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Canuckistan posted:When's the last time you cleaned your filters and around the pump? They get gummed up pretty good by grease, soap, and other gunk. I found a bunch of videos on Youtube when I had to do it with my Kenmore dishwasher. The pump, several years ago, a glass broke and jammed it up. I'll look into some of those videos.
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Sep 28, 2011 18:17
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EDIT: I did end up getting a 1"-to-1" poly compression fitting. Will report back if my yard turns into a swamp overnight. I'm hoping for a quick answer. The city was recently nice enough to replace all the mains in my area, right up to the shutoff on my property. I'm using their hole and timing to replace my part of the line from the shutoff to the inside. I have a roll of 1" supply line same as the city used. I cannot figure out how to connect to their hardware:     The short black stub is my side, obviously. I was hoping I'd be able to pull it out of the shutoff device and simply insert my line and tighten. It seems the nut-type end of that shutoff is one cast piece with the rest of the unit. The city's side is threaded on. The existing copper is 3/4' so I can't just pull it out and replace it. Do I have to bother with a two sided coupler to join that black stub to my line? Why can't I just loosen it and joint directly to the shutoff? mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 8, 2011 18:04
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mr.belowaverage posted:EDIT: I did end up getting a 1"-to-1" poly compression fitting. Will report back if my yard turns into a swamp overnight.
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Oct 12, 2011 03:53
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The stop valve under my bathroom sink rotted through and sprung a leak. I figured it'd be an easy enough fix, grabbed an identical $6 replacement at Home Depot, and swapped them out. Easy peasy, I declared victory, and... it started seeping at the valve side of the compression nut.  I thought maybe my tape job sucked, so I pulled the whole thing apart again this morning, removed all the tape, wiped down the ferrule and the supply line, and then reassembled with a liberal application of pipe joint compound on the threads (which is how the plumber installed the previous valve). The seepage seems to be reduced even beyond the previous tiny amount, but it's still present. The nut's gone as far as it's going without taking the gorilla approach. Is there anything else to try before I give up and call the plumber?
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Oct 14, 2011 00:06
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Molten Llama posted:The stop valve under my bathroom sink rotted through and sprung a leak. I figured it'd be an easy enough fix, grabbed an identical $6 replacement at Home Depot, and swapped them out. Haha this is funny. You have got to look how the seal works. The pipe dope placed on the threads is only used as lubricant to seal the nut and ferral. If you could remove the ferrel i'd suggest sanding the pipe of all debre. But honestly if the the thing is still leaking then use your man hands and tighten it. Don't use to big of a wrench because you can push the ferrel through the nut. but if its weepling slowly it may just need a 1/4 turn or so. Use a back up wrench and make sure you have them positioned correctly. Don't have the wrenches at 3 and 9 o clock. Have then sitting 5 and 7 so you are putting the force in the right spot.
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Oct 14, 2011 02:07
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I ended up using a citric acid cleaner product for my dishwasher and it got rid of most of the scale issue. The interior of the dishwasher was much cleaner looking, as well. I don't remember the name of the product but it came in a bottle with a wax plug which you put upside-down in the silverware tray...run a cycle, and the heat melts the wax and releases the cleaner. Works great!
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Oct 16, 2011 00:53
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I'm putting a new tile floor into a half bath and will be replacing the toilet drain. Do I want to install the drain in the subfloor and cut the tile around it or do I install the drain in top of the tile? If either way works, is one way better or preferred over the other? Thanks a ton.
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Oct 23, 2011 22:39
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TouchyMcFeely posted:I'm putting a new tile floor into a half bath and will be replacing the toilet drain. Depends, how thick is the tile, and what toilet are you choosing to install? if the toilet flange is a half inch above the sub flooring it will be fine. You can always place it level with the finished flooring but you may have to double wax ring it or put a tall wax ring on it. Either way makes no difference it is just preference. I personally like putting the flange on half inch ply wood to put it above the finished floor If you chose the plywood option. I usually make a 7x7 square of plywood. Take a straight edge diagonally corner to corner to get the center. Place the center of that wood 12 inches off the back off the back of the finished wall and center it in the space side to side. Code states that you should have 15 inches center to a side wall on each side. But you can't always do that in older houses. And if you are wanting toilet options get an American Standard Cadet 3. They are the best toilet for the price.
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Oct 24, 2011 06:01
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Thanks for the info. We're going to reuse the old toilet for now. We'll probably want to replace it in the future since it's one of those old school "we don't give a gently caress how much water it uses" shitters and it's ugly as piss. But I'll keep an eye open for your recommendation when the time comes to remove it. TouchyMcFeely fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Oct 24, 2011 |
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Oct 24, 2011 14:05
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TouchyMcFeely posted:Thanks for the info. If you move it just replace it. It won't be worth the time you gently caress with the old one to remove it nicely.
