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so i'm assembling my venerable dreadnought plastic kit and was curious about how to go about swapping weapons, it almost seems like I could literally paint one shoulder and swap weapons by simply not gluing them in place. The shoulder joint holds them pretty securely. Is this intended or is the ideal to just construct three separate arms and swap those? my terminators are coming along nicely...  
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Oct 13, 2011 05:15
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 11:48 |
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You could even swap weapon arms on the metal dreadnoughts GW used to sell, and you definitely can with the standard and furioso dreadnoughts. You generally don't need magnets if you're taking off the entire arm, but it might be an okay idea if the guns slot in on the ven dread kit. If they stick on their own though, more power to you. Those Terminator helmets look really nice. Like seriously good. The silver and blue color scheme doesn't do it for me, but it looks well executed.
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Oct 13, 2011 05:21
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Still not happy with it, but he looks a bit better now. Onto ebay he goes: Lookin' good.  You're going to get less than market value, though, since eBay and the economy are in the shitter.
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Oct 13, 2011 05:24
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SRM posted:You could even swap weapon arms on the metal dreadnoughts GW used to sell, and you definitely can with the standard and furioso dreadnoughts. You generally don't need magnets if you're taking off the entire arm, but it might be an okay idea if the guns slot in on the ven dread kit. If they stick on their own though, more power to you. The bodies are still really rough, just a base layer and initial wash. Still have to highlight and pick out details in gold. Probably gonna use the silver/sepia antique gold technique. I went with the Storm Wardens color scheme because one of the other guys at work competing in the painting competition designed the Storm Wardens for FFG edit: and i had no other idea about what to paint treeboy fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 05:34
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Post 9-11 User posted:Lookin' good. Eh, it depends on the mini. I sold a painted Bloodcrusher not to long ago for quite a bit more than I paid for it. That's rare tho. It's waaaaay easier with small mini's. Because if you're selling a twelve dollar guy for twenty five dollars there are a lot of gamers who will gladly pay 13 bucks to not have to paint some complicated finicky miniature. I might be a bit biased in this regard however, because I can speed paint to a high standard and never have trouble with some things people do (skin especially) so my time to money ratio is a bit higher than people who take many hours to produce above TTQ level minis. It also helps to play a lot of games and know which players are lazy butts. Demons in 40k and Fantasy are a huge one. Its an army that attracts a lot of power gamer types who are more interested in meeting painting requirements for tournaments than actually painting the minis themselves. I find this in great contrast to Space Marines, where a great deal of players get really into making their own chapters, symbols and such and even if they aren't that good at painting will want to do everything themselves (I think this is a good thing for the hobby, honestly). For this reason I find space marine conversions (unpainted Scibor like stuff) sell really well. But unless you have a personal press mold and resin casting setup you're not gonna break even on one offs. But yeah, so you can still ebay painted models for decent scratch if you can speed paint well (or have loads of free time) and have a bit of a pulse finger for what specific models people want.
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Oct 13, 2011 05:45
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treeboy posted:It's the grimdark Black Knight. "I may be wounded, but it is only a wound of the flesh. The Emperor has given me teeth, and with these mighty teeth I will gnaw you to death. So have at you. FOR THE EMPEROR!!"
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Oct 13, 2011 07:06
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Fix posted:WIP: Come at me bro
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Oct 13, 2011 07:15
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Post 9-11 User posted:Lookin' good. Yes ebay is not he best, you sometimes get lucky though and get 2 bidders on there with more money than sense. I had one Space Marine go for 4 times what I paid for it, the winning bidder had spent £750 on Warhammer and 40K in a two week period before he bought my mini and for that 750 he only had about 8 figures. Other times I have only just got a few quid over what I paid it.
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Oct 13, 2011 07:54
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Welp I'm about to put my first set of bases up for sale. Oh ebay why do you make me so nervous and/or excited?
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Oct 13, 2011 11:47
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Does anyone have a good recipe for really pale skin, going on white even? I've been looking around, but I can't seem to find any.
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Oct 13, 2011 12:03
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Buffalo squeeze posted:Does anyone have a good recipe for really pale skin, going on white even? I've been looking around, but I can't seem to find any. Look for guides on painting vampires maybe?
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Oct 13, 2011 12:52
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PaintVagrant posted:Push the contrast furthe on the blade red herring. Its mid tone to light now, but youcant get any lighte than white so you need to take the blue darker on the opposing side of the white lights on the blade middle. Something more like this? I added some Regal Blue into the mix and worked down to it.  I haven't had the time to go back to the big sword yet, but for reference here is the whole model.  I got a daylight lamp too. Lexthemonster posted:Sorry it took so long to reply - I got alot of messages asking how I did them so I put together this Heads up on the aquatic plant front, if they bend and crack all the paint flakes off. Here are mine currently;  I have no idea how to paint the jungle floor though. Any ideas? Red Herring fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 13:31
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I just finished my first Ork Slugga Boy. What do you think?   
