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wilkenm posted:Finally got around to changing ECU maps on my Street Triple. I've been riding around on the stock map with Akrapoic slip-ons for a month or so, and things didn't feel quite right. So I used the latest Triumph supplied map for their Arrow slip-ons, and things feel 1000% better now. TuneECU rocks, huh? I paid about half that for my cable but I had to wait 2 weeks for it to get here from China.
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Oct 3, 2011 09:07
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M4rg4r1ne posted:scooters.jpg
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Oct 3, 2011 12:35
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Chain was a little loose on the R6 so I adjusted it. Wow the lock nuts are...um... completely in the wrong place. I guess I didn't tighten them enough last time. I spent the next 20 minutes fiddling with the chain tension. drat, too tight! drat, too loose! Finally got it on the looser end of spec and I felt much less vibration on the ride into work this morning. I guess I better keep an eye on those adjustment lock nuts.
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Oct 3, 2011 14:36
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Crayvex posted:Chain was a little loose on the R6 so I adjusted it. Wow the lock nuts are...um... completely in the wrong place. I guess I didn't tighten them enough last time. I spent the next 20 minutes fiddling with the chain tension. drat, too tight! drat, too loose! Finally got it on the looser end of spec and I felt much less vibration on the ride into work this morning. Did you have problems because the amount of slack isn't consistent? Check it in multiple places, your chain might have stretched and be toast.
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Oct 3, 2011 15:10
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It was more a matter of me being stupid. (Four turns out... crap too tight. Two turns back in... crap too loose. Kick the tire forward etc.)
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Oct 3, 2011 15:21
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Spent the weekend cleaning & adjusting the chain, spraying the exhaust shroud black and installing heated grips.
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Oct 3, 2011 19:52
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Pope Mobile posted:Spent the weekend cleaning & adjusting the chain, spraying the exhaust shroud black and installing heated grips. After installing my first set of heated grips, I realized what a moron I'd been for riding years without them. Best $30 mod ever.
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Oct 3, 2011 20:14
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I've been thinking about heated grips, it's maddening I haven't installed them and I live in upstate New York. What's a good brand?
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Oct 3, 2011 20:18
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the walkin dude posted:I've been thinking about heated grips, it's maddening I haven't installed them and I live in upstate New York. What's a good brand? I have Symtec heaters and they work pretty well. with a toggle switch http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/16011.html or, with a round rocker switch http://www.casporttouring.com/cst/motorcycle/16025.html
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Oct 3, 2011 20:29
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Z3n posted:After installing my first set of heated grips, I realized what a moron I'd been for riding years without them. Best $30 mod ever. Seriously. Today was the first day in a month I got to work and my fingers weren't frozen. I have Moose Racing heated grips. They were $50, but are the same as linked above.
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Oct 3, 2011 21:00
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Is there any heated grips with an OEM looking switch with a mount that goes onto the handlebar? For a reasonable price? I live in Texas so it never really gets too cold, but I also only have summer type gloves.. gets cold around end of the year.. I get off the freeway early on the way to work so I can stop at some lights and put my hands on the engine to warm them a little..
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Oct 3, 2011 21:12
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Depends on what you consdier "reasonable". There are the kind that have been listed so far which come with either a standard toggle or round rocker switch that is usually mounted into the fairing. Then you've got actual replacement grips with the heating elements built in. From what I've seen, the latter kind usually have the switch/mount you're looking for. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PRC_A99-00010&esrc=cj
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Oct 3, 2011 21:57
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GanjamonII posted:Is there any heated grips with an OEM looking switch with a mount that goes onto the handlebar? For a reasonable price? hmmm.... maybe you could do heaters like I linked, but with a switch like this place sells? http://www.epfguzzi.com/SWITCHES.HTM "Another Headlight Switch: This one has a few more features. 3 position switch (off-low-high) as well as momentary (kill) button. All this in a nice slim (20mm wide) package! Includes bullet connectors and wiring instructions. Fits 7/8" handlebars. Manf by: K&S Tech" That would actually give you your high and low heater settings, or you could use one of the cheaper on/off switches.
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Oct 3, 2011 22:27
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the walkin dude posted:That must be retardedly loud
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Oct 3, 2011 22:48
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Raven457 posted:hmmm.... maybe you could do heaters like I linked, but with a switch like this place sells? Oh that is very nice actually.. I might wait a few weeks for when it starts getting proper cold (for texas) but I've already got a relay etc wired up for the USB charger so this should just splice into that easily enough. Thanks!
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Oct 3, 2011 23:00
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I tried riding to work with earbuds in so I could listen to music. It took me five tries to get my helmet on without moving them and then one fell out and it wasn't loud enough at highway speeds anyway. I think some clear tape might be the trick. edit: or these
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Oct 3, 2011 23:00
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Gnaghi posted:I tried riding to work with earbuds in so I could listen to music. It took me five tries to get my helmet on without moving them and then one fell out and it wasn't loud enough at highway speeds anyway. I think some clear tape might be the trick. I'm assuming you have a full face helmet? Before I got in-helmet speakers, I put the earbuds behind in the cheekpads in the gap where the speakers would later go. Positioned properly, I could still hear them with foam earplugs in up to about 70mph.
