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jonathan posted:MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL. TRAIL RATED. I've taken my XJ on 33s and 3.5" of lift, open diffs, up trails that an XJ on Q78s, locked front and rear, 5" of lift couldn't make it up  Undercarriage armor will go a long, long way. 
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Oct 14, 2011 05:24
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jonathan posted:MORE THAN YOU CAN AFFORD PAL. TRAIL RATED. It must be hard to talk with so much tongue in cheek.
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Oct 14, 2011 18:24
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guess what arrived today?  (15" XJ rim for scale)
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Oct 14, 2011 20:53
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kastein posted:guess what arrived today?  You just blew my mind.
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Oct 15, 2011 03:41
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Not the only thing... near about blew my back unloading them! 235lbs apiece without rims. I'm keeping one of the stock 11.00x20 (42") tires as a donut spare. Should be fine, putting 46s on this is like putting 31s on a cherokee/grand cherokee/wrangler.
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Oct 15, 2011 04:00
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kastein posted:Not the only thing... near about blew my back unloading them! 235lbs apiece without rims. Very nice, what tread pattern is that? It doesn't look like the ZXL but it kinda does...
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Oct 15, 2011 09:10
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commissargribb posted:Other than the near-impossibility to get one here, what do you guys think about those Jeeps made by Mahindra in India? I've been looking at their website and other than the independent front end suspension on the new models they seem more "Jeep-like" than most of the new stuff Chrysler makes. Stripped down, rugged, without that ugly new grille.
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Oct 15, 2011 15:42
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InitialDave posted:They're... not brilliant. The build quality is fairly appalling, and I really can't see any reason why someone would want to buy one in a country where an actual CJ is relatively easily available. Because they come with a Diesel engine maybe?
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Oct 15, 2011 16:20
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Doccers posted:Very nice, what tread pattern is that? It doesn't look like the ZXL but it kinda does... XMLs... I wanted XZLs but couldn't find them in stock anywhere. Even used, that's $975 in tires (for 6.) Only reason it took me so long to decide to go for it. New they're nearly $800 *each* so I got off easy. 20 cents on the dollar for a tire with 90+% treadlife left isn't too bad. Steiler Drep - how hard can it be to swap a diesel into a carbed vehicle with a wide open engine compartment? I've seen plenty of 4bt and 6bt swaps into wranglers happen, easier since apparently they come in some delivery trucks with a common new venture 5-speed behind them. So you can patch together the required front-end parts off the trans from the diesel and the back-end parts off a 4wd version from a dodge fullsize pickup and voila, diesel engine with a transfer case compatible MT hanging off it.
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Oct 15, 2011 17:02
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InitialDave posted:...an actual CJ is relatively easily available. You mean the licensed 2a/3a/3bs that they build there?
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Oct 15, 2011 17:55
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No, I mean if you live somewhere that you can buy a real  -built Jeep, even if it's a bit rough, I can't see any reason to buy the Indian copy.The diesel engine might appeal in theory, but it's really nothing to write home about. Honestly, an old CJ, Suzuki SJ or similar is going to be a massively better bet unless you're a total masochist.
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Oct 15, 2011 18:32
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kastein posted:XMLs... I wanted XZLs but couldn't find them in stock anywhere. There are loads of people doing this, but it's not something your everyday person would do. I'd love to get a 4BT into my YJ for sure, but for example where I'm from, parts are hard to come by and are VERY expensive, so a swap might end up costing me about $15k. Those Mahindras have lovely build quality, but just like the Samurais, they are cheap and are easily modded, and are just perfect for rural areas.