Baron Bifford fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 13:35
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Baron Bifford posted:I just finished my first Ork Slugga Boy. What do you think? Nice start! I can even see some highlighting in there. When you paint your next one make sure you use the knife on an angle to cut off the spruelines like on the front of his gun, and the back of his sword. Also hit those metallics with some Badab Black wash or Devlan Mud. Also don't get disheartened by all the awesome painting in this thread, you don't get that good overnight.
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Oct 13, 2011 14:16
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Baron Bifford posted:I just finished my first Ork Slugga Boy. What do you think? I like it! It looks really similar to how I'm painting my boyz, with the black clothes and leather straps. As dishwasherlove mentioned you will really see a significant improvement if you take the time to clean off the mold lines and drill out the barrel. It doesn't take too much time and will dramatically improve how everything looks. Orks get a huge benefit from washes. I use Thraka Green on my ork flesh, Devlan Mud on the bases and painted areas, and a mix of Devlan Mud and Badab Black on the metal. Washes add another dimension of shading and smooth out the transitions on highlights. I love using them. Other than that you should just focus on keeping the lines clean and keep on practicing. Forcing yourself to work on painting within the lines and keeping things clean will give you huge benefits later on as you improve your brush control. Another little trick I like to use for keeping lines clean is to use acrylic inks to differentiate between the various regions.
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Oct 13, 2011 15:47
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See here a video of a man assembling a Heldenhammer from Dreadfleet. He scrapes his mold lines and cleans his sprue connections with a knife on camera. Sometimes it's easier to see. http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/dreadfleet-heldenhammer-assembly Hope this is helpful! Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 15:56
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I saw a bunch of those tools on sale in my local GW. Now I'll have to buy those too. Money, money, money. I've already spent close to $100 and I'm not even a serious hobbyist yet, I'm just dicking around.
Baron Bifford fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 18:05
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I prefer to paint the arms and torso separately before joining them. However, I noticed that the joints are less solid after I glue them together, probably because the paint layer prevents the glue from dissolving the plastic underneath. My solution is to put a bit of sticky tape over the stumps before painting, then peel them off when I'm ready to glue.
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Oct 13, 2011 18:10
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I just scratch the paint off with a knife when I do it.
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Oct 13, 2011 18:13
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Baron Bifford posted:I saw a bunch of those tools on sale in my local GW. Now I'll have to buy those too. Money, money, money. No need to buy GW tools, I do 99% of my hobby work with a simple box cutting knife that you can find for a dollar, tops. Add a no-brand pin vice and a wire cutter and you can do pinning as well. Then some cheap jewelry files from e-bay if you feel like you prefer filing to just scraping stuff off with your box cutter.
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Oct 13, 2011 18:25
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DO NOT BUY GW TOOLS!!!!! Go to a hardware store and buy whatever is cheap. Any old side cutters and a decently sharp hobby or utility knife will work fine for 100% of the things you need to do with them. GW stuff has a stupid markup on it without a corresponding increase in quality. And don't go crazy with the pin vise (small hand-drill basically) or sanding sticks or jeweler's files until you learn to work with a knife and a bottle of superglue. This hobby doesn't have to be money, money, money to get into. ps. I've used a knife like this one for decades and it's always been good to me.
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Oct 13, 2011 19:07
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Lethemonster posted:Welp I'm about to put my first set of bases up for sale. Oh ebay why do you make me so nervous and/or excited? Link! I was just about to order some blank bases but stopped myself.
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Oct 13, 2011 19:23
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Creepy Goat posted:Link! I was just about to order some blank bases but stopped myself. It is the sand/desert bases I posted earlier - I'm waitin for it to be sunny out again so I can try and get some decent pics. Made 30 of them so far, making up terminator/dreadnought size ones too.
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Oct 13, 2011 19:46
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Lethemonster posted:It is the sand/desert bases I posted earlier - I'm waitin for it to be sunny out again so I can try and get some decent pics. Made 30 of them so far, making up terminator/dreadnought size ones too. I have loads of baseless models in the mail because I'm scratch-building and forgot to buy bases  , so now is as good a time as any to buy some fancy scenic bases! Post a link when you've upped them to ebay please!
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Oct 13, 2011 20:39
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what do you guys run through your airbrushes to clean them? I have a cheap one and i just run water through it between colors, but I am upgrading soon so i want to take good care of it. What are you thinning acrylics with? I have been using the tamiya thinner but I would love to know if there is something cheaper I can use.
