|
daslog posted:AWD doesn't help your braking. Wrong. This is well known in rallying that AWD has a positive effect in resisting brake lock and it does transfer across to the road and narky conditions.
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 03:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 09:45 |
|
|
A) Isn't brake lock good for stopping in deep(er) snow? B) How exactly does all the wheels being driven change the friction coefficient?
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 05:21
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Looks like unless you're gonna do hardcore snow/ice driving (which I do -- ice racing), performance snows are the way to go. 5 feet loss in braking from 60-0 is acceptable to me to gain the traction when it does snow. From that, if the tests hold up in the future, unless I continue to ice race I will choose a performance snow tire and a summer only tire. Only real problem is that the performance snows offer little performance gains over all seasons on ice (which is by far the most dangerous winter condition around here.) In fact the studless ice and snow tires don't start offering great performance on ice until it gets REALLY cold (like < 10F cold). Most of the newer test data is saying studs are the way to go for dealing with glare ice and the like in warmer conditions, but who wants to drive around on studs for most of the winter? Personally, even with AWD and snows and whatever, I tend to just stay the gently caress off the roads when they are bad now unless I really have to. No matter how well I equip myself, it only takes a single jackass on balding OEM tires with 40k miles on them to ruin my day. That Feb 21st storm? I almost got taken out by a UPS truck with chains fishtailing to start from a stop at a light going up hill only 2 miles from leaving the office. Then there was the sideways blazer 500 feet further up the road that 3 cars were trying to get around and failing. On top of that, I had to take about 3 detours on the way home due to people getting stuck and literally clogging up the roads. That poo poo is nerve wracking no matter what you are driving. Some other things to think about is how fast tire technology moves. New modern all-seasons of today can in most cases dispatch both summer tires from 10 years ago and winter tires from 10 years ago. Also, just because they divide categories up for marketing purposes, the performance scale is more of a gradual curve depending on tire choice. All-season oriented performance winter tires are becoming more and more common among tire manufacturers as more cars ship from the factory with summer tires stock. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Oct 12, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 05:35
|
|
|
hallebarrysoetoro posted:A) Isn't brake lock good for stopping in deep(er) snow? quote:B) How exactly does all the wheels being driven change the friction coefficient? As braking force is increased, you suddenly transition from rolling friction to kinetic friction, which are different coefficients. By having more rotating mass to adjust around, lockup is probably easier to avoid.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 05:35
|
|
|
I installed a backup camera on my 2010 WRX. lovely camera-phone pic ahoy!
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 06:20
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:As braking force is increased, you suddenly transition from rolling friction to kinetic friction, which are different coefficients. By having more rotating mass to adjust around, lockup is probably easier to avoid. They're different coefficients, but they're still constrained by rubber on snow. Especially in snow, the friction difference is miniscule whether it is static or kinetic. As far as rotating mass and lockup, any (miniscule) benefit will be offset by having the extra weight of the drivetrain pushing the car forward. Plus, again, the ABS is going to want to prevent the tire from locking up and the wheel/tire itself is going to matter more for the rotating mass than a driven hub.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 07:32
|
|
|
hallebarrysoetoro posted:A) Isn't brake lock good for stopping in deep(er) snow?  I've explained this a number of times. The interconnected nature of Subaru AWD means that the braking system uses every scrap of braking performance availible as it resists quite well one wheel locking, you have to in effect lock all four. The driveline mass also needs to be stopped. The engine also needs to be stopped. This stops the wheels from going into a slide for longer than a FWD or RWD car, where at least two wheels are freewheeling and much easier to stop. That raw friction availible number is not the be all and end all - when you have that rotational mass that doesnt want to be stopped it very much helps exploit all the traction possible. So if you come barrelling into a corner even in poo poo conditions and you want to stop as hard as possible then yes AWD does aid braking performance. And this isnt some loon just making poo poo up, it's a known advantage of AWD and best exampled by AWD rally cars having markedly better stopping distances over two wheel drive vehicles in icy and snow bound conditions, even if everything else is equal like suspension and tyres. It's also a fact I exploit in my own rallying to be the last of the late brakers.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 08:04
|
|
|
I just had an Exedy "Stage 1" clutch and ACT Streetlite flywheel installed on an 04 WRX along with a Group-N "dogbone" and holy hell does this setup chatter like a mofo from a dead stop. It went from buttery smooth engagement to either chatter the hell out of it while slipping it or just dump the fucker. It chatters so bad it causes my exhaust to hit the rear diff and I feel vibration through the steering wheel. Please tell me this will get better with the breakin so I can sleep better tonight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 10:42
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:Wrong. This is well known in rallying that AWD has a positive effect in resisting brake lock and it does transfer across to the road and narky conditions. You completely missed the point.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 12:24
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:
