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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I've been using Krylon Flat White, the normal non-primery paint, and there's very little in the can. It took me two(!) cans to prime 10 Guardsmen, a Sentinel, a HW team, and part of a Gundam. A single can of Tamiya White like I was using before could easily have done that and they're tiny. Are you not shaking the can up or something? That's crazy.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:33 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 11:53 |
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I've been using Krylon Flat White, the normal non-primery paint, and there's very little in the can. It took me two(!) cans to prime 10 Guardsmen, a Sentinel, a HW team, and part of a Gundam. A single can of Tamiya White like I was using before could easily have done that and they're tiny. Yeah the Krylon primers have ample paint in them. For applying it I tend to just flick the nozzle briefly from a few angles until I have good coverage. This way I never lose any details and get a nice smooth even coat.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:34 |
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Someone posted a picture here (or in the 40k thread) with an ork he/she painted by basing the whole thing yellow first. Do anyone have the recipe? I tried doing the same, but the skin was way to yellow/light after one layer of green wash. The skin on the picture looked pretty dark, I was wondering how many layers of green wash it takes (or badab black?) and if I'm just better of doing dark green, lighter green and green wash.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:40 |
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Fix posted:Are you not shaking the can up or something? That's crazy. I dunno. Maybe? It's extremely dusty, far more than anything else I've ever used. After priming all that stuff, I noticed my work area was suspiciously chalkier than the rest of the apartment. Just giant rolling clouds of dust coming out of my spray booth, really weird.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:47 |
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:I dunno. Maybe? It's extremely dusty, far more than anything else I've ever used. After priming all that stuff, I noticed my work area was suspiciously chalkier than the rest of the apartment. Just giant rolling clouds of dust coming out of my spray booth, really weird. Yeah that sounds like you aren't shaking it enough. It takes a good minute of fairly vigorous shaking for a can of spray paint. You should hear the agitator rolling about freely before you are done shaking.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:55 |
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Yeah, shake the poo poo out of that thing. Two minutes solid the first time you use the can is my rule, and two full minutes is always longer than you think.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 21:56 |
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I've got some free time these days and thought about getting back into the hobby and finishing my endless backlog of models. I noticed GW doesn't sell paint sets anymore, any suggestions on where I can get a deal or am I just stuck. Also I'd love some advice on this fire dragon. It almost works but his gun doesn't look quite right.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 23:01 |
Oops, looks like I've just been using regular black/white Krylon for my models and not primer! Oh well, it seems to work pretty good anyway.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 23:31 |
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I use the regular as well, I think it doesnt bond as well so you have to make sure you varnish pretty heavily for metal models. Id forgotten how easily damaged paint is on metal models until I painted my skorne, Ive got a couple hours of touchups to do on that army already.
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# ? Oct 6, 2011 23:38 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I use the regular as well, I think it doesnt bond as well so you have to make sure you varnish pretty heavily for metal models. Id forgotten how easily damaged paint is on metal models until I painted my skorne, Ive got a couple hours of touchups to do on that army already. This is especially the case with Warmahordes models since they tend to be: 1. Pointier 2. Heavier Than your typical miniature. The lighter metal models (i.e. everything else) don't seem to have the same problem so as long as you use good primer. When I did my 4 Skorne guys I coated them with a massive number of coats of gloss varnish and it seems to have sealed them in properly. I transported them in the cupholders in my car the other day and they survived with nary a scratch despite Hexeris and two cyclops having an orgy.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 00:08 |
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I think part of my problem is using krylon flat black as my primer, its not nearly as tough. I also paint in really thin layers and that tends to not be very tough either.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 00:53 |
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A while ago I posted about spray woodstain, which seems to be something just made up for their website because gently caress if I can find it in hardware stores to try aerosol dipping. On a brighter note, I found a textured shipping sleeve that gave me a basing idea for my Sisters.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 01:11 |
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That's fantastic.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 01:14 |
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Does anyone ever find that sometimes primer can go on a bit grainy? Is this because of putting down too much primer on the mini or because the primer was a lovely brand?
