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Installed the cheapest nastiest pair of tyres I could find on the back They haven't tried to kill me yet, so that's something
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 05:39 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 02:39 |
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It still can draw power, but they also make OBD2 extension cables if you want to mount it inside your glovebox or console compartment or whatever.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 06:07 |
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Geirskogul posted:Ouch, we all lose the Chinese knockoff lottery every now and again. I also never buy something that I can also find on Dealextreme without either getting two spares (just in case), or understanding that it may not work. Bad luck, man. The price was within a couple of bucks of Dealextreme, but I have Amazon Prime (2 day shipping on most stuff), and Amazon also makes returns really loving easy on stuff listed as "fulfilled by Amazon". Free shipping on returns if the item is defective as well; the third party seller never gets involved in returns or even shipping, only customer service. I've bought a lot of stuff from Dealextreme, only been burned a couple of times, but it takes forever to get anything unless it's stocked at their US warehouse. Crustashio posted:Can you leave the bluetooth dongle plugged in all the time? This software looks great but if I have to climb into the footwell every time I'd just stick with my OBD reader. I left it plugged in overnight and was greeted to a battery that didn't quite have enough oomph to turn the starter, just a click - but enough for the ECU and fuel pump; I park on a steep driveway and have a M/T, so I just rolled down the driveway and popped the clutch. Also, there was a distinct hot plastic/electronics smell inside the car, the dongle was rather hot to the touch, and my phone couldn't see it at all. Unplugging it and plugging it back in got it working as good as it ever did though (which is to say, on its own terms). Admittedly, my battery has seen better days, but it's obvious the dongle I got wasn't designed to stay plugged in 24/7. I don't remember if the power light stayed on or not, I already shipped it back. And admittedly, my battery is marginal anyway; it cranks pretty slow after sitting overnight and Autozone's tester claims it's not putting out poo poo for amps (850 CCA, put out about 300 amps when tested). The PLX Kiwi I'm going to get instead comes with a 6 foot cable and a power switch; if the switch is part of the cord I'll probably wire a relay into it so it shuts off on its own.
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# ? Oct 11, 2011 07:18 |
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Did my first autocross. Was a loving blast, even though I killed multiple cones.
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 03:19 |
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Got new wheels for it (Volvo 240). Not sure what model BBS these are, but they're 16X7.5, 5X108, ET20, originally sold for a Thunderbird. I'd take some pics of them on the car, but the tires (225/60 R16) are too big to clear the spring seat. Going off the date code, these are from 2006, but they don't look near that old-either they didn't spend much time on a car, or were cleaned obsessively. I'll probably get the Eagles taken off, put them on CL, and use that money to buy something that fits better.
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 04:06 |
JointHorse posted:Changed the LHM on my Citroen Xantia. The old LHM looked like used motor oil. It's supposed to be bright green. Quoting myself because I had the MOT 3 weeks ago, and aside from a bunch of "you might want to keep an eye on this" remarks, I got two problem spots that needs fixing before I can take the MOT again: rear disc brake and bottom ball joint. And quick google search will soon tell you that the most feared DIY repair job on Xantia is replacing the ball joint. Why? Because you need a special tool to change it, so you're usually left with either A> buying that special tool for 99€ (if you can find it) or B> paying the local citroen dealership to do it for you (in my case it's 85€/hour + parts ) Luckily the combination of "friend + raw power + power tools used inappropriately" can substitute for that, so that's what I did. Swapping the rear disc brake was supposed to be an easy job, but of course there was a few surprises on the way that slowed things down. Like a long 6mm bolt that held the brake pads in place being rusted shut; and instead of using a small screw to secure the disc brake in place, it was secured using a rivet of some kind. And I was pleasantly surprised when I bled the brakes, because bright green LHM came out. I was pretty sure that the fluid in the brake lines would be (uhm what's the word..) stagnant(?), but somehow it gets circulated. Well good, now I have an excuse to push the LHM swapping till next spring, because it's getting loving cold in Finland.
