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clutchpuck posted:I'd rate it 3/5 only because it tastes pretty drat ordinary. I sort of feel the same way about my most recent beer; my Bitter is pretty good, but I'm not in love.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 14:45 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:38 |
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Can cutting down mid-boil hops from 1oz to .75oz throw your OG up .20 points? This is the second time I've made this kit, first was on target, this one was supposed to be in the .40's but going into the primary it was about .65. WTF
Morbid Florist fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Oct 10, 2011 |
# ? Oct 10, 2011 15:58 |
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Morbid Florist posted:Can cutting down mid-boil hops from 1oz to .75oz throw your OG up .20 points? This is the second time I've made this kit, first was on target, this one was supposed to be in the .40's but going into the primary it was about .65. WTF No, hops have no effect on gravity. Probably one of two things. Either you didn't use quite enough top-up water, or the extract didn't completely dissolve and you happened to sample an especially sugary part. Extract is really hard to completely and evenly dissolve.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 16:24 |
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Docjowles posted:No, hops have no effect on gravity. Probably one of two things. Either you didn't use quite enough top-up water, or the extract didn't completely dissolve and you happened to sample an especially sugary part. Extract is really hard to completely and evenly dissolve. Alright the extract would be a good suspect. It was a powder and I do prefer syrup for the incorporation difference. Crushing bagged coloring grains couldn't do that much damage I assume, especially since I didn't do that thorough of a job cracking them. Guess I'll find out in a few weeks. Thanks for the tip
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 16:45 |
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That's another thing to consider - if the recipe was written for syrup, but you subbed in dry extract pound for pound, you would get a higher gravity than projected, as dry extract contributes a little more gravity per pound.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 17:00 |
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Jo3sh posted:That's another thing to consider - if the recipe was written for syrup, but you subbed in dry extract pound for pound, you would get a higher gravity than projected, as dry extract contributes a little more gravity per pound. I don't believe it was made for syrup but I don't have the recipe in front of me at work. But the kits I've done with syrup in them have been WAY better to work in the wort. I may actually try and swap the dry with syrup next time I make it since this beer seems to be my guinea pig now. But anyways, hops were the only tinkering this time. I'll have to look at the original recipe from the first batch but I'm pretty sure this was a dry extract beer by design.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 18:45 |
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I haven't ever seen this question asked, and I know it's 100% opinion but I still would like some suggestions of having a diverse lineup of styles on tap. I've currently got a quad that's getting bottled and a SMaSH casade/MO for the keg. I need 3 more brews to keg plus another couple to ferment as backups. I'd like to brew a dark malty brew like a porter or stout. After that I'm kinda lost as to what else to brew so I can have a nice lineup for guests. I have the following yeasts: 1275, 3711, 1968, 2308 I'll probably end up doing an IPA last (so it'll be freshest) since every likes those. What else should I brew? What do you all have on tap now? This all kinda started because last time around I had 4 pale beers on tap and it was kinda boring, I want to have a good variety this time.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 20:51 |
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tesilential posted:I haven't ever seen this question asked, and I know it's 100% opinion but I still would like some suggestions of having a diverse lineup of styles on tap. For the 3711 Yeast, I might suggest This. I brewed it, but with white labs WLP565 (platinum saison), frech strisselspalt hops in place of perle/saaz, and got about the same flavor profile as described. It's an awesome beer. It's currently all I have on tap, but an APA should be ready in ~2-3 weeks.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 20:58 |
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tesilential posted:I haven't ever seen this question asked, and I know it's 100% opinion but I still would like some suggestions of having a diverse lineup of styles on tap. My current tap list is: Strong red after Lagunitas' Hairy Eyeball fortified cider All-Sorachi Ace IPA In bottles, I have some dark Belgian quad. In fermenters is a Dusseldorf alt. High on my list of probable upcoming batches: Oatmeal stout Winter warmer (brown and spiced) Barleywine Munich/Saaz SMASH For you, I'd suggest doing something big pretty soon so that it has time to age a bit for the holidays - a barleywine maybe. Next, something dark like an export stout or robust porter. Maybe a Kolsch for holiday drinking by those who want homebrew but aren't into bitter or dark beers. IPA last so it will be fresh.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 21:03 |
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You sort of allude to this being an event, instead of just having whatever ready whenever. Am I reading too much into it? Depending on the crowd, you'd probably want to favor session style beers (kolsch, any bitter/pale ale, dry stout, brown ale, various hybrids) and maybe one or two funkier ones (your quad, dipa, rauchbier, spiced).
