 6000 series right now, and I just make do with the pads resting on top of the respirator but it's not ideal. Are there any better options?
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Oct 4, 2011 16:52
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I just use a full face shield. My respirator: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Health/Safety/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LES9MG812H2_nid=9WCT6KC8GRbeF3RH7CD92Ngl My filters: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...8BC31gv%29&rt=d My faceshield: http://www.jacksonsafety.com/linkdetails.cfm?groupid=3002806 I wear prescription glasses only as well. I should really get some OSHA frames/lenses + side shields.
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Oct 5, 2011 08:42
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Do you know what the difference is between models 7501, 7502, and 7503? Small, medium and large?
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Oct 5, 2011 19:16
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That's what I've gathered.
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Oct 5, 2011 19:42
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Nerobro posted:I wear paintball goggles. Little or not fog. They'll stop some serious flying poo poo. And they can be had cheap. Far too heavy and cumbersome to wear for 10 hours on end. I wound up with these. The frame is a bit thinner than the picture shows and it's clear instead of black, they're very light, and I haven't had any issues with fogging yet. The 3m 7500 series is the best respirator I've ever worn.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:08
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LordOfThePants posted:These are what I used to buy when I was in charge of purchasing safety eyeware at my old job: This design rocks. They're all I've worn for the past 3 years at my job. I generally wear a pair of the tinted ones when I'm outside, and a pair of the clear ones in the shop. I keep a few extra pairs in my locker so I can have nice clear goggles under a welding helmet and I don't have to keep taking them off. Work stopped buying the condor/AQ brand ones and switched to shittier square glasses, so I've been buying these. http://www.amazon.com/DPG54-1C-Performance-Lightweight-Protective-Wraparound/dp/B000FPANVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317867339&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/DPG54-2C-Performance-Lightweight-Protective-Wraparound/dp/B000FP8IGS/ref=pd_sim_hi5 Dewalt branding, but it's nice to have some distinguishing colors on my glasses so I know which are mine.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:19
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GD_American posted:You can buy side shields for prescription frames fairly easily. Pretty much everyone I knew either did that with their normal prescription glasses (which isn't up to book standard, but few cared unless there was an incident) or had a work pair of ANSI rated frame and lenses. Yeah, I was looking into some side shields to just put on my normal glasses, but am having a hard time finding any for some reason. It is just about 100% certain that any equipment like this has to come out of my pocket. Like I said before, I do have an OSHA rated pair of prescription glasses with side shields, but they are not as comfortable as my normal glasses. Seems like adding side shields to my normal glasses would probably be best.
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Oct 6, 2011 03:43
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Has anyone used one of these alaskan sawmills before? http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317916128&sr=8-1 Do they work well? I'm afraid my Poulan chainsaw might not have enough power but a coworker is taking down some black walnut trees and was just planning on burning the wood! I don't own a band saw and even if I did I doubt I could convince other people to help me process the logs quickly enough so I was considering going this route.
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Oct 6, 2011 16:57
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Never used a chainsaw mill but just from watching the video it looks slow and tedious. Do you have any sawmills nearby that would cut it up for you? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjNa7HbzLVA
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Oct 6, 2011 20:29
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I would call the local hardwood dealer(s) and ask if they know of any portable mill operators in the area. Smaller dealers and mills will often do a cost-sharing with you on the lumber (you keep some, they sell some) to cover the cost of processing the logs.
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Oct 6, 2011 20:47
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Anubis posted:Has anyone used one of these alaskan sawmills before? http://www.amazon.com/Granberg-Chain-Mill-Model-G777/dp/B000AMFY90/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317916128&sr=8-1 Ideally you need a chainsaw with a lot of rear end for chainsaw mills. I've done it with a Stihl 440 and 660 and it works fine, although it's still not terribly fast. Ripping with a chainsaw tends to clog up, get fairly hot and take quite a while. It makes some gigantic strings of wood rather than chips.
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Oct 6, 2011 20:56
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Hypnolobster posted:Ideally you need a chainsaw with a lot of rear end for chainsaw mills. I've done it with a Stihl 440 and 660 and it works fine, although it's still not terribly fast. Ripping with a chainsaw tends to clog up, get fairly hot and take quite a while. It makes some gigantic strings of wood rather than chips. Hmmm, I have a 46cc 20" Poulan. If the blades are sharp and time isn't really a huge issue (as long as it's not taking an hour per 6' or anything stupid like that) do you think I could handle 10-12" wide logs? I know I'd be way under powered for 16-18" but if I could even do a 10" wide run that would make it worth my while. The portable mill companies aren't really interested in coming out unless they are getting a couple hundred board feet. This thing wasn't that huge but it would be plenty big enough for me to get a few dozen board feet of hardwood out of it of plus I'd have a tool for next time I want to do something like this. (And having more tools is always better, right?)
