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Red Herring posted:
To be honest, in the second shot it's a lot more subtle, and not so distracting. The green is absolutely gorgeous, and rich. Also, what technique did you use for the helmet, it looks like wet blending, really nice. Hurry and paint them all! This unit is going to look insane.
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Oct 8, 2011 08:44
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WhiteOutMouse posted:*Slaaneshi Termites*
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Oct 8, 2011 09:16
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Hey, so I want yall'z opinion: I like the first ones because heavy black with colored trim looks like Black Legion is pulling in more dedicated recruit. For a pure Slaanesh army, I think the second is closer to appropriate.
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Oct 8, 2011 12:05
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Yeast posted:To be honest, in the second shot it's a lot more subtle, and not so distracting. Patience, probably get the unit done in around 3 weeks from now, after all my assignments are done. They'll be going with 5 Wraithguard. Got some work on the Farseers cloak done, plus pushed the robe highlights up another couple of levels (Doesn't seem to show though) The model has some damage that I didn't notice when I was assembling, notably under the pointing arm and some minor pits in the cloak. I have another Farsser here ready to be primed and go, but I'm unsure of whether I want to stop and change. What do you guys think? The other farseer is the Mind War / MEEETTAAAAL Farseer, one of my favourite models too. This one, the blades, I'm keen to do more crystalline effects. Also, what do you chaps think of the cloak colour?   
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Oct 8, 2011 13:59
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So I've asked this before but aus goons, I've gone to bunnings and found simple green but.. there's about 50000 simple green products at my local.. which goddamn one do I need?
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Oct 8, 2011 16:25
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It should be the concentrated one. Im not sure exactly what the label says but its dark green liquid and its theoretically supposed to be dilluted for general cleaning. I usually find it in automotive departments for some reason.
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Oct 8, 2011 16:30
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Just bought a box of ork boyz. How do I go about painting them? I've got Devlan Mud, Badab Black, Thraka Green, and Snot Green.
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Oct 8, 2011 17:16
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Baron Bifford posted:Just bought a box of ork boyz. How do I go about painting them? I've got Devlan Mud, Badab Black, Thraka Green, and Snot Green. Get a pot of Knarloc green, easy ork recipe -> Knarloc, Thraka Wash, Knarloc and leave the wash in the recesses.
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Oct 8, 2011 17:27
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I've recently acquired the game Blood Bowl, and I'm going to get colours to paint them on monday. I'm not getting colours from games workshop, but a store in my hometown, since it's a lot cheaper  I'm not sure what colours to get though! I'm going to get black and white primer, but beyond that I'm at a loss.I was thinking about getting the following colours: Black White Red Blue Green Orange Yellow Orange/Yellow (something that looks like human skin) Some sort of metallic colour (preferably iron, probably gold too if they have it) Would this be sufficent enough? I think I can get by with variations of the different colours by mixing them, so I'll try and get as generic versions of the various colours as possible. Is there something else I need to get? (besides brushes)?
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Oct 8, 2011 17:28
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I know this may sound stupid, but how do you guys usually thin your paints? I currently take paint out of the container it came in and place it on a paper plate/pallet and then dip the brush in my cup of water (that I wipe brushes in between colors) and get some water to mix with the brush. I usually make the paint start to bubble a little, and a single stroke of paint I can still see through. Sometimes when I do this, I get a slight hint of the color that is most dominate in that dirty cup of water I use. Which is kinda good / Kinda not.
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Oct 8, 2011 18:32
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I got an eyedropper at the drug store, and I have a separate little thing of water from the brush rinse water. The problem with the eyedropper is that there's like a minimum amount you can add with it and if you need less you're sort of SOL. Basically it works great if I need a fair amount of paint but if I'm just trying to use a really small amount it's not so good.
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Oct 8, 2011 18:40
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Got some CD almost finished. It takes a bit to sculpt them, but I've almost finished painting ten in one day (as you may tell from the quality ) Which base color should I go with?  e: please excuse lovely cellphone pics. I have no less than three digital cameras, but no way to load the batteries for any of them 
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Oct 8, 2011 18:47
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Hal Gill username posted:I got an eyedropper at the drug store, and I have a separate little thing of water from the brush rinse water. Do what I do - eiher just squeeze it until it's a semicircle on top ofthe nib and dab it on the side of your palette well, or put a drop of water next to the well your paint is in and dab your painting brush in it and transfer it to the paint. This is nifty because you have a little pool of water there to add if your paint thickens at any point. Less fiddling.
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Oct 8, 2011 19:05
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This is the kind of good thinking that I am apparently incapable of. Cheers.
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Oct 8, 2011 19:13
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Thanks, I'll try that out today when I start painting my Whirlwind. I also found out a good thing to do is get a quetip and wet one side to use to remove extra glue on the miniatures. After that you can use the dry side to get the rest of it / any water off.