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 21:08 |
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Thanks for the replies I've gotta go through yours again Josh. Don't like barleywine so I'll probably skip that one though . Tetron, thanks but I'm looking for styles rather than recipes. Trying to find a good balance. Darth Goku Jr posted:You sort of allude to this being an event, instead of just having whatever ready whenever. Am I reading too much into it? It's not an event but I will be having people over semi regularly and want a good variety of brews. Last time I had a full lineup it was ESB (kinda boring), IPA (great), Helles (meh), saison (edit: really good). Maybe I'll brew a bigger oatmeal stout have something heavy. tesilential fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Oct 10, 2011 |
# ? Oct 10, 2011 22:58 |
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So I ordered 2 pounds of grains for my extract wheat porter. Turns out, 2 pounds of grain is a pretty good amount for a cheesecloth bag. Was thinking of doing something along the lines of a BIAB. I've got some paint strainer bags so is the process to just dump them in, raise the temp to 150 and let it sit for 50 minutes or so then pull the grain out?
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 23:48 |
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What kind of grains? Some don't have fermentable sugars, in which case you just want to dunk them in hot water for 30 minutes or so, like making tea. Others you would want to mash properly, watching your temps more carefully.
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# ? Oct 10, 2011 23:57 |
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Anyone have any general water tweaking recommendations for fixing what I can really only describe as a really boring, flat hop flavor? It looks like my sulfate levels are pretty low at 15 ppm, so I'm going to try and aim for about 75 ppm in my next hoppy beer. My chloride is pretty low too - 22 ppm, so I'm going to bump that up to about 50. Part of the problem is that it seems pretty tough to find any sources online that aren't either too general or way too specific.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 02:32 |
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Prefect Six posted:So I ordered 2 pounds of grains for my extract wheat porter. Turns out, 2 pounds of grain is a pretty good amount for a cheesecloth bag. Was thinking of doing something along the lines of a BIAB. I've got some paint strainer bags so is the process to just dump them in, raise the temp to 150 and let it sit for 50 minutes or so then pull the grain out? Use https://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml to calculate your strike temp. Basically heat the water by itself to around 160 (this depends on your target mash temp) and then turn off the heat and add the grains in paint strainer bag and stir well. You may or may not have to apply low heat to hold your mash temp. What I do is heat the water, pour it into a fermenting bucket and add my grains. Then I cover with a lid and wrap with a bed comforter and leave it alone. If I had a bigger pot I would mash in the pot on the stove and keep the heat on 2-3 (out of 10) checking the temp to make sure it didn't get too hot. Once the mash is done (60+ minutes or check for conversion with iodine, it can be done much sooner) remove the grains and let the bag drip. I add 1 gal cold water to the grain bag to my empty kettle and kind of do a mini-spare. Afterwards I squeeze the grains to get as much wort as I can. My beer doesn't have tannins or whatever and most of them are crystal clear. May I suggest you double crush the grains (run through the mill twice). I usually do with ~85% efficiency, but just crushed once last week and had ~60% efficiency. EDIT: My bad I thought you were doing an all grain BIAB. If you are just steeping grains then let it get to 155* or whatever and toss the grains in and go have a beer. tesilential fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 03:08 |
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RiggenBlaque posted:Anyone have any general water tweaking recommendations for fixing what I can really only describe as a really boring, flat hop flavor? It looks like my sulfate levels are pretty low at 15 ppm, so I'm going to try and aim for about 75 ppm in my next hoppy beer. My chloride is pretty low too - 22 ppm, so I'm going to bump that up to about 50. I'm far from an expert, but I've been using the rough guidelines from this post with good results. Basically try adding 1tsp each of gypsum and calcium chloride per 5 gallons of brewing water next time and see how you like it.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 03:09 |
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wafflesnsegways posted:What kind of grains? Some don't have fermentable sugars, in which case you just want to dunk them in hot water for 30 minutes or so, like making tea. Others you would want to mash properly, watching your temps more carefully. 1 pound of chocolate wheat, .5 pounds of carawheat and .5 pounds of roasted barley.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 03:09 |
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RiggenBlaque posted:Part of the problem is that it seems pretty tough to find any sources online that aren't either too general or way too specific. The How to Brew book has an excellent chapter on water, it may look advanced at first but that's just explaining the nomagraph, which is really easy actually.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 03:50 |
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Prefect Six posted:1 pound of chocolate wheat, .5 pounds of carawheat and .5 pounds of roasted barley. No need to convert any of those - just a steep will do, so temperature is less critical than if you were doing a mash. It would be best if you didn't exceed 165 or so, to avoid extracting tannins from the husks.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 03:50 |
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Ok, so here is my attempt at a first all grain recipe. I'm doing BIAB and want to do a dark spiced lager to be ready around Christmas. Any and all suggestions are appreciated as I have pretty much no experience beyond doing a few extract kits. Amt Name Type 9 lbs - Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 9 lbs - Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 1 lbs - Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 1.50 oz - Cluster [7.00 %] - Boil 90.0 min Hop 16.7 IBUs 2.00 oz - Tettnang [4.50 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 4.9 IBUs 0.20 oz - Cinnamon Stick (Boil 5.0 mins) Spice 1.0 pkg - Munich Lager (Wyeast Labs #2308) Yeast Est Original Gravity: 1.051 SG Est Final Gravity: 1.011 SG Bitterness: 21.6 IBUs Est Color: 19.3 SRM Saccharification Add 53.57 qt of water and heat to 152.0 F over 10 min 152.0 F 75 min Mash Out Add 0.00 qt of water and heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min Mash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No sparging. This is a medium body beer profile. I basically used a Munich Dunkel as the base and the recommended cinnamon amounts from beersmith. I figured the sort of nutty/bready flavor of a dunkel would go well with cinnamon for a nice spiced holiday beer. Daedalus Esquire fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 04:13 |
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Ok, so here is my attempt at a first all grain recipe. That's a huge grain bill unless that's a 10 gallon / 19L batch. For five gallons, I have to assume 40% efficiency to get in the ballpark.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 04:39 |
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Oh yea, forgot to mention it's a 10 gallon. And, I'm going to use Czech Pilsner Lager (Wyeast Labs #2278) instead, since my basement is slightly too warm for the Wyeast 2308.
