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Man, I've always wanted an all Infantry FoW army. And people tell me that I should play Americans. But gently caress those people. I'm gonna buy a couple thousand points of Black Death Russkies.
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Oct 9, 2011 10:09
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Man, I've always wanted an all Infantry FoW army. And people tell me that I should play Americans. I love your style.
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Oct 9, 2011 11:43
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big_g posted:I love your style. Its the snappy caps. And the masses of SMG's, Flamethrowers, and that sexy sexy close range bombardment rule.
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Oct 9, 2011 12:54
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I played an all-infantry Soviet army, I didn't really enjoy it, but I think that's because it was early on and I didn't realize how hard infantry are to kill without other infantry. We were probably playing wrong. I should break it out again for the next game and see how it goes.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:18
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MARPAT is a loving nightmare to paint.
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Oct 9, 2011 14:20
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Colonial Air Force posted:I played an all-infantry Soviet army, I didn't really enjoy it, but I think that's because it was early on and I didn't realize how hard infantry are to kill without other infantry. We were probably playing wrong. The Black Death are pretty different from normal Russian infantry lists. They're fearless trained first of all. Second they're better set up to do the all infantry game since they dont rely as much on having huge packs of tanks. SMGs, Flamethrowers and mortars tend to make short work of enemy infantry, and they have access to a large selection of artillery and AT guns at good prices. http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/Documents/Briefings/Morskaya-Pekhota-Batalon.pdf
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Oct 9, 2011 14:24
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For 15mm you should just paint everything MARPAT a dull green or dull tan. Painting tiny detail on small figures, especially those meant solely for play, is a waste of time. Lots of people who ignore this end up never playing their games because they never finish painting.
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Oct 9, 2011 14:25
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The Black Death are pretty different from normal Russian infantry lists. They're fearless trained first of all. Second they're better set up to do the all infantry game since they dont rely as much on having huge packs of tanks. SMGs, Flamethrowers and mortars tend to make short work of enemy infantry, and they have access to a large selection of artillery and AT guns at good prices. Oh dear, my friends are going to hate you.
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Oct 9, 2011 14:39
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Scratch Monkey posted:For 15mm you should just paint everything MARPAT a dull green or dull tan. Painting tiny detail on small figures, especially those meant solely for play, is a waste of time. Lots of people who ignore this end up never playing their games because they never finish painting. These are some 28mm Empress units. I base coated them VMJ English Uniform. Now I'm going over it with Deneb Stone so that only a bit of the EU will still be visible. Then I'll put some Green Grey over the Deneb Stone and a bit more English Uniform over the DS. Its just very time-consuming as opposed to difficult. Edit: This MARPAT isn't coming out as well as I'd hoped. Is there a simpler scheme I could be painting my modern forces? Oxford Comma fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Oct 9, 2011 |
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Oct 9, 2011 15:21
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lilljonas posted:The answer to this is always Early Libyans. 11 bases of psiloi and a light horse general. Yeah, I thought of putting that together as a comedy army, as I probably has most of what I'd need for it in my bitz box. Plus it'd take like an hour to paint. Looks like they'll get options and stuff in the next edition though. No, I've got some Fatimid Egyptians I'll get to eventually, and with my Berbers I'll be able to morph the army into a couple of other dry armies. But I've also had my eye on a few earlier desert armies; Early Bedouins, Palmyra and the Meroitic Kushites. Now that I have a desert table, I might as well get a couple of armies that could use it, right?
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Oct 9, 2011 23:15
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So I need some advice about my MARPAT. Trying to paint it on isn't yielding the results I wanted. The pattern is turning out too big. It occurred to me that maybe stippling on the paint would work better. I would basecoat my mini with Deneb Stone then stipple on the other three colors with a piece of torn sponge or something. Anyone think this would be successful?
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Oct 10, 2011 04:30
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R.S. Gumby posted:Yeah, I thought of putting that together as a comedy army, as I probably has most of what I'd need for it in my bitz box. Plus it'd take like an hour to paint. Looks like they'll get options and stuff in the next edition though. True, and I've always been kind of tempted to paint some Berbers or Bedouins. Do you have any nice miniature ranges scouted out for them already? I really have no clue who makes good ones.