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 20:55 |
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Didn't do any car work, but I tidied up my garage and cleaned out the floor drain. Including most of a 5 gallon bucket full of oily sand and gravel. In fairness the floor drain is pretty big (2' wide by 3' deep) but I get the feeling the previous owner of my house changed his oil by pulling the car into the garage,stopping over the drain and removing the drain plug
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# ? Oct 13, 2011 21:03 |
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Removed fuel door, heat shields, unbolted the exhaust from the catback, undid swaybar links, removed rear locating braces, unbolted shocks from axle,dropped it as low as I could, removed passenger side spring so I could finally undo the two straps and drop the tank. A great tank location for rear traction but its a job to remove. I think I now understand why people just cut holes in the trunk to replace the fuel pump.
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 02:02 |
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third gen f body?
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 10:30 |
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98-99 Altimas have a poo poo sunvisor design - specifically, the pivot snaps. My car was no exception when I bought it, been driving sans visors for over a year. Picked up a set from an 01 on eBay thinking they were the same. Turns out they redesigned the pivot (it's metal now instead of plastic, shouldn't break nearly as easy) and it's just a hair longer, but still uses the same mount location and screws. Apparently the 00-01 plastic clips hang down a little further too, but those won't attach to my 99's ceiling without drilling. The 98-99 clips work, it's just a little difficult to snap the 00-01 visors in and out of them. Also, since they're a little longer, they rub the headliner where the maplights would be (if my car had them). I'm just happy to have visors that don't fall off though. Got the set for $50 shipped, usually they go for at least $50-75/each. New ones have lights, old ones didn't; eventually I may figure out how to wire them up. Now I just need to find some screws so I can put the passenger side up.
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 19:26 |
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BROKE THIS loving GOD drat COOLANT PIPE STEM THAT CONNECTS A SMALL COOLANT HOSE TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD Any ideas on how to fix it aside from replacing the entire coolant pipe?
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 19:35 |
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If you know someone who welds, that may help. You may also be able to find a brass fitting you could fit in there with only a little cleanup, though that would decrease the ID of the pipe a bit, or you could attack it with a dremel or drill to enlarge the hole, THEN thread a fitting in. Since I don't weld or know anyone who does, I personally would fix it with the second idea.
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 19:45 |
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Unfortunately the pipe is plastic. I'm going to explore tapping options. e: that doesnt make sense... just the way it snapped made me assume that stem is plastic... going to go look harder. e2: yeah the entire pipe is definitely plastic RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Oct 14, 2011 |
# ? Oct 14, 2011 20:28 |
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No, the pipe being plastic makes it even easier to fix, because it's both easier to tap, and you know it doesn't have as so much pressure inside that it requires a metal or reinforced rubber pipe. This is a Good Thing (tm). Cut/sand it down level, tap it with a threaded brass barb of the appropriate size, and just for good measure smear some JB weld on the flange/last few threads of the brass barb when you do your final assembly (after a dry test fit, of course).
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 21:29 |
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Got rear driveshaft fitted, now it moves under its own steam again, after a couple of months up on axle stands. Gave her a wash to celebrate!
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# ? Oct 14, 2011 21:54 |
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My clutch has been lovely for over a year, so I finally broke down and did a pretty thorough flush of the hydraulic system. 1st bottle: Oh. No wonder it didn't work well, it was filled with used motor oil. 2nd bottle: Jesus christ, really? Still this dark? 3rd bottle: That is not Dr Pepper. That is the old fluid. So that's done, and the clutch action is actually consistent now and may not require the brute strength of a million men to shift into second gear in the mornings anymore. I guess I'll see tomorrow, when I go over to Skyline Drive. Bonus picture: Guess what maintenance item I'm doing next!