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Oct 15, 2011 18:32
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kastein posted:XMLs... I wanted XZLs but couldn't find them in stock anywhere. Yeah, XZL's in 11.00r16 are simply not anywhere except for possibly one place in the netherlands, I suspect it's the same for the 11.00r20's. I know you already bought yours but you may want this for the future: http://www.aircrafttyres.com/truck_4x4_tyres.html And good deal on the tires. I know the XZL's are, I forget the word, but you can re-cut the treads, so when it wears out you can re-cut it and get some more use out of it, I think the XML's are the same. I'm happy the XZL's that came on mine seem in good shape with plenty of tread left, I dread the day I have to try finding new ones, or spare rims for that matter - 8 bolt, 222mm pattern. good luck finding *THAT*. I really look forward to seeing your truck as it progresses.  Also, Doing a diesel conversion is a huge deal, even if you can get all the parts for a decent price. There's a shop near me that specializes in diesel conversions of 4x4's and others (Pinzgauer, Volvo C3 series, etc), Originally when I bought mine and was told the engine was blown, I was going to just save up some extra dosh and submit it to them for a swap to a land rover TDi, but the price is not a joking matter - and it's a TON of custom work. Happily my engine wasn't blown, just needed some tuning and maint work, so other than trying to re-tune it back up to the standard 140hp (swedish military de-tuned the B30A down to 110), I think I'm going to let it be. oh uh, JEEP THREAD (many more of us and we'll have to start a general 6x6 thread): I think my 99 4.0 XJ has developed a bit of a vacuum leak; on hard acceleration or up a hill, the AC system switches the vents to defrost and then seems to go beyond the range so the fan goes like mad but nothing comes out, till I level off/back off on the acceleration and then the system catches back up. Any idea the best way to hunt down a leak that can cause that? Doccers fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Oct 15, 2011 |
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Oct 15, 2011 18:45
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Doccers posted:Yeah, XZL's in 11.00r16 are simply not anywhere except for possibly one place in the netherlands, I suspect it's the same for the 11.00r20's. I actually got 395/85R20s instead of 11.00x20s. I wanted it to be a little bit bigger (yeah, I know) for a road speed increase, this should get my max speed up to about 56mph from 52mph. Thanks for the supplier link (looks like they have 395s also, in both XML and XZL!) but unfortunately they appear to be in the Netherlands... I can only imagine what shipping to the states would be. Grab a propane blowtorch, turn it on but don't ignite it. Run it along the vacuum lines slowly. When the engine speed changes a bit, you are near the leak. A few suspicious locations - near the vacuum reservoir in the right side of the front bumper, the vacuum lines going to it, and the lines where they connect to the intake manifold.
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Oct 15, 2011 19:45
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Doccers posted:I think my 99 4.0 XJ has developed a bit of a vacuum leak; on hard acceleration or up a hill, the AC system switches the vents to defrost and then seems to go beyond the range so the fan goes like mad but nothing comes out, till I level off/back off on the acceleration and then the system catches back up. Any idea the best way to hunt down a leak that can cause that? This doesn't necessarily indicate a vacuum leak. When you open your throttle up all the way, you get nearly no vacuum; this is typical of all throttled engines. The thing is that the controls for the a/c are electro-mechanical, part electric, part vacuum operated. There's a device that "stores" some vacuum, much like your brake booster, for short runs at full throttle. It only lasts for so long though, and if you're holding the pedal down for a while (it takes about 15 seconds in my 2000 TJ), the a/c or heater will turn off until you release the throttle and restore some vacuum to the system. I think this is by design, since disabling the a/c or heater reduces some of the drag on the engine. If you're experiencing this immediately when you stomp it then I would be concerned, otherwise you're all good.
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Oct 15, 2011 20:02
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Trying to start my new rebuilt 4.0 in my 99 Cherokee this afternoon. Had it all ready to go, would turn over and build oil pressure but wouldn't catch. Tried to rotating the dizzy thinking we were 180 degrees off for whatever reason... and dad leaned on the coil and broke it.  Off to the parts store to get another one. I think my no start issue is because of fueling from the Heep sitting all summer with a full tank.
