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veedubfreak posted:Ah, I had only heard of 1 Canadian failure. I'm under warranty for 7/100 so I'm not too worried, either they recall the pumps or I get fixed under warranty, or I trade the car in when the warranty is up Did you buy an extended warranty for your car? When is the best time to get one?
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Sep 28, 2011 21:07
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Raskolnikov2089 posted:Sooooooooo Did you check the fuses on top of the battery under the cover?
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Sep 29, 2011 02:49
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My wife's 2008 passat wagon has started doing a weird thing. Every once in a while when she starts it, the electronic parking brake button flashes, the mfd says parking brake failure or something to that effect and the parking brake symbol on the dash flashes and plays a chime. Looking at boards they tend to say that means brake fluid level low or a stuck float. Checked it all and everything was good. Pretty confused here. It's a 6mt if that matters.
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Sep 29, 2011 19:46
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I just purchased a '09 Jetta 2.5. Aside from the 1 year/10k mile checks is there anything else that should be on my radar?
littlewing fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Sep 30, 2011 |
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Sep 29, 2011 21:12
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Terminus Est posted:My wife's 2008 passat wagon has started doing a weird thing. Every once in a while when she starts it, the electronic parking brake button flashes, the mfd says parking brake failure or something to that effect and the parking brake symbol on the dash flashes and plays a chime. Looking at boards they tend to say that means brake fluid level low or a stuck float. Checked it all and everything was good. Pretty confused here. It's a 6mt if that matters. The electronic parking brake switch is probably bad - I've replaced several for symptoms you're describing. There's also a software update available but it's only for a very small percentage of Passats.
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Sep 30, 2011 12:44
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DerDestroyer posted:Did you buy an extended warranty for your car? When is the best time to get one? I bought the extended warranty through VW. It's basically like buying a CPO car, if I never use it, I get the full price back minus a 50$ "administration fee".
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Sep 30, 2011 22:17
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my1999gsr posted:The electronic parking brake switch is probably bad - I've replaced several for symptoms you're describing. There's also a software update available but it's only for a very small percentage of Passats. Thanks. I'll check it out and see what I find.
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Oct 1, 2011 05:50
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I have a B8 S4 with about 11K miles on it. I have been having an annoying rubbery creaking sound when I turn the wheel more than 20 degrees or so left or right. -only happens after the car has warmed up and I have driven it a few miles. -I can feel the car settle comfortably into a turn so performance isn't affected -I can feel a light "shudder" in the brake pedal when it happens, but not the clutch pedal. -power steering pump noise occurs as expected at full steering lock. It's not this sound. -happens anytime, stopped or moving. I'm taking it back to the dealer service dept. this week; the fourth time for this problem. Initially they said nothing was wrong and cited that aftermarket wheels (same spec as stock  ) could be causing it, so I put the stock wheels back on and torqued them properly. Then it was "we can't reproduce the problem". After this I told them to call me and I will come over and reproduce the problem whenever they can't. The next time in they replaced the entire steering column. Now, I'm taking it to a different dealer because they dented my door while they had it and were really lovely to me about it. Any ideas about what the problem could be or how better to describe it to them in order to actually get it fixed?
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Oct 1, 2011 22:07
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I seem to have put off the "tick tick tick" noise when turning right on my 2001 Passat Wagon a little bit too long, as my 4-yo son got to sit in the driver's seat and engage the e-brake when I yelled at him as I pushed my car into a spot in front of the house, then we got to pick up 5 ballbearings from the street in front of the driveway. New CV joint ahoy. I just emailed Raxles to get a quote on replacement axle/CV assemblies (might as well do both of them while I have it up on stands), and I'd like to do this myself rather than paying out the nose for the dealer or a shop to do it. I've read a couple how-to guides on some VW forums, but I'm a little apprehensive about doing something like this myself. I'm relatively handy, have changed my own pads/rotors on this car and on my wife's Subaru, and I have a decent socket/wrench set, and apparently the guys at Raxles will loan you the necessary tools. When I'm wondering is if this is something worth spending a day off doing myself once I get the parts, or if I'm better off paying out the nose and taking it to a shop. Edit: This has been the car from hell. We bought it used last March, the timing belt broke at 70mph on the highway last August and bent all the valves in the engine, and now this. If it wasn't in immaculate condition (and we didn't still have 18 months of payments left), I'd say junk it and start over. CommanderApaul fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Oct 2, 2011 |
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Oct 2, 2011 04:12
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Isn't it nice to get a little validation in having that human you made, though? You slog through years of the little guy being terrible at everything and then one day he is a genuine asset because of his own meager competence. Nice work, songuy. Good job, dadguy. Too bad about the car.