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 03:14 |
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nurrwick posted:Bonus picture: Guess what maintenance item I'm doing next! Brake Master/Booster or just the brake fluid? I replaced the 170k mile brake master on my E30 today and my brake pedal is loving ridiculous now . I can just barely touch the brakes and it grabs like I ran into a wall. This is going to take some getting used to. It also grabs at the top of the stroke as opposed to me panicking when it doesn't grab until halfway to the floor.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 03:35 |
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Just the fluid, I hope. The clutch cleaned out nicely, so I hope that whatever that horrible blackness is, it's suspended in the fluid. My girlfriend and I both drive B15 Sentras, hers a 2000 GXE, mine a 2005 SE-R Spec V. Her car's PO absolutely destroyed the brakes on her car and, when she had all of the parts replaced, we both kept trying to give ourselves whiplash with the newfound stopping power. It was almost embarrassing, especially considering her car then had better braking behavior than mine. My car stops well, it just... there's travel. Too much of it. I guess it makes nuanced braking easier, but I have no idea if it can muster enough force to trigger ABS - I tend to try to avoid driving such that I might need that, but you never know. I can only imagine the brakes on my car will be absolutely magnificent within the first three tenths of a percent of pedal travel once I swap out the Darkness.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 03:46 |
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nurrwick posted:Just the fluid, I hope. The clutch cleaned out nicely, so I hope that whatever that horrible blackness is, it's suspended in the fluid. If you put weight on the pedal with the car off (sans vacuum boost) does it keep sinking to the floor? That is the sign of worn out seals/cups in the master, which requires a rebuild kit or a new master. I bled my brakes with new fluid and still had the travel issue, and had no leaks at my calipers or anywhere else, so I knew it had to be the master. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Oct 15, 2011 |
# ? Oct 15, 2011 04:49 |
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Huh, I'll have to give that a check next time I'm out. When I was still the owner of two ACVWs, I always shied away from doing my own brake work because of what I assumed to be the hideous complexity of correctly installing drum brake components and dealing with a system that keeps the occupants of the vehicle from dying. As such, dealing with hydraulic systems is kind of new territory to me, so I still have things to look for.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 05:26 |
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I changed the Air/Fuel ratio map to be closer to 12:1 instead of the very lean 14.1 it has been running. The car is already showing improvement but I wont be able to get it tuned correctly for a little while longer. I also topped up my radiator. Its coolant is disappearing and I'm starting to think it's some sort of conspiracy. Edit: you are correct lean not rich. kids: don't do drugs and tune. tobu fucked around with this message at 11:44 on Oct 15, 2011 |
# ? Oct 15, 2011 11:33 |
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Uh...12:1 is richer than 14:1 - I am confus
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 11:40 |
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Washed and Waxed it again
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 18:29 |
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Beach Bum posted:I replaced the 170k mile brake master on my E30 today and my brake pedal is loving ridiculous now . I can just barely touch the brakes and it grabs like I ran into a wall. This is going to take some getting used to. It also grabs at the top of the stroke as opposed to me panicking when it doesn't grab until halfway to the floor. Several years ago on my Integra I replaced the master, plus I swapped all the brake lines to Goodrich braided lines, and replaced the rotors and pads on all 4 (original fronts had stress cracks, original rears were grooved). I reused the calipers, but they seemed to be in good shape. If you sneezed in the general direction of the brake pedal it would lock up the tires. Surprised I didn't get rear-ended in following days, it took a lot of getting used to and it was always hilarious watching someone else try to drive it.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 18:54 |
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Signed up for my first track day, at NJMP. I am so pumped.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 19:01 |
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I on the other hand won big on the Chinese lottery. http://www.dealextreme.com/p/obdii-bluetooth-car-diagnostic-cable-black-blue-orange-dc-12v-42825 bought that and the Torque app and I've had no problems.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 19:57 |
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Don't put ducttape on your car. Goo-gone automotive makes removal of the residue possible, rather than utterly impossible, but it's not easy. Repeated soakings in goo-gone followed by scraping with a knife gets about 99% of the crud off.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 20:02 |
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:Doing this paintjob: And now I'm done. Pretty much.