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Oct 15, 2011 22:07
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I bought a 2000 Cherokee about a week ago! (I'll have to hook up with the other Maine guys here eventually for some wheeling.) Now I understand the love-hate relationship. Within two days of owning it the blower motor died, passenger window motor died, alarm stopped working, and fuel gauge is acting up. Replaced the blower motor and window motor. Now on to the other items. I'm also thinking about taking the bra off because moisture building up between the bra and jeep makes me nervous (is this anything to worry about?). If I do take the bra off is there something I can use to remove the stuck on velcro it attaches to without destroying the paint? 
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Oct 15, 2011 23:36
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freestyl posted:I bought a 2000 Cherokee about a week ago! (I'll have to hook up with the other Maine guys here eventually for some wheeling.) Congrats. Pull that bra off and use Goo Gone to get rid of the velcro. My cherokee's almost done and I'm in Auburn, and I've got a sister itching to wheel her TJ
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Oct 16, 2011 00:35
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EightBit posted:This doesn't necessarily indicate a vacuum leak. When you open your throttle up all the way, you get nearly no vacuum; this is typical of all throttled engines. The thing is that the controls for the a/c are electro-mechanical, part electric, part vacuum operated. There's a device that "stores" some vacuum, much like your brake booster, for short runs at full throttle. It only lasts for so long though, and if you're holding the pedal down for a while (it takes about 15 seconds in my 2000 TJ), the a/c or heater will turn off until you release the throttle and restore some vacuum to the system. I think this is by design, since disabling the a/c or heater reduces some of the drag on the engine. The thing is that it doesn't disable the heater, the ducting just loses focus and redirects out of range, so the blower mower pushes itself to "insanity" levels because it's building up pressure and not able to vent it anywhere. None of my other 4.0 liter XJ's have exhibted this kinda of behavior, so... somethings wrong.
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Oct 16, 2011 01:07
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Doccers posted:The thing is that it doesn't disable the heater, the ducting just loses focus and redirects out of range, so the blower mower pushes itself to "insanity" levels because it's building up pressure and not able to vent it anywhere. None of my other 4.0 liter XJ's have exhibted this kinda of behavior, so... somethings wrong. my bet is on a broken vacuum canister, the line has fallen off it (happens sometimes), or possibly a stuck check valve. The check valve is right where the vacuum line (for this section of the system) connects to the intake manifold near the back. Could also be a vacuum leak like I said before (I mean, aside from a broken or disconnected canister) but that's the most likely break on the vac system in a 91-01 XJ. The most likely break on the vac system in a 90 or earlier XJ is 'loving everywhere, buy a new vacuum harness at NAPA' 
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Oct 16, 2011 02:00
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InitialDave posted:No, I mean if you live somewhere that you can buy a real The only reason I asked is because it's difficult to find a  CJ3B made after the 1980s- and in my experience with an intact floor.freestyl posted:I bought a 2000 Cherokee about a week ago! (I'll have to hook up with the other Maine guys here eventually for some wheeling.) Welcome to the party! We should at least start planning a spring trip soon I think. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Oct 16, 2011 |
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Oct 16, 2011 03:48
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Slow is Fast posted:Congrats. Pull that bra off and use Goo Gone to get rid of the velcro. Lewiston over here
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Oct 16, 2011 04:06
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freestyl posted:Lewiston over here Hollis... A bit further away.
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Oct 16, 2011 04:10
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loving piece of poo poo wont start. Turns over, will kinda catch if you juggle the throttle, blows smoke and dies. And yes, I changed the CPS. I'm ready to light this thing on fire.
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Oct 16, 2011 19:56
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Just went and tried more poo poo. We're getting 46ish PSI at the fuel rail. Jumped the fuel pump relay and it's dumping plenty of gas that looks fine through the shrader valve on the rail. Timing gun on wire #1 shows we have spark. Everything is new on this rebuild. Only thing I can think of is the actual distributor, clogged injectors, and bad ECU or sensor. It just cranks and cranks and cranks.