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Oct 14, 2011 07:06
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Red Herring posted:Something more like this? I added some Regal Blue into the mix and worked down to it. God drat I love the way you paint. Red Herring posted:Heads up on the aquatic plant front, if they bend and crack all the paint flakes off. Do the dirt in a dark brown, like wet soil, and then go to your spice cabinet for dried herbs, crush them up a bit and sprinkle those on top. Don't use flock or static grass, because jungle and forest floors are all fallen tree vegetation (sunlight doesn't really get too far past the canopy). Fix posted:WIP: Aged bone seems appropriate for Metal Gear Rayvangelion up there. Silhouette fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Oct 14, 2011 |
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Oct 14, 2011 07:24
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Creepy Goat posted:I have loads of baseless models in the mail because I'm scratch-building and forgot to buy bases If you're gonna buy from a goon, don't bother going through eBay. The fees aren't kind to either of you.
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Oct 14, 2011 10:12
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Silhouette posted:Do the dirt in a dark brown, like wet soil, and then go to your spice cabinet for dried herbs, crush them up a bit and sprinkle those on top. Don't use flock or static grass, because jungle and forest floors are all fallen tree vegetation (sunlight doesn't really get too far past the canopy). My forest bases are used black tea leaves with a sprinkle of basil on top. (Lazy example) 
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Oct 14, 2011 10:16
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Fauxtool posted:what do you guys run through your airbrushes to clean them? I have a cheap one and i just run water through it between colors, but I am upgrading soon so i want to take good care of it. I use Vallejo thinner and Vallejo cleaner.
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Oct 14, 2011 10:22
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What's the general opinion on Liquid Greentstuff? Worth getting or crappy gimmick? How do you stop it hardening in the pot? Is there a generic unbranded version yet?
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Oct 14, 2011 10:50
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I think it's pretty good, I've been using it for partial assembly of metal models and gap filling and it works really well. As for hardening in the pot, closing the lid generally does the trick.
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Oct 14, 2011 11:18
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Lungboy posted:What's the general opinion on Liquid Greentstuff? Worth getting or crappy gimmick? How do you stop it hardening in the pot? Is there a generic unbranded version yet? It's pretty great IMO, usually needs 2-3 layers after drying but for gap-filling, smoothing, blending etc it rocks and is much faster and easier than using putty.
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Oct 14, 2011 11:31
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Lungboy posted:Is there a generic unbranded version yet? Yes, but we don't know what it is.
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Oct 14, 2011 11:37
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there are plenty of gap filling putties of various consistencies out there that scale modellers use, it is probably one of them (although there are probably better). Actual greenstuff is pretty horrible for gap filling though, so pretty much anything is an improvement.
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Oct 14, 2011 13:14
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I'm doing some miniature painting and had a question; I know the Lowdown Ratz were purple and black, but can't picture the team logo. Can anyone help?
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Oct 14, 2011 13:20
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:Yes, but we don't know what it is. I think it's sold as Squadron Putty. I bought a big tube for $4 at hobbytown, but I can't compare the two until later today.
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Oct 14, 2011 13:52
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GW should really get props. They sell a product with horrible faults from the beginning, so let's make product that fixes the problem and not adress the original problem.
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Oct 14, 2011 14:34
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Have you actually bought finecast stuff, or are you just regurgitating internet opinion of the first wave of releases?
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Oct 14, 2011 14:52
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Silhouette posted:God drat I love the way you paint. Cheers mate, no one has ever said this about my painting. Some how it means alot. Thanks.  Silhouette posted:Do the dirt in a dark brown, like wet soil, and then go to your spice cabinet for dried herbs, crush them up a bit and sprinkle those on top. Don't use flock or static grass, because jungle and forest floors are all fallen tree vegetation (sunlight doesn't really get too far past the canopy). Hmm, good idea. I may try find a synthetic substitute though. I guess tea leaves would work?  ATTN: PaintVagrant.PaintVagrant posted:Push the contrast furthe on the blade Red Herring. Its mid tone to light now, but you can't get any lighter than white so you need to take the blue darker on the opposing side of the white lights on the blade middle. Took your advice, though I may have gone overboard... What do you think? What could I improve on. As always everyones C&C, no matter how harsh is always greatly appreciated.    
Red Herring fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 14, 2011 |
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Oct 14, 2011 16:44
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 11:48 |
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sassassin posted:Have you actually bought finecast stuff, or are you just regurgitating internet opinion of the first wave of releases? Im going to go with no. Reads straight like a post lifted from warseer and the only thing that makes me believe its his own opinion is he called it finecast not 'finecrap'
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Oct 14, 2011 17:11
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