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Oct 10, 2011 05:24
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Bedouins I'm not too sure about. Few manufacturers have anything for them, and I think Essex might be the best bet. There's also Magister Militum (who I think is worse). For Berber there's much more to choose from. At least if you're ok with a more generic medieval arabic look, as most muslim armies of the era had quite a lot in common visually. Essex, for example, has pretty much just one range of medievals, used to make most of the various armies, like Berber, Mamluks, Granadines and so on. Even the Christian Nubians use the same range. They're not the only manufacturer with this approach. My impression is that heavy cavalry tend to have the most variation between armies, so it might be good to look into those a bit more carefully, at least if you're like me and rather unashamedly like to morph your armies as much as possible. Mirliton makes a gorgeous range. There's no camels, so you'd need to find them elsewhere. http://www.mirliton.it/index.php?cName=historical-15mm-muslim-1096-1350 Legio Heroica also makes gorgeous minis, including a kickass Saladin. Again, no camels. http://www.legio-heroica.com/Musulmani-en.html Those are the two I think are the best, but you could always check the manufacturers listed on this page: http://www.madaxeman.com/wiki2/tiki-index.php?page=Fanatic+Berber The only ones I have any experience of though is Essex, as that's what I have. They're ok, but can't compare with Mirliton and Legio. I got them before Legio or Mirliton had even released their ranges though. I am thinking of buying a few more units (to be able to field a Big Battle army) and if I do, I'll probably go for Mirliton. Essex have (decentish but monopose) camels though.
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Oct 10, 2011 07:31
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R.S. Gumby posted:That's how it usually starts. Fuckin DBA, man. That's how they get you. One army, just to paint. Maybe try a game or two. Then maybe an opposing army could be a good idea, it's not like they cost anything anyway. Just to have a pair if a friend wants to try. Let's just try an army based on some other troop type. Oh, must build camps for them. And it would be good to have terrain enough for all options. Build some. Might as well get a few more armies to reenact the Baltic crusades or something. Hmm, who are these Palmyrans? Sounds like an interesting era. Oooh, Phokians with double artillery sounds like fun. Get Osprey books for history and painting inspiration. Where's the rulebook? Left it in the bathroom again? Might as well get another one, just to be able to read armylists while sitting on the loo, thinking about what to buy next. Samurai and Chinese maybe. Need more Osprey. Oh God this hobby! Just while I'm waiting on the boxed set of crusaders to be delivered: 
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Oct 11, 2011 18:17
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Those drat Ospreys man, those drat Ospreys... (currently reading a 800 page book on Waterloo to understand what these tiny Napoleonic guys are all about)
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Oct 11, 2011 18:43
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If you're interested in the minutiae of how Napoleon organized his army I recommend Swords Around A Throne by John Elting. It's a tough read, but it's got a lot of information that would be of interest.
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Oct 11, 2011 19:04
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I just finished a book on the 1911, and am now reading one on the AK-47. I have just about every important book on the AWI though.
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Oct 11, 2011 19:05
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Scratch Monkey posted:If you're interested in the minutiae of how Napoleon organized his army I recommend Swords Around A Throne by John Elting. It's a tough read, but it's got a lot of information that would be of interest. Cool. I'm still on the "what the hell is the difference between a division and a batallion, and where does a regiment fit into that?" level of things, but I'm getting there. I'm normally a strictly pre-1600 kind of military history nut.
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Oct 11, 2011 19:09
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lilljonas posted:Those drat Ospreys man, those drat Ospreys... Aha! Napoleonics are ace and something I know a bit more about. This is me 50% through an impulse PM 28mm buy,I've 27 out of the 30 finished now.. 
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Oct 11, 2011 19:14
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Rebased my NZ Shermans for Conquest and assembled the rest of the army. Should have it all done on time.   
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Oct 12, 2011 10:35
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LintMan posted:Rebased my NZ Shermans for Conquest and assembled the rest of the army. Should have it all done on time. These look really good, love the bases and troops. Looks super cool how you have used no metallics on them and how you have done the tracks/fifty in various levels of grey.
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Oct 12, 2011 10:43
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Okay, so a friend and me are thinking about starting FoW. We're looking for recommendations for two starter armies. Late War with one list each for Axis and Allies, either infantry or armor (no mechanised). He's not willing to start a soviet list (too much stuff to buy and paint), but otherwise completely clueless what to take. I'm thinking about a bog-standard Grenadierkompanie, a StuG company or going crazy with the Regiment Bäke list. What would you recommend for two newbs?