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Oct 7, 2011 00:58
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Anubis posted:Hmmm, I have a 46cc 20" Poulan. If the blades are sharp and time isn't really a huge issue (as long as it's not taking an hour per 6' or anything stupid like that) do you think I could handle 10-12" wide logs? I know I'd be way under powered for 16-18" but if I could even do a 10" wide run that would make it worth my while. That should do it if you go slow. You're going to need to make really really sure that the teeth are good and sharp, rakers are right and the bar oiler adjustment (if it's got one) is wide open. Ripping really is pretty hard on saws, and 10' cut will really heat things up.
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Oct 7, 2011 01:19
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I'm going to be painting my living room soon and I have two windows with trim around them, crown moulding, two entrances with trim as well, and trim all along the floor. What's the best product to use to keep from getting paint on the trim or having to tape for hours on end? I'm looking for first-hand experience, not "it worked on this infomercial". I've seen flat pads with rollers, rollers with guards, metal edges, sponges with guards, brushes with rollers, etc. . . What actually works as advertised?
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Oct 7, 2011 04:53
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ASSTASTIC posted:Has anyone seen these before?: For 7 or 8 dollars at home depot you can get brackets that let you use whatever sized 2x4 for the legs and the centers.
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Oct 7, 2011 06:37
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Blistex posted:I'm going to be painting my living room soon and I have two windows with trim around them, crown moulding, two entrances with trim as well, and trim all along the floor. What's the best product to use to keep from getting paint on the trim or having to tape for hours on end? I'm looking for first-hand experience, not "it worked on this infomercial". Pretty much nothing but good technique andmpatience, from what I've found. I wasted money on a bunch of those types of things too, and none of them do any better than just being careful and going slow. Sorry, I know that not what you wanted to hear, but save yourself the money - or spend it on touch up trim paint...
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Oct 7, 2011 12:25
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jackyl posted:Pretty much nothing but good technique andmpatience, from what I've found. I wasted money on a bunch of those types of things too, and none of them do any better than just being careful and going slow. Sorry, I know that not what you wanted to hear, but save yourself the money - or spend it on touch up trim paint... NOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo! Tape! I hate it! I hate it! I've done 2 rooms and used 5 rolls already.
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Oct 7, 2011 13:25
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Blistex posted:I'm going to be painting my living room soon and I have two windows with trim around them, crown moulding, two entrances with trim as well, and trim all along the floor. What's the best product to use to keep from getting paint on the trim or having to tape for hours on end? I'm looking for first-hand experience, not "it worked on this infomercial". Joining the chorus and saying tape and technique. The foam pads with rollers look neat, but then you realize that by dipping the pad into paint the rollers also get wet and you end up with roller tracks everywhere. Then you're back to putting tape on. Honestly you're best with either the standard blue tape (I've heard good things about the green frog tape, too) and a small, angled Purdy brush and take your time. Make sure to remove that tape as soon as possible, too. I find painting to be 1/3 prep, 1/3 painting, and 1/3 clean-up. None of them being fun, but then what do we expect when the first four letters of painting are P-A-I-N?
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Oct 7, 2011 15:22
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Blistex posted:I've seen flat pads with rollers, rollers with guards, metal edges, sponges with guards, brushes with rollers, etc. . . I almost never use tape, just a good brush and patience. I use a good angled cutting brush; spend at least like $20 on your cutting brush. Then just take your time and be steady and careful. The extra time you spend painting is nothing compared to the horrible pain the rear end that is taping, un-taping and touching up when the taping has failed.
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Oct 7, 2011 18:07
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I read up on painting a good cut-in line with a quality brush and never could get a straight edge. What I did do was buy one of those brush paint pads with rollers and it worked like a dream and gave me nice crisp easy lines. The trick was to never dip the pad in paint. I would sop a loaded brush and brush the paint on to the pad. Once I got the hang of loading the pad with paint via brush, it went pretty quick where I could cut in a 16 foot ceiling/wall edge on one stroke and I kept the rollers clean which is critical to not loving things up. The only downside to the pad/roller combo was that the paint line was about 1/16 to 1/8 from the edge so the corner was not fully painted. I didn't care as I still had a straight line. This is the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...C2DK7TGB2X755YC
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Oct 7, 2011 18:38
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Get one of these brushes for cutting in the trim http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...=1&ddkey=Search The stubby rubber handle makes it really easy to hold and only cost $5.86.