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Oct 2, 2011 07:33
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If you're buying axles with the CVs attached, replacement is actually pretty easy. You'll ned a torque wrench and breaker bar with some extra tubing to use as a cheater to get that last 1/2 turn in on the wheel axle bolts. Rebuilding the joints is actually not even that hard, just a bit time consuming and requires an inexpensive CV clamp crimp tool. I've done the job twice, and if you feel good doing brakes you'll be fine with this too.
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Oct 2, 2011 17:33
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Awesome, that makes me feel a little better. Marty at Raxles answered my email today even though they're closed, they have the parts in stock for $180 each, and the wife and I worked it out so as long as I get the bad side done on Wednesday night, we won't even need a rental. My son's already starting in with "Daddy, can I help you fix your car," so I think I'm gonna hand him a camera and document it for posterity.
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Oct 2, 2011 17:46
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PoopinClumpin posted:I have a B8 S4 with about 11K miles on it. I have been having an annoying rubbery creaking sound when I turn the wheel more than 20 degrees or so left or right. There's 2 TSBs that might be applicable. One is for CV boot squeaking on turns. The remedy is to spray the boot with silicone. There's also one for lower ball joint squeak on some models. The repair is replacement of one or both ball joints.
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Oct 3, 2011 12:40
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CommanderApaul posted:Awesome, that makes me feel a little better. Marty at Raxles answered my email today even though they're closed, they have the parts in stock for $180 each, and the wife and I worked it out so as long as I get the bad side done on Wednesday night, we won't even need a rental. My son's already starting in with "Daddy, can I help you fix your car," so I think I'm gonna hand him a camera and document it for posterity. Just an FYI - the torque on the axle bolt is 126 ft/lbs plus 1/2 turn and it should be replaced.
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Oct 3, 2011 12:45
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my1999gsr posted:Just an FYI - the torque on the axle bolt is 126 ft/lbs plus 1/2 turn and it should be replaced. Yeah, I just got off the phone with Raxles, they include a new axle bolt for both sides. I need to get a pair of jack stands, and I'm gonna pick up a torque wrench while I'm out if my neighbor doesn't have one I can swipe. I've got a good length of steel pipe to use as a breaker bar. Parts should be here on wednesday/thursday, they're gonna have them at the shipper by lunchtime. As much of a pain in the rear end as this is gonna be, I'm pretty excited. CommanderApaul fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Oct 3, 2011 |
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Oct 3, 2011 15:17
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I was just skimming the press release on the US market Golf R and something stood out to me:quote:The Golf R is fitted with the most powerful Golf production engine ever seen in the U.S. The car uses an updated version of the EA113 2.0-liter turbocharged inline four-cylinder engine, rather than the EA888 engine used in the current GTI. If I'm not mistaken, as far as US models are concerned the EA113 is the one commonly referred to as the "2.0 FSI" and the EA888 is the "2.0 TSI" seen in the late Mk5 and up GTIs. Everything I had heard about these seemed to be in favor of the newer one, particularly due to the use of a timing chain rather than a belt. Can anyone tell me why they'd want to use an older, apparently worse engine as the basis for their new performance model? Is it just that they never bothered to update the S3 variant when the normal model was changed? edit: And no mention of the magnetic shocks? I thought that was confirmed as coming standard on US models...wtf? wolrah fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Oct 5, 2011 |
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Oct 5, 2011 19:51
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I think the EA113 can accommodate a bigger turbocharger.
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Oct 5, 2011 20:09
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Drivers side heated seat stopped working in my mk4 gti with recaro seats if it matters. Passenger side heats up fine. Tried swapping the switches over, still the same, checked the fuse, thats ok. I have tried unplugging and plugging it back in under the seat. I'm at home and its dark so i'll have to wait to work to get a multimeter but any ideas what it could be or what to check next? I hope its not the seat element. 
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Oct 6, 2011 22:24
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warcake posted:Drivers side heated seat stopped working in my mk4 gti with recaro seats if it matters. Passenger side heats up fine. Tried swapping the switches over, still the same, checked the fuse, thats ok. I have tried unplugging and plugging it back in under the seat. I'm at home and its dark so i'll have to wait to work to get a multimeter but any ideas what it could be or what to check next? Its the seat element. To check, pull out the switch for the heater that isn't working and check the resistance between the black/yellow wire and the brown wire (IIRC) in the harness. Anything more than 3.5 ohms is a bad seat element which means a new seatcover since the element is integrated into the fabric.
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Oct 7, 2011 12:51
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my1999gsr posted:Its the seat element. To check, pull out the switch for the heater that isn't working and check the resistance between the black/yellow wire and the brown wire (IIRC) in the harness. Anything more than 3.5 ohms is a bad seat element which means a new seatcover since the element is integrated into the fabric. 2.5 ohms on the passenger side, open circuit drivers side. got voltage at the plug under the seat both sides so its a bad element i guess! Thanks my1999gsr.