So if we're trying to stop one wheel from locking, isn't there some sort of system in cars nowadays that prevents wheels from locking? Like an "anti brake lock" or something. I like what you're trying to get at but this is like when you said intake restrictors increased torque above and beyond what an unrestricted car normally produced. If one car has the ability to correct itself or claw its way through a turn of course the AWD car will come barrel assing into a turn. You're confusing ability to navigate a corner with superior braking ability. That does translate into the real world -- the same way ABS allows people to steer in a panic stop, AWD lets you steer in an emergency during poor road conditions so long as you're not particularly interested in slowing down.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 14:00
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Only real problem is that the performance snows offer little performance gains over all seasons on ice (which is by far the most dangerous winter condition around here.) Got another cool link to show this off? I was very VERY pleased with my WS70s on ice but would love to see how the performance snows do.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 14:56
|
|
|
Took a few photos of my car so I figured I would share,  A bunch more if anyone is interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/docmonstereyes/sets/72157626891597001/
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 20:33
|
|
|
I like black legacys 
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 20:53
|
|
|
hallebarrysoetoro posted:I like what you're trying to get at but this is like when you said intake restrictors increased torque above and beyond what an unrestricted car normally produced. Which I proved.... with actual dyno graphs on my car. I might say poo poo against what is "common knowkledge" but the problem for you is that the effects are real and known, exactly like the AWD braking effect which is real and known. I can guarentte that all other things equal a AWD will stop noticably better in lousy conditions over it's 2WD bethern The alternative is that there is an extra dimension populated by little LEGO men that as soon as a AWD rally car comes howling into a corner, they appear, build a tarmac path for the AWD car, then sneakily pull it all up and spray ice for the 2WDs to explain why this happens.
|
|
#
?
Oct 12, 2011 23:57
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:Which I proved.... with actual dyno graphs on my car. Quite interesting. Have a link to this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 00:35
|
|
|
Im thinking about buying this car or a Legacy wagon thats also an Outback and near the same vintage. So far I know to avoid the dual overhead cam engine and get a single if possible. How are the autos in these? If something were to happen to it is it difficult to do a perfect 5 speed swap if I can find the right donor car? What other cars (years, models) would be good donors. If stuff from much older, rustier and therefore cheaper to buy cars are an option it makes risking an auto one for now more attractive. I wont buy one with any body rust so that's not a concern. I think the ad just means the door, hopefully. http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/2644259092.html Anything else I should look out for that is Subaru specific? Does anyone here know of good tech articles I should check out? Sorry to dive right in the middle of the thread like this but I know you guys will know everything I need to know, you know? I can't drive my winter beater truck as much this winter because it literally gets on average 8 miles per gallon. Plus Outbacks look neato.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 02:09
|
|
|
Billy Tully posted:Im thinking about buying this car or a Legacy wagon thats also an Outback and near the same vintage. So far I know to avoid the dual overhead cam engine and get a single if possible. The auto will hold up better than the 5 speed, but the 5 speeds aren't exactly glass either. I just do stupid stuff with my car and break them. If you swap a gearbox, you also have to swap in a matching rear diff. It's not exactly hard to do a gearbox out gearbox in, but if it's your DD, just buy the gearbox you want the first time around. New England cars will also need some extra coercing to get them apart. Plus you got to figure, buying a car, vs buying a car + gearbox + clutch setup. NE isn't exactly an area lacking in Subarus anyways. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Oct 13, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 02:39
|
|
|
Good to know, thanks. I'm fine with the auto if its a good one. It will be my DD so it will be stock anyway. No kidding about the amount of Subarus around here and for great prices.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 02:57
|
|
|
I have a 98 legacy with 240k on the original auto transmission. After some adjustment and fluid flush, the silly thing works perfectly. AWD works, no binding, etc. No delay in shifting, hard shifting, blah blah. I bought the car fully intending to swap it right off, I even have all the parts. Now I'm sort of attached to the thing. If the auto works fine when you get it, chances are with some maintenance it'll last a good while longer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 03:08
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:P1410 came back - thought it was too good to be true. Anyone? Just reset my codes again, now I have P1410, P2441 and 2443 popping up. Secondary air injection system switching valve stuck closed, bank 1 and bank 2.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 03:41
|
|
|
I have P1133 on an H4 5sp 2000 OBW, the internet tells me that COULD be the front/upstream O2 sensor? Deuce, it doesn't matter what it looks like, from what I understand here in California it's 99% up to the tailpipe sniffer whether you pass or fail. Nobody will know you've plugged the system unless it fails smog. You could always try one of the smaller no pass no pay stations and then re-install the components if it fails. You've bought OEM valves for the air injection system and replaced them recently?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 05:07
|
|
|
I'm really trying to avoid buying the valves because they're $300 a piece, fail all the time due to lovely design, and can be removed without repercussions.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 05:11
|
|
|
I'm going to be hitting a few salvage yards tomorrow afternoon in SoCal, lemme know what I'm looking for and I can keep an eye out and see if I can find some for you if you'd like? I have PM or email me at username @ gmail. Edit: They're that expensive even on rockauto?
