|
Blaise posted:
First off: beautiful car - I love these in black. The accessport is by far the biggest improvement in power you'll get without sinking a ton of money. It's fantastic, and incredibly easy to hide if you have a modification-unfriendly dealership - just flash back to the stock map when you take it in for warranty work. Of course, once you know what sort of power you can get from just a map, next thing you know you'll be getting a downpipe, a tune...just try to restrain yourself. However, you'll definitely want to restrict yourself to an AP/tune until you've figured out whether or not you've been cursed with a car that will have a ringland failure or some other catastrophic engine failure - wait until you hit the warranty cutoff, and do plenty of enthusiastic driving in the interim. As for tires, where do you live? Do you really get that much snow? I live in central IL, and we get quite a bit of snow and ice every winter. In my experience, as long as you don't drive like an idiot and understand your car's limitations (in particular stopping - getting going with subaru's AWD is rarely a problem), a few inches of snow on the ground is nothing that your car will have any issue with given some nice all-weathers - unless for some reason you have to drive at freeway speeds with inches of snow on the highway or 5+ inches on a regular basis. I recommend the continental DWS extremes - great in the dry, and almost disappointingly difficult to slide around in modest snow. The car was even able to drive through a foot+ of snow when we had a major snowstorm here without any big issues, and the tires will still put down 300+ whp without a loss of traction other than at peak power.
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2011 21:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 00:48 |
|
|
I put the car on another incline and replicated the thump/chirp. Is there a relatively easy way for me to check the mounts in question?
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 02:16
|
|
|
I'm terrible at making sense of black and white diagrams when it comes to undercarriages. Am I correct that this (circled in picture) is a safe jacking point for the front of my Outback Sport? The diagram seems to say yes, but my brain says no... And yes, one of my pinchwelds previosly suffered a tragedy.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 15:15
|
|
|
PabloBOOM posted:I'm terrible at making sense of black and white diagrams when it comes to undercarriages. Am I correct that this (circled in picture) is a safe jacking point for the front of my Outback Sport? The diagram seems to say yes, but my brain says no... And yes, one of my pinchwelds previosly suffered a tragedy.  I use the thing circled in green.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 16:07
|
|
|
The thing circled in red looks like the transmission crossmember which is probably not the most secure thing to jack by. The thing circled in green appears to be the jacking plate for the front subframe which is what you want to lift it by.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 18:10
|
|
|
Jack using jacking plate and not part of the transmission... Sounds like solid logic to me! If only I'd known what those things had been called to begin with  Thanks both of you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 18:59
|
|
|
PabloBOOM posted:Jack using jacking plate and not part of the transmission... Sounds like solid logic to me! If only I'd known what those things had been called to begin with You can jack the rear by the rear diff though.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 19:06
|
|
|
The roadside mount for my front swaybar broke on my 2003 WRX. The swaybar is a whiteline. The other mount and both endlinks look ok for now. Here's a quick video of the problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll2mdWzsuAk It would be easy enough to take care of if I could just find where to order the part. Everyone under the sun carries all sorts of rear swaybar mounts but no one seems to have front ones, not even big autopart online stores with piles and piles of OEM crap. Anyone know a good place to get this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2011 20:29
|
|
|
the front swaybar mount is a part of the crossmember/engine cradle. So I'd try to fix or re-tap those holes somehow. very odd thing to break. I've spent plenty of time with a race car that didn't break anything using a 27mm front bar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2011 04:13
|
|
|
Does anyone know if there is anywhere besides subimods to get a harness to hook up my hellas? They are for an 06 Outback XT.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2011 23:37
|
|
|
jamal posted:the front swaybar mount is a part of the crossmember/engine cradle. So I'd try to fix or re-tap those holes somehow. I think the missing screw went missing prior to it breaking and caused the other side to weaken rather than vice versa...? It's the only way I can figure it would have broken. I can't find anyone else mentioning this happening outside of a car wreck.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 02:02
|
|
|
What is the consensus on oil catch-cans? On the surface it looks like a great idea if they are effective at keeping oil out of the intake/intercooler. Are they worth the $100+ and headache of installing them?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 07:59
|
|
|