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Oct 7, 2011 17:56
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My 09 Rabbit has a hose hanging down from the rear passenger wheel well.  It looks like it goes up to the gas tank. Anyone knows what it is, and where I should reconnect it to? Toebone fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 7, 2011 20:20
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My MKVI GTI has started making a loud screeching noise when I turn into a parking spot at low speed. It made the noise a few times now over the past few days and it happened whether I turn the wheel to the right or to the left. Problem is, most of the time I don't hear the car doing anything out of the ordinary.. and both times the noise happened it was when it was raining (not sure how that may affect anything?) I can't seem to replicate it on command, but when it happens it's a really loud screeching noise from the front of the car. Doesn't look like anything is stuck there either.
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Oct 7, 2011 21:55
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Autism Monday posted:My MKVI GTI has started making a loud screeching noise when I turn into a parking spot at low speed. It made the noise a few times now over the past few days and it happened whether I turn the wheel to the right or to the left. Does the noise occur if the vehicle is stationary with the steering wheel turned or does the car have to be moving?
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Oct 7, 2011 22:26
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Hmm I didn't try that actually, but it was only audible during low speed turns. Myabe that was only due to lack of other driving noises of course..
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Oct 7, 2011 22:32
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Any trick to getting the axle to stop spinning while trying to remove the 6 bolts connecting it to the transmission? I've got the axle bolt loosened and the car up on stands, and I'm trying to get the 6 12-point bolts connecting the inner joint to the tranny out, and the fucker just keeps spinning around every time I try to torque it. Edit: Passenger side is done, car is driveable again. Ended up pulling the driver's side off the jack stand to keep the transmission from turning when loosening/tightening the inner CV joint bolts. Outside of an emergency run to Autozone for a 6mm hex driver to take the inner joint heat shield off so I could get the drat thing out without disconnecting the upper control arms, took about 2 hours. The driver's side is still clicking when turning left, but that's gonna wait until next weekend. The guide I'm using to do this says that I'll need a front end alignment done after I'm finished, but it also involves disconnecting the control arms. Am I understanding correctly that as long as I don't mess with the steering/suspension system, I should be good without this? Behold catastrophic boot failure 
CommanderApaul fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 8, 2011 15:06
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Toebone posted:My 09 Rabbit has a hose hanging down from the rear passenger wheel well. It's not a big deal - it's just the drain hose from the gas door trim in case you overfill the tank. It's supposed to sit behind the rear side of the wheel liner and out of sight. If you open your gas door you can see where the hose starts - it'll be a small circle just under the gas cap. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Oct 8, 2011 |
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Oct 8, 2011 22:02
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CommanderApaul posted:Any trick to getting the axle to stop spinning while trying to remove the 6 bolts connecting it to the transmission? I've got the axle bolt loosened and the car up on stands, and I'm trying to get the 6 12-point bolts connecting the inner joint to the tranny out, and the fucker just keeps spinning around every time I try to torque it. You won't need an alignment after what you've done here. In fact, there's no reason for an alignment even if you detach the upper control arms. The key to removing the inner axle bolts is to remove them before you remove the axle bolt. To torque them, stick a big flat screwdriver into a vent in the rotor and jam it against the brake caliper.
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Oct 8, 2011 22:12
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my1999gsr posted:You won't need an alignment after what you've done here. In fact, there's no reason for an alignment even if you detach the upper control arms. The key to removing the inner axle bolts is to remove them before you remove the axle bolt. To torque them, stick a big flat screwdriver into a vent in the rotor and jam it against the brake caliper. Have to remember that for the driver's side. I had torqued one of the lugs back down and put my breaker bar on it, braced to the pavement and it didn't work, the axle turned freely with the axle bolt still attached (loosened, but attached). The outer joint was completely destroyed and was turning freely. CommanderApaul fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 03:20
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I know I'm a little late to the discussion here, but for the 3rd generation Golf/Jetta (94-98)the ones built in Germany have held up a lot better than the ones built in Mexico. It mostly has to do with serious rust problems on the underside of the ones built in Mexico. Something to do with the superior German adhesives, or perhaps inferior Mexican adhesives.
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Oct 9, 2011 05:07
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Opensourcepirate posted:I know I'm a little late to the discussion here, but for the 3rd generation Golf/Jetta (94-98)the ones built in Germany have held up a lot better than the ones built in Mexico. It mostly has to do with serious rust problems on the underside of the ones built in Mexico. Something to do with the superior German adhesives, or perhaps inferior Mexican adhesives. Tell us about how this problem is due to being assembled by Mexicans instead of Germans, assuming that it's a real thing.