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 08:50
|
|
|
chrisgt posted:I have a 98 legacy with 240k on the original auto transmission. After some adjustment and fluid flush, the silly thing works perfectly. AWD works, no binding, etc. No delay in shifting, hard shifting, blah blah. I bought the car fully intending to swap it right off, I even have all the parts. Now I'm sort of attached to the thing. If the auto works fine when you get it, chances are with some maintenance it'll last a good while longer. Exactly what I needed to know. It would actually be nice to have an auto since every thing I drive is a stick right now. You guys rock, thanks. Depending on the weather I might go check out that car today.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 11:43
|
|
|
I'm thinking about buying a used set of wheels, but my 2011 has tire pressure sensors. If I can't handle the light on the dash, what are my options? Something tells me if I go to the dealer to install everything I'm going to get raped.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 15:30
|
|
|
Anyone with an STI 6-speed getting 1-2 shift grind when shifting too fast? I'm in the bad habit from my RX-7, and RX-8, and even after a year of owning the car I still manage to do it every now and then. I've heard the strategy of waiting for your weight to lift off the seat to shift, but I just cant seem to get it just right when really getting on it. What is the cause of this? I absolutely love the 6-speed, and this is my only real gripe. PS: The colder weather is reminding me how quick these cars are with a proper tune and exhaust. Night and day difference from the hot rear end summer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 19:32
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm really trying to avoid buying the valves because they're $300 a piece, fail all the time due to lovely design, and can be removed without repercussions. no warranty on any of that? I'd just rip it all out. You do need to keep the valve with the 5-pin connector plugged in though because there's a pressure sensor the car needs. Although cobb or someone might have a way around that now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 20:32
|
|
|
jamal posted:no warranty on any of that? Sadly, no, expired about 12k miles ago. I've seen that lots of people have just cut the atmospheric sensor out of that valve, looks pretty easy. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 20:43
|
|
|
I'm a walking AI cliche... Before: 2008 Mazda 3i  After: 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited  Absolutely in love with this car so far. Winter wheels/tires are gonna be ordered in a few weeks and then in the spring I may do a Cobb Accesport and AEM intake. Need to learn how to drive the car stock before I do anything vaguely interesting. 800 miles on it right now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 20:48
|
|
|
Finally, my overboosting is fixed (external wastegate was failing bigtime - not fully opening). Now to just figure out what's keeping me 2 psi under target. Would not having the banjo bolt/nipple installed on the top end of the wastegate cause it to open early or anything? I was only thinking this because the solenoid pulses the EWG, and less restriction might change the rate at which the gate opens from what it was tuned for. Otherwise? No overboosting, no more fear of stamping on the throttle whenever I'd like, and I can finally go back and autocross a few times before the end of the season!
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 21:16
|
|
|
So is there a super-secret place to find the bits of an STI that I would need to swap an engine/transmission into my Legacy? I just don't want to pay an arm and a leg for a fully tuned engine. I would probably rather just pay a grand or so for an older one that I can fiddle with and make awesome on my own. That said, I have no desire to buy an engine on eBay.