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Oct 8, 2011 19:16
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Not a viking posted:Got some CD almost finished. It takes a bit to sculpt them, but I've almost finished painting ten in one day (as you may tell from the quality These guys are really cool! I definitely prefer the dark bases.
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Oct 8, 2011 19:20
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Gorefiend posted:Get a pot of Knarloc green, easy ork recipe -> Knarloc, Thraka Wash, Knarloc and leave the wash in the recesses. So, I'm supposed to paint over the Thraka Green wash without painting in the recesses? That's really, really hard.
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Oct 8, 2011 20:29
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Baron Bifford posted:So, I'm supposed to paint over the Thraka Green wash without painting in the recesses? That's really, really hard. Its really not tbh.
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Oct 8, 2011 20:46
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Wrote an insanely long post in the 40k thread that no sane person should bother to read, but helped me get my thoughts in one place. In regard to one of the units from it, here is a WIP/mock-up of two Calix Priests from the Lamenters Calix Priesthood (counts-as Sang Priests, stole the bodies from my now irrelevant Vanguard Vets). I cannot find any imagery of them at all, so just went with what felt right; wings, robes, books, customised weapons.   Right arms have magnets in at the moment, so I can switch between chainswords and power-maces. Will probably add some of those cool Chaplain/Dark Angel brazens on chains and hang challices from their waists. Paint scheme will be black robes, yellow armour, white and gold trim. Need to find somewhere to get the checkerboard/heart icon of the Lamenters as well, but with the right-hand shoulderpad having my chapter logo/colours on it there won't be another blank space that would fit it. Which yellows are best to get that battered Imperial Fist colour? And how do you make flat black robes look tattered and dirty?
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Oct 8, 2011 21:06
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Thanks for the opinions. I think I will try an paint one guy up with the purple and a brighter pink. I wish I ordered that Tentacle Pink copy a few days ago that way I would have it now...TheCosmicMuffet posted:Tying up the votes for 'second scheme'. I am always second guessing myself. It took about a year before I figured out how I wanted to paint my Orks. Also, I never really highlighted black and the purple method that guy did looks achievable for my level of skill/time. Refind Chaos posted:...I'd do something a bit lighter for the tusks as they seem to be something that should stand out a little from the rest of the armor.
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Oct 9, 2011 00:37
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will blow your mind.
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Red Herring posted:Also, what do you chaps think of the cloak colour? It looks like it's made out of a summer afternoon. Gorgeous.
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Oct 9, 2011 05:28
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Blending is fun! I've been doing some blends on big flat areas, and it's actually pretty nifty.  Also, thank gently caress for capiliary action. Badab Black makes panel lines super easy.
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Oct 9, 2011 05:38
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Not a viking posted:
These are chaos dwarves, right? Both. Alternate.
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Oct 9, 2011 06:09
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I got a bunch of space marines in a trade, most of them primed black. It's proven to be a little difficult to paint yellow like this. So far I've tried Iyanden Darksun for a basecoat, wash, and then multiple thin coats of Golden Yellow. I'm tempted to try and use sunburst yellow to get the same color as my marines primed white.
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Oct 9, 2011 06:24
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Ularg posted:I got a bunch of space marines in a trade, most of them primed black. It's proven to be a little difficult to paint yellow like this. So far I've tried Iyanden Darksun for a basecoat, wash, and then multiple thin coats of Golden Yellow. I'm tempted to try and use sunburst yellow to get the same color as my marines primed white. Just give them a burst of white primer of the black, but do it angled a tiny bit up when what you normally would. Gives you a bit of zenith highlighting and gives you white to paint over.
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Oct 9, 2011 09:36
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Lethemonster posted:Just give them a burst of white primer of the black, but do it angled a tiny bit up when what you normally would. Gives you a bit of zenith highlighting and gives you white to paint over. Thanks, I'll try that. I did a few coats of watered down golden yellow. I even mixed the tiniest bit of red blood to get a orange tinge and went over that again with golden yellow. They look a lot darker than my other figures, and it's kinda cool.
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Oct 9, 2011 10:02
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I felt a bit sorry for the neglected pile of lictor bits sitting in the bottom of my cupboard, so I glued them together and slapped on a few coats of paint.   It'll probably just go straight back into the cupboard, but at least now it looks a little nicer.