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Oct 10, 2011 16:30
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I'm not suggesting that Mexicans are inferior at assembling cars, just that there have been quality differences in the past and that there may be quality differences in the present. Edit: I currently own a 98 Jetta TDI that was built in Mexico City. If/when I buy another VW, I'm going to try to get one that was built in Germany. Opensourcepirate fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 20:23
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I have a 97 2.0 manual Jetta that just experienced a pretty large problem. Driving home from work last night my shifter went from loose to completely limp. Moving it from side to side has absolutely no resistance, it just falls over. I'm able to shift into 3rd and 4th, but the other gears are gone. Luckily it was 4 AM and the roads were clear, so I was able to drive home with only 3rd and 4th gear. I'm not too good with home repairs, can I ask how big of a job this would be? Googling tells me it might be some sort of linkage in the shifter and not the transmission itself? Is this something someone with no experience at all should attempt? If not can anyone estimate how many hours of labor I'm looking at with a shop? Thanks for any help.
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Oct 10, 2011 21:13
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Did anyone hear about the recall VW is doing because of some problem with the TDI fuel injectors? When I first heard about it I thought they finally fixed the HPFP, no such luck unfortunately.
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Oct 11, 2011 02:29
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Autism Monday posted:My MKVI GTI has started making a loud screeching noise when I turn into a parking spot at low speed. It made the noise a few times now over the past few days and it happened whether I turn the wheel to the right or to the left. power steering fluid low?
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Oct 11, 2011 14:50
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veedubfreak posted:power steering fluid low? Electric power steering on the MK6
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Oct 11, 2011 16:00
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Autism Monday posted:My MKVI GTI has started making a loud screeching noise when I turn into a parking spot at low speed. It made the noise a few times now over the past few days and it happened whether I turn the wheel to the right or to the left. This was on Car Talk last week or a couple weeks ago? Recently, in any case. You might check their forums or better yet, just listen to the recent episodes. It's a great radio program if you haven't heard it. Throatwarbler posted:Tell us about how this problem is due to being assembled by Mexicans instead of Germans, assuming that it's a real thing. It's very possible that Mexican assembly plants use a different supplier than German assembly plants. It's silly to instantly cry, "Racist!" just because someone points out differences in quality for the same product from different manufacturing locations.
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Oct 11, 2011 16:02
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totalnewbie posted:
That's not what anyone was arguing at all, but I'm not going to spend time addressing a problem that doesn't actually exist so why don't you point out which Mexican supplied part is causing widespread problems?
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Oct 11, 2011 21:02
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?? The person you quoted was talking about possible adhesive differences. I don't know anything about this, I just thought you reacted in a way that didn't really reflect what was being said. I don't even know if there is a difference in rust problems between Mexico/German assembled cars. I do, however, know that different plants (in different locations) can have unique problems even if they use the same supplier. If it just happens that Mexican-assembled cars have problems then that would be an issue with their manufacturing/assembly facility. If it happened to be a problem with German-assembled cars then that particular plant may have a problem somewhere. I don't know how true his assertion that German-assembled cars have held up better than Mexico-assembled cars is but he never said a thing about the fact that it's because the assemblers are Mexican (in fact, he specifically pointed at a [possible] supplier issue) and I don't know why you accused him of saying so. As much as I would like to see Opensourcepirate show warranty data showing Mexico assembled cars having problems, I similarly would like to see you show warranty data showing that there are no problems.
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Oct 11, 2011 22:00
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totalnewbie posted:?? The person you quoted was talking about possible adhesive differences. I don't know anything about this, I just thought you reacted in a way that didn't really reflect what was being said. I don't even know if there is a difference in rust problems between Mexico/German assembled cars. I do, however, know that different plants (in different locations) can have unique problems even if they use the same supplier. If it just happens that Mexican-assembled cars have problems then that would be an issue with their manufacturing/assembly facility. If it happened to be a problem with German-assembled cars then that particular plant may have a problem somewhere. I'm tired and have a plane to catch so I'm not going to recap the whole discussion for you. There are plenty of VW problems that are well documented all over the internet. Go have a look. Then find me one that has been traced to improper assembly by Mexicans or Mexican supplied parts. This is the crux of the matter. Maybe Mexican VWs have more problems, so what? Most VWs sold in the US are made in Mexico, if everything VW makes is garbage, then the Mexican ones are going to be more problematic because there are more of them. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Oct 12, 2011 |
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Oct 12, 2011 04:11
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Ideally, one would think both factories should be using the same parts delivered to their door via whatever transport method. Barring that, each local source would go through some qualification process and then be approved for usage.  My A4 came from Germany, and it still suffers from irritating little problems, clearly those German factory workers don't know what they're doing! e: what's with the coolant threads, I don't get it 
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Oct 12, 2011 07:23
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