Daedalus Esquire fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 04:44 |
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Daedalus Esquire posted:I basically used a Munich Dunkel as the base and the recommended cinnamon amounts from beersmith. A traditional munich dunkel is basically 100% munich malt, with an ounce or two of carafa III for color. That much chocolate malt is definitely going to give you a roasty flavor you don't want in a munich dunkel. One of my favorite beers I've made is a munich dunkel and I did 60% dark munich and 40% light munich with 2 oz of carafa III for color. The carafa is dehusked so you don't get the roasted flavors that you get from other black malts. That recipe you have posted is more of a low gravity baltic porter. I'm not saying it would be a bad beer but if you're going for a munich dunkel it'll be off base. If you want to go with that recipe and go for more of a porter lager I'd add about 5-8% crystal malt. Josh Wow fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 05:22 |
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Jo3sh posted:My current tap list is: A strong red sounds delicious and interesting! I hadn't ever considered brewing something like that. I'll probably try that and an oatmeal, cream or milk stout. I personally don't like much bitterness in my stouts and none in porters. Stouts I like balanced, with some bitterness from the roasted barley to be present. I love chocolate malt in porters. edit: I forgot to ask, how is the All-Sorachi Ace IPA? I've never tried those hops and only seen them in an all-sorachi saison at the beer store. tesilential fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 05:56 |
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I saw this in the coupon and deals forum. Refractometers are on sale. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASIN=B000FBL2G0 6 Gallon carboys on sale too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASIN=B002VFXW5W
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 14:51 |
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tesilential posted:A strong red sounds delicious and interesting! I hadn't ever considered brewing something like that. http://hopville.com/recipe/619172/home-brew/hairball There are two yeasts listed because I split this into two fermenters. Overall, I liked the English yeast better for this one, but there was nothing wrong with the American one, either. Be aware this may not be what you are thinking of - Hairy Eyeball is a caramel bomb, and while this is toned down from that (making, IMO, a better beer than theirs), it's still long on caramel. tesilential posted:edit: I forgot to ask, how is the All-Sorachi Ace IPA? I've never tried those hops and only seen them in an all-sorachi saison at the beer store. It's really, really good. http://hopville.com/recipe/770950/home-brew/usagi-iii There's a lot going on with the hops that you just don't see with American types - tons of neat floral aromatics and a lemon-peel kind of flavor. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 15:26 |
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Yesterday we had a triple brewday. I made a blonde ale and a big stout, and a friend came and did another big stout. I got all set up and started heating water by 10am, which is a first. This is after about 7 hours of brewing, and we're on our last batches and I'm in the midst of cleaning my HLT and MLT. The driveway sort of exploded in stainless and plastic. Nearly time to chill the boil. I use an immersion chiller and recirculate with the pump to get things to hurry up and clear up the wort.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 15:27 |
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This is kind of an awkward question, but can anyone that owns Radical Brewing repost the 'recipe' for the oatmeal cookie brown ale from the holiday beer section? I for the life of me can't find my copy right now and I'd like to make it to my LHBS today or tomorrow.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 15:53 |
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quote:P. 149 I've made this twice and actually really liked it. It's mostly just a brown ale with a really nice biscuity toasty character and an awesome head. A really light hand with some spices would probably go really really well. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 16:14 |
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I don't know if there's such thing as an "alt-bock" but the wife wants a bock and lagering at proper temp is currently unfeasible for me. I hear a Kolsch style yeast is a good ale yeast to use for something like this. According to Wyeast "Beers will exhibit some of the fruity character of an ale, with a clean lager like profile. It produces low or no detectable levels of diacetyl." - sounds about perfect.5 gal recipe as it currently stands posted:Single infusion, mash-out, batch sparge: I'm thinking this recipe with 14 days primary and 14 secondary should produce something pretty drinkable. What do you think? Also, is it a good idea to condition in the same keg it'll be served from? Seems like it could streamline the process.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 18:00 |
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That's a great looking stand Hypnolobster. I'm at the point where I want to start building a brew stand and have looked at the Brewtus. What are the dimensions of yours? Is there anything you wish you would have done differently? added, not added? Do you still have the schematics? These questions area really for everyone who has built or owns a stand.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 20:38 |
