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Cat Terrist posted:In other news I measured my sway bars on the WRX because I realised something wasnt right, finally had a look under my partner's 07 WRX there's a obvious size difference. And promptly smacked myself in the head because I realised I have been for three years reading my micrometer wrong. You're using a micrometer to measure your sway bar when there's an obvious difference between the two bars to the naked eye? 
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Oct 10, 2011 01:19
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DreamOn13 posted:You're using a micrometer to measure your sway bar when there's an obvious difference between the two bars to the naked eye? Explains a lot more to the hellascrape category than I ever figured plausible.
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Oct 10, 2011 03:12
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DreamOn13 posted:You're using a micrometer to measure your sway bar when there's an obvious difference between the two bars to the naked eye? Well lets just say it's the first time I've actually checked the swaybar on the 07, so when I did see the size difference I decided to measure ..... And the first time I really looked at the micrometer when I was confused by the mumbers and worked out I have been always looking at Zero 2mm too narrow. It actually more affects the STI as that's the car I've been running sway bar numbers and tests against. I've been running a front bar 2mm bigger than I thought, no wonder I cant get the car right. Thence the front bar is 20mm not 18 which is not good and explains issues and why I've been unsuccessful in finding a front sway bar that works.... maybe a 14mm will work after all. Ont he other hand that is not what I wanted to find on the WRX, as I now find that I have STI swaybars front and rear from the factory. Annoying as I've now done the free castor mod and the car's balance would be helped with a very slight increase in front bar. Means I only have one OEM option.... if I can find it. gently caress
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Oct 10, 2011 04:50
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Should I see any oil (just enough to gather dirt and stuff) at the junction of my turbo inlet and one of the large visible PCV vacuum lines? Or is this indicative of a leak that I should try to fix? I can see some oil as well where the line meets with the upper end, which makes me think it might be an issue, but I don't know enough to say for certain. I've been trying to find the source of a whistling (vacuum leak) that occurs right after the air bypass valve has vented (only happens some days, which makes it difficult to demonstrate for a mechanic), and I've been unable to find it, but thought that perhaps a leak in the PCV system might be the cause, as the sound seems to be coming from the general area of the turbo inlet/intake manifold. It doesn't seem to be too hard to replace, so, I may do it anyways (just in case it's a leak I can't see, and because it only costs me time and vacuum line, and I think 40k, 3 winters, and 300 whp may be enough for some of the lines to start to decay). Unless the consensus is that that would be a waste of time. BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Oct 10, 2011 |
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Oct 10, 2011 04:57
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I let my friend install a new stereo for me and now my boost cluster(factory stock) is all goofed up. The boost gauge itself still works, but the battery voltage gauge and the oil temperature gauge don't work anymore. And when I went out tonight I found out that the illumination.. never turns off. Even when the car is off. I went in and disconnected all the wires to save my battery for the night.. but where are they SUPPOSED to go? I've been hunting the internet trying to figure it out and I'm failing. There's a red cable, black cable(ground obv), yellow cable and a white/blue cable coming out from the boost cluster area. It's a 2003 wrx wagon.
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Oct 10, 2011 05:16
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Is it really worth it to buy snow tires and wheels to avoid running the stock Dunlop tires on the new STis in cold weather? Where I live we get alot of freezing days but probably only a handfull of days with snow on the road. I do want to be able to take snowboards to the mountains though, and those roads are frequently very snowy. Are "ultra high performance" all seasons acceptable for these duties or should I bite the bullet and get snow tires? Any specific recommendations either way?
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Oct 10, 2011 18:08
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I thought those Dunlop tires were summer tires, not all-seasons. If it's below freezing chances are good that you want snow tires, and if you're going into the mountains they're pretty much your only choice as well (tire chains work poorly with cars in my experience).
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Oct 10, 2011 19:40
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Yes, the stock tires are straight up deadly in cold weather even in the dry due to the rubber compound. I run a set of all seasons for about 4 months in the winter.
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Oct 10, 2011 19:40
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Seat- I should have been more clear. I am considering buying some cheaper all season tires or snow tires as the stock Dunlops are summer performance tires. Thanks for the information from you both.
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Oct 10, 2011 19:56
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I ran cheap Sumitomo HTR+ all seasons on my Evo in the winters and did perfectly fine. It's really a matter of whether you want dedicated winter tires vs. tires you can drive on dry pavement on warmer days and still have decent performance. Winter tires will wear a lot faster than all seasons on dry pavement, but obviously give you the most security and grip in the snow. I chose all seasons because it didn't snow enough where I was in the winter to require proper winter tires and I still wanted to drive it like an Evo on dry pavement.