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Oct 13, 2011 12:11
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What battle or operation interests you guys? Italy, D-day, Normandy breakout, Market Garden or Bulge? Pick a battle. Flames of War normally has a book which contains both an Axis and Allied list or lists for a given battle or campaign. Its a good starting point.
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Oct 13, 2011 12:22
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You could try starting out with 600pt lists as well, to get a good hang of the game and to see what appeals most to you list wise. I believe there is a section on this in the main rulebook. Edit: Also a soviet armour list need not be massive model count wise at all.
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Oct 13, 2011 15:43
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Get Fortress Europe. Its a good book for all-around lists and stuff and a lot of the late war books are patterned off of it. For Germans, Villers Bocage and Earth and Steel are good books, for Brits try Monty's Meatgrinder and Turning Tide, for Americans Turning Tide and D Minus 1 (for airborne). If you want a good single book for evenly matched allied and axis lists you could get Bloody Omaha, which is the small D-Day book focused just on Omaha beach. There are other D-Day books (the previously mentioned D Minus 1 and another called, suprise, D-Day) but Bloody Omaha is the one with varied lists for both sides (D-Day has a list in it IIRC, but is more scenario and terrain rules plus fluff).
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Oct 13, 2011 17:10
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My copy of Saga finally arrived, but the dice were out of stock. gently caress.  Oh well it looks great and I will try and get a game in this weekend. Also in the designers notes it says they are working on a Arthurian expansion. gently caress yes.
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Oct 13, 2011 21:30
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I wouldn't recommend: D-Day, Bloody Omaha, Viller bocage, Montys Mestgrinder, D-1 or Cobra. These are early production latewar books and have been updated in Turning Tide and Earth and Steel.
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Oct 13, 2011 23:07
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Some more Kiwis in Italy. List: HQ+2xPioneer Teams (Done) Rifle platoon with Sticky bombs (Done) Rifle platoon with Sticky bombs (1/2 painted) AT platoon (4x6pdrs) (Done) Armoured car platoon (3xStaghounds) (Done) Armoured platoon (3xShermans) (Done) Armoured platoon (3xShermans) (Done) SP AT platoon (4xM10s) (Done) US Artillery (4x105mm) (Done) So to complete the project for a tournament at the end of the month I just need to finish the 2nd Rifle platoon. Here is what I finished tonight: M10s (The M10s were not painted in a camo scheme, they were left mean in green)     6pdrs   CnC and Pioneer teams    Staghounds  Shermans    Still need to do a unit markings on the Shermans and the M10s but that shouldn't take long. LintMan fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Oct 15, 2011 |
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Oct 15, 2011 13:34
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Welp, that's it. Decided to start FoW with a Regiment Bäke company. I'd like to ask you guys for opinions about my two first provisional lists: No. 1: Command: Panther A -190 Dr. Franz Bäke -60 Combat Platoons: Panther Platoon with 3 Panther A -560 Schwere Panzer Platoon with 3 Tiger I E -645 Support Platoons: Rocket Battery with 3 NW41 rocket launchers -125 Panzerpionier Platoon with 2 squads and Goliath -170 (Or Gebirgsjäger Platoon with 3 squads and Panzerfaust -165) 1750 points, 4 platoons. Panthers&Bäke are the anti-tank element, the Tigers do the assaults, the Nebs are supporting fire/smoke and the Pios secure a flank against infantry threats with the Goliath as a threat-in-being. (Would a 3-squad platoon of Gebirgsjäger be better for that?) No. 2: Command: Panther A -190 Dr. Franz Bäke -60 Combat Platoons: Panther Platoon with 3 Panther A -560 Schwere Panzer Platoon with 2 Tiger I E -430 Support Platoons: Armored Rocket Launcher Battery with 3 Panzerwerfer 42 and extra crews -195 Panzerpionier Platoon with 3 squads and Panzerknacker SMG team -200 Panzerspäh Patrol with Sd Kfz 250 and 2 SdKfz 290/5 -115 1750 with 5 platoons. The artillery support and the Pios got beefed up a good deal and a recon patrol has to make up for the loss of one Tiger. Magni fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 16, 2011 |
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Oct 16, 2011 19:48
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LintMan posted:
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Oct 17, 2011 00:20
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Bake is a really hard army to play. His Panthers are good but the tigers are actually a weak point due to everything in latewar having a way of dealing with front armour 9. Added to weak tiger platoons all your supporting units are too small to be effective. So starting from the top: HQ Panthers +Bake upgrade, Bergepanther 190+60+15 = 265 3xPanthers 560 2xTigers 430 Your core combat force needs to attack together with the Tigers providing flank protection for the Panthers (they will get flanked). Use the independent team (Bake) to link the two platoons together for defensive fire if infantry get brave. Gerbsjaeger with Panzerfaust 165 You only get 7 teams worth of infantry in any single platoon. You don’t need pioneers with the Panthers. Panzer AA gun platoon with 3xQuad 2cms on armoured Halftracks 165 Nebs, 3xNW41s 125 Watch out with the Bergepanther, it’s not an independent team and its a transport team. It needs Bake to move around unless attached to a combat or weapons platoon. However if you give it to the Tank platoons bad things happen if you try to assault. I would give it to the AA platoon and use it for its extra MG dice.