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Oct 3, 2011 23:05
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Gnaghi posted:I tried riding to work with earbuds in so I could listen to music. It took me five tries to get my helmet on without moving them and then one fell out and it wasn't loud enough at highway speeds anyway. I think some clear tape might be the trick. Those look like a nice cheap compromise between the Etymotics and cheapy earbuds. Although the reviewer is a moron...either he has the most perfectly wrong shaped ear canals or he's using the wrong sized tips on the Etymotics if "they just fall out while he's walking".
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Oct 3, 2011 23:11
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Gnaghi posted:I tried riding to work with earbuds in so I could listen to music. It took me five tries to get my helmet on without moving them and then one fell out and it wasn't loud enough at highway speeds anyway. I think some clear tape might be the trick. Here ya go: http://www.complyfoam.com/ I use these with my Hifiman RE2s, and the setup ends up being as quiet as nice earplugs, with the bonus of wind-free music.
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Oct 3, 2011 23:17
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Edit:^^^Awesome I'm gonna order those. $10 to bring a semblance of usefulness to my regular apple earphones.Pope Mobile posted:I'm assuming you have a full face helmet? Before I got in-helmet speakers, I put the earbuds behind in the cheekpads in the gap where the speakers would later go. Positioned properly, I could still hear them with foam earplugs in up to about 70mph. That's not a bad idea, gonna try that tomorrow. I always use earplugs too and with a sportbike this morning sucked riding with only half an earbud in. Z3n posted:Although the reviewer is a moron...either he has the most perfectly wrong shaped ear canals or he's using the wrong sized tips on the Etymotics if "they just fall out while he's walking". Maybe he's one of those parkour guys. 
Gnaghi fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Oct 3, 2011 23:21
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Gnaghi posted:Edit:^^^Awesome I'm gonna order those. $10 to bring a semblance of usefulness to my regular apple earphones. I have like seven pairs of these that I've acquired over the years (I honestly have no clue why, I've never purchased a pair) and they stay on very nicely inside my full face helmet. I did a teeny bit of trimming on the lower part that sits in front of the ear with a nail file to remove a molding edge, and they don't hurt at all. The sound quality isn't JAWESOME, but they can get very loud, which is what counts when you're inside a helmet at 65, not sound fidelity.
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Oct 4, 2011 00:05
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Found a voicemail on my cell from my insurance company, saying that my policy that expires tomorrow needs to paid in full by Friday if I wish to renew it with them. Even though I sent in my direct deposit authorization info a couple of weeks ago  Looks like I got a call to make first thing tomorrow morning...
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Oct 4, 2011 00:27
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:TuneECU rocks, huh? I paid about half that for my cable but I had to wait 2 weeks for it to get here from China. It's a great piece of software, I wasn't expecting it to be so simple to use. Now I have to resist the urge to start playing with numbers that I don't understand!
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Oct 4, 2011 05:11
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Since I couldn't go riding due because I was slow-cooking a pork roast, I decided to install the Loobman chain oiler I bought a while ago:  Please disregard how filthy my bike is. The chainsaw bar oil I bought to fill it with turned out to be bright loving green. It looks pretty cool, actually.
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Oct 5, 2011 08:30
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Sick of not making any progress on any of my current projects, I got distracted. I pulled out the cb400, yanked the battery and all the wiring from the seat area, and I took a grinder to it.       These tabs are now gone.  Sorry I didn't get any close up shots of the aftermath. http://gnarlywrench.blogspot.com/2011/10/getting-sidetracked.html GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 15:10
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KozmoNaut posted:Loobman chain oiler I really like that. My bike has a lot of nooks and crannies I could hide the reservoir in. Would be very interesting to read about fling-off or grime issues as you get some miles on it!
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Oct 5, 2011 17:01
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Ola posted:I really like that. My bike has a lot of nooks and crannies I could hide the reservoir in. Would be very interesting to read about fling-off or grime issues as you get some miles on it! I'm still getting it adjusted so it oils both sides of the sprocket evenly and I'm debating supergluing the hose to the reservoir and delivery head thingie, it's a bit too easy to rip out and hard to get back in for my taste. Another thing is that the head gets completely soaked with oil when you use it, so if you need to fiddle with it at all, you get real filthy real easy. But for less than 1/5th the price of the cheapest Scottoiler, I'm pretty satisfied so far. The chainsaw bar oil I'm using is a bit thin and runs through very quickly, so the next time I'll probably pick up the cheapest, heaviest oil I can find. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 18:54
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Ola posted:I really like that. My bike has a lot of nooks and crannies I could hide the reservoir in. Would be very interesting to read about fling-off or grime issues as you get some miles on it! It is everywhere, but then again I'm using 10w40 and vigorously so.  The only slight problem I have is that rain gets in and creates white blobs in the oil, but it doesn't hinder the pump so whatever.