Danger Doug posted:What is the consensus on oil catch-cans? On the surface it looks like a great idea if they are effective at keeping oil out of the intake/intercooler. Are they worth the $100+ and headache of installing them? I hate to say it but the $400 crawford air oil separator or something like it is worth it (and Crawford and I do not get along). A standard catch can is actually kind of pointless because only part of the pcv goes through it. Following the standard way to hook them up, the actual pcv valve still dumps straight into the turbo inlet. With a good AOS you're removing the pcv entirely but you have to have a well baffled can and large diameter tubing. The original system on our time attack car was unbaffled and sucked a shitload of oil into the intake, but once I diverted the outlet into a small water bottle very little oil came out of it and we picked up 40whp. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Oct 17, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 09:18
|
|
|
Also watch out if you drive in incredibly cold temperatures (-30'C or worse) with a catch can - the condensation in the system can freeze lines solid and cause PCV
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 16:31
|
|
|
If anyone finds a good, inexpensive dual catch can system, post it in here. Even the "cheaper" Grimmspeed AOS is $300, hard to justify on a daily driver.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 19:47
|
|
|
Does anyone have the official Subaru line on how you're supposed to remove the tail-light assembly from a 93-01 wagon? My passenger side one is leaking and I'm thinking the caulking is worn out/broken behind the light. I figured I'd look at service manuals to see how it's supposed to be done before I start pulling up carpet and reaching my hands into miscellaneous holes, but I can't see anything in the ones I have that explains it. The Chilton's just explains how to replace the bulb. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Oct 17, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2011 19:50
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice! Glad to hear the regular catch cans are essentially useless. A $400 AOS may have to get added to "The List." Also newbie question: How does the AOR increase HP? Is it simply by allowing the intercooler to work more effectively by not having oil in it? Danger Doug fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 00:15
|
|
|
well, you can also make your own AOS for quite a bit less; it's really just a can with some baffling. $400 is a lot for what crawford sends you but it does work and is very simple to install. If you want to make your own, it needs to have a drain on the bottom that connects to the top crank vent, an inlet for the two pcv lines off the valve covers, and then a vent on the top which can either go back into the inlet or into a second bottle or straight onto the ground if you're feeling environmentally unfriendly. Then you stick a plug in the manifold where the pcv used to go, and block off the extra port(s) on the inlet. You also need to make sure the tubing stays as wide as the vents. The PCV system burns off the oily air from the crankcase, which lowers the octane rating of the car. More boost and more power will cause higher crank case pressure and more oil consumption. The system can also suck tons of oil out of the valve covers under extended high G cornering, which is really bad. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 01:59
|
|
|
Jamal, answer my pm. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 03:10
|
|
|
oh, sorry. I miss them sometimes because I don't get any sort of notification. There's probably a way to change that. Anyhow, that car is awesome. well, coilovers would have to go and an EWG gets annoying real fast. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 03:53
|
|
|
^^^ "Send you an email when you receive a Private Message?" in Edit Options from the user CP. EWGs can also get you kicked off some tracks/venues from what I've seen of the few guys who have them. With an externally vented setup they are insanely loud.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 04:47
|
|
|
Bojanglesworth posted:Does anyone know if there is anywhere besides subimods to get a harness to hook up my hellas? They are for an 06 Outback XT. Not to sound snarky, but why not make one yourself? If you've got the parts (wire, connectors, etc), it really only takes a half hour to install them The hardest part for me was mounting the horns, as silly as that may sound
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 05:48
|
|
|
jamal posted:an EWG gets annoying real fast. Any suggestions for dealing with this? I was considering getting a custom (unrestricted, straight-through) muffler made by the local muffler shop that I can just v-band onto the EWG, to avoid having to get a retune or add any back pressure to the system. If there are any decent ones you can get online though (I know some Porsche models used external wastegates for a while, so I assume there's a market for it still, albeit small), I'd love to know.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 10:56
|
|
|
infrared35 posted:I put the car on another incline and replicated the thump/chirp. Is there a relatively easy way for me to check the mounts in question? Narrowing this down to engine/transmission mounts dredged something up from my memory - I had the car in the shop right before my trip to do a bunch of stuff - brakes, timing belt, tune-up, A/C, and install a trailer hitch. When I got the car back from the shop, the shifter was harder to move than it was before, but it slowly got better as I drove the car. Supporting evidence for a transmission mount?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 16:54
|
|
|