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# ? Oct 15, 2011 22:34 |
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rear end in a top hat Bicycle posted:And now I'm done. Pretty much. That is beautiful, great work.
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# ? Oct 16, 2011 01:05 |
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/\/\/\ Awesome truck. Tried to change the fuel filter and do the plugs on the A4. Took forever to finally get the 12 point bit into the bolt as I had to cut the bit down to fit in the tiny space Audi left by the filter. Whatever, at least now I have a tool to do it with. then the captive nut on the band holding the filter started turning, so I can't get the strap off to change it. FFFFFF Edit - After reading up a bit this happens a lot... solution being to cut the strap and either let it hang where it is or zip tie it in. Timmy Cruise fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Oct 16, 2011 |
# ? Oct 16, 2011 02:52 |
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SlimManFat posted:I on the other hand won big on the Chinese lottery. That's the exact same one I received, actually. Torque will bitch sooner or later about getting garbage data from it.
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# ? Oct 16, 2011 06:55 |
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some texas redneck posted:That's the exact same one I received, actually. Torque will bitch sooner or later about getting garbage data from it. But as long as it continues to work great with Torque's features,
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# ? Oct 16, 2011 07:39 |
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If you only want it as a code scanner, it works great. It's sluggish with Torque in dashboard mode though.
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# ? Oct 16, 2011 07:49 |
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Timmy Cruise posted:/\/\/\ Finished the filter change - the old one was built in 2000, and I couldn't blow through it. Car feels better now and the hesitation/stumble feel on throttle tip in is gone. Also put in BKR7E plugs (one heat range colder).
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# ? Oct 16, 2011 23:47 |
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some texas redneck posted:It's sluggish with Torque in dashboard mode though. It's probably locked at 9600 baud. You should be able to do a simple mod to get it to 38400, but considering I don't know their serial hack to bluetooth interface, I don't really want to claim that it's possible. E: Detail and Rain-X day for inside of every 'driving during the fall/winter' cars. Not a fan of the new weatherproof cover on C900, but, it'll do for now, and it's still brilliant to drive - wish I had room to keep it. Cleaned up my 'buy if a good deal' shelf of crap and have discovered that I have roughly 36oz of goof-off; I don't think that I need any more for awhile. Viggen fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Oct 17, 2011 |
# ? Oct 16, 2011 23:58 |
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I popped in some smoked corner markers on my GTI. Looks great, the shade of gray is so close that they look color matched.
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# ? Oct 17, 2011 01:46 |
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I'm getting my XT ready for another 20k miles with a new front CV axle, rebuilt front brake calipers, 4 new brake hoses, front engine reseal and new timing belts/idlers/tensioners. About two months ago I replaced the pads, rotors and brake fluid but found the front calipers were sticky, oil had leaked onto the timing belt and parked the car as a result. I removed the (torn boot) CV axle today and went to install my replacement, only to find it didn't fit the transmission. I didn't know the non-turbo EA82 axles have 23 splines and the TURBO axles have 25, myself being another victim to the imperfect RockAuto catalog. The axle is too heavy to economically return but at least I have another fridge magnet and spare axle for when I buy a Subaru BRAT. I saw a mint stock CRX on the road and a pussy magnet yellow ITR (sitting in a mechanic's lot and somehow not immediately being stolen) so I guess that evens the day out.
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# ? Oct 17, 2011 02:52 |
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Hauled a massive Ariens snowblower home in my lowered Audi wagon while a dude with a Tahoe couldn't make the exact same model fit in his SUV and had to rent the Home Depot truck to take it home.
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# ? Oct 17, 2011 04:43 |
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Powded coated brake calipers! I didn't do them myself of course, but paying for them counts, right? Also needed new tires for the front wheels.
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# ? Oct 17, 2011 06:30 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 02:39 |
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opengl128 posted:Signed up for my first track day, at NJMP. I am so pumped. Which track and with which group?
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# ? Oct 18, 2011 03:17 |