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Oct 17, 2011 08:13
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Have many of you guys into Flames of war played Axis and Allies miniatures? I picked up the starter and a couple of the booster packs (random contents) on a whim and its great. Can get a game set up and done in an hour since most armies are 2-4 tanks and a handful of infantry. The problem is the booster packs are random and I don't know what is in them. So I have a set of units that heavily favors the Allies. Rather than buying 1000 booster packs and hoping I get lucky I understand that Flames of war Tank minis are the same scale as the AAM tanks, but I haven't found a clear answer on whether Infantry and things like Anti-tank guns are the same scale? It would bother me a lot if it looked like half of my units appeared to be hobbits or 20ft tall giants.
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Oct 18, 2011 06:14
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I started back in V1 came out from a GW background. When Axis and Allies miniatures were released we have a look at the figure quality and it just didn't compare. Also looking online some of the tanks aren't in scale with each other. Could just be the pictures on the website though. Also the gun teams are horrid. But if you have stuff or can get them cheaply its a good start while you learn the rules.
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Oct 18, 2011 12:15
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The quality is pretty much what you'd expect from soft-plastic prepaints, and the scale is random throughout the early sets. Apparently the later sets are true 15mil armour, but the infantry I have no clue about. Protip to win every game of AA Minis ever (based on five year old knowledge): take nothing but three point Russian riflemen and clog the objective. Because the game only lasts eight turns and you will have more than eight times the number of units that most of your opponants can field you tend to end up winning via sheer numbers.
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Oct 18, 2011 14:31
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So I finally got the Mirliton Crusades box at work yesterday all the way from Italy. Looks totally rad and I'm looking forward to having a proper set up and explore when I get the chance. Still found time to get one together and try a 15mm Knight Templar last night though as a way of a tester mini. Reckon I learn a lot of how to go about these, I'm quite happy with it and I think I'm sorted to have a proper good go on the rest.  
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Oct 18, 2011 18:32
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The crusader looks great, and I must say that there is something about those Mirliton miniatures that makes them really quick and smooth to paint. I think it is the nice mix of not having too many details which makes them quick to paint, but still not so few details or stupid poses that they become bland and boring.
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Oct 18, 2011 19:52
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Arquinsiel posted:Protip to win every game of AA Minis ever (based on five year old knowledge): take nothing but three point Russian riflemen and clog the objective. Because the game only lasts eight turns and you will have more than eight times the number of units that most of your opponants can field you tend to end up winning via sheer numbers. So it's exactly like the real war? 
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Oct 18, 2011 20:06
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^^^^ I'm pretty sure that was Vinnie's logic behind it, yes. big_g posted:So I finally got the Mirliton Crusades box at work yesterday all the way from Italy.
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Oct 18, 2011 20:12
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big_g posted:So I finally got the Mirliton Crusades box What, no laundry services in the holy land? That is a nice looking knight. Looks like he's straight from the battlefield, and the completed army should be pretty badass.
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Oct 19, 2011 01:07
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How about those Point of Contact 15mm minis? They seem to be what I wanted but they looked a little small, but I have no way of making sure short of buying a few and doing a side by side comparison.
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Oct 19, 2011 02:04
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