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Oct 5, 2011 21:55
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KozmoNaut posted:Since I couldn't go riding due because I was slow-cooking a pork roast, I decided to install the Loobman chain oiler I bought a while ago: That looks really good. So good, I just ordered one! Question though: how does the actual sprocket-oiler-thingy attach to the swingarm? Just a few cable-ties?
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Oct 6, 2011 05:07
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2ndclasscitizen posted:That looks really good. So good, I just ordered one! Question though: how does the actual sprocket-oiler-thingy attach to the swingarm? Just a few cable-ties? You thread a cable tie through that bendy rubber-covered steel thing and attach that to the swingarm, the whole thing only took me like 20 minutes to install and adjust, now I'm just fiddling with the angle and tilt of the head to get even oiling on both sides of the sprocket.
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Oct 6, 2011 08:46
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So after correcting my gently caress ups from the last attempt, I managed to actually build some SS brake lines and install them on the bike. Stunningly, swapping the lines and bleeding them took less than 15 minutes. Bleeding brakes is MUCH easier when you aren't chasing loving leaks. Then I picked up a second tank and took a stab at hammering in knee-dents. They came out pretty good, though a managed to tear the steel in a crease. Some JB weld filled the hole. Spent ages applying and sanding (rinse repeat) Bondo to smooth out the indents. Finally got it primed up, so I filled it with vinegar to clean out any rust (tank looks pretty clean though) and see if any leaks seeped through the primer. After a few hours, with no staining dripping, I decided that JB weld was holding. So I laid down the base color on the tank, seat and panels. Tonight I can add the stripes, and then clear coat in the morning. Yes, there will be pics.
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Oct 7, 2011 16:36
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Used the RunKeeper app set to "Other" to time and measure my commute home after work Turns out to work like a charm, and I made great time to boot: 38 minutes for 18km.
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Oct 8, 2011 00:43
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I moved the reservoir for my Loobman to a better location because I couldn't get it to stay put where it was before, and it kept hitting the chain guard. Much better now.
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Oct 8, 2011 11:00
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KozmoNaut posted:I moved the reservoir for my Loobman to a better location because I couldn't get it to stay put where it was before, and it kept hitting the chain guard. Much better now. That thing is kind of counterproductive on a X-ring chain. All you need is keeping it clean and relatively dry. Just a rag and a few drops of cheap 10w40 will do. Constantly soaking an X or O-ring chain with sticky chainsaw lube is the recipe for disaster and worn rings. This is like lubing it with sand and road grit. What really surprise me is that this thing doesn't come prefilled with snake oil. Jokes aside. That device was relevant on old HDs and UJMs with lovely chains you had to boil with engine oil to get it almost working. This is a non-issue with modern O/X-ring chains. Use you money to buy some good wax-shampoo instead, unless you're planning a rat-bike. Jesus Christ, that Bandit is dirty. I'm sure a constant flush of sticky chainsaw lube contributed a bit to the current state of your dirt pile. Worst Daddy fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 11:39
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You really are the worst daddy  Besides, it's some kind of biodegradeable chainsaw oil, it isn't sticky at all, just very runny. It's probably lovely as hell for chainsaws, but it seems to work for the chain, keeping it oiled but not caked in crap. It's not like it's constantly pouring oil on the chain, I give it a squeeze once every couple of days, no more than 5-10ml or so. I was going to tell you to stop being such a curmudgeon, but I fear it's already too late. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 12:03 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 11:58
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KozmoNaut posted:You really are the worst daddy Wash your bike and shut up, son.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:05
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Installed a main jet one size larger on the Vino. No more flat-spotting at 38 MPH. It pegs the speedometer at less than 3/4 throttle again. Stupid lowering air temperatures making fuel harder to atomize!
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Oct 9, 2011 13:15
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Worst Daddy posted:Wash your bike and shut up, son. She's a filthy lady, that's just the way she is.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:52
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Suspension on the track SV installed yesterday. GSXR 750 forks, ZX10R shock. Today I think I'll install the reduced wiring harness and start figuring out what other small items I need for it. Might order my rearsets too.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:59
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Worst Daddy posted:Wash your bike and shut up, son. well unfortunately, that was short-lived. I realized yesterday that I am probably better off just taking my things to a professional to have them media blasted. I soda blasted my friend's 77cb750F motor. All the paint is gone, the gasket surfaces are all clean, and it's about to get repainted gold and cast iron. Took me 6 hours start to finish (including cleanup) and I must have used at least 60lbs of baking soda. Actually probably closer to 75lbs. Links to paint: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ceramic-engine-paint-qt-olds-gold.html http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ceramic-engine-paint-qt-universal-cast-iron.html
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Oct 10, 2011 15:37
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