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Oct 10, 2011 20:08
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P1410 came back - thought it was too good to be true. Do I suck it up and replace the valve, knowing that this system is garbage and that it'll just break again? Or do I pull everything out, block the holes in the head, and nuke the CEL's out using my Accessport? I will be moving to CA some time soon, so I'm worried about passing the visual with it out, but I could always just block the heads, disable the CEL's and leave everything more or less in place in the engine compartment. It's kind of hidden, though, so I figure most smog places wouldn't know what to look for.
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Oct 10, 2011 21:41
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Seat- I should have been more clear. I am considering buying some cheaper all season tires or snow tires as the stock Dunlops are summer performance tires.
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Oct 10, 2011 22:18
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My new wheels and tires showed up today As mentioned above Enkei EMK3 wheels (17x7) with Continental ExtremeContact DWS tires (215/50/17). This is my winter set for my 2011 WRX while my 2002 runs ExtremeWinterContacts on stock '02 16s. I may put them on this upcoming weekend or next. It's starting to occasionally dip into the high 30's at night now and one of the reasons why I got all-seasons for the '11 was so that I could swap wheels sooner and not have to watch the forecast like a hawk.
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Oct 10, 2011 23:54
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Anybody have any experience with gutting TGVs? I'm ready to completely hack mine and suppress the CEL but I'm not sure if it will cause issues... http://www.grimmspeed.com/images/product_images/tgv_vs_stock_600_5.jpg
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Oct 11, 2011 00:32
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Should these be OK for a 2011 WRX for Winter Tires? I live in Southern NH and it does get cold and we have a fair amount of snow. At what steady temps should I be using these at or on? Firestone Winterforce winter / snow radials: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...rtnum=155SR6FWF
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Oct 11, 2011 01:27
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draccio posted:Should these be OK for a 2011 WRX for Winter Tires? I live in Southern NH and it does get cold and we have a fair amount of snow. At what steady temps should I be using these at or on? I'm your neighbor. I've been on Southern NH since 86 and I've never bought snow tires in my life. If you are from here, you can drive in the snow just fine without them.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:38
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Howdy neighbor! From what I have read, the summer only tires that come with the WRX are not recommended for winter / snow driving. Forgot what brand they are, Dunlop something. I just do not want to be caught in a ditch because of the tires, just me... 
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Oct 11, 2011 01:41
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Where the hell are you guys in Southern NH? I live just outside of Manchester when I'm not at school in Durham.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:45
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Milford. If you really want to track me down, google the local Subaru dealer, and you will find 20% of my household working there Good point on the stock tires, but I would think you could find something a little more "all season" that will last you a little longer. edit: Stoke Hall 1988. Was an awesome year.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:50
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Around, out running cops and such... daslog, you don't really live near me do you?  Quick posting... Any recommends on inexpensive all seasons? I am getting steel rims with the tires.
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Oct 11, 2011 01:51
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draccio posted:Around, out running cops and such... Just go to Carson city tire in Amherst on 101. They will set you up with a reasonably priced set.
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Oct 11, 2011 02:05
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daslog posted:Milford. If you really want to track me down, google the local Subaru dealer, and you will find 20% of my household working there Milford is my dealer of choice (eff Manch Subaru). Stoke Hall is the same as when you left it, I assure you. That and Ham Smith won't be renovated until they collapse. They're like UNH's Colosseum. I live in Bedford, but am sadly not part of the Dot Com-era money that flooded the place over the past decade. Can't complain though, I don't think I'll ever leave here.
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Oct 11, 2011 02:11
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draccio posted:Quick posting... Any recommends on inexpensive all seasons? I am getting steel rims with the tires. sub-$100 all seasons aren't a hell of a lot better than summers when the snow is flying. Hell, I'd get used snows over new all-season, especially cheap all seasons.
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Oct 11, 2011 04:45
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The ski resort I go to a few times a year is up a road where they sometimes have snow chain checkpoints to verify you have either chains or are in a 4x4. I'd usually bring my chains when I had a chevy tahoe, but even the times they were requiring cars to pull off and chain up they never did anything but wave me through. I have a 2000 outback wagon with 1.5 year old all seasons that the PO put on, I can't remember what they are off the top of my head though. Am I going to have the same good luck or should I buy some chains? Do I need to get chains for all 4 wheels?