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Oct 16, 2011 21:01
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Slow is Fast posted:Just went and tried more poo poo. I hate to say it, but double and triple check the firing order. The spark plug wires are usually the last bit to go back on, and doing a full rebuild is exhausting.
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Oct 16, 2011 21:13
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EightBit posted:I hate to say it, but double and triple check the firing order. The spark plug wires are usually the last bit to go back on, and doing a full rebuild is exhausting. Wires were numbered before and after rebuild. I'll check them again after dinner though. Why not right.
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Oct 16, 2011 21:25
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how's your compression? Should be 120+ PSI, after a full rebuild I'd expect up into the 150-180 range unless the rings are screwed up or haven't seated. E: it looks like I'm running 4.88 gears in my red jeep when I build it (44 front, 8.8 rear.) A $60 barely-used set of motive 4.88s for the 8.8 at the stafford swapmeet today decided this for me. kastein fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Oct 17, 2011 |
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Oct 16, 2011 23:48
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Very productive weekend. Painted the hardtop and wired it up, as the jeep didn't come with the hardtop from the factory. I don't need the wiper and defroster enough to spend $200 for the kit, but I thought it would be fun to make my own harness. Before:  After:  I am not a very good painter, but I still think it looks way better then the tan. Oh, I also got to take her offroad for the first time while the paint was drying. Next up: new tires and a budget boost.
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Oct 17, 2011 04:30
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jonathan posted:I've often wondered what would be involved in a ctis setup for a vehicle that didn't come with it originally ? I don't understand exactly how the mechanism works. What's required beyond an onboard air system ? Basically its a compressor, a manifold to help control the air and a bunch of hose and t-fittings. Most CTIS systems usually route through the center of the axel or hub on the wheel, but many commercial truck systems have the hose fed externally via a rig offset from the wheel and down to the hub. That's only practical for over the highway travel, something like that for an off road vehicle would be silly, and would be the most difficult part of the system to implement. Everything else you could put together with a trip to mcmaster.com or graingers or even lowes to an extent. The easy stuff in detail would be: Filtered air [from air cleaner] being fed to a 100% duty cycle air compressor. Air from that can be ran to a manifold which a pressure blowoff valve, an exhaust port and an port for each circuit you want to inflate and deflate [say front and rear axle]. You would run hoses from the manifold's front and rear circuits to a t fitting on each end of the vehicle then down to each wheel station. You'll need a control system of some sort, it could be a multi-circuit valve hand operated, or an electrical solenoid driven valve [expensive]. You'd need a valve/control for inflate/deflate, which switches between the compressor and the exhaust port and another valve for each axle, between those valves you can control inflation and deflation of each air circuit. In the event the compressor is running with everything closed off, it'll blow through the overpressure valve on the manifold as a safety. Now the wheels are a tricky bit. Most new military vehicles are full IS, usually with portal axles so you can engineer the spindle to have a air channel routed through the hub. That's how you get CTIS on something like a Hummer, or Unimog or a C303 or something similar. Meritor makes CTIS systems for semi truck trailers which have a hose system on the tandem axles, it feeds into the air brake supply tank, then runs a hose to the solid axle assembly where a hole is drilled into the shaft, with another hole out in the hub. A special fitting is applied which runs a small needle connection through the hub oil fill plug to a t fitting to the tires. A system like this would require a sealed axle that can also act as an air tank. That being said, it's a lot of work to retrofit something to work, and on something like a full independent suspension military truck with portal axles would be easier to implement vs a solid axle vehicle where you have things like hub disconnects to deal with. It's neat to have, but it's a huge maintenance item, you need quick disconnect fittings for each tire [around $50 per wheel] in case the system fails and in any given system you would have 50+ points for possible air leaks. So in the end it may be better to take a tank of air and an ARB core removal deflation tool.