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Oct 9, 2011 10:42
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Sorry Yeast, missed this part of your post last night.Yeast posted:The green is absolutely gorgeous, and rich. Also, what technique did you use for the helmet, it looks like wet blending, really nice. I have actually only used wet blending twice as far as I can recall, it isn't a technique I use often. The faceplate was just layering from Dheneb Stone > Dheneb + White, The grey on the Helmet was Black + Shadow Grey worked up. I generally use glazing as my main technique, and just work it up. Silhouette posted:It looks like it's made out of a summer afternoon. Gorgeous. Cheers man, really trying for the clean crisp Eldar aesthetic. Along the lines of "How the hell does he keep that thing clean?!" It'll be more prominent on my bases, need some cork tiles I plan on picking up tomorrow. Going with Maiden World Jungle bases. Arson Fire posted:I felt a bit sorry for the neglected pile of lictor bits sitting in the bottom of my cupboard, so I glued them together and slapped on a few coats of paint. Very nice Lictor, I think he's pretty sexy looking. Did you varnish him though? Is that shine on the armour the light or varnish? Either way I approve of the armour. It's purdy. Onto an update for my own stuff, I need some help with colour choices. I finished off the cape interior and exterior today, as well as the green armour plates and robe. The shoulderpads with the rune trim will probably be black and the trim on the top of the cape I'm not sure about (I'm thinking silver? I don't want metallics there, but NMM will definitely not work), any suggestions? Here is the first Pic:  Different lighting direction to see more of the shading / toning:  Here is the finished cloak too, I wasn't sure about the sky blue, but it comes across as very Eldar. I'm almost afraid to Rune it up though with freehand, I'll probably do two runes one on each side of the split. What do you guys think? I'm happy with the clean aesthetic, but it looks a bit plain?  A bit of a blurry pic, but you can see how the model is coming together.  This brings me to the final and major model question; The sash, I was toying with a very pale beige colour, but with the sky blue I don't think it'll had enough definition. Toying with a very rich blue, maybe even a purple? I don't think a red will work. Maybe a yellow... The Runes will probably be Gold, just to diffentiate from a Warlock and add some prestiege. Opinions? Red Herring fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 12:02
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Arson Fire posted:I felt a bit sorry for the neglected pile of lictor bits sitting in the bottom of my cupboard, so I glued them together and slapped on a few coats of paint.  What technique is the red? It's really pretty.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:45
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Is PVA the same thing as white glue?
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Oct 9, 2011 14:21
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Oxford Comma posted:Is PVA the same thing as white glue? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate
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Oct 9, 2011 14:25
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Wikipedia posted:Polyvinyl acetate is a component of a widely-used type of glue, referred to variously as wood glue, white glue, carpenter's glue, school glue or PVA glue.
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Oct 9, 2011 14:58
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On another note, what's the best bang-for-your-buck regarding magnetic bases? I plan to store my minis on cookie sheets.
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Oct 9, 2011 15:37
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Oxford Comma posted:On another note, what's the best bang-for-your-buck regarding magnetic bases? I plan to store my minis on cookie sheets. moths posted:So wood glue = school glue. Thanks Wikipedia!
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Oct 9, 2011 17:24
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That's the point, though. Codeine and Krokodil are both opium-based drugs but it's idiotic to call them both the same thing. It's just poorly phrased in the Wiki. When a hobby article talks about PVA glue, it means white glue. I came back from the hobby store with a jar of Tamiya X-21 Flat Base. It looks like to you cut it with three parts Future and then brush on as a flat varnish. Or more future for a satin finish. Has anyone here had any experience with this stuff?
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Oct 9, 2011 17:36
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El Estrago Bonito posted:They are both PVA based glues, one is just much stronger than the other. Yup, this is what I use in my garage when I'm building cabinets and whatnot:  And this is what non-Americans are talking about when they say "PVA glue:"  The same stuff you used in the second grade to make a construction-paper Indian headdress at Thanksgiving. You don't need the first one if all you're doing is gluing sand or ballast to your bases. Wood glue costs more, and it's overkill. It's also thicker and more difficult to move around while you're applying it. It's really, really strong stuff, but you don't need it. I actually used wood glue this very morning while building a new Warhammer table! WHAT ARE THE ODDS.
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Oct 9, 2011 17:53
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If you're not using Gorilla Glue to base your minis, you're asking for trouble. That poo poo needs to stay on.
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Oct 9, 2011 17:55
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El Estrago Bonito posted:What size models? 15mm and 28mm (and whatever WH40K is.)
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Oct 9, 2011 18:27
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Oxford Comma posted:15mm and 28mm (and whatever WH40K is.) 40k is "Heroic" 28 mm if I remember right.
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Oct 9, 2011 18:39
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Red Herring posted:Very nice Lictor, I think he's pretty sexy looking. Did you varnish him though? Is that shine on the armour the light or varnish? Either way I approve of the armour. It's purdy. The carapace is gloss varnished, the rest of it is mat varnished. The Supreme Court posted:What technique is the red? It's really pretty. Black primer. Mechrite red over everything. Red gore over everything (I hate the shade of mechrite red, but painting red gore directly over black is torture). A heavy devlan mud wash over the whole model. Drybrush with blood red. Highlight with blood red, and then blazing orange. A thin wash of baal red to tint the orange bits red (I think there's a term for this but can't remember it. A glaze?) The idea behind this method was that I could do everything except the highlighting with a giant flat brush, and so spend less time per model.
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Oct 9, 2011 19:57
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