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 01:31 |
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Could be caused by lovely primer, the end of a can, or simply not shaking it enough.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 01:48 |
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Its drying in the air probably. Try getting a little closer. Moths, what kind of packaging is that? It's perfect.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 01:50 |
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We got some new equipment at work, so I'll grab any more that I see. I think it's one of the recycled shipping bags that HP uses. It has this address on it anyway. It feels like Nerf, but works great with plastic model cement. Unpainted, they look like this:
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 03:10 |
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Oxford Comma posted:Does anyone ever find that sometimes primer can go on a bit grainy? Is this because of putting down too much primer on the mini or because the primer was a lovely brand? Also humidity can be a factor.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 04:10 |
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It could also be a day with a consonant in it. gently caress aerosol paints.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 04:41 |
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Here I was bitching about the crazy cool freehand on the studio Dreadfleet ships the other day, and how my poo poo would look plain and boring, go to start assembling the ships from my box, and those fukken things are sculpted on GW is a pretty hosed up company sometimes, but holy poo poo can they make some badass models lately. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Oct 7, 2011 |
# ? Oct 7, 2011 06:17 |
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Hal Gill username posted:Does anyone have any experience (good experience!) with Vallejo metallics? I'm using Vallejo metalics pretty much exclusively for my Warmachine models and I'm loving them, particularly the brass variants. They do need a little watering down (particularly their gunmetal) or application with a damp brush.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 06:29 |
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So who's tried that Liquid Green Stuff GW's pumping out? How's it work?
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 08:58 |
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Mishra posted:Also I'd love some advice on this fire dragon. It almost works but his gun doesn't look quite right. First, can you get some better pictures on this? Second, that's an amazingly retro color scheme/paint job you've got going on. Third, I think the gun doesn't look right because it's a solid block of blue. I'd pick out the gemstones on it, and paint the ammo pod and ridgy-grippy bit a different color. Man, are those guns phallic.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 09:12 |
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Eyespy posted:I'm using Vallejo metalics pretty much exclusively for my Warmachine models and I'm loving them, particularly the brass variants. They do need a little watering down (particularly their gunmetal) or application with a damp brush. Hmmm, thanks - I'll try watering 'em down a touch and see if that improves things.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 14:15 |
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:First, can you get some better pictures on this? Second, that's an amazingly retro color scheme/paint job you've got going on. Third, I think the gun doesn't look right because it's a solid block of blue. I'd pick out the gemstones on it, and paint the ammo pod and ridgy-grippy bit a different color. Yea, put a different color on the ammo pod and maybe the nozzle thing, it will really serve to break up the weapon and make it look better. Then paint all your gems, its a pain but it does make a lot of difference. Except that row of tiny ones on the helmet, gently caress those.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 14:43 |
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As some of you may or may not recall, I own a very large Saim Hann Eldar army. I've had alot of fun painting it, Red is the best. Recently I came across some pretty pictures of Biel-Tan. They have made me want to do an entire Biel-Tan contingent for my Eldar Army. Considering I just got a pair of super heavy tanks from FW... Anyway, to business. Here is my test model, first time I've tried to crystalline effect too. I would like your experienced eyes to go over my colour choice, techniques and general feedback please. I'm going to be doing this army as a real showcase army, and probably not so much of a gaming army.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 15:16 |
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God drat, that is an awesomely painted space elf. Why do I even read this thread anymore, it's just depressing.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 15:20 |
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I'm 90% finished on my first model. I'm going for a Fallen color scheme based on the CSM codex with black and silver shoulders and dark green armor: I've been watching a few videos over and over, most notably awesomepaintjob.com on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDPWYLvlcsA So here is where I'm at after a primer->Chaos black base coat->Gretchen (sp) green wash->black ink wash-> Gretchen Green/Dark Angel green mixed->Black Ink Wash->Dark Angel green hard line highlights: I haven't started the heavy bolter yet, not really sure if I'm going to paint the red on it like most DA weapons or not. The thing I cant decide is what to do with the embellishments on the chest, around the lower leg armor and gauntlets, whether to leave them as they are, a 2x ink washed Grethcen green without much contrast, paint them Chaos Black, or do a Chaos Black/Chainmail mix so the have a little luster but not to obnoxious.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 15:30 |