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Oct 17, 2011 14:58
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I've had my Jeep for a year and a half and I finally found a tiny amount of mud to play in. I visited a natural hot spring in Santa Barbara, CA last weekend and there was a 10ish mile long dirt/rock road that you had to take to get there. I had a blast and finally found a little mud puddle to play in along the way. I like seeing the XJ this way. (Mud is surprisingly difficult to Makes me sad thinking of selling it. 
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Oct 17, 2011 23:05
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Worked on my stupid (99) XJ more tonight. Since it doesn't do anything even spraying starter fluid into the throttle body.... Wires were in the correct firing order. Checked spark with a timing gun. It's firing WAY off, which makes no sense to me since the timing should be set pretty tight mechanically since everything is keyed. Everything is keyed so the only timing adjustment is done by the ECU Interesting thing... My bluetooth can't find the ECU on keyon. It's a POS chinese bluetooth one I use with my phone, figured it was unpowered. Brought out my dads ECU link that connects into a laptop. Link wont light up and software can't find the ECU. Could the ECU be dead and screwing up my ignition? I'm still not sure if it's CPS, cam sensor, or ECU. Coil should be fine as it's brand new, wires, cap, rotor only a few months old. Anything else to check? Grounds look fine. Knock sensor? Map sensor? Distributor in the wrong way? Push it into the yard and light it on fire? Borrow a real OBD2 reader and try and talk to the computer.
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Oct 18, 2011 00:09
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Slow is Fast posted:Worked on my stupid (99) XJ more tonight. If it's a sensor it would probably be throwing a CEL. At least when I accidentally unplugged the CPS on my GTO it immediately threw a CEL (yet somehow started and ran fine for a few minutes) and logged a code which I could read with a scan tool. I wouldn't light it on fire just yet--it sounds like you're getting close to the culprit if the sparks are firing way off. Any chance you can get a junkyard ECU to try it? I wonder if the factory manual has any advice on troubleshooting ECU too.
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Oct 18, 2011 01:28
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I Moved my fuel can mount to inside the tailgate. Should work better now.
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Oct 18, 2011 01:42
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Slow is Fast posted:Worked on my stupid (99) XJ more tonight. sounds like CPS since the OBD port isn't responding. Hate to ask but did you check to make sure you indexed the cam and crank sprockets properly for the timing chain when you assembled it? You don't have a knock sensor on a 99, those were 87-90 only (and possibly earlier.)
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Oct 18, 2011 04:02
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Slow is Fast posted:loving piece of poo poo wont start. If you hold the throttle open will it stay running? If yes, it could simply be a low voltage issue from a worn battery. That's all that is coming to mind at the moment.
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Oct 18, 2011 06:16
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kastein posted:sounds like CPS since the OBD port isn't responding. Hate to ask but did you check to make sure you indexed the cam and crank sprockets properly for the timing chain when you assembled it? Yeah, the alignment marks were dead nuts on. I double checked and my father checked once. ornery owl posted:If you hold the throttle open will it stay running? If yes, it could simply be a low voltage issue from a worn battery. That's all that is coming to mind at the moment. Half throttle it will kind of catch. Full throttle no. When it catches you have to keep juggling the throttle but it sounds like poo poo and dies.
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Oct 18, 2011 11:30
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I need a bigger welder... my little tiny 110v lincoln electric fluxcore is extremely peeved at me right now. It didn't really like welding a 1" thick plate D-ring tab onto a 1/4" plate bumper bracket. Not even a little bit.
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Oct 19, 2011 06:30
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Anyone have experience with snow chains? I was thinking about getting a set of chains for my 01 XJ. I have a 2" lift and 31's on it.
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Oct 19, 2011 18:14
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Roneth posted:Anyone have experience with snow chains? Same size tires and lift here--call a big tire shop and they should have chains that fit. I picked up a set last year around this time at Les Schwab. I've never actually mounted mine since the all terrain tires I have do pretty well in the snow.
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Oct 19, 2011 19:16
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