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Oct 24, 2011 14:41
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Quick toilet question: I have an older toilet that has started 'trickling' after nearly every flush. If I take the lid off the tank and look there's a steady trickle of water, just enough to make an annoying noise. If I touch the float (doesn't matter if I lift it or just nudge it), it stops immediately. Is there some adjustment I need to make?
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Oct 28, 2011 19:46
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Powdered Toast Man posted:Quick toilet question: Just replace the float with a universal kit made my fluid master. Its the easiest fix.
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Oct 29, 2011 03:43
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Moving this over from the fix it fast thread. What the gently caress is happening here? The fitting up top is totally encrusted with rust. Will I have to replace these hoses?   Just happened to notice this in the basement last night. No, I didn't install this. Edit: oh, this is the water heater.
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Oct 29, 2011 18:52
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teh jhey posted:Moving this over from the fix it fast thread. Oh gently caress maybe its the lighting but it looks like they used black iron fittings instead of galvanized. They will all eventually rust out. And yes replace the flex lines. The chlorine in the city water will eat the rubbers and they will be no good when you remove them.
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Oct 29, 2011 22:35
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I hope this is the right thread for this, but I'm looking for a new shower. Preferably from Lowes or Home Depot since they are about the only places locally that I can think carries that kind of stuff. Is there any major brands recommended to stay away from? From looking at reviews on those two websites, it seems like "Aqua Glass" has major issues with the pans cracking. Is this because of poor installation, or a case of "You get what you pay for" since they are the cheapest? I've seen that it's better to put the shower base is mortar for support mentioned a few times, true? I saw this one at Home Depot, and it's near the top of my list at the moment. http://goo.gl/qSj4Y Then there's this one: http://goo.gl/pS7tP though not desired as much because of the price. Mainly need something sort of quick and on the cheaper side since the bathtub has a crack in it, leaked under, and messed the floor up. I'd like a 60" shower, but willing to go down to 48". As for individual pieces I think this was it, Pan: http://goo.gl/LgLq7 Can't find the walls, but they were put together in the store so it was the same brand. It was likely either Kohler, or Sterling.
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Oct 30, 2011 04:46
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uapyro posted:I hope this is the right thread for this, but I'm looking for a new shower. I'd just make sure its a one piece if you can fit on into the house and into the door ways. I can't recommend certain brands though. Anyone else?
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Oct 30, 2011 20:58
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For general info - I would recommend staying far away from any shower pan that doesn't rest completely on the floor. I bought a cheaper fiberglass pan at Home Depot that had a lot of dead space underneath. It supported the weight of whatever was on it by three lovely little adjustable legs. The directions said all that was needed to support the pan other than the legs was a ring of cement around the drain. The amount of flex it had was a concern but hey, if all they recommend is a ring of cement around the drain then that's all it needs, right?  It lasted about 3 weeks before it cracked and had to be ripped out. I ended up replacing it with a Swanstone pan and couldn't be happier.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:16
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TouchyMcFeely posted:For general info - I would recommend staying far away from any shower pan that doesn't rest completely on the floor. I bought a cheaper fiberglass pan at Home Depot that had a lot of dead space underneath. It supported the weight of whatever was on it by three lovely little adjustable legs. The directions said all that was needed to support the pan other than the legs was a ring of cement around the drain. The amount of flex it had was a concern but hey, if all they recommend is a ring of cement around the drain then that's all it needs, right? Thanks for the tip on shower pan. I'll take a look again at them in a few minutes. Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd just make sure its a one piece if you can fit on into the house and into the door ways. I can't recommend certain brands though. Anyone else? The house is a little over 110 yards old and doesn't have standard door sizes. Besides a small shower i haven't seen one that'll fit through the small doorways.
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Oct 31, 2011 00:24
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What's the best way to remove a 55 year old brass cleanout plug that looked like it's never been used from a cast iron drain pipe? I've already broken off the raised square plug. I'm thinking a cold chisel and hammer.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:30
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kid sinister posted:What's the best way to remove a 55 year old brass cleanout plug that looked like it's never been used from a cast iron drain pipe? I've already broken off the raised square plug. I'm thinking a cold chisel and hammer. Thats a tough call. You could heat the cast iron up with a torch to make the metal expand and easier for you to remove. But since you broke the plug off you may have to cut it out. Well drill it out and cut close to the threads, then use a type and dye to chase the threads.