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Oct 11, 2011 05:02
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Rontalvos posted:The ski resort I go to a few times a year is up a road where they sometimes have snow chain checkpoints to verify you have either chains or are in a 4x4. I'd usually bring my chains when I had a chevy tahoe, but even the times they were requiring cars to pull off and chain up they never did anything but wave me through. Chains on a subaru? You so crazy
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Oct 11, 2011 07:22
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It's like pulling teeth to get Subaru owners to buy loving snow tires. Shut up and do it, it's the best decision you can make. It's like putting in cheat codes for your winter driving.
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Oct 11, 2011 11:35
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Slow is Fast posted:It's like pulling teeth to get Subaru owners to buy loving snow tires. Shut up and do it, it's the best decision you can make. It's like putting in cheat codes for your winter driving. Seriously. I once swapped out my all seasons just to see how much of a difference I'd see. Driving completely normally, I accidentally ran the first stop sign by 20 feet. Talk about panic... it's seriously night and day.
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Oct 11, 2011 13:37
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bull3964 posted:My new wheels and tires showed up today I'm assuming you will, but please post pictures when you put those on. I have a DGM Legacy, and I've been looking at those exact wheels. Are you going to have the TPMS system linked with them? If so, how much are they charging you, since I understand that they can not do it at any place but a dealership.
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Oct 11, 2011 14:30
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Slow is Fast posted:It's like pulling teeth to get Subaru owners to buy loving snow tires. Shut up and do it, it's the best decision you can make. It's like putting in cheat codes for your winter driving. On the other side of the coin, most people don't live where it's SNOW SNOW SNOW on the roads throughout the whole winter. Winter tires, even performance winter tires, are significantly worse than all-seasons in wet braking and dry braking at and well below freezing. There are many tests that have data to back this up. I had winter tires on my car for the first time ever last year and I felt that I only really NEEDED them all of two days. The vast majority of my winter is commuting on the highway on cold dry roads and roads wet from de-icing and a good set of all-seasons are proven to be better in those conditions than winters. In a climate like southwestern PA, you would ideally have 3 sets of tires to run with (summer, all-season, and winter), but that's just not feasible for most people especially with the way the climate swings. I've found the best compromise is to have one car with winters on it and one car with all-seasons so I don't have to swap tires every other week. AFewBricksShy posted:I'm assuming you will, but please post pictures when you put those on. I have a DGM Legacy, and I've been looking at those exact wheels. I didn't have TMPS sensors installed. I didn't feel spending $160 for the sensors and then spending money to have them linked with the car was a good enough compromise to make a light on the dash go out. When they get put on the car, I'll throw pictures up.
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Oct 11, 2011 17:05
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bull3964 posted:first time ever last year and I felt that I only really NEEDED them all of two days. The vast majority of my winter is commuting on the highway on cold dry roads and roads wet from de-icing and a good set of all-seasons are proven to be better in those conditions than winters. Really? I remember several days we had heavy snow (perhaps only 4-5 days) but many many days when we had some type of snow cover and I was happy to have my blizzaks on. I think I ran mine from Dec ~15 til Late February. The year before that was crazy and we needed them for weeks. Wish I had converted by then. That being said, I do run the 3 tire combo you mention.. but it's more along the lines of: Blizzaks on WRX Dec-Feb All Seasons on WRX rest of the time Summer tires on miata (driven most of the time when its warm) Summer tires on bike (similar)  I don't regret my blizzak purchase.
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Oct 11, 2011 18:13
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The only time last winter where I felt they gave me a significant edge was the snowstorm on Feb 21st. It hit right at rush hour and it dropped 6 inches of snow before I left work. I don't live in a rural area and my commute is all on major state routes or highway. In dusting conditions, I never really felt they gave that much of an advantage over past all seasons I've had and usually the light dusting turns into wet after an hour or so and the salt trucks get on the roads. Even in the snowstorm of Feb 5-6 2010, when it dropped nearly two feet in places and there was layered ice on the roads for a week after, I was fine on my 960as which aren't regarded as all that great of a winter handling all-season tire. What can I say? I have 16 southwestern PA winters under my belt (10 in an AWD car) and only one of them has been with snow tires and I was underwhelmed. It was not this great driving epiphany that I thought it was going to be. Sure, there were noticeable differences under some situations, but there were just as many deficiencies in other situations. If I only had one car to drive, I would not have a set of winter tires. I would likely only do summer and all-season. With my driving, the compromises in clear/wet road performance are too great to justify the edge on snow covered roads. In other words, I'm not going to handicap my ability to respond to emergency situations during 90% of my driving so I can respond better for 10% of it. It's not a good risk assessment.