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crime fighting hog posted:So who's tried that Liquid Green Stuff GW's pumping out? How's it work? This sounds quite sexual.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 16:04 |
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crime fighting hog posted:So who's tried that Liquid Green Stuff GW's pumping out? How's it work? It's pretty amazing but a little bit finicky to use. It shrinks / settles in, so the technique I've used is to water it down so it's like icing and just lather it over whatever I'm filling. It takes like 10 minutes to set, so after around 5-7 I'll just grab one of those elmer boards / files and smooth it off. Leaves the remaineder in the hole.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 16:25 |
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PaintVagrant posted:I use the regular as well, I think it doesnt bond as well so you have to make sure you varnish pretty heavily for metal models. Id forgotten how easily damaged paint is on metal models until I painted my skorne, Ive got a couple hours of touchups to do on that army already. A friend of mine does some pretty awesome paint jobs (on-par or better than the ones in this thread and the ones in the Warhammer rulebook) he swears by using flat black or flat white paint, and NOT primer for painting his models. Matter of fact, when I called him asking which brand of primer to get because all I could find was grey automotive primer he said "gently caress that, go to Walmart and get cheapo Krylon flat black and white" I was already at walmart so that kinda worked. He glues a slotted dowel to the figure and then dips his models in varnish when they're done, spinning them slightly to air-dry them. The results work (apparantly) flawlessly.
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 17:10 |
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Is there any difference between chaos black and undercoat black (the one you get in the paint set)? I assume there isn't but since I'm doing black templars getting black right is pretty important. Someone in this or the other 40k thread said they spent a year painting their black templar squad and then posted a picture of them, they looked really nice, does anyone know what picture I mean? Cheers!
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# ? Oct 7, 2011 22:19 |
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Red Herring posted:
It's gorgeous, of course you already know that. The only thing I'd address are the two gold studs on the torso, my eye is drawn straight to them, away from the other arguably more important areas of the model. Wether you address this with toning them down, or even going the other way and turning them into gems perhaps?
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 00:06 |
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Hey, so I want yall'z opinion: should I change the way I do my Slaanesh terminators from this: to this? Color wise my pink is more red and dark. MSP told me to highlight the black before I decide. Was not sure if you guys liked the pink/black emp children or the pink/violet that guys has going on...
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 00:33 |
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Your ones look more visually appealing to me, but the other ones look more slaaneshi. Your choice, really.
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 00:39 |
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WhiteOutMouse, I prefer your first image, and to be perfectly honest the second figure I just end up looking at the forward chin guard. On the first figure I'd do something a bit lighter for the tusks as they seem to be something that should stand out a little from the rest of the armor. Perhaps that same brass/gold color you've accented the gun with.
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 01:13 |
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Hey, so I want yall'z opinion: I prefer the second picture myself. But do what MSP said, finish the first scheme before deciding because the finishing touches always transform a model.
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 01:15 |
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i've gone insane (and blind). I can't remember if I mentioned, but we're having a painting contest at work (Vigil Games) and I've decided to pull out all the stops (or at the very least push myself in areas I've not yet tried) it's already been smoothed from that picture, so it looks 10x better
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 07:08 |
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Yeast posted:It's gorgeous, of course you already know that. The only thing I'd address are the two gold studs on the torso, my eye is drawn straight to them, away from the other arguably more important areas of the model. Now that you mention it, I do notice that. I don't know what I can do about it, maybe go with a more silver / electrum? They're flat discs. If I had though about this before I undercoated him I could have made gems. What do you suggest? I don't go back and change this particular one now, but future ones I will. Here is the completed model btw Next one in the line: Bum shot: Red Herring fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Oct 8, 2011 |
# ? Oct 8, 2011 07:14 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 11:53 |
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:I prefer the second picture myself. But do what MSP said, finish the first scheme before deciding because the finishing touches always transform a model. Tying up the votes for 'second scheme'. I guess the question is, what made you second guess the thing, WOM? Do you not like the black?
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# ? Oct 8, 2011 08:19 |