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I Love Topanga posted:That's a great looking stand Hypnolobster. I'm at the point where I want to start building a brew stand and have looked at the Brewtus. What are the dimensions of yours? Is there anything you wish you would have done differently? added, not added? Do you still have the schematics? If you really want the plans, BYO sells them for 3 bux or something, for the original brutus 10.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 20:53 |
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Hypnolobster posted:I've made this twice and actually really liked it. It's mostly just a brown ale with a really nice biscuity toasty character and an awesome head. A really light hand with some spices would probably go really really well. Thanks a lot. Ugh I'm going to have to buy the book again, it was way too awesome to not have around.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 23:27 |
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I Love Topanga posted:That's a great looking stand Hypnolobster. I'm at the point where I want to start building a brew stand and have looked at the Brewtus. What are the dimensions of yours? Is there anything you wish you would have done differently? added, not added? Do you still have the schematics? Thanks. I designed this off of a bare necessities, double pump 3 burner sort of idea. I've got an e-RIMS tube and a control panel I've been building, but I'll be making a new stand out of stainless that's a little bit bigger in all directions and with different supports. Don't know when I'll actually do that though, because so far I absolutely love brewing on this setup. Here are my sketchup plans: http://i.imgur.com/deeAz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FIpnH.jpg and a really horrible never kept up with build thread on HBT http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/neverending-single-tier-electric-brewstand-build-236871/ These are my sketchup files. One is the 2D plans, the other is a 3D plan that shows the 3 parts of the stand and how they go together (top and a bottom and then the uprights are inset), and the last is a cutlist to make it out of two sticks of 1.5" 16 gauge box tube. http://www.mediafire.com/?8j536saj94k6a1f 2D http://www.mediafire.com/?qddrv2dj5zf9nam 3D http://www.mediafire.com/?tnmxrwgwfbx893u Cutlist Next time I'd most likely use larger wheels (which I still plan to do on this stand when I get around to it. Probably 6" semi-hard wheels or a little larger) and mount them out from the stand instead of inset. I want a little more stability on the off chance that I move it around when it's got pots on it. I'd make it about 3" taller between the top and bottom frame, too. I want more height between my pump and the outlets on my pot. Everybody keeps the pump too close and they don't get the wonderful nearly self priming action that march pumps can do. e: and if you build it out of mild steel, you really really should spend the extra money and have the thing ceramic coated. High temp paint universally sucks. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Oct 11, 2011 |
# ? Oct 11, 2011 23:35 |
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Cointelprofessional posted:I saw this in the coupon and deals forum. Is this always $30 or is that the sale price?
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# ? Oct 12, 2011 01:51 |
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Globochem posted:Is this always $30 or is that the sale price? Camelcamelcamel says that it seems to always have been priced that much. It was 28.07 for a while though.
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# ? Oct 12, 2011 20:34 |
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$30 with Prime shipping is kind of a steal. I'll probably get a couple once I'm back from New York
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# ? Oct 12, 2011 21:38 |
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Just poured my first couple glasses of the pilsner I've been lagering the last month. Not sure what to make of it. It has a smell I can only describe as "yeasty", so hopefully it's just sediment at the bottom of the keg. Also a bit cloudy so I'm doubling down on that assumption. Worst comes to worst I can hit it with gelatin til I can read this thread through the glass. Beyond that, it's surprisingly bitter and minerally considering I used a Bohemian pilsner recipe. I didn't bother to dilute my tap water and while it's pretty soft, I guess it wasn't soft enough. Assuming the yeast character goes away I'd like to enter it in a competition for feedback (and mad medals, bro). Seems like Dortmunder Export would be my best bet for matching flavor profile to a style?
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 03:10 |
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Bottled my Northern Brewer Black IPA and oh man the hop aroma is great. It tastes great too, I'm so excited to drink this beer! Added bonus my wife gave me the green light on a kegging set up.
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 03:32 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 05:38 |
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Docjowles posted:Beyond that, it's surprisingly bitter and minerally considering I used a Bohemian pilsner recipe. I didn't bother to dilute my tap water and while it's pretty soft, I guess it wasn't soft enough. Assuming the yeast character goes away I'd like to enter it in a competition for feedback (and mad medals, bro). Seems like Dortmunder Export would be my best bet for matching flavor profile to a style?
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 03:38 |