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Oct 9, 2011 11:43
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Error 404 NpH posted:Get one of these brushes for cutting in the trim Brushes are not really an option. I'm about as steady as the ocean floor off Japan.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:14
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Error 404 NpH posted:Get one of these brushes for cutting in the trim
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Oct 9, 2011 15:42
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I need some cordless power tools, pulled the trigger on these dewalt units in 36: any reasons why I should cancel or return? what is this posted:hey guys I just picked up some cordless drills/saws for a project
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Oct 11, 2011 19:10
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Jesus the 28v DeWalt drill I used at work was too heavy. I can't imagine the 36v. How much did the set run you?
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Oct 11, 2011 20:19
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Altogether around $1000 Two chargers, Three 36V batteries. Also includes some dumb flashlight I won't use.
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Oct 11, 2011 20:23
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I can't say without knowing your intended use but it might be too much tool for one project. If you're making a living with your tools it's one thing, but for DIY...
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Oct 11, 2011 20:31
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I build stuff all the time, it's no big deal, and some decent cordless tools have been needed probably for a while. I'd rather buy a solid, well constructed tool once, than buy and re-buy several poor quality tools. My only concern was that deWalt was phasing out their 36v line in favor of the 20v line. The price is reasonable, I like deWalt in general, and you can buy batteries online for sort-of-reasonable prices.
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Oct 11, 2011 20:48
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what is this posted:I build stuff all the time, it's no big deal, and some decent cordless tools have been needed probably for a while. My main fear with buying into any cordless line is the battery life/availability. Meaning, it always freaks me out buying too many tools into a line, then finding out the manufacturer doesn't make batteries for that tool anymore or moved away from that battery type completely. Currently, I've got mostly Hitachi and I love the 18v Li-Ion stuff I have. I've been piecing my set together, which is not as cost effective, but lets me chose what I need it for. I currently have a 18v hammer drill and 18v sawzall. I'm probably going to pick up an angle grinder eventually as well.
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Oct 11, 2011 23:12
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ASSTASTIC posted:My main fear with buying into any cordless line is the battery life/availability. Meaning, it always freaks me out buying too many tools into a line, then finding out the manufacturer doesn't make batteries for that tool anymore or moved away from that battery type completely. This was a few pages back, but it's mostly the cheap brands that switch batteries, then stop all production and don't license them to third party battery manufacturers (forcing you to buy all new cordless tools). Mastercraft in Canada did this, but they have been sticking with their new battery line for nearly a decade now, so maybe they've given up on that. Dewalt is really good for making sure their batteries and chargers are still available for their older models. Not sure about Hitachi, but I imagine there they either keep making the older ones, or have a 3rd party doing it.
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Oct 12, 2011 01:48
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what is this posted:I build stuff all the time, it's no big deal, and some decent cordless tools have been needed probably for a while. My take on cordless tools is that they are not investment quality. Even the best will eventually crap out or be hopelessly obsolete. I agree buying something better than a Harbor Freight set but $1000 is too much.
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Oct 12, 2011 04:53
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Right, but since I need cordless or a generator, I went what seemed like nice cordless stuff. Wasn't trying to start a cord/cordless war.
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Oct 12, 2011 05:03
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what is this posted:Right, but since I need cordless or a generator, I went what seemed like nice cordless stuff. If you have the money, then what you posted is pretty much the best stuff you can get. DeWalt (in my experience) lasts forever. Then again you can get all that stuff for 1/2 as much and it will still be decent quality stuff. How much do you want to spend?
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Oct 12, 2011 05:06
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So, I found this guy selling a 60 gallon air compressor for $100, and he just slashed it down to $75. Now, I guess he replaced the original motor with something smaller, and it would need a larger one to get back to full power. So any ideas how hard/expensive would it be to get a motor and install it on this? Any good recommendations for a motor while we're at it. Ad in question: http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/2631858618.html
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Oct 12, 2011 05:29
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I like the idea of a reel mower, but i'm wondering how effective they are in practice. I would love to not have to gently caress around with gas or batteries/cords, and being able to mow at 6am without pissing off the neighbors appeals to me. However I'll be mowing a quarter acre that isn't totally level, and the wife isn't on board with mulching the clippings. Has anyone got a convincing argument in either direction? I'd specifically be looking at this fiskars model because you can buy a basket attachment to catch clippings: http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-6201-18-Inch-5-Blade-Momentum/dp/B0045VL1OO/ref=sr_1_6?s=garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1318395511&sr=1-6 It's at $190 now, but i've seen it for as little as $125 on amazon, and I have have amazon credit i can use (and a prime account.)
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Oct 12, 2011 06:02
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