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2011 23:18
|
|
|
Shrapnac posted:After: 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited Definitely get a decent winter wheel/tire setup. I lowered down to 17-inchers, which makes the whole thing a bit cheaper, gives you more options, and is a lot more forgiving of all of the potholes and crap that develop in the winter.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 02:01
|
|
|
VolumeBroadcast posted:Anyone with an STI 6-speed getting 1-2 shift grind when shifting too fast? I'm in the bad habit from my RX-7, and RX-8, and even after a year of owning the car I still manage to do it every now and then. What year is your STI? I have the latest gen US, stock, and have no grinding at all.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 02:03
|
|
|
Exxon Hess posted:Definitely get a decent winter wheel/tire setup. I lowered down to 17-inchers, which makes the whole thing a bit cheaper, gives you more options, and is a lot more forgiving of all of the potholes and crap that develop in the winter. Yeah, did my due diligence while looking for wheels. I live in NJ so the roads already suck and they get exponentially worse in winter. Ordering a set of black Enkei EDR9s in 16x7 for my winter wheels, so an inch smaller and narrower and will probably slap some Blizzaks on it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 02:23
|
|
|
Okay, this is sort of a supplemental to my weird transmission noise issue from before. I've got a '99 Impreza Outback Sport with about 162k miles on it. Earlier this summer I took a 1300-mile trip across country (inculding through the mountains) while towing a 5x8 U-Haul trailer full of all my material possessions. I drove from a cold climate to a hot climate, and after a while here in the south I noticed that the car would occasionally make a weird thump noise that seemed to be coming from the transmission, and if the thump was particularly loud it would be accompanied by a chirp, as though a tire was breaking loose or a belt was slipping. It wasn't a consistent or predictable thing, but it seemed more likely to do it if the A/C was on and if I had just accelerated into an intersection but was letting off the gas to make the turn. It didn't happen all the time, and the intensity varied from "did it just do it again? I couldn't tell" to "holy crap, the transmission is going to drop out." One of my coworkers suggested that it might be the A/C compressor binding up, since I had never used the A/C before this trip and I had it charged up specifically because I was moving down south. He said that since it was filled in a colder climate, when I moved to the hot climate the compressed gas expanded and could be binding the system up. He suggested running the A/C more often and seeing if that would alleviate some of the pressure on the system. It seemed to help... for a while. Just the other day, I was in town picking up a pizza. I did not have the A/C on. I parked the car on an incline with the nose up. I left the engine running. When I got back in the car and put it in reverse to back out, I got the loudest thump and chirp that I've heard in a long time. What the heck is wrong with this thing?
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 13:16
|
|
|
infrared35 posted:Thumps.... Have you checked your mounts? It really sounds to me like the varied load you're putting on the drive train with a bad mount kind of scenario.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 14:12
|
|
|
The driveline mounts are not the best. It's probably either a transmission mount or a rear diff mount. The rear diff mount on my '97 Outback Sport is completely shot to the degree where getting off the throttle below 3000 rpm makes the car buck and the motor mounts are sagging as well so the engine pitches around when I get on the gas. Replacements should be relatively cheap - for the manual transmission you can use any mount from a 5-speed Impreza so it should be easy to find a WRX owner who has upgraded to Group-N replacements. I'm actively looking into rear diff mount replacements that don't involve paying Laile a bunch of money. edit: It looks like you have an automatic. In that case, I think you have to use either an automatic transmission mount or one designed for a 6-speed STI. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Oct 14, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 15:13
|
|
|
Shrapnac posted:After: 2011 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited Looks just like mine! It's my first real (manual) car and I have the same plan, drive it for a couple seasons and then get the Accessport. I'm 2,400 miles in and have definitely gotten better driving it, but I still feel like I have tons of room to improve. I'm looking into getting a set of winter tires now, temps around here are dipping into the 40's and I know the stock SPTs aren't made to go much colder. I'm browsing Tire Rack and they recommend going with a 16" wheel to replace the stock 17"s, but drat are the recommended wheels ugly. Guess it's time to customize.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 15:14
|
|
|
I thought the OE '02-03 16" wheels fit? They don't look bad! And don't worry about waiting for the accessport. It's a nice upgrade and you can enjoy it now as much as you will in a year. It's a big improvement but nothing that will hurt you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 15:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 13, 2024 09:45 |
|
|
KleenexCMW posted:I'm looking into getting a set of winter tires now, temps around here are dipping into the 40's and I know the stock SPTs aren't made to go much colder. I'm browsing Tire Rack and they recommend going with a 16" wheel to replace the stock 17"s, but drat are the recommended wheels ugly. Guess it's time to customize.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 18:58
|
|