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Nov 1, 2011 21:39
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Thats a tough call. You could heat the cast iron up with a torch to make the metal expand and easier for you to remove. But since you broke the plug off you may have to cut it out. Do you mean "tap and die"? edit: I tried the torch idea, while completely forgetting that sewer gas is flammable and the cover was now leaking... That nice little 4" fireball gave me a startle! And it didn't work! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Nov 1, 2011 |
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Nov 1, 2011 21:48
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kid sinister posted:Do you mean "tap and die"? Yes sorry I mean tap and dye. I am on pain relaxers becuase of a car crash i was in, this weekend.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:01
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I got it out! I had about 2 threads exposed on the sides of the plug, but I still couldn't budge it with channellocks or a monkey wrench. So it took a hammer and cold chisel like I thought. I put a the chisel on the threads perpendicular to the hole and used the hammer to drive the plug threads directly away from the pipe threads. After a big enough gap was made, I fit the cold chisel in and pried the plug out. I also found out why the cap wouldn't budge in the first place. Stupid installer crossthreaded the plug threads. Luckily all the damage was in the brass plug threads and not the ones in the iron pipe. Now to snake my drain! 
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Nov 1, 2011 22:17
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kid sinister posted:I got it out! I had about 2 threads exposed on the sides of the plug, but I still couldn't budge it with channellocks or a monkey wrench. So it took a hammer and cold chisel like I thought. I put a the chisel on the threads perpendicular to the hole and used the hammer to drive the plug threads directly away from the pipe threads. After a big enough gap was made, I fit the cold chisel in and pried the plug out. Run water down a house while you snake it. A rooter guy showed me that trick and it really did help unclog it.
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Nov 1, 2011 22:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Run water down a house while you snake it. A rooter guy showed me that trick and it really did help unclog it. I hate snaking drains. You were right about that running water thing. My snake wouldn't turn this one corner until I did that.
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Nov 2, 2011 02:22
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kid sinister posted:I hate snaking drains. Ya snaking drains sucks, I fully agree. And sorry about my spelling error of hose. Running the water also helps when you knock stuff free to washing to down the drain. A slightly clog can be a lot easier. Though if its a full on clog I've had to try and push through it for hours before.
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Nov 4, 2011 01:44
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By the by, I couldn't find a new 2" brass cleanout plug to replace the old one, so I went with a PVC one. That shouldn't cause any problems in a cast iron pipe, should it? Yes, I doped the threads.
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Nov 4, 2011 22:18
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kid sinister posted:By the by, I couldn't find a new 2" brass cleanout plug to replace the old one, so I went with a PVC one. That shouldn't cause any problems in a cast iron pipe, should it? Yes, I doped the threads. Lol why would you buy a brass on, those are expensive. A pvc one is fine. Usually I only tape clean out plugs. Dope lubes the plastic ones to much and you can crack them. Though this usually only happens with plastic plug going into plastic threads.
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Nov 5, 2011 00:06
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YAY, a plumbing thread.. First let me say I loving HATE PLUMBING enough that I thought about becoming one at one point. (Getting paid with a stocked truck, is better than paying, and running to HD / Lowes 5 times to fix a leak) My house is from early 1900's with a bathroom I've seen a lot of talk about venting.. I have no such pipes in my house (Although the longest drain run to the main stack is maybe 40 ft.. Stack is in bathroom, Kitchen is 10-15 ft away, and utility sink / washer/dryer is 20-30 ft away. (there is a vent in there I believe), I'll see it when I clean my Gutters. This house is why I hate plumbing... Horror #1: Changing kitchen faucet: The old faucet had long supply lines so they tied it right into the copper.. but, the guy doing it.. didn't have the right fitting I guess. they went copper->brass-> copper. I finally just cut the soldered on brass and soldered on a new fitting. Soldering up with a pipe full of water is fun. Plus whoever built / plumbed the addition with the kitchen/bath isn't a firm believer in shutoff valves. Horror #2: Elbow of Freeze When they put in the gas line they knocked a hole in cinder-block wall into the crawl space (most of the house has no crawl below it). When it's 18* out all that cold air flowing under the house has 1 escape (The hole) and blows on a 90* elbow. Why not just leave the pipe bare. I also don't like torching it in the winter.. gas line runs right next to it. I'm going under today to put some insulation and heat tape on it. #3: Rock and Roll Toilet Why does the flange have to be the right height? lets make it a little higher. (This will be fixed when I replace the cast iron pipe / rusty flange when I redo my floor) tater_salad fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Nov 6, 2011 |
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Nov 6, 2011 14:43
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tater_salad posted:YAY, a plumbing thread.. 1- There is nothing wrong with going brass to copper. If he went copper to galvanized then that can cause a problem. 2- Natural gas requires an exact air to gas ratio for it to ignite. I have seen a water heater with a with a drip lag hand tight. The gas was running with in a foot of the burner for the water heater. It never exploded so soldering near one should be fine. Just dont heat up the gas pipe itself. Control where you direct your flame. 3- Only problem about cast iron is cutting it can be a pain with out the right tools.