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Oct 11, 2011 18:49
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Just out of interest, what kind of winter tires were you on? I ran WS70s and only noticed a drop in handling.. then again I was coming from Bridgestone G019s and they're not as nice as your 960s
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Oct 11, 2011 19:16
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Blaise posted:Just out of interest, what kind of winter tires were you on? I ran WS70s and only noticed a drop in handling.. then again I was coming from Bridgestone G019s and they're not as nice as your 960s Continental ExtremeWinterContacts. This is one of the tests I was talking about. http://www.caranddriver.com/features/09q4/2009_winter_tire_test-comparison_tests Similar tests have been done in Europe and Russia to much the same results If you compare the Michelin X-Ice Xi2 (which are all in the same performance range of the EWC and WS70s) to the Pilot Sport A/S (not even the best foul weather handling UHP all-season out there) the difference is striking. Wet braking at 23 degrees F (so well under freezing), representing most chemically treated roads out there in the winter. The UHP All-season brakes 35 feet shorter from 60mph than the winter tire. The situation is the same in the cold dry (also 23 degrees F), the UHP all-season out-brakes the winter by 30 ft. The performance winter trails the UHP All-season in those conditions as well, but not by such a wide margin. If you really look at things, braking from 30 mph in the snow grants the snow tire roughly the same advantage (40ft) as the UHP all-season has on 23F wet roads from 60mph (35 feet). At that point, it comes down to figuring out what conditions you find yourself in more often during the winter months. You'll also notice that the snow tests were done at 12F. There has been mounting data that shows that the current crop of studless ice and snow tires don't start reaching the highest levels of their grip until you get well below 20F and get closer to 0-10F. Most are actually starting to recommend people who have warmer winters get a studdable winter tire without the studs as a better compromise. The wide void areas and more aggressive tread make the most difference in warmer snowy conditions while the extreme siping and exotic compounds of the studless ice and snow really don't start making a difference until it gets much much colder. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Oct 11, 2011 |
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Oct 11, 2011 20:14
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Slow is Fast posted:It's like pulling teeth to get Subaru owners to buy loving snow tires. Shut up and do it, it's the best decision you can make. It's like putting in cheat codes for your winter driving. I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year.
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Oct 11, 2011 20:53
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Rontalvos posted:I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year. In my experience the guys know Subarus are AWD. If you're worried and still have the chains from the other car just put them in the back seat and point to them. Check all the regulations though, sometimes you need the tires that are M+S rated. I haven't lived in California in a few years though.
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Oct 11, 2011 21:33
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Does anyone know if the Kartboy Short Shifter and Bushings kit for a USDM 04+ STI will fit on a V7 STI tranny? I suspect yes, but wouldn't mind confirming with someone who has done it.
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Oct 11, 2011 21:45
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Rontalvos posted:I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year. There are three "conditions" in CA that require the use of chains: Cal Trans posted:
So basically, you should always carry a set of snow chains for at least one axle at all times when going through snow in CA. Do you HAVE to? Well I've never encountered a situation where I had to have chains, but there have been several times where I was stopped while driving up to Big Bear to make sure I had them. (Though not since I have been driving my lifted Jeep 4x4 on 31" BFG AT's. They just wave me by). But if it does get to the R-3 condition, that usually means they will close the road anyway. I went to Big Bear a few years ago in a huge snow storm and the police and rangers were checking every car for chains. They pulled anyone over that didn't have them, and you either had to buy them on the spot for a LOT of money or turn around and buy them somewhere else or go home. Edit: One thing I did see which was interesting in their FAQ is this: Cal Trans posted:Are “all-weather” or “all-terrain” tires the same as “snow” tires? BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Oct 11, 2011 |
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Oct 11, 2011 22:57
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Thanks for the information. I probably will go for the Firestone Winterforce and put them on as late as I can. What temps should I worry about with the stock summer tires?
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Oct 11, 2011 23:54
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Rontalvos posted:I lived in central california where at 300 feet above sea level it gets down to 45 degrees in the winter. Now I live in Los Angeles. I don't need snow tires, I just wanted to know if people like the forest service recognize that a subaru has AWD and won't bitch about me not carrying chains when I drive to the ski resort a half dozen times a year. AWD doesn't help your braking.
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Oct 12, 2011 00:59
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bull3964 posted:Continental ExtremeWinterContacts. Looks like unless you're gonna do hardcore snow/ice driving (which I do -- ice racing), performance snows are the way to go. 5 feet loss in braking from 60-0 is acceptable to me to gain the traction when it does snow. From that, if the tests hold up in the future, unless I continue to ice race I will choose a performance snow tire and a summer only tire. Thanks for the info!!!!!
Blaise fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Oct 12, 2011 |
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Oct 12, 2011 03:38
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