infrared35 posted:Narrowing this down to engine/transmission mounts dredged something up from my memory - I had the car in the shop right before my trip to do a bunch of stuff - brakes, timing belt, tune-up, A/C, and install a trailer hitch. When I got the car back from the shop, the shifter was harder to move than it was before, but it slowly got better as I drove the car. Supporting evidence for a transmission mount? e: D'oh. Disregard what I said. Again, you have an automatic. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 17:35
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I find that if you overtorque the bolts on the transmission crossmember, this can happen. I don't think that's the problem in this case; I can't see anyone unbolting that for doing what you mentioned. Yeah, the 4EAT. Sorry. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 18:49
|
|
|
BobTheFerret posted:Any suggestions for dealing with this? I was considering getting a custom (unrestricted, straight-through) muffler made by the local muffler shop that I can just v-band onto the EWG, to avoid having to get a retune or add any back pressure to the system. If there are any decent ones you can get online though (I know some Porsche models used external wastegates for a while, so I assume there's a market for it still, albeit small), I'd love to know. have a shop weld a return back into the downpipe.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 18:49
|
|
|
So I recently picked up another 04 FXT and have noticed a few quirks. First, cruise control randomly disengages itself. Second, I was on slight decline approaching a light when it turned yellow. I pressed the brakes decently, but not very hard at all. Definitely not hard enough to engage the ABS. But, SURPRISE! The ABS engaged for no reason, and I had over a second of NO BRAKES while the ABS freaked out, causing me to come to a stop about 25 feet further than I really should have. If there was a car in front of me I absolutely would have rear ended them. On my first FXT I remember this happening slightly, but never anything near this level. Does anybody know what's going on here?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 20:07
|
|
|
FecalFajita posted:So I recently picked up another 04 FXT and have noticed a few quirks. Bad ABS Sensor?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 20:26
|
|
|
It could also be a bent ABS tone ring, they're really easy to gently caress up when you take the hub off (on the STIs at least).
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 20:39
|
|
|
Is there any way to figure out which sensor is going bad?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 21:47
|
|
|
jamal posted:have a shop weld a return back into the downpipe.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:01
|
|
|
 big pic What do you guys think, totaled? It's an '03 with ~127k miles on it. We only got it in March :\. Pro-tip: don't swerve much to avoid deer. The big indentation above the rear passenger wheel is from a guard rail. There were no significant human injuries and I imagine the deer's fine too. There was no damage to the engine bay and the car runs just fine, so there's that at least. Anyone know if it's worth it to part out the car? dyne fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:22
|
|
|
I'm surprised that Grimmspeed or somebody hasn't released a downpipe that mates to an EWG without major welding.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:22
|
|
|
dyne posted:
Without a doubt. Moving the b pillar like that would likely total a brand new car fresh off the lot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:32
|
|
|
FecalFajita posted:So I recently picked up another 04 FXT and have noticed a few quirks. You didnt happen to get my old XT did you? That's exactly what it used to do. A reflash of the ECU to a later firmware should help.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:34
|
|
|
dyne posted:Anyone know if it's worth it to part out the car? 01-02 driver seats are also relatively valued as a better-bolstered OEMish swap into many Subarus, but I don't know about '03. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Oct 18, 2011 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2011 22:36
|
|
|
tronik posted:Would I be shooting myself a foot if I went for a 2011 STi rather than waiting for the 2012's to arrive on the lot? The dealers around here are pricing remaining 2011's way below invoice. Following up to this, I was very very close this past weekend to buying a 2011 WRX Limited priced about $100 about dealer cost. Decided to reach out to another Subaru dealership here in Denver (Shortline) about whether they were accepting orders for 2012 WRX's, sure enough they were! I ended up placing an order for a new 2012 for only $200 more OTD than the original dealership was pricing their 2011. Even got them to throw in a short shifter and a bunch of other stuff. Expected delivery date is December, cant wait!
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2011 02:04
|
|
|
Tongsy posted:Not to sound snarky, but why not make one yourself? If you've got the parts (wire, connectors, etc), it really only takes a half hour to install them The hardest part for me was mounting the horns, as silly as that may sound I guess I could. I have wired up stereos and amps in the past, will that give me enough knowledge to make it myself? Where can I find a diagram?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2011 02:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 00:48 |
|
|
dyne posted:
Pro-tip: Never swerve to avoid deer ever. Lots of people die because they are too worried about their car or the deer. Trees and other vehicles (and guardrails) have much less give and often result in fatalities. Just cream the deer, deal with the mostly cosmetic front end damage, and live another day.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2011 02:31
|
|