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Nov 6, 2011 19:39
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#1 the pain was i spent the day trying to find the right fitting, couldn't find anything #2 this is under the house not in the house, it kills me that when they made the hole they never tried to close it. Great stuff and some heat tape should keep me from having to crawl under the house in Feb with a space heater. #3 when my main drain got a ball of root it was changed to mostly pvc I just need to do the rest of it but want to wait because I may want to move it over
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Nov 6, 2011 20:51
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tater_salad posted:#1 the pain was i spent the day trying to find the right fitting, couldn't find anything 1- Hah thats funny I would have to see what you were dealing with to really see how bad it was. 2- Ya they should have filled it with insulation. I'd put heat tape and a ton of fiberglass insulation in it. 3- Just remember the toilet should be 15 inches off of objects to the side. Or centered in the opening provided. And 12 inches off of the finished wall.
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Nov 7, 2011 02:11
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2. Yeah I'm wrapping too, insulation is in the garage, just can't find my gloves. I never thought about shoving some insulation in the hole ill see how small of a piece I can get? I don't need a whole roll for a 4"x6" hole. 3. It don't think it follows that now, I want to move it a little more "away " it's too close to the wall / sink right now.
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Nov 7, 2011 02:25
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I'm not sure if I have a problem or not, so I thought I'd drop in here and see what the resident plumbers think. My HVAC knowledge is pretty limited. At my girlfriend's house, she has central heat/ac this morning she woke me up to ask me to look at the system because "the water is staying lukewarm and there's a puddle on the floor downstairs [in the utility room]". I figured her water heater sprung a leak and that was the end of that. When I got down there, the puddle appears to have been coming from the HVAC unit, not the water heater. More specifically, from a pump on the bottom of it. I'm confused because I don't know why a forced air system would need a water pump in it. I hit the reset on the water heater and am monitoring, but here's the pics from the HVAC. The room, w/ water heater on the left and HVAC on the right. Puddle shown here.  The wide view of the pump and the bottom of the HVAC unit.  The close up of the pump. It looks like the water came up from that vent on it in the lower right.  The unit is still putting out heat, so it's working, but why the water?
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Nov 8, 2011 15:23
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Dragyn posted:I'm not sure if I have a problem or not, so I thought I'd drop in here and see what the resident plumbers think. My HVAC knowledge is pretty limited. It's a condensation pump. Most likely the pump failed or the line that it pumps through got plugged. You can find them at any hardware store to replace.
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Nov 8, 2011 15:40
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It's a condensation pump. Most likely the pump failed or the line that it pumps through got plugged. You can find them at any hardware store to replace. Thanks Rd Rash! I just figured it out. The GFCI for the pump needed to be reset. Still no hot water from the water heater though. I'm gonna go get my multimeter from my place and test the thermostats for resistance. The unit is less than two years old and has only been used for about 6 months. Any ideas what could be going on with that? I've never owned an electric water heater, so I'm not sure if it should be making noise or not. Right now it's deathly silent.
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Nov 8, 2011 15:51
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Dragyn posted:Thanks Rd Rash! I just figured it out. The GFCI for the pump needed to be reset. Still no hot water from the water heater though. I'm gonna go get my multimeter from my place and test the thermostats for resistance. The unit is less than two years old and has only been used for about 6 months. Any ideas what could be going on with that? Pull the top cover and see if you are getting 220 volts. Then go from there. An element could have burned out or it may be a bad thermostat. Though if its just producing luke warm water most likely one element is out. I would replace them both if you replace one.
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Nov 8, 2011 16:25
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Pull the top cover and see if you are getting 220 volts. Then go from there. An element could have burned out or it may be a bad thermostat. Top element didn't have any continuity. Just replaced it with a new one. The original was 207v, the closets replacement I could find was a 240v, is that going to be a problem? Just playing the waiting game now for the tank to heat back up, hopefully. edit: Hooray! It works again! Dragyn fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Nov 8, 2011 |
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Nov 8, 2011 18:42
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Dragyn posted:Top element didn't have any continuity. Just replaced it with a new one. The original was 207v, the closets replacement I could find was a 240v, is that going to be a problem? It shouldn't be a problem.
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Nov 9, 2011 04:15
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Nov 10, 2011 22:31
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